Search Results for: interval

Cycling in the Wind — Tips for Riding in the Breeze

January 13, 2016 by Wade Shaddy

“There’s always a headwind on a bike.” You’ve probably heard the saying many times, because it’s true. Cycling more than about 15 mph produces a steady breeze. Add a mild wind to that, and you’ve got a substantial barrier to smash through. Cycling in the wind though doesn’t have to be a fun-ride-break provided you know how to deal with it.

Cycling in the Wind – Cut in Half

Cycling in wind can cut your speed in half, requiring twice the effort for half the miles. You work twice as hard for the same output. Riding directly into a headwind, mile after mile can be a long, lonely ride, sapping spirit, killing moral and beating you to death. If not given the respect it deserves, it depletes the remaining reserve in your legs, heart and lungs. But don’t get discouraged. There are tactics you can employ to level the battlefield.

Dress Appropriately

There’s a reason why cyclists wear Lycra. The more formfitting your gear, the less forward momentum the wind saps from you which is why bike-specific clothing is a wiser choice than a windbreaker or everyday jacket. Department store gear isn’t designed for cycling. Large collars, open sleeves and a loose fit around your neck and waist all catches the wind. Any type of cycling specific jersey or jacket can be more aerodynamic by pulling zippers all the way up to your chin to prevent them from ballooning up like a parachute.

Gearing Matters

Ride in a lower gears than normal at a higher cadence. You probably can’t hold your favorite cruising gear for long in the wind. It will cost you some speed but you’ll be able to keep your stamina up longer. It’s fine to forfeit speed for endurance, it benefits you in the long run. Pushing bigger gears overworks your legs and causes you to run out of energy sooner.

Get Tucked

It’s a no-brainer, but if you duck down while cycling in the wind, and get in the drops, you’re less exposed to the wind. Aero bars can benefit you in this situation, but use them with care, they can be twitchy. But there’s more to it than just getting your torso out of the wind. Crouching and leaning forward compacts your body and you become an overall smaller target. With your hands on the drops you also have better control when a gust hits you from the side, or from any direction. You stand a better chance of keeping your bike straight and out of the ditch or traffic.

Don’t Fight It

Don’t try to maintain a set speed if it gets too much for you. Gusty wind changes speed. One minute it’s fast, you catch a break, and then it hits you again. Be flexible with the wind, and adjust your speed as necessary. You can’t beat it down like another rider.

Distract Yourself

Safety issues aside, listening to music blocks out fatigue-related symptoms such as burning lungs, the beating heart and lactic acid in the muscles. Studies have shown that listening to music while riding can reduce your perception of effort by as much as 10 per cent. You’ll be pedaling harder without even noticing. Use music with a beat that will match your cadence if possible.Use music as a distraction only when you can do so safely and only ever wear an earbud in one year so you can still hear traffic and other dangers.

Plan Your Route

Long distance cyclists take advantage of the wind when possible when the ride is planned in stages. You should know the weather patterns in your area by now. Plan on riding against the wind the first half of your ride then on the way back you’ll have a nice tail-wind to get you home feeling good. It sounds good in theory anyway, but if you’ve been out there before, you already know that the wind changes direction just when you need to rely on it. It’s almost a given. Just do your best and hope for the best.

Surface Heating

Calm morning rides can be some of the most memorable rides you can imagine. Surface heating in the morning is a condition that can aid you in your search for the perfect ride. Also evening twilight rides just before the sun sets can be calm. Of course this depends on where you live as some places like the beach, the higher winds can be at these times.

How it Works

When the sun heats a section of wide open spaces it creates surface heating. As the air rises, wind flows in to fill the void. That’s why the wind often starts to stir about mid-morning. It happens everywhere there’s flat ground. It almost always happens in the same direction, and you can plan your ride around it. Unfortunately, if there’s a weather front already in place, it might not work. Watch for local weather conditions the night before to help you get a grasp on wind direction and speed.

Terrain and Trees

Try to plan your ride when cycling in the wind. Look at roads with windbreaks such as hedges, or natural land formations that block the wind. Trees are always good for sheltering you from gusty winds. Buildings work, albeit briefly, depending on where you live, and the distance you plan on doing.

Training

Professionals know that cycling in the wind can be a definitive training tool. Don’t let it go to waste. Run a series of intervals, cranking out your best effort briefly facing into the wind. Allow the wind to keep your speed up as you cool down between efforts with it at your back, then flip it and do it again. Wind training can help you climb better. The resistance is very similar to riding hills or rollers. Use it to your advantage.

Positive Attitude

A positive attitude is the overall best approach for cycling in the wind, it tests your resolve. It tests your endurance, strength and spirit. If you can live with it, some cyclists, depending on their location, consider windy conditions as normal, and they go on to beat other cyclists in competitions where there is little wind. No matter where you live, wind is always going to be an issue for cyclists. Embrace it.

D0n’t Be Afraid to Lose

Wind isn’t your enemy. It has no animosity toward you as a cyclist. You don’t have to beat it at all. If cycling in the wind is too much for you or becomes dangerous in any way, don’t be afraid to call it quits. Put your feet up in your favorite chair and wait for another day. The blacktop isn’t going anywhere soon.

Getting to Grips with Indoor Cycling Training

January 11, 2016 by Lee Agur

When you are training for a big event, finding the time to fit in some quality riding can be frustrating, especially in the winter. Late sunrises, early sunsets, and terrible weather conditions all work to take away cycling opportunities (as well as motivation!), making the desire to train impossibly low. But there is a solution to the winter cycling blues – indoor cycling training! It may seem like a crazy concept, but many coaches actually implement indoor cycling routines into off-season cycling workouts (as well as during the season) as indoor cycling equipment can open up a new world of training when you just can’t get outside. Indoor cycling training equipment works to focus specific exercises, techniques and disciplines and they can help to accurately control workload too, so the benefits are virtually endless. Getting to grips with indoor cycling training doesn’t have to be complicated, so let’s take a look!

Rollers

Rollers are an age-old solution to cycling indoors, allowing your bike to ride continuously without actually moving forward. Rollers consist of three round cylinders that are mounted on bearings, and these are fixed onto a frame. A belt then connects one of the rear cylinders to the front cylinder, to allow the front wheel of the bike to spin at the same speed as the back wheel. You simply place your bike onto the rollers and ride.

Rollers are a great indoor cycling tool if you are looking to sharpen your bike-handling abilities because your bike is not actually affixed to the machine! This means that you must rely not just on perfect balance, but on skillful steering too. Some cyclists opt to add a fan or magnetic unit to rollers to create resistance, as there isn’t a lot of resistance generated by the rollers alone.

Types of Trainers

Wind (or turbo) style trainers typically have two fans with slotted blades. These slots work to churn the air, effectively mimicking the natural resistance that you experience when riding a traditional bike. Many cyclists feel that keeping indoor cycling training as close to the real thing is better for synchronicity and motivation, but almost as many cyclists are turning to magnetic trainers for the ability to adjust resistance.

Magnetic (or mag) trainers use powerful magnets and a non-conductive disk to produce resistance when you cycle indoors. Performance magnetic trainers typically have six resistance settings, from low to high, and are controlled by a handle bar-mounted lever that you can adjust. Many magnetic training units have incorporated small, precisely weighted flywheels in order to create a slight coasting sensation for cyclists who prefer a more realistic road feel.

The great thing about magnetic trainers is that the resistance generated when you ride increases in direct proportion to the speed in which you ride. This may be less realistic than riding a real bike, but strong resistance will both elevate your heart rate and exert your body, which will help to raise your overall endurance and fitness levels. When fitted with a flywheel, they can also help you to determine, and work through, the dead spots in your pedal stroke.

Fluid trainers are another option to increase the resistance on the rear wheel while cycling indoors. Fluid trainers use, exactly that, fluid, inside a drum that has fan blades that turn through it. The advantage with fluid is that it can offer a higher resistance and a smoother feel especially under high loads.

Using the Right Bike

As enormous pressures will be generated by each of these types of trainers, it is best to use an older bike to train indoors if possible. The bike you use is likely to rust, the headset will get grooved and many more problems can occur, so be sure to set up your bike in the same way as the one you ride for the best results.

Indoor Cycling Training Workouts

As with any form of exercise, always spend a few minutes warming up and cooling down when you use your indoor trainer. Before you get to grips with indoor training:

· Use a fan (or ride in the coolest part of your house) to avoid overheating

· Always fill your water bottle before you start your workout

· Don’t spend more than two hours at a time on your trainer

For general conditioning:

After you have warmed up, raise your riding cadence to 85 to 100 rpm. Work to maintain your heart rate at no more than 85 percent of your maximum.

For climbing strength:

Put your bike into a low gear or increase the resistance on your trainer (for mags only), to a level that will force you to drop your riding cadence to around 60 to 70rpm. Maintain this cadence for a few minutes before going back to your normal cycling rate. Repeat this throughout your training session.

For speed work:

To boost your anaerobic capacity, work on your trainer in intervals. You can work to structure interval programs, similar to those that you may use during an outdoor cycle exercise routine, to really increase your capacity for speed.

One of the most common excuses for not riding indoors is boredom. Yes, indoor cycling training can be boring but there are a few ways to better pass the time. One is simply to ride with other people so you have someone to talk to while you both get a good workout in. Whether riding with someone or on your own, incorporating intervals will break up the time and make it go faster. Entertainment wise, choose upbeat music to keep you motivated or an engaging podcast that keeps you entertained. Bike racing films or old races can also be fun to watch and added motivation. Keep it consistent and you’ll arrive outside in better shape than you thought was possible with a long, cold winter.

6 Tips to Improve your Bike Skills

January 8, 2016 by Lee Agur

Whether you are a novice or a pro, you might feel the need to improve upon your current bike skills and techniques. As with any form of exercise, how you do it determines how successful the endeavor will be. Luckily for cyclists everywhere, cycling is pretty straightforward and as a result, practically no skill is impossible to master! No matter what you are hoping to improve, from your pre-ride checklist to following the right interval routines, here are 6 tips to improve your bike skills today.

Bike Skills – Do the Pre-ride Checklist

One of the key factors to improving your bike skills is to get your pre-ride checklist in place. It may sound like an unnecessary factor when you want to improve the way that you ride, but if you consider the affect that overlooking a simple mechanical factor can have on your bike and body, you might think again! Simply forgetting to check a small detail on your bike, such as retightening the stem bolts, can lead to more than one complication after you set off, so it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Bike Skills – Improve Your Shifting

Learning how to shift properly will improve your bike skills by allowing you to maintain speed in the right gear. Anticipation really is the key. You might feel like you have a good grip on shifting correctly, but transitioning too soon can really affect your overall ride. Always attempt to change gears just before you need to. Try not to let your legs get bogged down by too big of a gear. Shift at the dead spot of your pedal stroke where your feet are at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions. The less pressure that you put on the pedals will allow your gears to shift quickly without any large “clunks”.

Bike Skills – Improve Your Comfort

Cycling isn’t just about getting on your bike and riding. For many of us, cycling is a way to get fit, let off steam, or even to compete. While doing it though you not only want to have a comfortable fit on the bike but should be comfortable riding on roads, trails, in traffic, through corners; basically in any situation on the bike. If you’re uncomfortable and tense, you’re not going to enjoy the ride as much as you otherwise would. The first thing to remember is to relax when you ride. Being tense will simply amplify all of the lumps and bumps of the ride along with your nervousness. You should practice and focus on riding more in the situations that make you uncomfortable. If you’re nervous on descents, practice your braking and cornering. If you’re not comfortable riding in traffic, make sure you’re doing the right things and being safe about it. Being comfortable on the bike will improve your enjoyment of riding.

Bike Skills – Intervals Made Easy

Many cyclists are using aerobic interval training when cycling, especially when trying to lose weight or to increase stamina. Cycling with intervals allows you to burn more calories in a shorter period of time and improves aerobic capability at a faster rate than any other form of cycling. To get to grips with intervals, try the following sets:

2 minutes hard, 2 minutes easy
1 minute hard, 1 minute easy
30 seconds hard, 30 seconds easy
15-second sprint, 5 minutes easy

These are perfect for beginners, and can be used in sets throughout a training session for more advanced riders, too. Just gradually add a set or two of each every week.

Bike Skills – Eat Properly

Food is a key element to the quality of your ride as having too little or too much to eat will affect your performance. Aim to eat around 90 minutes before you set out for a long ride to ensure that you digest the food before beginning and don’t run out of energy during the ride. Also, make sure you bring enough food for the ride to keep your energy levels up. It depends on how long you’re riding but rides over 30 minutes to an hour, you should be bringing something to snack on.

Bike Skills – Drink Responsibly

Always bring water or a sports drink with you when you ride no matter how long you plan to be out. When exercising, even in cold weather, your body is losing fluid. The more dehydrated you are, the hard your body is going to have to work to sustain the same pace. The trick is to drink before you’re thirsty as if you’re thirsty, it’s too late; you’re already playing catch-up.

You should also aim to drink in a responsible manner. Glance at your drinks bottle when you want a sip but don’t take your eyes off of the road to reach down for it. Always tilt the bottle to drink and if an obstacle appears while you have a bottle to hand, hold it between your teeth while you grab back on to the bars. This may sound dangerous but having two hands on your bike to ride a bump will be much safer for you than only holding on with one. And make sure you don’t let go of the bottle before it’s securely in the bottle cage otherwise it’ll be on the road before you know it.

These are a few quick and easy bike skills to practice and get good at as they will up the quality of your rides. What other bike skills do you practice to improve your riding? Let us know in the comments below.

Mountain Bike Suspension Service – Front Fork

January 8, 2016 by Wade Shaddy

Most road bikes these days rely on carbon forks to absorb vibration. They’re simple, and require little in the way of maintenance. Mountain bikes need more, relying on fully-loaded shock absorbers that are capable of taking big hits over and over again. Mountain bike suspension service has come a long way with the first shocks being made with rubber elastomers and springs. Contemporary front suspension typically relies on air and oil to cushion the ride.

Fork Anatomy

The typical front fork is comprised of two struts that connect the front wheel to the frame’s head tube. The exception is Cannodales “Lefty” that has only one strut. The distinction of “fork” is due to the steerer tube emerging from the top of the struts, giving it the appearance of a fork. The steerer tube joins onto the “crown.” The “stanchions,” are the shiny parts of the fork that travel inside the “sliders.” The sliders have the traditional dropouts that connect the assembly to the wheel axle.

Aftermarket Shocks

If you’re servicing or otherwise have questions about your fork, your bike’s manufacturer may not have the answers you’re looking for. Bicycle manufacturers don’t make their own suspension products. Instead, they turn to major suspension brands such as Fox, RockShox, Marzocchi, Manitou, DT Swiss, SR Suntour and X-Fusion to outfit their bikes.

About Brakes

If you’re thinking about the compatibility of a new fork, take into consideration that it may or may not work on your bike. Most modern mountain bikes now employ disc brakes. If you want to replace a fork that has rim brake mounts, your choices will be limited to some very basic suspension models unless you upgrade your wheels, brakes, and frame which must have the correct mounts for each type of brake.

Vertical Travel

Mountain bike frames are designed to work with a suspension fork featuring a specific amount of travel. Travel refers to the distance the fork will move before it’s fully compressed. Suspension travel equals the distance the wheel travels vertically. Before replacing any fork, consider that it could drastically change the way your bike handles.

Some Sizes

Older mountain bikes may have an 80-mm fork, which has went the way of the dodo bird. A 100-mm fork may be an acceptable replacement, but a 120mm fork will likely alter the bike geometry enough to make the bike harder to handle. Always check with your bike manufacturer for replacement fork recommendations.

Lockout Valve

Lockout is the ability to turn a shock off or make it inactive. The lockout is typically accomplished by turning a dial or moving a lever. Lockout is useful for riding on flat ground or going uphill when the constant compression and decompression of the shock wastes energy.

Damping Control

Damping is probably the single most important feature of a suspension fork. Damping controls the speed at which the fork moves up and down. Damping provides the rider with increased control, comfort and safety through rough terrain. Damping is usually accomplished by forcing oil or air through a small hole or port, but some very basic forks use only friction between the upper and lower tubes for dampening. Without damping, energy from impact would compress the shock immediately and then shoot the fork up again in the blink of an eye.

Damping Adjustments

Most forks rely on external knobs to adjust damping rate. Turning external knobs clockwise increases the amount of damping. Internal adjustments are also possible, but not as easy. Internal adjustments include changing oil viscosity for slower or less dampening. Most serious mountain bikers prefer to fine-tune damping to provide the best possible performance for their weight and riding style.

Mountain Bike Suspension Service – Fork Care

As far as bicycle components go, suspension forks are relatively complex things as there’s a lot going on in there. Basically, the more moving parts, the more maintenance required. Servicing suspension forks is vital to keep them operating smoothly.

Mountain Bike Suspension Service – Oil Changing

Changing the oil in your fork requires special tools and supplies that you probably don’t have in your garage. Seals can get damaged or fail to seat properly. Servicing a fork to this degree should probably be done in a bike shop unless you’re experienced.

Mountain Bike Suspension Service – Do It Yourself?

Full servicing can be carried out at home if you’re experienced, and have the tools. It involves removing the lower legs or sliders, cleaning and inspecting the seals, stanchions and bushings before topping off the oil and re-assembling the fork. Before attempting any work or opening the fork, make sure you release any pretension or air pressure.

Mountain Bike Suspension Service – How Often

Most manufacturers recommend changing the lubrication oil at least every 30-50 hours, and doing more extensive damper overhaul once a year. Other manufacturers recommend cleaning and changing the oil every 25 riding hours and a full service every 200 hours. Full-blown servicing is recommended at least once a year by most dealers, but it also depends on what type of fork, how you ride and where you ride. The three things that will affect the service interval and performance of your fork are water, mud and dust. How much you use your fork in those conditions will determine how much servicing it requires.

Mountain Bike Suspension Service – Simple Lube

Keeping the fork well-lubricated is the most important part of maintaining your fork and making sure there is uncontaminated lubrication inside the fork. Lube happens naturally when oil pools in the lower part of the fork where it lubricates the bushings and seals within the fork allowing it to move smoothly without friction.

Seals and Dirt

Seals must remain well-lubricated to repel dirt effectively, and for internal bushings to remain smooth and working properly. Many modern forks contain only 5 or 10-ml of oil for lubrication, but this is all it requires to keep the system running smooth.

How Oil Lubricates

To encourage oil to lubricate the upper bushings and seals in the fork, it’s recommended by some manufactures to simply turn your bike upside down and allow 20 minutes for the oil to run down into the seals. Remove the dirt and gunk from the fork stanchions and around the seals, especially between the stanchions and crown or arch at the front of the fork. Use a water hose if desired, but keep the pressure away from the seals.

Mountain Bike Suspension Service – The Take Away

The take away with mountain bike suspension service is to stay ahead of it and replace the oil and seals before they need completely replaced as if you wait, this can cause damage and the potential for needing a new front fork. Take note of how you’re riding and what conditions you’re in and if you can’t do the servicing on your own, take it to a local bike shop who knows there stuff. They’ll be able to do a complete overhaul and guide you in when next to bring it in.

The Metric Century – It’s All About The Base

January 7, 2016 by Wade Shaddy

Century riding is a rite of passage for cyclists. The completion of a century ensures your place among cyclists. But if you’re not ready for a full-blown century of 100 miles, there’s an option. The the 100 kilometer metric century, or 62 miles, is well respected among cyclists. It’s an achievement to be proud of.

Metric Century Mileage

You’ve seen versions of centuries advertised for charity, pledge or group rides. There are typically options for quarter centuries ( 50 miles) half centuries (50-miles), metric century (62 miles), and the standard century (100 miles). Technically speaking, a true metric century is just over 62-miles when converted from kilometers to miles, but the majority of cyclists refer to metric centuries between 60 and 65-miles.

Metric Centruy History

The metric century is of European descent, where they’ve been actively participating in cycling long before it became trendy in the United States. As long-distance riding became popular in the United States, the metric was boosted to 100 miles, and became known as the Imperial century. Cyclists outside the United States still refer to it as an Imperial century.

Perfect Distance

Sixty miles — 100-kilometers — is just about the perfect distance for your first long-distance cycling challenge. You can claim to have accomplished a metric century with almost as much gusto as a 100-mile century. It gives you the confidence to add the extra 40 miles at a later date, leading up to a full-blown “Imperial” century.

Stay Active

With the colder months there’s no excuse for not preparing for a metric century and depending on where you live, you could easily be ready for a metric centruy in April, weather permitting. Get started now by building your base, watching what you eat, and staying active in cycling.

Endurance is the Objective

Going fast isn’t the objective for your first metric century; endurance is the key. Building endurance allows you to get more out of riding in general. Cyclists who go straight into speed and interval training get fast on the bike but may fail when it comes to distance riding without an adequate base.

Time Table

If you participate regularly in other aerobic activities, it’s possible to ready yourself for a metric century in less than few months. Start with the metric, and by that time, you’ll know if you’re heading in the right direction if you wish to tackle the full century.

It’s All About The Base

Base training is the foundation upon which you build for a metric century. It should be the single most important part of your training. Many cyclist never reach their full potential because they neglect this critical phase. Building your base is about preparing your body for the effort you will be placing on it when tackling your first metric. A foundation of steady miles allow you to make harder efforts later in the year.

Fitting enough riding in can be a challenge but shorter rides at a steady pace not only help to build your base, but allow you to burn more fat. Short, consistent riding helps to build capillaries that deliver oxygen-rich blood to your muscles. The result is a base that allows you to ride longer. After a few months of riding consistently, you’ll be able to maintain an average speed and heart rate that was unthinkable earlier in the year.

Daily Motivation

Daily riding is a good place to start, but it’s not always possible to squeeze out a ride after work. Start by reminding yourself that you plan on riding as soon as you get home. Fight the urge to sit down after work, you’ll never get back up. Take off work clothes as soon as you get home. Put on your cycling gear and knock off at least 5 to ten miles, 5 or 6 days a week, with at least one 20 miler or more on the weekend, if not two 20-milers. As you get closer to the metric launch date, bring it up to 30 or 40 miles at least once a weekend. Plan on skipping at least one day a week, but no more than two. Monday is a good day to skip to recover from the longer rides of the weekend.

The Stationary Option

Stationary bikes are an option for base training in cold, snowy, or wet weather, but stationary bikes can be boring. It’s always better to ride outside when possible. Outdoor riding gives you skills and builds a fitness base you just can’t get on a stationary bike.

Break it Up

During your continuous, everyday rides, break-up easy pedaling with short intervals of harder effort to get your heart rate up. Do it as many times as you are comfortable with, but don’t overdo it. It’s the accumulative hours of steady riding that enhance and build your base, not interval training.

Heart Rate

Building an endurance base of steady mileage on the road accomplishes physiological changes in your body. There’s no need to push your heart to its limits. If your heart rate is 65-80% of your maximum, the hardest your heart can beat, for at least 20 minutes, you’re doing fine. The lower intensity pace that you ride at doing base training allows you to train longer.

Duration Timetable

There’s no magic number for how long a base-building period should last for a metric century. Continue on for four to six weeks, or until you feel you’ve hit a plateau. A good ballpark figure is between 6 and 12 weeks. Start increasing your rides by about ten percent each week until you can do two 30-mile rides on two consecutive days before deciding on a launch date for your first metric.

Drafting in Cycling – Part of Your Training?

January 2, 2016 by Adam Farabaugh

Drafting in cycling is one of the many benefits to riding in a group. You can go faster than you would otherwise on your own with much less effort. You get the rush from the speed as well as the motivation from all the other riders around you. Some riders do nothing but group rides where they consistently get a draft while other riders ride on their own or with one or two others all the time. In terms of what’s more fun; that’s your personal preference. But what will make you a better and faster cyclist? A combination of the two with a healthy dose of group rides where drafting is aplenty.

Drafting in Cycling – What it does Physiologically

You may think that all sitting on a wheel does for you is to allow you to pedal easier. While this is true under certain circumstances, such as sitting on a wheel for an endurance or easy ride, you can also ride much harder while drafting when the group is going full-tilt. You will have more periods of time where you are soft pedaling or coasting but that will then be followed with pedaling harder than you otherwise would. If you have a power meter, your power profile will look like your heart beat profile; spiky up followed by spiky down. If you have been riding on your own a lot and then hit up a local group ride or race, you will be able to tell that your legs aren’t used to the high/low effort. In addition to the spiky profile, you will also most likely be spinning at a higher cadence.

The more you ride in a group the more your muscles are going to get used to this type of riding. In addition to getting used to it, you are also going to generate more speed in your legs. You legs will simply be used to pedaling faster. When riding on your own, this translates to faster speeds. Your muscles adapt to the load that they’re placed under. If you ride at a steady effort all day, then your legs will get really good at that but when you try and go harder, your legs aren’t used to the effort and can’t do it again and again. Building the muscle fibers to be able to handle the up and down efforts will help your cycling all around.

Drafting in Cycling – What it does Psychologically

Drafting in cycling on group rides or in races also plays tricks on your mind. Have you ever gone out and ridden on your own, perhaps to a group ride, and felt like you couldn’t push yourself? And then when you get on a group ride, you feel like superman or superwoman? This is because 90% of riding is mental. Your brain tells your body what to do and your brain tells you how your legs feel. The other people in the group along with the speed and rush, gives your brain an added jolt of adrenaline and epinephrine which gives you an extra edge along with feeling good mentally. This psychological switch when you’re riding in a group is very difficult to simulate on your own. Up-beat music can get you part way but riding with others will always bring out your best performance.

Drafting in Cycling – How often Should you Include it in your Training?

Because drafting in cycling has such a large psychological and psychological affect on your body, it is recommended that you incorporate it into your riding at least once a week and up to three times a week if you are really looking to excel in group rides and races. If you are training more seriously and doing intervals, they have an important place, but in-conjunction with group rides. You are going to push yourself harder and go deeper than you ever would be able to on your own during intervals regardless of how mentally tough you are. Simply when you start to get tired your body no longer wants to push as hard as it’s capable of but on a group ride you will make yourself go cross-eyed even when you’re past being kaput.

While riding on your own can improve metal toughness and the ability to push through on your own, riding in a group brings out what you never knew was there. Riding around other people in such close proximity at high, adrenaline inducing speeds, allows you to push harder than you ever thought possible. Taking advantage of training on your own while in conjunction with group rides at the right times, even if your particular event is done solo, can bring additional benefits to your training.

Why I am a Faster Cyclist Than You

January 1, 2016 by Wade Shaddy

You just got passed, again, by the same faster cyclist. It’s growing old. And even though you train, it keeps happening. You corner the guy at the local watering hole, and ask him.

What’s the Deal?

“Why are you a faster cyclist than I am?” You say to him. “I train all the time, and you blow past me like I’m a kid on a Huffy.” He just smiles, not condescending at all. I realize he’s really a cool dude.

“Why am I a faster cyclist than you? He says back to me. “Maybe my bike is faster. Maybe I ride harder or more often. Maybe I’m genetically faster than you are. Maybe it’s because of my mother.” He adds.

Always Someone Faster

It’s the oldest question in the book for cyclists. Most, if not all cyclists battle with it occasionally. But remember that there will always be a faster cyclist than you. It’s a throw-back to a simpler time, when the fastest gun in the West was always brought down by someone faster. Maybe you’re not the fastest cyclist out there, but remember, the slower you are now, the faster you get faster.

The Gene Pool

Don’t beat yourself up when someone passes you, or continually passes you. The reason why you’re slower than any given cyclists is not always your fault. Simple genetics are probably the biggest reason. You may have not been born with a circulatory system that can process oxygen at the same rate as that cyclist that constantly passes you.

Training and DNA

Take a close look at professional cyclists. Their muscles will tell you one way they achieved their elite status. Endless hours of training and commitment to cycling played a big role in building the body that got them to the podium. Take an even closer look scientifically and you’ll see something embedded in the genetic DNA of these cyclists that’s just as important as their years of training.

Be Your Best

So how do you determine if you have genetics for cycling faster? By pushing yourself. Live clean, train hard and smart. Be your best. Don’t expect it to be obvious right away. Give it a couple of years at least. If you truly have superior genetics, it will be obvious at some point. If not, you’re in great shape, get to have a blast riding your bike and performing at the best of your abilities.

Not Limited to Genetics

You might ask the question that’s hounded professional and amateur cyclists alike; “Even though I’m not gifted with superior genetics, can I train to get faster?” The answer is YES. Most cyclists, particularly at the amateur level, never reach their genetic potential. Even some of the gifted cyclists fall short for various reasons, and less gifted athletes who trained and stuck it out end up getting faster.

The Mom Connection

If your father was a genetically gifted cyclists, don’t assume that you will be. Mitochondria are your cell’s power producers. They also affect your growth, development, overall health and performance on the bike. The thing is, mitochondria are inherited only in the maternal ova and not in sperm. This means that a large percentage of your cycling performance is directly related to your mother, not your father.

The Muscle Angle

The human body produces two types of muscle fibers: slow-twitch and fast-twitch. Fast-twitch fibers contract faster with more force than slow-twitch but they also fatigue more quickly. Endurance athletes have a greater proportion of slow-twitch fibers. Sprinters or faster cyclists have more fast-twitch. This is another example of why you get passed on the bike. It depends on the quantity or type of muscles you have. And no matter how hard you train, muscles cannot be converted from one type to another.

Natural Oxygen Uptake

Another reason why you are not as fast as that other guy has everything to do with oxygen. Cycling language typically refers to it as VO2 max, or the maximum volume of oxygen that can be inhaled and absorbed and processed by your body. Vo2 max can be measured on a bell curve. So in a given population, some cyclists will have have dramatically better VO2 scores than others.

How to Boost VO2

Measuring your oxygen capacity, or VO2 max, requires being hooked up to a gas analyser, which can be expensive and time-consuming. But professional cyclists agree that you can improve your Vo2 max through simple interval training.

Beat the Faster Cyclist

With all that being said, it’s impossible to recreate your gene pool without genetic manipulation. And yes, it’s happening. But there are proven ways to get faster on your bike without risking a science experiment gone bad.

Interval Training

Intervals are your best shot at getting faster. Interval training is in direct proportion to speed because you’re constantly challenging it. Interval training is all over the place, with different ranges, times and outcomes. Keep it simple enough so that you can stick with it.

Simple Drill

Warm up for 15-minutes at a steady pace, then ride for another 15 minutes at a slightly harder pace, but not so hard that you can’t carry on a conversation. Next, do five intervals of three to five minutes as hard as you can go while keeping in mind that you have more of them after. Take a recovery period of three to five minutes and finish with a 10-minute cool-down. Once you’ve gotten used to the intervals, continue your improvement by increasing the number of intervals, increase the length, and or reduce the time you spend in recovery between them.

Tips to Get Faster

There are no real shortcuts to becoming faster, you just have to ride. Don’t assume that you’ll get faster overnight. Expect two good seasons in the saddle, look back and you’ll realize you’re faster.

Coasting wastes time. If you can’t get out of the habit, try riding a fixed gear bike for a while. You will stop coasting immediately.

Cadence should feel natural. Don’t speed up and slow down. Keep it steady. This includes using your shifters constantly if you need to. Try to find a comfortable gear, if it’s not working, shift to another. Constant clicking is a sign of faster riders.

Some cyclists consider random bursts of effort to be heroic acts of bravery. But they’re unproductive. It’s is much more efficient to calculate the timing of your efforts with calculated precision.

Join a club or group ride. Let the faster riders push you to go faster. Nothing is more motivating.

Get more comfortable on your bike. Feeling safe and comfortable is a real barrier to speed. Master the basic skills, get comfortable and you’ll pick up speed.

Think about your position, aerodynamics is extremely important. You want a flat back with a long and low reach to the handlebars. Try to avoid a hunched or arched back. Keep your shoulders tucked in and make sure your head is in line with your back.

Nothing will make you faster than the right bike. Spend as much as you can afford. Get a professional to help you get the fit right and if that’s a bit too much for you right now consult this article to get your position as good as you can on your own. just get out there.

How to Get Better at Climbing

December 28, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

Becoming better at climbing is one of the more frustrating cycling skills to get good at. You may be the fastest off the line, out-sprinting everyone on flat ground, but when you hit the hills, you lose your hard-earned position. Climbing is routine in cycling, and there’s always room for improvement.

Better at Climbing – Don’t Be Intimidated

Getting better at climbing shouldn’t be intimidating. Almost anyone can do it with the right mindset, body position, gearing, cadence and pacing, and a bit of muscle at the right time. Never get intimidated. If you do, the hill will surely win before you even had a chance at getting over it intact. Confidence in cycling, not only hills, will take you further than you think giving you the will and drive to push through as you know you can do it.

Let the Hill Come to You

Never attack a hill. The hill will win. Even experienced riders are guilty of this common mistake. Don’t start climbing until you need to. Ride into the hill casually. Ignore the hill until it deserves your respect and then begin to climb by adjusting your gearing and attitude.

It’s Not a Competition

Climb in your own personal comfort zone. Ride at your own pace. Listen to what your body is trying to tell you. Know your limits, especially when you’re with other cyclists. If you become anaerobic, you won’t recover. Let faster riders pass you. If you’re nearing your red line slow down, breathe deep and continue at a speed within your ability. You’ll be sure that you will get better at climbing and will reach the top without having to take a breather with this approach.

Maintain Momentum

Maintain your momentum as long as possible. Momentum can be the difference between an easy climb and a gut-wrenching, heart pounding, vomiting one. Maintain a constant cadence in the right gear when you hit the hill. As the hill requires more effort and momentum drops, shift up as needed to easier gears, keeping it steady as long as you can. You will learn to recognize the point on a climb when forward momentum is gone. You’re in your smallest ring and the climb turns into a pedal mashing test of willpower. Prevent it from happening for as long as possible to get better at climbing.

Stay in the Saddle

It might seem like you develop more power standing by using your upper body weight. You do but it comes at a cost. It requires 10 to 12 percent more energy when your butt isn’t in the saddle. It means more work for your core and back muscles as you pull up on the unweighted pedal. The net effect is more energy used and you go into oxygen debt much quicker. It’s less efficient to climb standing versus seated. However, it is good to get out of the saddle to stretch it out a bit and to incorporate different muscles. Save it for the steeper parts. It can be good to stand though on steeper parts and if you’re a lighter climber and practice it. This article gets into the science of sitting versus standing.

The Advantage of Staying Seated

Sitting back in the saddle activates your glutes allowing the large muscles at the back of your thighs more efficient leverage to push the pedals. Standing up on the pedals might seem more powerful but wears you out quicker. Standing up increases your oxygen uptake at an alarming level, and you run the risk of blowing up or hitting the wall sooner.

Experienced Climbers

Experienced riders are likely to disagree with the advice to remain seated while climbing. It’s somewhat of a standard practice among advanced riders. It’s because they’ve developed the ability to climb efficiently while standing. It’s what separates the advanced rider from the novice. If you stick with it long enough, you may learn to climb standing up but when you’re just starting out, it’s better to stay in the saddle and learn to climb more efficiently until you’re better at climbing.

Rest Periods

On long, curvy climbs, it’s OK to take a break from sitting too. Look for a flatter portion where the road curves briefly and stand up to get the blood flowing and to employ different muscle groups. Take a few deep breaths and hit it again. Note that if you are going to stand, it’s fine to let the bike rock under you, but no more than about 6 inches side to side.

Gearing Tips

Is there a right gear for climbing? The short answer is no. With experience you’ll discover what gears work best for you, and you’ll be able to discern which one to drop into for the hill you are up against. A general rule of thumb is; if your bike resists shifting, it means that there’s too much tension on the chain, you’ve already waited too long to shift up.

Breathing Tips

If you start to gasp, pant or breathe irregularly, take a deep breath and hold it for a few pedal strokes. Synchronize your breathing with pedal strokes if possible. Start by taking a breath each time one pedal reaches the bottom of a stroke, and then increase the time by taking a breath every 1 1/2-strokes, and finally every two strokes if possible. Whatever the intervals between breaths, you will deliver more oxygen to your system with a consciously controlled breathing effort.

Summit in Sight

It’s OK to stand up at the last minute if you’re within striking distance of the summit and you’ve got some fuel left in your tank for a burst of power. Shift into a higher gear, stand up and use your body weight, mashing the pedals to propel yourself over the summit. You know your time to rest is coming soon so you can dig deep over the top. If you still have a long day however, don’t go to deep or you’ll be feeling it later.

Watch Your Weight

It’s been drilled into cyclists for years that to get better at climbing you and your bike must be light. Mind the overall weight though your own, the weight of the bike, and what you’re carrying on the bike. It costs money to reduce the weight of your bike by a pound, but an extra water bottle or weight in your fanny pack can add up, and that really adds up on a long ride with lots of hills.

Shout and Scream

All cyclists get defeated by hills at some point and none of them are created equal. Climbing hills is hard work. Sometimes it’s just too long or too steep. Sometimes you drop into the wrong gear and can’t keep up the momentum. Don’t be afraid to drop into your easiest gear and just keep mashing. Mental distractions are important. Don’t dwell on your pain. Think of anything that distracts you from the pain. Leave your mind elsewhere for a bit while the climb slogs on. Shout and scream out at the top of your lungs “I own this hill!” if you have to. And when you reach the summit, give yourself a pat on the back for a job well done. You’re on the right path to getting better at climbing.

Bar Tape Basics – That’s a Wrap

December 19, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

It’s cold outside, and your bike is just waiting for some attention. Changing your bar tape can be the perfect way to spend a cold afternoon with your bike. Bring it in the house, settle in with a warm cup of hot chocolate and get busy. Your bike will thank you with a comfortable, new appearance.

Bar Tape – Cosmetic Designs

The harlequin, or double-diamond are just a few of the cosmetic, yet functional designs to consider. But bar tape is about more than looks. It takes into account how your hands fit and feel on the handlebars. Good planning and design adds the longevity needed for long days and many miles in the saddle, while offering cushion in the drops and a slip-proof grip.

Bar Tape Life

Bar tape can last for years, and it typically comes already installed on a new bike. It might seem easy enough; wrapping tape around bars. But it’s not that simple. Not all cyclists know how to wrap a bar and make it last. In fact, it’s one of the most common things done wrong on bicycles.

How Often Should you put on New Bar Tape

Cyclists know that certain items, tires, chains and gears should be replaced at regular intervals, but how often should you replace your bar tape? If you measure it in years, professionals consider it way too long, some cyclists consider it gross. Bar tape is similar to running shoes and socks, most get changed way more often than once a year.

Nasty Stuff

The sweat, water, dirt, gunk and nasty stuff on your hands is on your bars. So once a year is considered a bare minimum if you’re an active rider. Of course, it also depends on how many bikes you own and how much you ride each of them. If you ride one bike all the time and pile up the miles, it probably deserves fresh bar tape every few months.

Choose Your Bar Tape

Inferior tape can be hard, slippery when wet and doesn’t last very long. Good tape is durable, comfortable, and makes gripping the bars for miles on end a little nicer. Good quality tape also tends to have some stretch, making it easy to achieve a nice, tight wrap; a wrap that that doesn’t move when you’re shifting your hands around on the bars.

Thick or Thin Bar Tape

There’s also a wide variation in feel between various types of tape. Padding and thickness varies, the depth of which depends on what you expect from a grip, and what type of riding you do. Choose thicker tape for rough riding conditions, thinner tape for a more streamlined approach.

Types of Bar Tape

Bar tape is prone to wear and tear, and most bar tape is relatively inexpensive. There are plenty of options to explore too, and new tape will always rejuvenate a tired-looking bike. It’s worth experiencing the subtle differences in comfort, feel and performance offered by different brands and materials.

Cotton Bar Tape

Cotton is old-school. Any bike built before about 1985 probably has cotton bar tape. Cotton tape is very cheap but it’s not widely available, and your best bet may be to go shopping online for it. Cotton tape comes in a roll with an adhesive backing that is easy to apply to a clean set of bars. Cycling purists like to give cotton tape several coats of shellac to protect the material and prevent it from unwrapping. That’s why some older bikes seem to have shiny handlebars.

Cork/Synthetic Bar Tape

By 1987, cork tape had for the most part replaced cotton as the tape of choice. Contemporary cork tape is actually a synthetic blend of cork and ethylene vinyl acetate. Cork/synthetic tape is more expensive than cotton, but typically also comes with a with a small strip of adhesive backing. Cork/synthetic tape needs to be stretched carefully when wrapping the bars, otherwise it looks untidy and is prone to unravelling. Take care with cork blends, stretch them too tight and they will break. Cork tape is typically too thick for designs such as the harlequin or other pattern making. The main advantage of cork is that it absorbs shock and sweat like nothing else.

High-Tech Bar Tape

Most contemporary bar tapes are made from a lightweight and durable synthetics, in combination with a foam or gel core for cushioning. Materials such as polyurethane, synthetic nylon or silicone are strong, lightweight and durable and often have a tacky texture that aids grip and contributes to a positive feel to your hands. Some have a perforated surface, others a ‘microfiber’ smooth feel, while others have a textured surface. Some look like faux leather or faux carbon. These newer formulas add good vibration dampening, without the bulkiness that can come from old-school tapes like cork.

Leather Bar Tape

If you’ve ever heard of the Brooks saddle you won’t be surprised that leather bar tape is at the top of the heap. Leather tape just feels good in your hands. Expect to pay around $100 for leather handlebar tape. You can also expect it to last forever. Some cyclists claim that it improves with age, just like a Brooks saddle. If you’re into changing the tape every year as suggested, leather probably isn’t the best choice. The downside to leather is that it doesn’t provide a vibration dampening effect like cork or gel.

Off With The Old

Do whatever it takes to remove the old bar tape. It might just unravel when you remove the plugs, or you can use tweezers or pliers to grip it an pull it off delicately.

Clean The Bars

Clean the bars thoroughly. Use a bike specific cleaner or anything that will remove tacky substances. Make sure it’s dry and without any residue to ensure a good bond with your handlebars.

Position the Hoods

If you’re replace existing tape, the hoods should already be in the right position, but this is your chance to move them if you desire. Make the adjustments, and tighten the hoods to the handlebars. It’s typically done with a 5mm hex wrench. The bolt is usually on the outside of the lever under the hood. Its a good idea to ride the bike before applying the tape, to ensure the hoods are where you want them, because after wrapping the bars, they’re difficult to move without disturbing the tape.

Secure Cables

Use black electrical tape to secure the brake cables to the bars if applicable. Some bars have holes in them for this purpose, and you can skip the electrical tape while others bikes require the use of black tape. It typically takes 3 or 4 strips of electrical tape to secure the brake line to drop bars.

Wrap It

The jury is still out on the direction, and whether to wind clockwise or counterclockwise is up to you. Some prefer to start in the center, on either side of the handlebars. Some prefer to anchor the tape with the plugs, and work toward the handlebars. Because the procedure varies wildly due to your choice of designs, the procedure can vary wildly. In general the most used way is to start at the end of the bars leaving about a half-inch overhanging the end of the bars. This is so you stuff it inside the bars when you insert the bar-end plug to secure it. Then start wrapping the bar tape leaving about 1/4 of an inch to a half overlapping the previous. Make sure you keep it snug as you go. When you get to the hoods there are a few ways to do it but in general, you want to make sure that no metal on the bars is showing. Then continue toward the stem stopping two to three inches from the stem. Cut the tape so it forms a straight edge and wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the end to secure it. Then the nice tape that generally comes with new bar tape can be wrapped over the electrical tape giving it a sleek look.

That a wrap. New bar tape will not only make your bike look better but will also give you added comfort to your riding. Make sure you pick a good bar tape color!

Lactate Threshold and VO2 Max – Increasing Race Pace

December 10, 2015 by Dyani Herrera

Typically, athletes try to find external factors to manipulate performance and neglect to consider what is occurring at a physiological level.

There are two main topics that are crucial for endurance athletes such as cyclists: lactate threshold and aerobic capacity. Lactate threshold (LT) occurs when lactate acid accumulates at a faster rate than the body is able to flush out during intense exercise. During endurance activities, once glycogen stores are depleted the body must rely on other energy systems for conversions of glucose to fuel the activity, and this process releases lactic acid as a by-product. Lactic acid acts as a hindrance during activity because once levels become too high, muscles quickly fatigue.

Aerobic capacity also known as VO2 Max can be described as the body’s ability to consume oxygen during intense exercise, in other words respiratory endurance. Research in endurance athletes has demonstrated that high lactate threshold directly correlates with increased aerobic performance. An athlete that possesses a high lactate threshold will have a faster race pace. There are several factors, which can improve lactate threshold as well as VO2 max.

Congenital Factors

There are role players that are not within our control such as gender, age, and genetics. It has been shown that VO2 max capability has a relationship with genetics. Hence, an athlete typically has a predetermined range of VO2 max capability they can achieve through training and despite efforts cannot increase the value. However, an athlete can increase the percentage of VO2 max at which they could perform, but that will be discussed further on. Elite males have a higher VO2 max capability when compared to elite female endurance athletes, but surprisingly it is only by a 10% marginal difference. Increasing age has shown to play a factor in reaching higher levels of VO2 max capability, but can be negated with consistent training.

External/Acquired Factors

It is encouraging to know that with certain manipulations to our training we can improve our Lactate Threshold and VO2 Max values. The purpose of increasing lactate threshold is to be able to perform at a higher level, with less lactic acid buildup, thus less fatigue, which directly increases our aerobic capacity/VO2 max. For instance, prior to training interventions a cyclist was able to perform at 40% of their VO2 max, but after 2 months of training was able to increase to 50% of their VO2 max; therefore, performing the same amount of work with less effort. Consistent training allows the body to adapt and consequently more work is required to reach our Lactate Threshold.

Increases in VO2 max and Lactate Threshold are seen quicker in athletes who were former sedentary individuals instead of those who were active prior to picking up cycling. Additionally, it has been shown that the highest VO2 max an athlete is capable of is acquired after 8-18 months of consistent endurance training, but percentages within that capability can be continuously improved. During these months the respiratory system adapts and improves, lactate threshold levels increase, and efficiency of energy systems is improved.

However, studies in endurance athletes such as cyclists, runners, and swimmers has demonstrated that very specific training must be completed to acquire these gains. Increases to VO2 Max and Lactate Threshold levels are best achieved through interval training or tempo sessions. In which the body is performing at sub-maximal levels for shorter periods of time. Interval training should include longer work intervals and very short rest intervals so the body is forced to continue working hard even when it has not fully recuperated from the previous bout of exercise. The former type of training forces an athlete to rely more heavily on their respiratory system and not depend as much on their glycolytic system. The glycolytic system converts glucose into energy to fuel our activity, but this process releases lactic acid thus, reaching our Lactate Threshold levels quicker than we’d like.

Furthermore, strength training has also shown its benefits in endurance athletes. By completing a strength training regimen we can create muscle hypertrophy. Increasing the size of our muscles causes increased cross sectionals of our slow-twitch muscle fibers, mitochondria, and muscle recruitment. By having increased muscle recruitment in essence we have more “helpers” completing the same amount of work with less fatigue. Consequently, this increases our race pace and the amount of time we can sustain it. Additionally, it trains our neurological system to cause this increase in muscle recruitment and to become more efficient with our reliance on energy systems. Lastly, it has also been shown that in order for aerobic system improvements to be made, a total of 5,000-6,000 calories a week must be burned during training. These values can differ depending on the background of the cyclist whether they were athletes prior to cycling or sedentary.

Off-Season Adjustments

It is important to note, that highly conditioned athletes cannot completely take a hiatus from cycling during the off-season. Of all the physiological gains earned such as strength, power, muscular endurance, and cardiovascular endurance, the latter is the easiest and fastest to lose. Therefore, if training completely ceases it will become more difficult to recover those gains in VO2 max and Lactate Threshold when the season commences. In order for a cyclist to maintain their VO2 max gains, it is recommended they complete 3 training sessions a week at 70% of their VO2 max. Also, these training sessions must be sport specific in order to maintain these levels. As an added benefit, cross training can be completed in addition to those 3 sessions during the off season.

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