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How To Remove Bike Grease From Your Clothes

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It may be one of life’s mysteries, but no matter how careful you are, bike grease somehow seems to make it onto your clothes. Whether it’s your prized lycra or commuting attire, finding that little dark smudge can be a bummer. The truth is, it’s tough to remove bike grease from clothes, but luckily it’s not impossible!

Changing a flat or performing mid-ride drivetrain surgery can leave your hands a grimy mess. If you don’t have anything with you to take care of it, that grease is going to end up all over your bar tape or grips, and most likely make it onto your clothes. It also feels nasty on your hands. To avoid this, and in turn save your clothes, be sure to head out on every ride or commute prepared for the worst.

Step 1: Degreaser Wipes

You may not think of bringing degreaser wipes with you on every ride, but they definitely come in handy! They are an easy way to quickly clean grease off your bike and hands if you’ve had to do any roadside fixes, but they can also be the first stage of attack on grease spots on your clothes. Simply give the grease spot a quick wipe, as the longer it sits on the material the harder it will be to get out. You can then tackle it full force once you get home. You can get single serve packs that you can easily fit in your saddlebag, or use a ziplock bag to bring a couple from a larger container.

Step 2: Wash the Spot(s)

Option 1 – Use Dishwashing Liquid

Remove Bike Grease From Clothes

Once you get home, you can further remove bike grease from clothes with dishwashing liquid. This works best on recent stains on synthetic fabrics and cotton. Dish soap is great at fighting grease and breaking down oil, so it’s naturally up for the task. Put a small amount directly on the spot and rub it into the fabric with your fingers or an old toothbrush. For tougher stains, combine dish soap and a little of baking soda and stir it into a paste, then apply.

Once you’ve let this sit for a minute or two, rinse the area with cold water. Place the fabric under the tap, with the stain side down so the water is running through to the front of the stain. Hang it to dry, keeping an eye on the stain. If it’s gone, then you can wash and dry the garment as usual. If it reappears, repeat the process above. Make sure you never tumble dry an item of clothing with bike grease on it, as it well set the stain and make it almost impossible to remove.

Option 2 – Use Baking Soda

If you happen to ride your bike in your finest silk, wool, or another delicate cloth, then you’ll want to give these item a little extra love when the grease hits it. Cover the stain with dry baking soda and leave overnight. The powder should absorb the grease, making it easy to brush off in the morning. Wash as usual and hang to dry to ensure the stain does not reappear.

How To Lubricate Your Mountain Bike (A Step By Step Guide)

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Mountain biking is an exciting and challenging outdoor activity that combines fitness, adventure, and nature in one. It’s a sport that requires a high level of skill, endurance, and physical strength, and is enjoyed by millions of people around the world. Whether you’re riding through challenging terrain, crossing streams, or soaring down steep descents, mountain biking is a sport that offers a unique and exciting experience.

However, with all the demands of the sport, it’s essential to maintain your mountain bike properly to ensure it lasts a long time and performs at its best. One of the most critical aspects of mountain bike maintenance is lubrication. By keeping your bike well-lubricated, you can reduce friction, prevent wear and tear, and ensure that all the components work properly.

Today we’re going to guide you through the steps on how to lubricate your mountain bike, including the benefits of lubrication and the difference between grease and lube. Whether you’re a seasoned mountain biker or just starting out, this article will help you keep your bike in top condition.

how to lubricate your mountain bike

Esther Pueyo/Adobe Stock

Lube Vs. Grease: Which is Better?

When it comes to lubricating your mountain bike, there are two main options: lube and grease. Both have their own benefits and disadvantages, and choosing the right one can be confusing.

Lube is a thin liquid that is applied to the bike’s components to reduce friction and prevent wear. It is specifically designed for bikes and is formulated to withstand the demands of cycling. Lube is easy to apply and spreads evenly over the surface, making it ideal for lubricating chains and other moving parts.

Grease, on the other hand, is a thicker substance that is designed to provide a long-lasting barrier between metal surfaces. It can be used for lubricating pivot points and other high-stress areas where erosion between heavy parts is likely to occur. Grease is also resistant to water, making it a good option for lubricating in wet conditions.

Both lube and grease have their own unique benefits, and are useful in different situations. By understanding the differences between the two, you can choose the best option for your mountain bike to help create an effortless and hassle-free riding experience.

Parts of a mountain bike (how to lubricate your mountain bike)

Parts of a mountain bike. Credit: www.schoolworkerhelper.net

Reference the above diagram as we now delve into the steps required to make sure your mountain bike stays lubricated, increasing the chances that it will perform at a high level for years to come!

1. Preparing the Bike for Lubrication: Cleaning

Before lubricating, it’s essential to clean the bike to remove any dirt, grime, or debris that may have accumulated on its parts. Use a degreaser to clean the chain, derailleurs, and cassette. A simple mixture of warm water and dish soap will do the trick for the rest of the bike. Make sure to dry the components thoroughly before moving on to the next step (water and lubricant don’t mix!).

2. Lubricating the Critical Component: The Chain

The chain is the most integral component to lubricate on your mountain bike. Apply a few drops of bike-specific lubricant to each link and work the chain back and forth to spread it evenly. Wipe off any excess lubricant to prevent attracting dirt and grime.

3. Smooth Shifting and Pedaling: Derailleurs and Cassette

The derailleurs and cassette can also benefit from a drop or two of lubricant. Apply the lubricant to the moving parts and pivot points, being careful not to get any lubricant on the brake rotors or rubber components where traction is necessary.

4. Reducing Friction at Pivot Points

Pivot points, such as the suspension pivots, can benefit from lubricant as well. These points see a lot of movement, so it’s essential to keep them transitioning smoothly to reduce friction and prolong the life of your bike.

5. Ensuring Optimal Operation: Lubricating Dry Spots

Check the rest of your bike for any dry spots that may need lubrication, such as the brake and shifter cables. Adding lubricant to these areas can contribute to the efficient and long-lasting use of your bicycle. 


Tim Foster/Unsplash

It’s recommended to lubricate your mountain bike every few rides, or at least once every three months, depending on the frequency and intensity of your use. In wet and muddy conditions, it’s a good idea to lubricate after each ride to prevent corrosion.

Lubricating your mountain bike is a simple and effective way to prolong its lifespan and get the most out of its performance capabilities. As part of a regular maintenance schedule, you can mitigate costly part repairs and service fees, and focus more on the sport you’ve invested in and grown to love.

10 Mistakes to Avoid When Fixing a Bike

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We all make mistakes, but when it comes to our bikes they can be costly. Here are some of the most common mistakes to avoid while fixing your bike.

1: Tube and Tire Mistakes

One common issue always comes up when fixing a bike becomes necessary. It happens when you fail to seat the bead, and attempt to air up the tire. The tube bulges out between the tire and rim and then BANG! There goes a new tube. Always check around the perimeter of the tire to make sure it’s inside the rim. You will also want to make sure that you can’t see the inner tube when you push the tire inward so you can see the inside of the rim. A tube between the tire and rim will flat instantly as well. Keep checking all the way around also as you add pressure so it doesn’t slip out.

Many a new tube has been pinch-punctured by using tire levers to g

et the tire back on, leading to any amount of frustration, bad words, and a tire that won’t hold air. It happens when you mistakenly get the under-inflated tube between the rim and tire lever. When you use the lever to pry, it pinches a hole, and you never know it till you try to inflate the tube. It’s best to skip the levers and use your thumbs and finger to apply brute force to get the tire back on the rim. Sometimes though the tire is simply too tight and you need to use levers; just be careful.

2: Bad PSI

Failure to air up the tire to it’s proper PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) promotes premature tire wear, poor handling and performance. Too much air is dangerous. Always check the side of the tire for the printed info and get the PSI right. If you’re heavier, error with a few more pounds, if you’re lighter, you can take a few out to soften your ride.

3: Not Understanding Tools When Fixing A Bike

A multi-tool might sound like it can repair anything that can go wrong when fixing a bike, and most of them do. But if it doesn’t have the right bits or tips to adjust your saddle height, shift your slipped handlebar, adjust your headset, or fix a broken chain, then it’s a waste of space and added weight. Get to know what your multi-tool is capable of. The chain breaker is probably one of the tools that you should practice with ahead of time. They can be difficult to use if you don’t know what you’re doing especially on the side of the road.

4: Failing to Change a Cable

A fraying cable is ugly. There’s nothing worse than to look down and  see a frayed cable hanging from the derailleur or emerging from your shifter or brake lever. Once cables start to fray there’s no going back, replace it as soon as possible. Don’t make the mistake of trying to run it any longer than you need to.

Make sure that the cable end caps — they look like silver bullets — are installed at the ends of cables. You can pick them up for pennies at any bike shop. There’s no excuse for running cables without them. When pinching the caps on the end of the cables, make sure you don’t pinch them too hard causing them to split or cut.

5: Messing with Your High and Low Limit Screws

The limit screws in your derailleurs rarely, if ever get loose. They are there to set the limits of your derailleur’s movement up and down. If your bike shifts clean and crisp when you first bought it, chances are you’ll never need to touch the limit screws ever again. Don’t make the mistake of messing with it unless you know what you’re doing. Once you get it out of whack, it can be a pain to get it back where it belongs.

If your shifting has suddenly gone awry, it’s typically NOT because the limit screws are off. It’s because of a dirty cable, cable housing or cable tension or a bent derailleur hanger. Never use a screwdriver on limit screws before trying everything else. Normally it’s just a simple adjustment of the barrel adjuster.

6: Bad Lubing Techniques

This one is one of the most common first time cycling maintenance mistakes; using the wrong lube on your chain (lube that’s not bicycle-specific) and lubing without cleaning first. Adding lube to a dirty chain is a recipe for chain wear and eventual failure. It’s smart to wipe down your chain with a clean rag after every ride. You probably won’t do this, but it’s still a good idea. Then apply the correct lube and give it a light wipe down after to wipe off any excess.

7: Tightening the Quick Release Wrong

The cam (up and down) action of a quick-release is the only way to secure your wheel to the hub. It prevents the wheel from getting wrenched out of the fork when put under sudden, extreme loads. Adjust the skewer nut to allow the lever and cam to swing past top dead center and firmly into the closed position with adequate pressure. The lever is tight when it leaves a small indention in the skin on your palm. Don’t rotate the nut or lever to tighten after it’s closed.

8: Over-Tightening Headset Cap

Modern headset systems are threadless. They work by pre-loading the bearings with the cap on top ( the vertical bolt on top of your steerer-tube is not used to hold the stem in place). The torque to secure the stem is added with pinch bolts perpendicular to the stem.

If you can hear a clunking coming from your front end or if your handlebars feel unstable — then it’s fine to add some pressure to the stem by tightening the cap on top a bit at a time with the bolts on the side loose until the clunking stops. Then tighten down the pinch bolts on the side of the stem.  You only need this top bolt tight enough to remove bearing play. If it causes resistance in your steering — it’s too tight. A full run-down is explained here.

9: Failure to do Maintenance on Your Seatpost

Don’t leave your seatpost in the bike for extended periods of time. Three months is doable. Six months is way too long.  Seatposts tend to seize up and it makes it impossible to change saddle height. Forcing it up or down results in breaking it. Even if it’s been greased, the grease breaks down and eventually allows oxidation to occur, and moisture seeps into the frame. Not only do metal seatposts seize, carbon posts seize as well. Apply a generous dollop of grease to metal after cleaning. Use carbon specific grease or lube for carbon.

10: Not Closing the Quick Release on Your Brakes

The most common mistake when fixing a bike is saved for last; failure to close the quick release on the brake after changing or removing a tire. All cyclists are guilty of it. The brake quick release allows you to easily remove or install a wheel as the brake opens up further to allow the pumped up tire to easily fit through the brake. If you forget to close the quick release after, you are going to have to pull your brake lever a lot farther for the pads to touch the rim. If they’re too far, they may not have the ability to stop you because your brake levers will bottom out against your handlebars.

A Guide to the Best Cycling Sunglasses

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When you’re first getting into cycling, sunglasses may not be on the top of your list of must-haves. Most people will throw on their everyday sunglasses and hop on their bike. However, depending on the fit, they may become a pain in a hurry. There are a few things that make cycling sunglasses (or sports performance sunglasses) more up for the task at hand.

What to Look for in Cycling Sunglasses

Fit

Fit with any type of apparel is important, but sunglasses that don’t fit properly can slide down your nose, give you a pressure headache, or even create blindspots in your vision. Most brands of cycling sunglasses will have hydrophilic rubber on the nose and arms, which actually gains grip as you sweat. You will also want to try sunglasses on with your helmet to make sure the arms are comfortable. Most will have straight-back temples for optimal helmet compatibility.

Shape and Coverage

When you’re on your bike, you want the biggest field of vision possible for your own safety. When you shoulder check, you don’t want the edge of your sunglasses getting in the way and blocking your view of traffic. This is why most cycling sunglasses wrap around and include your peripherals.

Lenses

Lighter lenses are better for cycling because they can help enhance the contrast of the road, allowing you to see obstacles or rough pavement before you hit it. Most of these will have UV protection, so they will protect your eyes, but grey lenses can make the ground, shadows and potholes all look the same. Investing in prescription sunglasses can also be great for those who don’t want to wear contacts, but you will want to get the wrap around lenses so you will have clear vision in your peripherals.

The Best Cycling Sunglasses

Oakley Radar EV

Price: $193

Oakley’s original Radar eyewear combined everything they learned from decades of research with the world’s best athletes, and came out with the Oakley Radar EV. These have taller lenses, extending vision, and PRIZM Road lenses. A step beyond polarized lenses, this technology enhances contract like never before. With a lightweight design and replaceable nosepiece, you won’t even feel like you’re wearing them.

Julbo Aerolite

Price: $189

Designed with the help of world-class ultrarunners, mountain bikers and road cyclists, the Julbo Aerolite is super lightweight and fast. They have a rimless design with a wide lens surface for broad field of vision and an aerated structure that allows complete air circulation to avoid fog. With a smaller design, these are a great option for women or people with small faces, and the nose pads are adjustable to ensure a snug fit.

Bolle B-Rock

Price: $115

The Bolle B-Rock sunglasses have the benefits of the single wrap around lens, but with the added stability of a full frame. The lenses are treated with an oleophobic layer (repelling dirt, grease and water), anti-fog, and anti-reflective technology. The nosepiece adjusts both front to back, and side to side –which is great if you find other models sit too close to your eyes and eyelashes.

Smith Attack Max

Price: $249

Lightweight with extended lenses, the Smith Attack Max are for the more aggressive rider. If you spend a lot of time down on your drops, then these are probably the glasses for you. With a hydroleophobic finish, they keep sweat or rain from fogging up the lenses.

Spy Helm 2

Price: $100

The Spy Helm 2 are a great option for those wanting to buy just one pair of sunglasses that will be good for running, cycling, and hitting the patio for some post-ride beers. This upgraded model has five-barrel hinges making them “nearly indestructible” and include Happy Lens technology. Spy claims that this let’s in the good rays, while blocking out the bad ones.

Routine Bike Maintenance: Make your bike last longer

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We all want our bikes to last us a lifetime, but we do have to give them a little love and attention to prolong their lifespan. Staring at your bike lovingly or tucking it into your bed at night may be tempting, but it won’t do much in making it last longer. Routine bike maintenance is the easiest way to ensure the financial and emotional investment you’ve put into your bike doesn’t go to waste.

Routine bike maintenance isn’t complicated, but it can take some dedication. When you’ve finished a long ride, you may want to just lean up your bike and go have a nap, but it’s better if you establish a post-ride routine that includes a little bit of TLC.

Routine Bike Maintenance

1. Keep it clean

It’s simple, but so important. Keeping your bike clean ensures your bike not only looks great, but also keeps all it’s part working flawlessly. Obviously you aren’t going to clean your bike meticulously after every ride, make sure you do whenever you ride in the rain or mud.

In addition to that, but put your bike on a regular cleaning schedule. At the very least clean it once per month. It obviously depends on how often you ride, but if you want to keep your bike in smooth working condition, once a month is a bare minimum. For some tips on how to clean your bike, check out “How To Clean Your Bike in 5 Minutes or Less.”

2. Lubrication and Grease

Make sure your bike is lubricated properly as it protects moving parts from excessive wear and tear (choose an appropriate lube for the riding conditions you’re in). On the other hand, make sure not to go nuts as too much lubrication will attract dirt and cause just as much damage. Allow the lube to soak in and then wipe any excess off with a clean rag.

Most importantly you want to lube the chain, but also all the other moving parts including brake and derailleur levers, and cables. You’ll also want to grease any threaded bolts such as the stem, derailleurs, and pedals. If you have any bearings apart, make they are all well greased.

3. Regularly Replace the Chain

Chains travel countless times over sharp gears, often under a heavy load. They wear out and stretch over time because of dirt, gunk and attrition. A little bit of chain stretch over time is ok and will always occur. The problem becomes when it stretches too far and the teeth on the cassette begin to wear out as well. Before long you will not only have to replace the chain but the cassette as well.

You’ll want to replace your chain every 1,000 – 2,000 miles, once a year, or whenever the chain is starting to show signs of wear. It’s a simple task that any cyclist can accomplish on their own with the right tools and know-how.

4. Inspect Your Bike

Inspect the frame for cracks or serious dents that are more than just cosmetic. Specific areas to look at are the joints particularly around the head tube and bottom bracket. If there are any cracks, even if it looks like it’s just paint, take the bike to your local bike shop to be looked at by an expert. For this reason (and a lot of others) it’s a good idea to take you bike in for a yearly tune up and checkover at your LBS.

5. Ride Clean Roads

Okay, that may not be possible, but riding in the rain and mud is going to wear out your bike and components more quickly. If you can be strategic with your route to avoid areas with a lot of mud and gravel it can go a long way. That being said, this is why many cyclists have a more budget friendly bike to ride in such conditions, and keep their more expensive bike out of the elements.

6. Cover it up or keep it inside.

Leaving your bike open to the elements will speed up the aging process. The sun, water and dirt will end up causing damage to your bike and cost you in repairs. If you’re in a humid climate, rust on certain metal components can also develop quicker. If possible, keep your bike inside. However, if you live in an apartment building or do not have adequate space, you will want to at least keep it covered.

Your Bike Tune-Up Checklist

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You may not get rusty after not riding for a while, but your bike just might. Doing a regular bike tune-up is what will keep you cruising safely and comfortably, and will make your bike last for the long haul. Routine bike maintenance isn’t complicated, but it can take some dedication. When you’re headed out for a long ride, or are just pulling your bike out of storage, you may want to just hop on and go, but it’s better if you establish a pre and post ride routine that includes a little bit of TLC.

It’s recommended that you get a bike tune-up every 2000 miles, but it’s great to make a habit of checking things off this list.

Bike Tune-Up Checklist

Make Sure It’s Clean

You should always put your bike away clean, but if you happened to stash it away before giving it a good wipe down, take the time to clean it now. Use some degreaser to clean off the chain, chainrings, derailleur and cassette. Then use a wet rag to to give the whole frame a wipe down.

Check Your Brakes

Next you’ll want to check your brakes. First, look at the pads and check for signs of wear and tear. If you can see lines or metal poking through the brake pads, then it’s time to replace them. Adjust them so they are hitting the rim properly, and make sure the lever pull isn’t too loose or too tight. If you find they are grinding after being adjusted, you may need to sand them down or check your rims for imperfections. Take a look at your brake cable for wear, looking out for and loose strands or rust.

Check Your Seat

Check that your seat is firmly in place and hasn’t wiggled loose over the miles.

Tire Pressure

This may be a temping one to skip, but you should always check your tire pressure before heading out on a ride. To do this, use a gauge and match the psi to the numbers printed on the side of the tire (most will be around 120 psi).

Check Your Chain

Chains travel countless times over sharp gears, often under a heavy load. They wear out and stretch over time because of dirt, gunk and attrition. A little bit of chain stretch over time is ok and will always occur. The problem becomes when it stretches too far and the teeth on the cassette begin to wear out as well. Before long you will not only have to replace the chain but the cassette as well.

You’ll want to replace your chain every 1,000 – 2,000 miles, once a year, or whenever the chain is starting to show signs of wear.

Lube It Up

Make sure your bike is lubricated properly as it protects moving parts from excessive wear and tear (choose an appropriate lube for the riding conditions you’re in). On the other hand, make sure not to go nuts as too much lubrication will attract dirt and cause just as much damage. Allow the lube to soak in and then wipe any excess off with a clean rag.

Most importantly you want to lube the chain, but also all the other moving parts including brake and derailleur levers, and cables. You’ll also want to grease any threaded bolts such as the stem, derailleurs, and pedals. If you have any bearings apart, make they are all well greased.

Inspect Your Bike

Inspect the frame for cracks or serious dents that are more than just cosmetic. Specific areas to look at are the joints particularly around the head tube and bottom bracket. If there are any cracks, even if it looks like it’s just paint, take the bike to your local bike shop to be looked at by an expert.

Things You Need to Know About Maintaining Your Bike Chain

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What’s the one part of your bike that has the most individual pieces to it? Not many would guess the chain, but today’s chain has eight parts per link which makes for a lot of moving parts with over fifty links in the average chain. Maintaining your bike chain will make it shift more smoothly and quieter, it will also last longer and help preserve the life of your cassette. With that many moving parts there’s more than one step to keeping it rolling like it should.

Maintaining Your Bike Chain

Things You Need to Know About Maintaining Your Bike Chain

Bike Chains Wear Out

As with any other part on your bike, chains wear out, often quicker than we would like. Chains wear by ‘stretching’ and no longer lining up perfectly with the teeth of the cassette. This stretch is not the actual metal stretching but rather the pin in each link wearing against the inner and outer plates of the chain causing the hole in each to be ever so slightly larger. This happens the fastest when it is metal on metal when the pin rotates within the plates. To keep this from happening as much, oil keeps these contact points properly lubricated so the metal doesn’t grind into each other and wear out as quickly.

How To Measure Chain Wear

A little bit of chain stretch over time is ok and will always occur. The problem becomes when it stretches too far and the teeth on the cassette begin to wear out as well. Before long you will not only have to replace the chain, but the cassette as well.

There is a handy tool that measures if a chain is stretched but you can do the same with a tape measure. A full link measures one inch in length when brand new. To account for a number of links, measure one foot from the exact same point on the chain to see how much it has stretched. If the foot mark falls less than 1/16th of an inch from the same point on the link, the chain is still golden. If it’s over 1/16th of an inch you need to replace the chain, but probably don’t have to replace the cassette.

The only real way to test if you have to replace the cassette as well is to ride the bike with the new chain and put pressure on the pedals in a few of the smaller gears. If the chain slips, they don’t line up enough, but if there are no issues, you’re good to go. If the chain measures over 1/8th of an inch off you will need a new chain and cassette.

How To Wash a Bike Chain

There are a number of approaches to washing a chain including taking it completely off the bike, but the best and easiest way is to clean it while on the bike with a degreaser. Before washing your bike, spin the pedals backwards applying a degreaser. Then with a sturdy bristled brush, scrub the chain to get the degreaser further into the links while also dislodging any grit and grime.

One added effective way to clean your chain is to use a chain cleaner mechanism that has a number of rotating brushes in a small plastic box that is filled with degreaser. Running your chain through this not only coats it with degreaser but also brushes a lot of the grit and old oil off of it easily.

After degreasing and brushing, wash the chain with regular soap and water as you would the rest of your bike and then follow it up with a good spray through the links to make sure all the grit is out of it as well as any leftover degreaser.

Wiping Your Chain

Following a thorough wash, spin the pedals backwards running the chain through a clean rag to get as much moisture out of the chain as possible. This should actually be done after every ride because when you ride, oil seeps onto the entirety of the chain while collecting debris from the road. If left on, this debris will eventually work its way into the moving parts of the chain causing it to wear out even faster. Plus wiping your chain leaves your it looking like new for every ride and not black which can cause a nice mark on your leg if you’re not careful.

A good trick is to leave a rag easily accessible next to where you leave your bike and whenever you finish a ride, give it a quick wipe down. And then any oil that does get on your hands can just be washed off as you go inside.

Applying Chain Lube

Now that we’ve gotten all of the prerequisites out of the way – washing and wiping the chain, we can now apply bike specific chain lube. Chain lube isn’t just oil. Oil specifically for bikes is thin enough to get into the tiny spaces between the pins and links yet thick enough that it doesn’t wear off super quick.

  • Where To Lube and How Much

The objective of oiling a chain is to get the oil inside the moving parts of the chain, not on the outside as it doesn’t do anything there. The best way to do this is to use an oil can that has a small nozzle that you can apply directly to the rollers of the chain in the center with a drop or two on each. Do this while spinning the chain backwards; once if you’re certain that you applied enough oil on the first go around, otherwise a second or third time. Once you stop dripping oil on the chain, keep spinning the pedals backwards. This will keep all the parts of the chain moving to get the oil further into the chain itself.

After the oil has made its way inside the chain, take another clean rag and wipe off all of the excess by spinning the pedals backwards through the rag a few times. You need to do this because you don’t need oil on the outside of the chain as it can collect road grit more easily and get into the chain itself along with just being dirty in general.

If you keep your chain properly lubed as well as washed on a regular basis to keep grit from getting inside of it, your chain will last much longer and will shift and sound better. It doesn’t take a lot to keep your chain lubed and running smooth but it does take knowing how to do it. Just keep a rag and bottle of lube next to where you keep your bike and you’ll be sure to remember especially after now knowing exactly what causes your chain to wear out and stretch.

4 Ways To Protect Your Bike While Traveling

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Strapping your bike on your car and heading out on an adventure can be a great way to expand your cycling experience. You can find quiet roads or some new new single track and get away from your go-to routes. The only issue can be figuring out how to best protect your bike while travelling from one place to another.

There are quite a few options when it comes to transporting your bike, and you have to find what will work best for you. This will also be determined by what kind of vehicle you have. Here are some of the best ways to protect your bike and ensure your adventure isn’t tainted by a damaged or stolen bike.

Protect Your Bike

Pick the Right Carrier

  • Rear Mounted Carriers

Rear mounted carried are easy to use, but can have some drawbacks to consider. In most cases they limit access to the trunk or back of the vehicle, which can become an issue when it comes to gear. They are also more susceptible to damage, whether it be from dirt and rocks or an accident. You also need to ensure your plates and lights remain visible, as this can be cause for a road fine in many countries.

  • Roof Racks

Not only does a roof rack tell the world that you are a fun Protect Your Bikeoutdoorsy person, but the it is a great option when it comes to transporting your bike. You can either keep your front wheel on, or some require you remove the front wheel and include a fork grabber that can be locked for extra security. Although roof racks generally keep your bike a lot cleaner, it increases your wind resistance and can affect how your car handles. It can also be difficult to get your bike on and off the roof depending on the height. Plus, there is the added risk of forgetting it’s up there and driving under something (like a garage) and hearing that sickening crunch.

  • In your car

Protect Your BikeSome choose to remove the front wheel and transport their bike in the vehicle for piece of mind. Yes, this is the cheapest and perhaps the most secure method, but it does have its drawbacks. Not only can it be awkward to get your bike in and out, but it can damage your vehicle through catching material or bike grease and dirt. Also, it doesn’t leave much room for anything else if you are heading out with some friends or need other gear.

Position the Bike Correctly

Almost all bike carriers will hold the bike frame somewhere for stability. You’ll want to make sure to place the clamp as close as possible to the frame joint as that’s where the frame will be strongest. This is particularly important for carbon frame bikes.

Lock it up

If you are going to leave your bike unsupervised on your car for any amount of time then you’re going to want to lock it up. Many bike racks include a locking mechanism, but an additional lock is always a good idea. Not only does it make thieft more difficult, but it a visual deterrent to bike thieves in the first place. Whenever possible be sure to leave your car and bike in a well lit and populated area.

Keep it clean

To help avoid scratches while transporting your bike, give it a wipe down before popping it on or in your Protect Your Bikecar. This is especially important for carbon bikes. Likewise, you’ll want to keep your bike rack nice and clean to keep dirt from getting trapped between your bike and the rack. If you’re using a rear mounted bike you can also use a bike cover to keep your bike clean and protect it from incoming rocks and dust.

No matter how far you are transporting it, make sure you take the necessary things with you to protect your bike. Always take a bike lock, at rag or wipe to give your bike a quick clean, and a bike cover if you are going to be leaving your bike out in the elements for any period of time.

How To Clean Your Bike in 5 Minutes or Less

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Having a clean bike that looks good and works flawlessly is something that all pro riders have for every single ride. Their trick though is that they have a mechanic who keeps their bike looking and working like new. You too can have that clean, smooth working bike without spending ages working on it after every ride. The trick is to know what to do and having everything set-up and ready to use when you clean your bike.

How to clean your bike

Washing

After a ride in the rain, mud, or other gnarly elements, using water on your bike is the easiest way to get your bike clean. It gets the big stuff off without having to wipe your bike a million times with a towel or rag.

The Hose Approach

If you have a hose, leave it set up so all you have to do is turn on the water and hose down your bike. Leave the wheels on as you aren’t doing a top to bottom scrub. You just want to hose everything off and get the grit out of the nooks and crannies.  Do a once over on the whole bike but when you get to the drivetrain put the spray on the chain and run the pedals backwards. After a few revolutions, keep spinning the pedals backwards but move the spray to the cassette and then the pulley wheels on the rear derailleur. Also get both brakes good.

The Bucket Approach

If you don’t have a hose, a bucket is your next best alternative. Get a sponge, or an old t-shirt, and get it sopping wet and wipe down the bike starting with the handle bars, then frame, then wheels, and then drive train to get to progressively dirtier and dirtier areas of the bike. You’ll have to ring out the sponge, or t-shirt, a few times depending on how dirty your bike is. When you get to the drivetrain you’ll spin the pedals backwards with the sponge in your other hand cupping the chain.  This will get a good bit of any gunk that has built up off. Then scrub what you can off both derailleurs. After you are done scrubbing, take the remaining water and dump it slowly over the whole bike washing away anything that was left behind.

Wiping Down

If your bike wasn’t too dirty you didn’t have to hose down or use a bucket luckily. Whether you just used water on your bike or it wasn’t too dirty, you will now wipe down the bike. The best approach to this is to get a dry rag and some simple degreaser.  Start with the dry rag and run it over the shifters and handle bars. Then spray a little degreaser (such as Simple Green which is light enough on everything) on a corner of the rag and wipe down the frame, scrubbing a little where it needs it. The degreaser will easily remove any dirt and grime on the bike and leave it shining like a pro’s bike. After you’ve gone over the frame, go over the rims but since you still want ample use of your brakes, don’t wipe the braking surface since the degreaser is quite slippery. A little bit won’t hurt it though if you do accidentally rub a little bit on it.

Next is the drivetrain. Take the degreaser and spray a little on both the front and rear derailleurs in their smallest gear and then again in the biggest. This allows the degreaser to get into the moving parts. Then wipe down both. Now that your rag has a descent amount of degreaser on it, run the chain backwards with the rag grasped around it. This will help to get it clean and shiny again. If you used a bit too much degreaser, take another clean dry rag and wipe down the bike again as you don’t want a slippery frame. Doing this will get your bike looking clean. How long it stays clean though is up to you.

Lubing the Chain

A smooth working bike, provided you’ve taken proper care of it with parts that aren’t too warn out, keeps it staying smooth and feeling like new due to proper lubrication. You should lube your chain every few rides at least but definitely after cleaning your bike. Since you already ran the chain through a rag when you were cleaning the bike you don’t have to do that again. If you didn’t and you’re just lubing the chain, run the chain backwards through a rag.

Take your bottle of lube and tilt the bottle slightly placing the nozzle so it just touches the top of the chain and a single drop comes out of the bottle. Now turn the pedals backwards getting roughly a drop on each link. The key to lubing a chain is that you want the lube inside the pins, not on the surface. Once you’ve gone around one to three times depending upon how dry you chain is, take the bottle away but continue running the pedals backwards. This will help to get the lube inside the chain itself. Now take a rag and run the chain backwards once again wiping off any excess lube. Your chain should now look sparkling clean.

Smooth Shifting

To keep your shifting working smooth you now want to put the bike in its biggest gear and then littlest putting a few drops of lube at all of the pivot points. Shift the gears from the biggest to the smallest and vice-versa a couple of times and then wipe off any excess lube. Now, assuming you have old school cables, flip your bike upside down, taking care not to scratch the shifters, and put a couple drops of lube underneath the bottom bracket on the cables where they slide through the plastic sleeves. Many bikes today have different cable routing designs so you’ll have to look at your bike and see where the friction points occur. They are going to be right around here where they make the bends to their respective derailleurs. Once you do this shift through all the gears a few times and add a few more drops if needed.

Now you have a clean, well-oiled machine that you obtained with minimal effort. Keep your sponges, rags, degreaser, and lube together in a convenient spot where you can grab it and be done with it five minutes after your ride. And if your bike tends to get a bit more dirty, keep a hose or bucket handy so you can do a once over on it quickly while still in your kit. Not only will you now show up on all your rides with a bike that looks like a pro mechanic took care of, it’ll work like one did too. Keeping your bike clean and lubed will also help your parts last longer too!

The Best Cycling Gifts for Him

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Do you have a cyclist on your gift list? Or are you one yourself? Either way, it can be tough to think of a cycling gift for someone who most likely has everything they need. Luckily, cycling includes a long list of useful gadgets that can make for great gifts or stocking stuffers. Plus, the right amount of anything to do with cycling is n+1, with ‘n’ being the current number.

If you’re looking for gifts for the female cyclists in your life, check out “10 Best Cycling Gifts for Her” or “50 Of The Best Cycling Gifts” for a larger range of products.

Water Bottle

You can never have enough water bottles, between losing them and your kids stealing them. Camelbak water bottles are particularly great as they won’t leak and make it east to squirt water into your mouth while your on the bike.

Bicycle Calendar

Everyone needs a calendar, so it may as well include inspiring photos to get them out riding. There are a ton of options, from road cycling to mountain biking, and it’s just in time for the New Year!

Socks

Socks don’t have to be boring! Pick up some fun socks that are also a great fit for in a cycling shoe and you can’t go wrong.

Beginner tool kit

If you own a bike, then you need to own at least the basic tools. This beginner tool kit by Park Tool has everything you need to get you through basic maintenance and repairs. For a step-by-step guide to get you going, check out “101 Best Bike Repair and Maintenance Tips.”

Go Pro

Do you know someone who’s always fumbling with their phone out on a ride trying to get the perfect footage? The GoPro Hero series has made getting sports video on the go simple and fun. With specific handlebar or chest mounts, you can take both photos and video with a click of a button. Well worth the price tag, this one will be sure to please.

Patch Kit

Patch kits are something you can use up in a hurry if you’re riding a lot, so a spare or two is always a good idea. Find a kit that includes both the patches and a tube of self-vulcanizing fluid to ensure they can make it home with no issues after a flat.

Multi Tool

A good multi-tool can be the difference between a minor roadblock in your ride or a long walk home. If your chain breaks mid-ride and you don’t have a multi-tool with you, then you could be in trouble. For some things to think about before purchasing a multi tool for yourself or someone else, check out “Best Biking Multi-Tools 2017.”

Gloves

Cycling gloves are great for those early morning commutes or winter rides. As the hands are essentially breaking the wind, they can easily become cold and numb. Be sure to get a pair with a breathable and padded palm for ultimate comfort.

Cliff Bars

The original “better tasting energy bar,” cliff bars are a staple in many cycling kits. Perfect for stuffing into stockings, or as a present all their own, you can be sure these bars will sustain many rides.

Cleaning Kit

Although splashing some water on your bike will take off some of the more noticeable dirt, doing a deep clean on a bike every so often can go a long way in ensuring its longevity. Brushes can make this a whole lot easier, especially when it comes to cleaning the chain. Check out some of the best degreasers as well to include with a cleaning kit.

Bike Light

Cycling at night may seem daunting at first, but with a proper light there’s no need to hide inside. This can be a perfect gift to get someone outfitted for cycling safely at night or on their daily commute.

Event Entry

It may not be the best idea to buy someone an entry into a race you’re not sure they want to do. However, if they’ve been talking about doing a century ride forever, you could buy them and yourself entries and train together!

Garmin Cycling Computer

Garmin has come a long way in the past few years, with Bluetooth integration, in-ride challenges through Strava live segments, and more fields of information than you can imagine. It is an invaluable tool for the cyclist that diligently keeps track of ride data.

Strava Premium

The free version of Strava is great on its own, but the premium membership includes features like: personalized coaching, live feedback, and advanced analysis. You can buy a month’s trial for someone, or go ahead and get them a year’s membership.

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