Training

This Cyclist Stretched Every Day For a Month – Here’s What Happened

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Let’s be honest, most cyclists are not known for their flexibility. Not saying I thought it was a waste of time, but I’d rather be out riding than sitting around at home in downward dog.

I’ve been an endurance athlete for most of my life, and with that has come both the joys and the pains of pushing my body to its limits. It also meant that I had no problem crushing a 100 mile ride, but I couldn’t bend over and touch my toes. My limited range of motion had never been a problem for me, so I didn’t pay it much attention.

About a year ago I started having hip pain that eventually turned into knee pain, and I found myself forced off my bike. After sitting around in self pity for a few weeks, I decided to take matters into my own hands. I called up a local sports physiotherapist and set up an appointment. His prescription? Twenty minutes of targeted mobility movements and stretches a day.

In my case the pain may have reared its head in the hip and knee, but the underlying cause is something most cyclists deal with. Dr. Ackerman explained that,

Most people have muscle imbalances, especially in today’s office chair culture, but the issue is taken one step further with cyclists. Hours on the bike is just more time in a bent over position that will inevitably lead to tight hamstrings, weak hip flexors, rounded shoulders, and a pelvic tilt.

The moral of the story? We sit too much, don’t move enough, and as cyclists we spent a lot of time in one position with repetitive movement. Don’t get me wrong, cycling is great for your health, but we’re not engaging our bodies in different types of movements, which in turn leads to imbalance.

Top: Excessive Lumbar Flexion with rounded shoulders. Bottom: A neutral spine in proper cycling position.

This all made sense to me, but it wasn’t until I started paying attention to my posture that I realized just how bad my muscle imbalances had progressed. On the bike my spine would naturally round as my shoulders were pulled forward by tight lats, and tension would gather in my low back. As pictured, tight hamstrings and a weak core accentuated the poor posture.

Now that the problem had been made clear, it was time for some solutions. Along with some specific movements and poses, Dr. Ackerman recommended I try out Dynamic Cyclist, which provides daily stretching videos for cyclists. I was skeptical at first, but on day one as I moved through the poses it felt like my pain points were being pulled apart- in a good way.

After the first routine I decided I would stretch everyday for a month and see how my body adapted. It was totally worth it. Within a couple weeks I could feel my posture improving, I became more aware of how my muscles and joints were feeling day to day and, most importantly, my knee pain was gone.

With my new found mobility, when I finally hopped back on my bike it was no problem maintaining proper posture with a neutral spine and relaxed shoulders. As I tackled my first climb I could feel new found power from my glutes and I was breaking PRs all over my regular route. I felt like I was ten years younger and couldn’t wipe the smile off my face as I rode.

I know it may seem like a stretch, but getting mobilized really has changed my body for the better. If you want to give it a try for yourself, check out Dynamic Cyclist and start your 7 day free trial.

Bike Accidents Happen – Here’s What You Need To Know

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Evel Knievel once said, “pain is temporary, bones heal.” If you’re a cyclist you can identify. The majority of road bikers don’t wear protective gear of any kind. But if you’ve done any serious miles, you know that hitting the pavement is unavoidable. It’s part of cycling. Bike accidents happen, here’s what you need to know to make sure you get back on your bike.

Bike Accidents Happen

Don’t Let Fear Hold You Back

Fear of an injury should never keep you off your bike. But if you do go down, it’s good to know the mechanics of getting injured. Fortunately for cyclists, road rash is the most common injury, and typically doesn’t require a call to 911. Lacerations, broken bones and internal injuries require more attention to details.

The big lesson to learn from crashing is that while cyclists use the sport as a way to relieve stress, staying engaged on the bike is paramount to safety. Making stupid mistakes that could have been avoided is typically what causes cyclists to go down. It’s important to remember that you’re flying down the road at high speeds, wearing what some consider little more than underwear.

Remain Calm

Cycling crashes often look worse than they really are, and when pedestrians or motorists see someone scraped up and bleeding, they sometimes over-react. If you’re the one who crashed, you may end up needing to help your over-enthusiastic rescuer to calm down. If you’re coming to the aid of someone who crashed, stay calm and do your best to keep them calm.

Hitting the pavement can cause you to become disoriented. Making decisions right after a crash might not be the best idea. It’s not always a good idea to jump to your feet instantly after a crash. Do a short inventory of your condition. Did you hit your head? If you’re unsure, check your helmet for damage. Can you recall what day it is. Do you know your name? Do you know where you are?

If it’s another cyclist on the ground instead of you, these are important questions to ask them. If you’re by yourself and you’ve determined that you did indeed hit your head, you might not be thinking clearly. You may think you’re fine but you’re not. If you have damage to your helmet, the safest thing to do is call for someone to come and get you.

Take Your Time

Cycling produces endorphins, which are natural painkillers, and they make you feel good. Take time to settle down before moving around to any extent. Stay on the ground. Its not wise to jump up, only to crumple back down in a heap of pain. If you have a concussion you’re probably confused. If you don’t recall exactly where you are and what you’re doing, it’s likely you do have a concussion.

Check For Injury

Check your body next. Can you feel your limbs. Do you have bones sticking out of your skin. Is there a lot of blood. Don’t risk moving too much if you feel seriously injured. Call for help. If everything seems to check out OK, stand up slowly. Take a few moments to steady yourself, and then try to lift your bike. If you can lift it without excessive pain, it’s relatively safe to assume that your upper body is fine. Try to walk. If you can walk, and your joints can bear your weight, you can probably pedal your bike again.

It might not feel like it at first, but road rash is a sign that you may not have broken bones. Crashing at speed causes you to slide on the pavement, which can disperse the energy from a crash. Slower speeds often result in broken bones. That’s one reason why mountain bikers often break more bones than roadies. Hitting the ground hard, without tumbling or sliding breaks hips, wrists and arms. Low speed tip-overs break bones. High-speed slides shred clothing and removes skin, but often spares bones.

Road Rash

Road rash is about the only thing you can deal with by yourself, typically without professional medical attention.  In most cases it’s not too painful right after the crash, but once you get home, the suffering starts. It’s painful because of the number of nerve ends that have become exposed.

Infection is a real risk with road rash. Cleaning debris out of wounds is an awful lot easier without hairs in the way. It’s one of the main reasons for cyclists shaving their legs.

If you get a patch of road rash, assess the severity of the wound. If it’s larger than your palm, it’s wise to seek medical attention. If you’ve got debris, sand, gravel, pebbles, sticks or anything else embedded in the wound, it typically requires a visit to the ER, with pain medication, the proper equipment and experience to remove the debris and clean the wound.

  • Clean It — If Possible

It’s unlikely that you have the medical equipment on your bike to take care of road rash. But if you are going to maintain first aid gear, keep a bottle of saline, and some gauze for cleaning the wound. If you’re treating yourself, the first step is the most important – clean the wound as thoroughly as possible by squirting the saline solution over the wound and using sterile wipes.

  • Be Gentle

Clean road rash as gently as possible. Scrubbing road rash is not recommended, it embeds particles even deeper into the wound, and besides that, it’s extremely painful to scrub road rash. Most cyclists don’t have the necessary first aid on board to deal with road rash. Call someone if possible. Place gauze over it if you have it, and try to keep the road rash from drying out before you get home, where you can deal with it properly.

Road Id Bracelet

Don’t think yourself immune to a more serious accident. It might be that you become incapacitated, and you need to let someone know who you are, even if you’re down for the count. Think about having a road Identification bracelet made for you. It’s a good way for paramedics to find your critical information. This way the hospital knows your medical history and can call your spouse, parents or children.

From Pavement to Trails: Mountain Biking for Beginners

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Mountain biking is one of the greatest ways to get some exercise, spend time outside, and hang out with friends. For road bikers, it can be a great way to switch things up, get out on some new terrain, or stay in shape while the weather may not accommodate hitting the pavement. However, there are some major differences between the two, so here is a guide to mountain biking for beginners.

If you have only ridden a road bike, there will be some key differences you’ll notice right off the bat. Mountain bikes have much wider tires with rugged tread for optimal traction and durability on off road terrain. With road biking you want to minimize the contact point between the bike and the road, but on trails you want as much traction as possible. There will also be some sort of suspension system to make riding over rough terrain bearable.

The Bike

First things first, you need a mountain bike. Before deciding what kind you want, you need to think about what type of riding you’re going to be doing. Generally speaking, this will break down into two main features: suspension type and wheel diameter.  There are three main types of mountain bikes when it comes to suspension: rigid, hardtail, and full suspension. Wheel diameter is a choice between 26, 27.5, and 29ers.

Rigid mountain bikes are a bit more rare, but some people do choose to use them. With no suspension, they are less expensive and easy to maintain, but can make for a pretty rough ride when tackling technical trails.

Mountain Biking for Beginners

Hardtail mountain bikes have a suspension fork in the front, but not the rear of the bike. They are typically less expensive because there are less moving parts, and can have the option to lock out the front suspension for more efficient climbing. Many cross country riders will choose a hardtail as they allow for more direct power transfer between the pedal stroke and the rear tire.

Mountain Biking for Beginners

Full suspension bikes are a bit more complicated, so there are more variations when it comes down to the specifics. Generally, there is front fork suspension as well as a rear shock to absorb as much of the trail as possible. If you’ve been riding a hardtail and get on a full suspension for the first time, it will almost feel like you’re floating. It makes for a much more forgiving and smooth ride. Most downhill bikes will be full suspension, but more and more cross country bikes also feature full suspension.

Mountain Biking for Beginners

The Gear

A Helmet

Mountain biking is a ton of fun, but it can also be really dangerous. So, you should always wear a helmet anytime you hop on your mountain bike. It should fit your head snugly, and be level on your head so it doesn’t obscure your vision.

Gloves

Gloves are not a necessity, but they are definitely nice to have when you’re starting out. Not only will they protect your hands if you crash, but they can reduce soreness that comes from the vibrations of the bike on rough terrain. For summer riding you can get fingerless gloves so your hands don’t overheat, but you’ll want a pair with fingers for the coolers months.

A pump, puncture repair kit, and multi-tool

Punctures and their resulting flats are almost inevitable, so you should have the proper equipment and know-how to do a quick fix to at least get you home or to the bike shop. You should always carry a pump, repair kit, and multi-tool with you on your rides, whether in a saddle bag or in a backpack.

Clothing

The most important thing is to be comfortable in what you’re wearing. You may think a plain t-shirt would be the easiest thing, but as soon as it gets wet from rain or sweat, it’s going to become cold and clammy (not to mention the chaffing). You’ll want at least an athletic-specific top designed from a moisture wicking material. You should also always carry a windproof or rain jacket in case the weather takes turn!

As for shorts or pants, its a good idea to invest in a pair of bike shorts with padding. You could use your road cycling shorts, or there are mountain biking specific shorts with a more casual, baggy look.

The Technique

Perhaps the more drastic difference between mountain biking and road biking is in the technique. The key for mountain biking is to stay relaxed and flexible on your bike, as it’s going to jump around a lot more than you may be used to. If you are used to just sitting and spinning, this can be a bit of an adjustment.

You want to always be looking ahead on the trail towards what is coming up. Staring at your front wheel may work to get over some roots, but it’s also a good way to clip a tree.

Riding Downhill

Tip: Don’t do this.

When you hit a downhill, stand up on your pedals (keeping them level) and try get your weight to the back of the bike, pushing your hips backwards behind the seat if possible. Keep your legs and elbows bent with your body low to the bike. This will keep you from flying over the handlebars if you need to stop suddenly.

Climbing

If you see a climb coming up on the trail, you want to ensure you gear down well in advance. You want to try stay seated and spin in an easy gear when possible, as standing and pedaling hard can cause you to spin out and lose traction.

Riding through corners

Cornering can also be a bit of a challenge in the beginning, but they are a ton of fun once you get your technique down! You want to take control of your speed BEFORE you hit the corner so you can roll through it without touching your breaks. As with descending, you may want to stand on your pedals with your knees flexed as you lean into the corner.

Obstacles

Obstacles like rocks and roots are the reason for both the width and tread of mountain bike tires. They are built to roll over these things. So, it is more likely you’ll have to conquer the mental aspect of it rather than the physical. When you see an obstacle coming up on the trail, pick your route and exit point then commit to it mentally. Control your speed and try ride through without breaking. Make sure you are not resting all your weight on your handlebars, but instead keep your arms and legs flexed and your butt off the saddle, pulling your front wheel up to pop over the obstacle. Once you’ve done it a few times, it will become second nature.

Mountain biking for beginners can be a little overwhelming, but the learning curve is well worth it! Start off with some easy, rolling terrain, and you’ll be tackling those technical rides in no time.

Steps to Master Clipping In On Your Bike

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The fear of clipping in on your bike is a real thing when you’re just starting out. However, it’s not just a right of passage as you move from beginner to intermediate, but it also has some clear advantages. Riding clipless pedals allows you to ride further, faster, and over more technical terrain while giving you a smoother, more comfortable pedal stroke.  The fear is well worth working through, and with these tips you can be clipping in and out like a pro in no time.

The Clipless System

First things first, what are clipless pedals? The name may seem counter intuitive, but it stems from the time when toe-clips (with a cage and strap that secured your toe to the pedal) were popular, so the term clipless was born as a way of differentiating the system.

The three part system that makes up a clipless pedal starts with the pedal itself. This has a spindle just like a normal platform pedal, but the plastic or metal platform is shaped in a way to allow the second part of the system, a matching cleat, to snap into it. A spring-loaded mechanism then secures the cleat in place so it doesn’t slide around or pull out. The cleat is then attached to the final part of a clipless pedal system, the shoe. Shoes are made specifically for these cleats to be attached to the bottom of them via bolts. This three part system works in sync to keep your foot where it should be on the pedal as well as allowing you to pull up during the pedal stroke. In this three part system, the cleats always come with the pedal as they are made to fit exclusively with each other.

Why should you clip in?

You may have heard stories of the classic slow motion tip over that happens when cyclists are getting used to being clipped in. It’s fair to say that most have experienced this somewhat embarrassing turn of events, but don’t let it deter you from taking the leap. Some of the advantages are:

  • Clipping in allows you to recruit more muscles to increase pedaling efficiency. It’s not necessarily about being able to pull up as well as push down, but about creating forward momentum as you pull through the bottom of the pedal stroke.
  • When you have your pedals and cleats set up properly for you, being clipped in will keep you in the optimum riding position.
  • Your feet won’t slide around like they do on flat pedals.

Pedal Systems

As mentioned above, there are three variable in the clipless pedal system: the pedals, the shoes, and the cleats. There are two main types within this definition.

  • Mountain/Touring System

A mountain setup, also referred to as a touring setup, consists of a pedal that can be clipped in easily on both sides. The cleat, which is attached with two bolts, is a smaller metal piece that is recessed into the shoe which is for mountain and touring only. The shoe has a walkable sole with a bit of tread on it to allow for easy and functional walking. This type of pedal is the only choice for mountain biking but also is a great choice if you are riding on the road, but have frequent stops where you are walking around.

  • Road System

A road pedal set-up is made for road riding where walking is mostly avoided and efficiency is a high priority. Road pedals consist of a lightweight pedal that accepts a lightweight, typically plastic, cleat. The cleat is then attached to a “road” shoe with three bolts in a triangle pattern. This system creates a lighter and more aerodynamic pedal and shoe combo that is optimized for road riding.

Clipless pedals are a great way to improve your cycling and as you start to ride longer and farther it becomes a logical choice. A simple, non-high end, pedal and shoe system can actually be quite cheap and as your cycling progresses you can always upgrade. Cycling is full of technological advances and clipless pedals, although simple, provide an incredible advantage to both racers and recreational riders alike.

Getting Started Clipping In

At Home

Once you’re comfortable on your bike and have been set up with your first set of clipless pedals and shoes, it’s time start practicing. Before hitting the road (and those inevitable red lights), you’ll want practice clipping in and out. Sit on your seat and lean against something like a countertop or a wall so you can stay in place while spinning the pedals backwards.

To clip in, most systems work by first engaging the front part of the cleat, then pressing the back part down into the pedal. Once clipping in, try spinning your legs backwards and getting a feel for being clipped in. Next you’ll want to practice getting out the pedals. Try twisting your heel out, disengaging the pedal from the cleat. This should be fairly easy, so if you find you are really having to put in all your effort to unclip, then you will need to find the tension adjustment and back it off a little.

On the Road

Starting out, find a flat to slightly downhill stretch to get rolling on.  With one foot still on the ground, clip the other into the pedal and bring it to the top of the pedal stroke.  Then push off with the foot that is on the ground and give a big push of the pedal with the foot that’s already clipped in.  Now you will have some momentum and can now clip in your other foot. Make sure this is on a safe stretch of road or area as you won’t be paying attention to traffic, but can focus on your feet.

Now that you have both feet clipped in and have taken a couple of pedal strokes, it’s time to unclip.  While coasting put one foot down to the bottom of the pedal stroke and unclip (twisting your heel out).  Now you can come to a stop and put your foot on the ground.

Now do the above again, and again, and again.  You want to be comfortable finding your pedals and getting clipped in quickly as well as unclipping. During your first few rides you will have to focus on clipping in and out, but once you do it enough it will become a habit and you’ll find you will think about it less and less.

6 Tips To Speed Up Post Ride Recovery

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We get it, when you get home after a long ride all you want to do is collapse on the couch with a beer. There may not be anything wrong with that, but what you do after your ride can be just as important as the ride itself. If you miss the opportunity to give your body what it needs to recover, it can have negative effects in the long run. So here’s what you need to know about post ride recovery to bounce back from a hard ride feeling even stronger and faster.

6 Tips To Speed Up Post Ride Recovery

Cool Down

You may want to do a final sprint on your final segment home, but it’s important to take some time for a cool down. Stopping abruptly can cause blood to actually pool in your legs, so you’ll want to gently spin your legs and lower your heart rate for at least 5 minutes at the end of each ride.

Stretch & Roll

You may not have access to a massage therapist after every ride, but massaging your legs after a ride encourages blood flow to the muscle, pushing out waste products of muscle breakdown and aiding muscle recovery. Using a roam roller is like having your own personal massage therapist, as painful as it can be. Stretching your muscles in a way that returns them to their natural state of balance is also important to recovery. If you want to learn more about the best stretches for cyclists, check out Dynamic Cyclist for more information.

Hydrate 

Dehydration can slow the recovery process, so be sure to drink up after a ride. Whether it be water or an electrolyte drink, be sure to replenish your body before reaching for that beer.

Have a Nap

A long ride is the perfect excuse to go for that afternoon nap. Sleep is one of the most important parts of recovery, as your body enters full relaxation mode. Whether it be having a 30 minute nap, or going to bed a little earlier that night, getting plenty of sleep will help boost your recovery.

Have a Meal 

Hard rides can eat through your carbohydrate stores pretty quick, so it’s important to replenish within an hour after your ride. A meal that is both carb-rich and high in protein is ideal to restock glycogen and speed up muscle recovery.

Hot/Cold Shower

Contrast water therapy (a fancy name for alternating between hot and cold) can help reduce inflammation and increase blood circulation to the areas that need it. Although the science hasn’t fully backed the method, there’s a reason why many professional athletes and coaches still swear by it.

Routine Bike Maintenance: Make your bike last longer

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We all want our bikes to last us a lifetime, but we do have to give them a little love and attention to prolong their lifespan. Staring at your bike lovingly or tucking it into your bed at night may be tempting, but it won’t do much in making it last longer. Routine bike maintenance is the easiest way to ensure the financial and emotional investment you’ve put into your bike doesn’t go to waste.

Routine bike maintenance isn’t complicated, but it can take some dedication. When you’ve finished a long ride, you may want to just lean up your bike and go have a nap, but it’s better if you establish a post-ride routine that includes a little bit of TLC.

Routine Bike Maintenance

1. Keep it clean

It’s simple, but so important. Keeping your bike clean ensures your bike not only looks great, but also keeps all it’s part working flawlessly. Obviously you aren’t going to clean your bike meticulously after every ride, make sure you do whenever you ride in the rain or mud.

In addition to that, but put your bike on a regular cleaning schedule. At the very least clean it once per month. It obviously depends on how often you ride, but if you want to keep your bike in smooth working condition, once a month is a bare minimum. For some tips on how to clean your bike, check out “How To Clean Your Bike in 5 Minutes or Less.”

2. Lubrication and Grease

Make sure your bike is lubricated properly as it protects moving parts from excessive wear and tear (choose an appropriate lube for the riding conditions you’re in). On the other hand, make sure not to go nuts as too much lubrication will attract dirt and cause just as much damage. Allow the lube to soak in and then wipe any excess off with a clean rag.

Most importantly you want to lube the chain, but also all the other moving parts including brake and derailleur levers, and cables. You’ll also want to grease any threaded bolts such as the stem, derailleurs, and pedals. If you have any bearings apart, make they are all well greased.

3. Regularly Replace the Chain

Chains travel countless times over sharp gears, often under a heavy load. They wear out and stretch over time because of dirt, gunk and attrition. A little bit of chain stretch over time is ok and will always occur. The problem becomes when it stretches too far and the teeth on the cassette begin to wear out as well. Before long you will not only have to replace the chain but the cassette as well.

You’ll want to replace your chain every 1,000 – 2,000 miles, once a year, or whenever the chain is starting to show signs of wear. It’s a simple task that any cyclist can accomplish on their own with the right tools and know-how.

4. Inspect Your Bike

Inspect the frame for cracks or serious dents that are more than just cosmetic. Specific areas to look at are the joints particularly around the head tube and bottom bracket. If there are any cracks, even if it looks like it’s just paint, take the bike to your local bike shop to be looked at by an expert. For this reason (and a lot of others) it’s a good idea to take you bike in for a yearly tune up and checkover at your LBS.

5. Ride Clean Roads

Okay, that may not be possible, but riding in the rain and mud is going to wear out your bike and components more quickly. If you can be strategic with your route to avoid areas with a lot of mud and gravel it can go a long way. That being said, this is why many cyclists have a more budget friendly bike to ride in such conditions, and keep their more expensive bike out of the elements.

6. Cover it up or keep it inside.

Leaving your bike open to the elements will speed up the aging process. The sun, water and dirt will end up causing damage to your bike and cost you in repairs. If you’re in a humid climate, rust on certain metal components can also develop quicker. If possible, keep your bike inside. However, if you live in an apartment building or do not have adequate space, you will want to at least keep it covered.

4 Ways Cycling Makes You a Stronger Runner

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Some runners like to poke fun at us cyclists, with our padded shorts and funny looking shoes. Yes, we spend hours out on roads pretending we’re in the Tour De France, but cycling is one of the best forms of cardio for all athletes. If you both run and ride, then you already know that cycling is key to making your running game a whole lot stronger. Here are just some of the ways cycling makes you a stronger runner.

Cycling Makes You a Stronger Runner

How Cycling Makes You a Stronger Runner

Active Recovery

Many runners will turn to cycling after an injury. Stress fractures and joint pain are common to running, and cycling offers a great low-impact solution to keep you moving. It’s also a great means of active recovery. After a long run, it’s tough to find the motivation to get back out the next day for some active recovery. Hopping on your bike will help increase your blood flow, flush out lactate acids, and get your muscles loosened up and ready to run again.

Strengthen Complimentary Muscles

It’s easy to get into a routine with a single activity. If you find yourself exclusively running, you are strengthening certain muscles within a specific range of motion, while others are left underdeveloped. It’s easy to hit a plateau with your training, as doing the same thing every day will eventually stop yielding results. This is why cross training within any sport is so important. When you start cycling, you’ll be using those same muscles, but in a different and new way. You’ll find your legs and core will thank you, and yes, will make you a faster and more efficient runner.

Leg Speed

Cadence is a huge part of cycling, but the same idea applies to running. Both cycling and running require a consistent and steady motion, cadence for cyclists and leg turnover for runners. The more you ride and work on having a cadence of 90-100 rpm, the more your legs will be able to mirror that quick turnover while your running.

Give Your Joints a Break

You can work on your running mechanics all you want, but the truth of it is, running will inevitably put a pounding on your body. Especially for marathon and ultra runners, it can become hard to maintain high milage without injury. Cycling can provide you the workout you need, without the impact. If you don’t won’t to replace a whole run with a ride, try switching half way through. It can be a great way to train running on tired legs without putting your ankles, knees, and hips through a beating first.

If you’re not convinced, give it a try and experience the benefits for yourself. Both your body and your mind will thank you. For more on starting cycling, check out our complete guide for beginners. The added benefit to adding cycling to your running training is– you only have to start swimming and you can tackle a triathlon!

6 On-the-Bike Snacks For Your Jersey Pocket

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If you’re out on a ride when hunger strikes, there’s nothing worse than empty jersey pockets. On the bike snacks allow you the right food at the right time, not only keeping the hunger pains away, but also feeding your muscles and fighting off fatigue. A great guideline is that if you’re going to be out for anything over an hour, then take some snacks along.

That being said, as much as the right foods can have a positive effect on your ride, the wrong foods can have the same amount of impact. Sweet snacks may be tempting when the blood sugar is beginning to drop, but it will just cause a bigger crash later. Having the right snacks with you, stashed in your jersey pocket, will set you up for a great ride.

The Best On-The-Bike Snacks

What makes a good bike snack? It’s not just about giving you energy, but also its portability and durability. Things that will get squished or even melt will not be the most appetizing when you’re out on a ride. Here are some the best on the bike snacks:

Bananas

Bananas are nature’s energy bars, already wrapped and ready to go. Packed full of potassium and carbohydrates, you really can’t beat it for a mid-ride snack.

Energy Bars

You’ll want to be picky with which energy bars you take with you on your ride as so many are packed full of sugar they can have as much nutritional value as a chocolate bar. Check out the ingredients and go for ones with more whole grains, dried fruits and nuts as opposed to processed sugars. Even better you could make your own!

PB & J

The classic peanut butter and jelly (or honey) sandwich is a standby for a reason. Not only is it delicious, but it provides a great boost of lasting energy. Substitute the bread for a wrap so it doesn’t get squished and you’re on your way!

Trail Mix

Dried fruit and nuts are a great source of concentrated carbohydrates and potassium. Trail mix is also a great thing that you can make just the way you like. Head to the bulk food section of your grocery store and buy the mixins! (Maybe take it easy on the chocolate though).

Dried Fruit

If the idea of nuts and seeds is a little dry, go for some dried fruit. It’s sweeter alternative, and is convenient to carry around. Most dried fruits retain their nutritious content, so feel free to snack away!

Cycling Uphill: Common Climbing Mistakes

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Love them or hate them, cycling uphill is an inevitable part of cycling (unless you somehow map out perfectly flat routes). So, when you’re sitting at the bottom of a daunting climb what is your go-to game plan? When you’re pushing your muscles to edge of their ability, you can only tell them to “shut up” so many times – no matter how tough you are they are going to win that conversation.

A common inner monologue when approaching a hill is to start telling yourself to “Attack the hill!” Although this mantra may be effective in keeping your mental toughness up, the overall technique doesn’t work. Here are some of the most common mistakes cyclists make on climbs, and how to hit those hills with confidence.

Pacing

Attacking the hill may work if it is small climb with the crest in view from the bottom. However, if you go in too aggressively, sure you’ll feel strong at the bottom, but once you hit a certain point it’s easy to hit a wall. You overexert your muscles and skyrocket your heart rate rather than pacing yourself for the long game. If you find yourself often slowing to a crawl halfway through a climb, think about gearing down earlier and keep those legs spinning. You will then have the energy to “attack the hill” when you reach the final push over the top.

Using Too High A Gear

It may sound obvious, but many cyclists are guilty of heading into hills in a high gear because of that fresh leg feeling. As mentioned above, it may feel great at the start of the hill, but soon you’ll be grinding that gear and giving your all just to stay upright. Gear down before hitting the hill, keeping your legs spinning at 70 rpm or more. If you find your legs slowing down, gear down to keep your rpm in that range.

Stress and Improper Breathing

Not everyone is a natural climber, and looking up at a tough climb can be stressful mentally. If you find yourself gripping your handlebars with a vice grip, it’s a sign that you need to work on relaxing your body. Instead of wondering if you’re going to make it and letting the panic settle in, break the hill into segments in your mind. Starting easy, keep your body relaxed and breathing as deep and slow as possible.

As it starts to get tougher, think about engaging your core, flattening your back and powering each pedal stroke through your core. Pick a landmark up ahead and ‘real it in.’ Once you’ve reached it, pick another. Giving yourself these small victories can help keep you positive and focused, no matter what your legs are saying.

Standing Up

Standing up can cause you to blow up sooner as it puts more load on your legs resulting in an increased need in oxygen to be delivered. Contrarily, staying in the saddle keeps your heart rate down. Of course, if you are a lighter rider and have practiced standing and climbing, then there’s nothing wrong with using it as a time to stretch your legs and put down some extra power, just use it sparingly.

Under Fueling

If you’re approaching a tough climb, you want to be well-fueled. This doesn’t mean chowing down an energy bar right before hitting a hill, that will sit like a rock in your stomach. Instead, work on having a bite and some sips of water every 20 minutes or so on a ride with a lot of climbing. If you start feeling lightheaded and weak, this could be a sign that you haven’t fueled your body properly.

Not Riding Enough Hills!

You’re not going to get better at anything by wishing it into reality. Climbing is tough, and it’s never going to get easier, but the more you challenge yourself the stronger you’ll get. Half the battle is finding your rhythm with climbing. Once you do, you may find yourself even looking forward to the hills!

What Muscles Do You Use When Cycling?

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With cycling’s focus on aerobic capacity, metabolic capabilities, and ability to suffer, it can be easy to forget that all of these important aspects are what drive your muscles that power the bike. Boiled down, that is all pedaling a bike is – recruiting your body to produce energy to move muscles to move the bike forward. What muscles do you you use when cycling though? And in which part of the pedal stroke do you use each one? Read on and you’ll know.

what muscles do you use when cycling

What Muscles Do You Use When Cycling?

The short answer is a lot. Many of your leg muscles drive the pedals, but you also use core muscles to push those legs muscles off of and hold you semi-upright on the bike (for the sake of this article, hip flexors are part of your core). You use your arms in a supporting role. But mostly, it is your legs that do the work. The other muscles only need enough conditioning and strengthening to allow your legs to do their work without distraction. Do not be fooled; enough conditioning and strengthening for core and arms is more than just riding.

The Cyclist’s Main Attraction

Looking at a group of cyclists standing around, their most prominent feature is their calves – the gastrocnemius. They are chiseled and defined and often quite a bit larger than the average person’s calves. What role do they play in the pedal stroke and power production? The answer is that they only transmit the force of power produced in the quadraceps for most of pedal stroke.

In the dead spot of the pedal stroke, from six to nine o’clock, the calves provide a little force to get over the top of the pedal stroke. The front side of the lower leg, the tibialis anterior, for a moment becomes a star in that six to nine o’clock range when it is the only muscle working to get that leg over the dead spot.

The lower leg can be impressive in appearance, but in reality, it provides little of the force from a cyclist’s legs. The size and shape is not an indicator of a rider’s strength. At a given level, most of those factors are genetic. Calves will tell you nothing of a rider’s ability. No need to be intimidated by chiseled calves.

The Meat and Potatoes

Between the knees and the hips is the seat of a cyclist’s power. That seat of power is most productive on the down stroke of the pedal stroke – from twelve to six o’clock. This is when your knee is extending and larger muscles put their effort into the pedals. This is different from six to twelve o’clock, when smaller muscles bring the pedals back up and around, providing little else other than reloading the crank for another go-around.

The muscles that keep you moving (in order of power produced) are the quadraceps at the front of your thighs, gluteals in your behind and hamstrings at the backs of your thighs. The quadraceps and gluteals extend your knee from its most bent to about four o’clock. Once the pedals get there, hamstrings take of the bulk of the workload bringing your pedals back towards six o’clock.

Implications for Your Pedal Stroke

Lots of people say you should have a round pedal stroke. Knowing what you know now of the muscles involved, you know that it is impossible to produce even power throughout the pedal stroke from one leg. The muscles you recruit between six and twelve o’clock are not powerful enough to make an impact on overall force. Almost all of your forward motion on a bicycle comes from pressing down on the pedals.

This is different from having a smooth pedal stroke, which is probably what most people mean but have not articulated properly. Smoothly transitioning from each phase of the pedal stroke will avoid jerky motions and add to efficiency. Pro cyclists look like they have round pedal strokes, but that comes from smoothness and hours upon hours of perfecting muscle memory. Guaranteed they are producing far more power in the front end of their pedaling.

Follow the Pain

Now that you know what muscles you use when cycling, you can use that to understand proper seat height and use it to help diagnose knee pain. Hamstrings pull on the knee and quadraceps push on the knee. If the outside or back of your knee hurts, it could be the hamstrings pulling too much on your knee. Try lowering your saddle to lessen the strain on your hamstrings. If your knee hurts on the inside or front, your quadraceps are pushing on your knee too much. Try raising your saddle to lessen the strain on your quadraceps.

Change your seat height in small increments. Big changes pull other variables into the mix and are harder to get used to.

Muscles Make the Pedals Go Around

Having a well-rounded understanding of “what muscles do you use when cycling” can help you focus on a better pedal stroke, strengthen comparatively weak muscles and diagnose problems. A little foundational knowledge can make you a better cyclist because you know what your body is doing and how it makes your bike go.

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