training tips - I Love Bicycling

How To Brake Efficiently on a Road Bike

April 10, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

When you’re starting out cycling, the first thing you need to do is master the basics. You may watch pro riders that make everything look effortless, but unfortunately there’s a lot more to it than may meet the eye. Once you’ve got the basics down, then it’s time to start getting specific. Although your fitness level will remain your most powerful weapon, don’t underestimate the gains from focusing and developing aspects of your bike handling skills. Learning how to brake efficiently on a road bike can not only make you faster, but it will make you feel more comfortable and confident on your bike.

How To Brake Efficiently on a Road Bike

Step 1: Beware of the Front Brake!

You’re front brake may be there to stop you, but your back brake is there to shave off speed. Roughly 70% of your stopping power comes from the front, which is why you never want to slam on just the front brake (pitching you over the handlebars). The best way to get the hang of how much to use each break is to go to a quiet section of road and practice. If you are skidding out, then you are putting too much pressure on the back brake. However, if you’re back wheel is lifting off the ground altogether, then you need to ease of that front brake.

Step 2: Get the Timing Right

When you’re wanting to come to a stop on your bike, you want to start slowing you speed by pulling the back brake. Look up at the spot you want to stop at rather than your front wheel. Slowly start to ease the front brake to further reduce your speed. Keep your shoulders relaxed and arms slightly bend, while focusing on that same stopping spot. Release the front break once you’re going slow enough and use the back brake to bring yourself to a complete stop.

Step 3: Master the Weight Shift

One of the most common beginner mistakes is distributing body weight incorrectly. This will not only effect your braking efficiency, but also your bike response and handling. If you’re on the drops, your center of gravity will be lower than if you’re on the hoods. The hoods feel safer, as you can brake harder with your weight shifting towards the rear of the back.

Being able to pedal through corners may be the most efficient, but it will also take some time and practice to master. You want to do all of you slowing down BEFORE the corner, and you should be able to to leave your brakes untouched through the corner. If you find yourself skidding, shift your weight as far back on the bike as you can.

Step 4: Adapt to the Road Conditions

If the roads are wet and slick, you’ll want to reduce the amount of pressure you put on the breaks. Your technique should be a lot softer then it is on dry roads, and you need to remain especially aware of obstacles. Road markings and manhole covers become very slippery, and you won’t be able to stop as quickly.

Step 5: Give Your Brakes a Little Love

Before heading out on a ride, make sure your brakes are clean, dry and well adjusted. If your brakes are too loose, and you have to squeeze the levers all the way to the handlebar to get any kind of stopping power, you’ll want to loosen your barrel adjusters a few turns. This actually tightens the brake cables and therefore tightens the brakes. If your brakes are so tight that they don’t let your wheels turn, then you can tighten the barrel adjusters back down and make some room.

Step 6: Practice, Practice, Practice

Mastering certain techniques will take time, and braking is no different. Find a quiet area or section of road that you can use to practice your braking technique. Start by building up speed, then stop yourself with the brakes. See how long it takes you to stop, and pay attention to the feedback from the tires. Are they skidding? Are you loosing grip? You will have to experiment to find what works best for you, and to get a feel for how your bike handles when braking.

How to Choose and Prep for Your First Road Race

November 28, 2019 by Sarah Lauzé

Taking the first step towards your first road race is a huge deal. Not only are you taking your love of cycling one step beyond a hobby, but you’re also entering the world of elite teams, expensive gear, and race day nerves. But don’t let any of that intimidate you. There are a ton of races out there catering to every skill level and type of riding. Your first road race should be something you look forward to, a goal that pushes your training, but remains fun throughout the entire process. Here’s what you you need to know about choosing, then prepping for your first road race.

Step 1: Find the Right Race/Event

First things first, you’ll want to decide the type of race you’re going to do.

Road Races

Road races are what you probably think of when you picture a bike race: a mass start on public or private roads, everyone aiming for the fastest time possible. Depending on the race, riders may be sorted into categories ranging from five (new racers) to one (just below professional). They can also vary in distance from a few miles to over 200. If you are entering a category race, be sure to enter into a suitable category. If it’s your first race, that doesn’t necessarily mean you should enter the slowest category. Try going out on a few group rides and gauge where you’re at in comparison to riders who have raced before.

Sportive

Whereas road races are very competitive, sportive events give riders a chance to be timed in a race-like setting, but with much less intensity. They are typically a longer distance, and are all about making it across the finish line in the best time for you. You could include Gran Fondos and Century Rides in this category as a marathon for cyclists. The riders at the front compete for the win, the riders in the middle go for a personal record, and the riders in the back aim to beat the cut-off time.

Criteriums

A criterium race (or crits, for short) are short, fast races held on closed loop courses usually between 0.5 and 2 miles in length. Crits differ from standard road races in that there is no fixed race distance. Instead, you race for a predetermined length of time…in most cases. As they are often a shorter duration then regular road races, crits are pretty much all-out from start to finish.

Cyclocross

Cyclocross is a type of race that occurs in a circuit of about 2.5-3.5km and consists of off-camber tracks on grass and dirt, sand pits, tight corners, stairs, and barriers. The races take place in city parks and organizers line up tape and obstacles to create the courses.

Gravel Grinders

A gravel grinder is a race or ride that typically combines riding on a variety of surfaces including asphalt, gravel, dirt, and even some single track. As this niche has become increasingly popular over the last couple years, there are a ton of events to choose from. Distances vary from 50–150+ miles, and the routes themselves from hard packed dirt roads to rocky and rough terrain.

Step 2: Get the Right Gear

Unfortunately with cycling, a lot of it does come down to having the proper tools for the job. Unless you’re willing to invest in new gear, be sure to sign up for a race that you can do on your current setup. In addition to a bike, you’ll need a helmet, cycling shoes, a jersey and cycling shorts with a good chamois.

Step 3: Start Training

Signing up for a race is a great way to get motivated to start riding more. The number one piece of training advice is to spend a whole lot of time on your bike. Although the top riders will likely be putting in upwards of 20 hours a week on their bike, the key is frequency. Get used to riding your bike almost every day, then start adding in some longer distances (start with one long ride a week). You can also start adding some tempo and interval work into your training to improve your ability to ride faster for longer.

Step 4: Keep it Fun

Once the race day finally arrives, no matter how prepared you are, nerves are a completely normal thing to experience. Check out this “Race Day List” for more on what to expect from the day of. Don’t forget, as nervous and anxious as you might feel before the race, you will also be a euphoric ball of joy after the finish line! Don’t worry too much about your results in your first few races, but focus more on the overall experience–including the training. So go ahead and sign up for that big event, trust that the nervous pit in your stomach is a good thing, and have a great time building lifelong memories on two wheels.

Ride All Year Round (Yes, even in the rain)

September 25, 2019 by Alison Jackson

The group ride starts at 8:00am but when you open your eyes in the morning it’s dark, cold and raining outside. The snooze button is a few feet from your head but that’s how far away you were from first place at last season’s key race. That’s why you pull yourself out of bed, make your coffee extra hot and get out in the rain to ride. Riding in the rain doesn’t have to be miserable, some of the best cycling is during the winter on the West Coast, also known as the Wet Coast for all the rain, and you don’t want to miss any training days this year. Here are a few tips for making riding in the rain a little more ‘fun’ so that you can ride all year round.

Safety First

The most important thing is to check your brakes. Rain will exaggerate the negative wear of brake pads, meaning if the pads are worn down and too far away from the rim of the tires, the braking reaction will be slower and less powerful.

Stopping control should not be compromised due to poor bike maintenance.

If you are going to be riding in the rain often you will need to replace your brake pads more often. Make sure that as your brake pads wear down you use your micro adjust on your cable to bring the pads in closer to the rim for optimal stopping action. Your rear brake pads should wear faster than the front so keep an eye on what is behind. Another thing to check is that there is an equal distance between right and left brake pad for simultaneous contact on the rim while braking.

Front and Rear Fenders

A lot of people when they start riding use only a rear fender for the rain (and to keep their friends riding behind them), but totally miss out on the benefits of a front fender. A rear fender is obvious to keep your back from getting the rooster tail spray and also helps the rain and mud the group that you’re pulling behind you (remember you’re training so you want to be in the front). However, what works for you might not work for the rider behind you. How long should your rear fender be?

Your rear fender should be as close to the ground as possible, try 4 inches from the pavement.

When buying fenders make sure they will fit your tire size. A skinny road tire fender will not suit a wider cyclocross or recreation road bike tire. Buy your fenders as long as possible, even then you might have to do your own modification to be suitable for your next rainy day group ride. Sometimes you can buy fender compatible extenders that you easily attach to reach the 4 inch rule. Other times, you can take an old water bottle, cut it in half, punch out two holes and zap strap it to the end of your fender. You can make this attachment as wide and sweeping as you want either to make more friends or add more resistance to your ride.

The same principles apply to your front fender. The front fender does miracles for delaying the wet penetration of road spray into your booties. The day after I got a front fender I came home after my rainy day ride and was surprised that I could actually feel my feet touch the floor when I took them out of my shoes!

Protect Your Head, Hands and Feet

You lose the most heat through your head so a rain hat with a brim not only keeps the water off your glasses, but also traps in some heat – unless it is made out of cotton, which soaks up the rain and stays cool. Choose a synthetic, quick-dry hat or better yet, a brimmed fleece cycling beanie that fits under your helmet and cuddles your ears to protect them from the cut of the wind.

The point to keeping your hands and feet warm is solely purposed for your riding comfort and greatly increases your happiness factor. If your hands or feet go numb it doesn’t matter how many times you stop for coffee, you will hate riding in the rain. Choose wool socks, maybe even two pairs! Even if they get wet they will stay warm. Buy a good pair of shoe covers, wind-proof is NOT rain-proof. A silicone or rubber pair will protect against the rain but have no additional thermal properties. A pair that is fleece lined and wind-proof will delay the wetness but can have enough of a barrier effect for your wool socks to maintain a warm enough temperature (and, if you’ve made it this far your front fender will help too!).

Wind-proof is NOT rainproof.

Use the double glove technique: a thin inner wool layer with a bulky winter snow glove on top. The lobster claw gloves came from the idea to have multiple fingers together in order to share body heat, but they don’t work for everyone because they feel different when shifting and braking. The outer glove layer needs to be a water-proof layer while the inner glove, as the insulated layer, than can be thicker or thinner depending on what weather you are expecting.

Layer-Up!

Your base layer should not be a base layer cycling shirt but a thick layer of embrocation cream. This stuff is incredibly popular for Belgian cyclocross races and during the wet Spring Classics. At the moment of application the lotion doesn’t seem to do anything but once rain or wind reach the cream it gives off a delightful glow of warmth on your skin. If on a rainy day ride you get stopped by a train crossing, the emobrocation layer keeps you from shivering, instead you wait at the railway crossing feeling tingly and warm! Just remember to put your chamois cream on first, then embrocation, and wash your hands after so you don’t burn your eyes from touching your face.

Apply chamois cream BEFORE applying embrocation lotion.

The next layer is a merino long-sleeve undershirt, short-sleeved jersey and water repellent rain jacket. If you get too warm on the ride and take off the rain jacket the merino wool can get wet while staying warm. Finish layering with a jersey and a waterproof-breathable jacket and get out riding in the rain!

Best Road Bike Upgrades

December 31, 2017 by Adam Farabaugh

As a cyclist we are always trying to improve. Improve ourselves in our fitness, bike handling skills, and the level at which we ride. There is general idea in cycling that you don’t need an upgrade to get faster, but rather ride up grades. While it’s true there are no shortcuts to get faster, there are some road bike upgrades can help you along your way.

Fortunately you don’t need a lot of time or money to make substantial improvements on your bike. Making a few improvements can help your riding in many ways, but the biggest issue is knowing which one is going to give you the most benefit.

Upgrade #1: Comfort

The most important thing in riding is comfort. The more comfortable you are on your bike the more you’ll ride, so the first things that you should upgrade are things that improve how you feel on your bike. Whether your bike is an entry level road bike or a top of the line model, some of the features may just not be a good fit for you.

Saddle

The saddle on your bike is the biggest part that is going to give or take away from your comfort. It’s very important to have one that’s a good fit for you and your style of riding. The best way to find the right saddle is to ask around and see what other people have ridden and if they have one you could try (most all bike shops will let you try before you buy). Some key things to look for is how wide the saddle is as you want it to match up with your sit-bones, as well as how soft or firm it is. A new saddle doesn’t have to cost a lot of money either and any money spent on a saddle is a good investment in your comfort.

Shoes

Your feet are the second biggest contact point with the bike, so making sure they’re comfortable as well will go a long way. Cycling shoes can be a bit more expensive than a saddle, but they will last a very long time so the extra money you spend here will last you years. The key to finding the right shoes is fit. Feet come in all shapes and sizes and a lot of shoes have different styles of foot beds; meaning some are wider and narrower in different spots throughout the shoe. The best way is to try a lot of them on and find what feels the best.

Upgrade #2: Reliability

Depending on where you’re riding, having a reliable bike can trump comfort, so unless you can easily catch a ride home, invest in improvements that will keep you rolling no matter what is thrown your way.

Tires

The thing that will slow you down the most are flat tires. The best way to prevent this is by having a set of tires that are not prone to flatting and replacing them when they are getting close to worn out. A good starting point is to get a wider tire, 25mm to 28mm if your bike frame will allow it. This will lessen the likelihood of pinch-flatting. A tire with harder casing and harder rubber, will last longer as well as be less penetrable. If you want to lessen the likelihood of flatting even more, consider upgrading to a tubeless set up that uses sealant inside the tire to fill any leaks before all the air escapes.

Brake Pads

Another area of the bike that you should make sure is in top-notch are the brakes. Being able to stop quickly not only gives you piece of mind, but also can prevent unnecessary crashes. Replace your brake pads before they wear out. Not changing them has the potential to not only leave you without good brakes on a ride but also can potentially damage your rim which will cost much more to replace than what the brake pads would have cost you.

Chain

Although chains break relatively infrequently, they still break. If you’re mid-ride and without a chain tool to take a link out to get you home, you’re going to be asking for a ride. The best way to prevent this is to replace your chain before it becomes old and worn out. This will also save you from having to get a new cassette along with the chain as the chain won’t have stretched past the point where a new one won’t mesh with the old cassette.

Upgrade #3: Speed

Now that you’ve upgraded the parts to your bike that have the biggest impact on you, you can upgrade a few specifics to help you ride faster. The cheapest to ride faster is to ride more, but once you’ve done that upgrading your equipment comes next.

Helmet

A more aerodynamic helmet can save up to 1 minute in a 40 km time trial. Now, no self respecting road cyclist is going to go strap on an aero TT helmet, but the principle still remains. A more aero helmet will shave time off your ride and is your best bang for your buck. Just make sure the helmet has enough vents if you are prone to overheating.

Wheels

Your wheels can easily be changed and may be contributing to what is slowing you down. Cheaper wheels can be heavy as well as less aerodynamic. Depending upon the riding that you’re doing, choosing a lighter and/or more aerodynamic wheelset can drastically improve your speed on climbs and flat sections.

Wheels can go up in price past the cost of your bike, most likely, so you need to find a good balance of lightness to aerodynamics to cost. Typically the best are a clincher rim, to give you the ability to easily change a tire, with a moderate amount of depth and are fairly light with a lower spoke count. There are about a zillion wheelsets out there both in aluminum and carbon. A bit of homework is required to find your perfect wheel but it’s time worth spending if you’re looking to improve your speed.

Clothes

You may not think that clothing would have a significant effect on speed; however, a skin suit can save over 2 minutes on 40 km time trial. This emphasizes how important the clothing you wear can be. Scrap the baggy clothing and embrace the lycra bib shorts and tight fitting jerseys.

Upgrade #4: Style

The last thing to improve on your bike is how it looks. Some may think this should fall higher on the list of what to upgrade, but in reality it’s not how you look, but that you’re out there doing what you want and having fun. Even at the professional level.

Bar Tape

Having clean, well-wrapped bar tape will make your bike look much better particularly after it has been cleaned. Color is personal preference, but typically any colors other than black or white are only used if it goes with colors on the bike. White typically is the most professional, but keeping it clean can be hard. Having well wrapped bars with black bar tape is the best style as it stays clean and looks good.

Bottle Cages

You probably already have bottle cages on your bike, but upgrading them to something lighter and sleeker looking can be a good option. The first thing though in upgrading bottle cages is making sure they still hold a bottle well even down a bumpy road. It can be the sweetest looking bottle cage in the world but if your bottle falls out, it didn’t do its one job and is worthless. After you’ve determined that it can securely hold a bottle, find a style and weight you like and match the color with your bike. Black typically goes with everything but it all depends. It’s style, find yours.

Saddle Bag

Style on the bike continues to more than just the bike itself. This continues to accessories on the bike such as a saddle bag that a lot of riders have just flopping around under their seat. Having a bag that isn’t too big and is securely attached to your seat not only has a purpose but also looks good. The best looking things are the ones that have a purpose and look good too.

Upgrading parts on your bike doesn’t have to be expensive and time consuming. Knowing which parts to upgrade first will help you get the most out of your riding. The best upgrades are the ones you need, not what other riders think you need. There is always the “latest and greatest” equipment out there but just because it’s sweet and functional for someone doesn’t mean that it’s a great investment. Often times the most simplest of upgrades will take your riding the farthest. Find that one upgrade, make it, and go on to the next when the time is right.

Training With Power

December 10, 2017 by Aaron Robson

One of the biggest revolutions in cycling training has been the introduction of the power meter as a training tool. It has rapidly thrown cycling into the highly technical world of sports science, and the benefits can be enormous – Chris Froome’s win in the 2013 Tour de France was aided greatly by Team Sky’s extensive use of power meters in both their training and racing plans. So what is power training, and more importantly, can it benefit you?

What is Power?

Everyone has heard of power, but unless you have a particularly good memory of high school physics, you may not be familiar with what it means in a technical sense. Power is defined as the rate of work; how much ‘work’ is done in a certain interval of time. Work is defined as a force applied over a distance. So power is essentially a measure of how hard you can push on the pedals (the force) and for how long (time). The harder you can push, and the longer you can maintain a certain level of ‘push’, the faster you go! And going faster is what bike racing is all about.

Why Should I Use it?

Now, you might be saying to yourself ‘OK, that’s nice. So what?’ Well, the ‘so what’ is that cyclists can use power to train and race much more effectively. Power is ultimately a measure of how hard you are working, and by using a power meter on your bike, you can more precisely monitor your effort. Other ways of monitoring effort do exist – rate of perceived exertion (a subjective assessment of how hard you feel you are working) and heart rate are the two most common methods, but neither comes close to the precision you get from a power meter.

This precision can be extremely beneficial to cyclists. By using a power meter on a climb, for example, you can ride the entire climb at precisely your optimal power output – never going too hard and pushing yourself into the ‘red zone’, but also not being too conservative and leaving too much in the tank at the end. You can also train more effectively, doing intervals at an exact percentage of your maximum output, or riding a tempo ride right at your lactate threshold to name a few possible applications.

How to Integrate Power into your Training

Hopefully you’re convinced that using a power meter can make you a better cyclist. The obvious question is how? First things first, you need a power meter. Debating the merits of the many options available on the market will be the subject of another article, but in short – invest in a good one. You might be tempted by the low cost of some models, but these are no where near as accurate as the better ones, and accuracy is the whole point of using a power meter. The cheapest worthwhile option I know of is the Stages Power meter, which retails for $700.

After you have your new power meter ready to go on your bike, the next step is to do some baseline tests to determine your power profile. Ideally, you will want to determine the maximum power you can produce for 5 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes and 30+ minutes (this last one is referred to a Functional Threshold Power). All-out 5 second effort is easy enough, and even a 1 minute maximum effort isn’t too daunting. The 5 minute and 30 minute efforts take a bit more planning to execute properly, but when you know all these numbers you will have a much better idea of your strengths and weaknesses as a rider. There are tables available online that provide approximate equivalent levels of power for each duration. If your values for 5 second and 1 minute power rate higher than your 5 minute and 30 min values, then you know you are relatively weaker aerobically, and can emphasize aerobic training.

Power meters also help you to gauge efforts better. If, for example, you know that your FTP is 300 Watts (watts are the standard unit of power), then you know that in a time trial that will take you about 45 minutes to complete, you shouldn’t be riding above 300 Watts at any time. Riding with the most even power output over the course of your effort will give you the best results.

It is impossible to cover every aspect of power training in a single article – there are entire books written about it. If you are an aspiring racer, or even just someone who loves to track progress, a power meter will be your best friend. Now that you are familiar with the basics, you can start your journey into training with power!

Pain in the Ass: Why You Shouldn’t Ignore Your Glutes

May 3, 2017 by Bria Edwards

The glutes are one of the largest and strongest muscles in your body. They are also sometimes the most ignored.

It’s easy to hop on your bike and head out for 20-50 miles and not give much thought to your pedal stroke, but maybe it is time you should. During each pedal stroke, your glutes should be the largest muscle group producing power in your legs. Some cyclists over time will become more quadricep dominant and lose power as well as glute activation.

Don’t Ignore Your Glutes!

Neglecting your butt is costing you power!

Glute Deactivation Leads to Aches and Pains

Losing “power” may be the least of your concerns if you let your glutes go unnoticed for too long. Below is a list of muscles and structures affected when you lose glute strength:

Overactive hamstrings (can lead to tendinitis)
Knee pain
Pain in right shoulder/thoracic region
Overused quads
Overused hip flexors/adductors

Glute Deactivation Impacts Your Hamstrings

If you ride at a rate of 90 revolutions per minute and you ride for 2 hours, that’s 10,800 pedal strokes you take for just one ride. If your glutes aren’t properly functioning that means your hamstrings have to work in overdrive in order to extend your legs during the pedal stroke.

Glute Deactivation Impacts Your Quads and Hip Flexors

Inactive glutes also places added stress to the quadricep muscles and hip flexors assisting in the downstroke of your pedal stroke. Overused quads can lead to tightness, which can ultimately lead to knee pain.

Glute Deactivation and Your Sore Back

Finally, glute inactivity can lead to back pain and soreness. Your glutes also aid in stability. If one side of your body has glute inactivity then the opposite side of your body needs to overcompensate to assist in stability. This instability triggers your opposite side of your upper body to take over the work, thus leading to shoulder discomfort.

Your glutes are connected to your whole body and influence proper muscle mechanics. Now comes the time to learn how to engage your glutes and get them firing on all cylinders!

Setting the Foundation: Pelvic Posture

First things first, proper pelvic posture is key. If your front side (anterior side of your hips/hip flexors) are tight you won’t be able to access your glutes completely. Work on keeping your pelvis in a neutral position and remember to keep your core engaged when practicing all glute exercises.

If this positioning is hard to achieve, adding in some hip flexor stretches may be beneficial.

These stretches can include a half kneeling lunge: To perform this stretch, place one knee down into a kneeling position and the opposite leg will be placed in front with the foot on the ground as shown below. While in this position, activate the glute of the leg which is kneeling (squeeze your butt!) and begin to slowly press forward. By activating the glutes, you allow the hip flexors to release. This release will allow you to access more range in the hip flexors in order to be stretched.

Another stretch to incorporate is the deep lunge. To perform this stretch you will begin by positioning yourself into the half kneeling lunge we just performed. From this position, begin by activating the glutes of the leg that is on the ground and slowly begin to lunge forward. From here, you will place both hands inside the leg that is forward as shown below. To vary the intensity of the stretch you can either keep your arms straight or work your way to your elbows.

Again, never force yourself into a position that is painful. Always listen to your body and ease your way into a stretch.

Now that we have the front side open, time to activate those glutes! You’ll only need one piece of equipment for this and that is an exercise band. You can find these at your local exercise equipment stores or Amazon.com

Below is a series of activation drills you can do prior to riding that will be sure to wake up your sleeping glutes!

Fire Hydrants: Target Muscle: Glute Max

Skates: Target Muscle: Glute Max

Monster Walks: Target Muscle: Glute Med

Bridges: Double and Side Leg, Target Muscle: Glute Max

As with any exercise, the number of repetitions and length of holds can vary based upon each individual. As always: you should consult with your doctor prior to starting any exercise program.
“It’s as easy as riding a bike.” This famous quote is true, riding your bike should be easy and most importantly; pain free. Incorporating a few simple exercises a day can save you discomfort and can reduce time taken away from riding, and that is a pain in the ass.

Stretching, Mobility & Strength Training for Cyclists

Looking for a program that will help you address muscle imbalances, such as weak glutes, that are likely causing you pain? Dynamic Cyclist is an online training platform designed to help cyclists become stronger and faster while riding pain free for years to come. Complete your regimen with an all-inclusive program that addresses mobility, flexibility, strength and injury prevention, all for a fraction of the cost of one physiotherapy appointment. Try out our 2 Week Burner Strength Program and experience the results for yourself. Click here to try 7 days free!

How Functional Mobility Will Make You Faster

April 3, 2017 by Andrew Funamoto

Another season begins, the snow melts, and the flowers bloom. The giddiness and excitement of your new bike overwhelms you and you’re putting a ton of kilometers in the bank. Your quadriceps are sore, your hamstrings are tight, your hips begin to seize. This is all part of getting faster, right? Wrong. Speed and strength does not have to come at the expense of mobility.

Due to the repetitive nature of the pedal stroke, cycling puts us in a particularly vulnerable situation. We spend hours hunched over the bars, spinning our legs at 100 revolutions per minute. The impact is low, but over time the muscular imbalances take a toll. Adding mobility and stability off the bike will bring your riding to the next level.

Stretching

We’ve heard it a thousand times: “Stretch!” But before you stretch, there are a few things to understand before you go whole hog and start lunging in the car park before the Saturday club ride.

Pre-Ride Stretching

Dynamic Stretching is the best way to get your body prepped for the rigors of your ride. While static stretching has been shown to negatively impact speed and power, dynamic stretching will get blood to your muscles, and mobility in your joints. Get a few of these dynamic stretches in before you down your coffee and crumpets.

Throughout the Ride

It’s still early in the season (remember?) and you’re barely hanging on late in your club ride, and your shoulder, neck and back are acting up. Take the time to move around a bit. Stretch your neck, roll your shoulders and move your back. Cramping or feel a twinge in your calf? Skip a few turns in the rotation in order to take a minute to stretch those tight muscles.

Post Ride Stretching

You made it home, had your shower and post ride nutrition. Time to take a few minutes to reset your muscles. Have a look at ILB contributor Jem’s post ride routine. Post-activity stretching has been shown to reduce Delayed Onset Muscular Soreness (DOMS), increase rates of recovery and improve range of motion in your joints. While there is some debate as to how long you should stretch, anywhere between 15-30 seconds will yield the desired results. There is no debate, however, as to how deep you should stretch: Make sure you are only stretching as deep as it feels comfortable. Any signs of pain, pinching or discomfort signals that it is time to back off a tad. Stretching longer than 60 seconds, or deeper than comfortable is more than likely causing unnecessary trauma.

Mobility & Yoga

Yoga is trendy, but the activity has been around for thousands of years (in comparison, the bicycle is about 200 years old). Yoga provides focus to both static and dynamic stretching, and always adds a component of movement to the practice. The nature of the sport and the position on a bike renders basic balance and maintenance a challenge. As time and intensity on the bike increases, certain muscles are worked to exhaustion, while others become dormant and atrophy. With a very limited range of motion of the legs, and a virtually static upper body, finding movement in other directions, off the bike, is vital to longevity. If yoga isn’t your thing, adding some basic functional stability workouts will help. While yoga stresses mobility and flexibility, functional strength training stresses strength and stability– Both have their place in a monthly cycling training plan. An hour or two a month dedicated to mobility will help you in a few key areas.

Flexibility

80 percent of your aerodynamic drag is caused by your position on the bike (sadly, the $10,000 aero bike will only help you 20% of the way. Imagine how fast you would be if you invested $10,000 in your position and coaching?). Adding a few yoga practices to your training plan will slowly improve your position and gift you a handful of free watts. Wind tunnel testing suggests that a position change can improve your aerodynamic drag by well over 20%. That might be the difference of being able to ride with the A group instead of the B group!

Stability

Yoga and functional strength training will frequently introduce movement in directions other than forward and backward. Forcing you to engage your core and stabilizer muscles will improve bike handling and stability on the bike. The changes are subtle, but feeling more confident into corners, descending and staying in an aerodynamic position when on the front of your club ride are not to be ignored.

Discovering Injuries

Adding a few days of strength and mobility may also reveal weaknesses and muscle imbalances that you didn’t realize you had. Did a certain yoga practice relieve some chronic back pain? Maybe side lunges will suddenly ease knee pain that you recently discovered.

It should be noted that certain types of yoga can be pretty tough on your muscles. A rigorous Vinyasa or a slow, deep stretch Yin class can have your legs feeling pretty slow on the bike the next day. Plan an easy ride for a day after yoga. Taking the time to assess your body off the bike will give you an added boost in confidence and self awareness.

Fascial Therapy

Get on the roller. If you haven’t heard a friend say this, get some new ones. The foam roller is your new best friend. Fascial tissue has been neglected for a long time, and is only making it to the mainstream in recent years.

What is Fascial Tissue

There is a lot of current research on fascial tissue, but it used to be regarded as the sack of tissue that keeps all of your muscles and organs in place. The new understanding of fascia suggests that the membrane act like a coil providing direction, stability and recovery to muscle tissues. Neglecting this vital tissue may be hurting your performance on the bike. A number of recent studies show that fascial release (like getting on a foam roller) reduces injury and increases function of the muscles. When we do exercise, we create scar tissue– Massaging your legs with a foam roller will release built up scar tissue and allow the fascia to realign itself and function more efficiently.

Let’s be honest, we aren’t professional cyclists even if we have a soigneur at home. We are weekend warriors, and have very little time outside of family, and work obligations — But maybe a bit of cross training will pay more dividends than you expect.

Postlude

I come from a background in (American) football. When I started cycling, I came into the sport carrying all of the baggage from football (both physical mass and methodology for training). There was very little focus on mobility and flexibility. In the off season we had a rigorous training plan that included 4 heavy lifting days, interlaced with 2-3 practices per week. The workouts were not functional, and were focused on building a lot of mass. In any case, over the course of my career, I naively assumed that mobility and flexibility would ultimately come at the expense of strength– The reality is just the opposite. Working on mobility, flexibility and stability will only improve your functional performance. 5 years removed from contact sports, I am now clearly seeing the benefits of introducing strength training and yoga throughout the season. I’m getting faster and stronger while simultaneously becoming more stable and much more mobile.

Tips For Riding in Gravel

November 28, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

Road bikes are specialized for speed and hard pavement. Skinny, high-pressure tires are skittish, unstable and can be dangerous in gravel. But it’s a sure bet you’ll encounter gravel from a detour, road construction or a stretch of gravel on your planned route. Prepare yourself for the inevitable by following a few time-tested tips for getting through that rough patch. Your road bike is capable of much more than you think.

Gravel Upsides

Don’t be intimidated by gravel, it has it’s upside, there’s almost no traffic. Gravel roads are twisty, turny, and they often follow natural and beautiful landscapes that make cycling so much fun. You get to visit river beds, ghost towns, campsites and follow links allowing you to access stretches of pavement that you’ve always avoided. Gravel roads are often the best choices for cyclists in the need of a short cut.

Gravel Grinders

Every so often a movement arises in the bike world. While road racing on asphalt has been a seriously competitive sport for nearly a century, some cyclists have discovered that riding bikes on gravel might be fun. As a testament to gravel riding, races and ralleys in certain parts of the country have been springing up. The Grasshopper and Gravel Grinder series are two of them. Some of them are completely on gravel roads, others link asphalt and gravel roads together. It’s a given that you’re probably better off with a gravel-specific bike, gravel grinder participants use nearly every kind of bike, from full-suspension mountain bikes to cyclocross, and full-on road racing feather-weights.

Tire Concerns

Road bikes are made for hard surfaces such as asphalt and concrete. But road bikes are fully capable of riding in gravel. Tires are often the biggest issue. Some cyclists argue that road bike tires can’t handle gravel, that they pinch flat, tear or otherwise go flat. But unless you’re running the lightest, most minimalist racing tires, they hold up to gravel.

Size of Gravel

Generally speaking, when individual pebbles or rocks are smaller, or near the width of your tires, you can still ride. But take note when rocks are bigger than your tires. Riding in this type of gravel is not recommended. You run the risk of cutting your road tires — they’re just not designed for it.

No Float

Mountain bikes or other bikes with fat tires float on gravel. But road bikes don’t float on gravel, they cut into it. More momentum helps you to float to a certain extent, but too much speed can cause you to lose control, hit deep patches, or follow a line in the gravel that you don’t want to follow. Approach a new patch of gravel cautiously, and try to maintain a constant speed.

Gear Down

Most riders will need to gear down to ride gravel. A high cadence with lots of torque is your best bet in situations where the gravel or dirt gets loose. Higher cadence allows you to power through situations where you lose traction, and allows you to stay on top of the gear without having to resort to standing up—which is bad news on gravel.

Scan Ahead

Scan ahead, particularly if you’re descending. Pick a line that you can live with, and stay aware. Gravel can be deceiving, with patches and holes over 6-inches deep. It’s not easy to read gravel surfaces, but scanning ahead gives you the benefit of the doubt, and can make all the difference. Skinny road bike tires sink fast in deep gravel. If that happens, you get an up close, personal look at the gravel.

Thin Layers

Thin layers of gravel might be the most dangerous. Especially if they’re located on hard pack. If you’ve done any serious miles, you’ve probably already hit gravel on pavement. The smallest pebble can cause the front end to wash out on corners. Road bikes on pavement typically lean into corners. On gravel, it’s best to steer into the corner, and try to keep the bike as close to 90-degrees as possible to prevent washing out your front tire.

Relax

Don’t be afraid and become tense. The most important technique is the simplest. When riding on gravel or dirt you’ll likely experience some lateral movement, and feel your bike wander from side to side. This is completely normal. The easiest way to control lateral flow is to relax and ride with it. Make sure to keep your shoulders, arms and hands loose and maintain a normal grip on your bars. Your bike will lose the centrifugal balance from the wheels that you’re so comfortable with on pavement, so use your core strength to maneuver the bike.

Turns and Curves

Avoid sharp turns: the deeper the gravel, the more your front wheel digs in and accentuates any sudden steering movements you might make. This is the one single mistake that causes the most falls in gravel. Consistent, smooth lines, and avoiding sudden movements, keeps you and your bike upright, particularity at higher speeds.

Don’t Be Afraid

There’s no need to avoid riding in gravel. If you do any long distance riding, adventure touring or participate in any overnight cycle events such as Cycle Oregon, the Seattle to Portland, the Alpine loop on the East Coast, or other similar rides, gravel riding is a great skill to have, and a necessary one. Don’ be intimidated by it. Learn to conquer it first, enjoy it and have fun.

If You Get Serious

If you get bit by the gravel riding bug, there’s options for doing it even more enthusiastically. In the last few years, bike builders have introduced gravel-specific models that have the toughness of a mountain bike, the geometry of a road bike and the clearance for big tires. Sometimes also referred to as adventure bikes, they’re better suited to the demands of on and off-road riding, splitting the difference between the two disciplines. Check them out if you get the chance. What have you got to lose.

Using Time as a Guide for Training

October 10, 2015 by Alison Jackson

Training by time is a popular and easy method to use when outlining your cycling training program. The only tool you need is a device that will record your ride time, whether that is a bike computer, a phone app, or a wrist watch. It is an easy and inexpensive way to track your training and is helpful when planning training around all the other activities in your life.

If you have an hour available for training after work you can plan for an intensity that is appropriate for that time block or arrange your day to allow for a 4hr long ride with the confidence that you will complete your training goal before you need to get home for dinner.

Although races are based on a set distance, a rider must plan for the time that it would take to complete the course. An 80 kilometer race might mean a 2hr effort if it is flat and fast, however if the course is a circuit with an 8km climb at 15% every lap the race might take 3hrs or longer depending on how many laps you are expected to do over the climb. The intensity and pace required for a 2hr race is very different from what is required for a 3hr race; therefore understanding what your training effort should feel like for these different scenarios will increase your odds of success.

Using Time Based Training

When using time-based training, you will get a feel for the amount of intensity you can lay down on the pedals for various training efforts no matter the level of fitness you are at. When training by time, it is important to keep in mind what your ultimate goal is.

Here is a guide and a few workout examples on how to manage training intensity based on time:

Time	Intensity	Workout
6-10 sec	Maximal effort; Sprints	Use in warm-up: Ride 10-30min or until warm, 3 x 6sec max sprint
10-30 sec	Maximal effort; Sprints	Sprint practice: Start with 2 sets of 3 x 30sec sprint with 30sec recovery and build to 5 sets, 3min between sets
1-8 min	High; Intervals	Improve VO2max: 4 x 4min on a hill, riding steady-hard in between, work to increase number of repeats
10-30min	Moderate; TT effort or Tempo	TT Tempo effort: 2 x 10min TT effort with full recovery in between increase workout by 2min each week (2 x 12min, 2 x 14min)
30min+	Low; Endurance ride	Long ride 2-5+ hrs

Maximal Effort – Sprints

The highest anaerobic effort will last 6-10 seconds and can translate into a varied range of distances from person to person depending on individual fitness. A 30 second anaerobic sprint might equate to 250m for a male pro but only 100m for a beginner cyclist with their 30lbs. commuter bike.

Sprints are useful for road cyclists who want to beat their competitors to the line.

Moderate and High Intensity – Intervals

Moderate and high intensity intervals will help all cyclists, whether it is powering up a climb, breaking away from the group or just improving overall speed.

Low Intensity – Endurance

If you are planning a century ride or long distance races over 40km then you will want to add a lot of endurance rides in to your training.

Tips For Biking In Large Groups

September 18, 2015 by U.M.

Biking alone is actually much easier than biking in a large group. The tips in this article will list some general rules for biking in large groups for fun and not as a race. Group rides and races are two separate events and require two sets of skills. Keeping that in mind, here are some tips for biking in large groups.

1. Do Not Start A Race

When you begin riding, do not try to muscle your way into a position. Group rides are not the time to strain your muscles and show your strength. You’ll more than likely cause a wreck or make someone upset. Here you are trying to create friends, not enemies.

2. Bar-To-Bar Alignment

The safest formation for a group ride is by pairs (also known as a double paceline). Each pair should line up their handlebars and maintain a speed that is comfortable for the both of them. Pairs that will not tire easily should stay in the front of the group.

3. Moving To A Back Position

If you or your partner start to feel tired, the best thing you can do is move to the back of the pack. This will keep you from slowing down the riders behind you and getting in their way. The best way to accomplish this movement is for the both of you to ease to the side. The riders behind you will ride forward in-between you. You and your partner should then slow your speed and come together again where there is ample room. If you think you’ll have to be careful to get into a space, assume the space is too cramped and dangerous to try to move into. Always err on the side of caution in order to avoid accidents.

4. Being Second Is Equally Important As First

If the front pair moves to the back you have to be prepared to lead the group. If you don’t think you can handle this physically, keep to the middle and back of the pack. You can maintain your position by letting others have the right of way and rejoin the group in front of you.

5. No Gaps!

Good riding formation does not allow for any gaps. Don’t ride tire to tire but don’t leave glaring holes either. If you spot a gap, ease up to fill it. Try not to change your pedaling speed too much as you can throw off the balance of the group.

6. No Sudden Movements

The worst thing you can do when biking in large groups is to make a sudden move or turn. Also, never suddenly change your speed or slam on your brakes. When moving positions, filling in gaps, or steering to avoid road damage and obstructions, always move gradually. This will give the person behind you time to notice and react to your movements.

This tip also requires that you pay close attention to what’s going on around you. Look ahead in the road, follow the movement of the person in front of you but look well ahead of them to see upcoming obstacles, and do not wear headphones in case you need to hear someone shouting a sudden warning.

7. How To Signal

Except in an emergency, group cycling etiquette calls for hand signals over verbal signals. This is because a shout can be easily missed but to someone paying attention, a hand signal is mostly unavoidable. Signals should be simple and agreed upon by all riders before the group starts out.

8. Obstacles

If you’re in the front, your primary responsibility is to spot trouble coming your way. As a rule, if you don’t think the obstacle can cause damage to the people and bikes behind you, don’t bother pointing it out. If the obstacle isn’t immediately in front and can’t be hit when people change positions, don’t bother with it either. Basically, keep an eye out but don’t be annoying.

Biking in large groups requires some practice. If you’re nervous, stick to the back of the pack and really watch the people around you and how they maneuver. Just keep going, keep calm, pay attention to your group and surroundings, and, most importantly, enjoy yourself!

« Previous Page