How to Hang Bikes in Your Garage: 4 Inexpensive Options

October 25, 2023 by Eric Lister

We all love cycling, but figuring out where and how to store your bikes can be a cumbersome task to say the least. They’re quite an elegant piece of hardware when you look at them, but trying to stack multiple rigs side by side is just a huge waste of space. This article will teach you how to hang bikes in your garage with a few inexpensive and easy to use hanging systems.

(Credit: Adobe Stock)

How To Install Bike Hangers & Hooks

Most bike hanging systems are similar in the way that they’re installed. You will need a few simple household tools:

Drill or screwdriver
Drill bit
Screws (often included with the hanger/hook)
Stud finder
Pencil
Tape measure

Step 1: Find your studs

Use the stud finder by holding down the button and gliding it along the wall. When it starts to beep, it means you’re getting closer to a stud. A solid tone indicates that you’re over a stud – make a mark. If you’re having trouble finding studs, or they’re inconveniently placed, you can put a long 2 x 4 piece of lumber across multiple studs, and install your hangers onto that.

Step 2: Measure your spot

Ensure there is enough clearance for your bike whether you’re installing a vertical, horizontal or overhead mounting system. This is a common step that people skip, creating a headache that is easily avoidable. Once you have your spot, hold the hanging system up and mark where the screws will have to go with your pencil.

Step 3: Drill your holes

Using a drill bit slightly smaller than the actual screws, drill holes in your marks where the screws will have to be installed. If you’re not used to installing hardware, this step makes it much easier than trying to go straight into the wall with the screw. If you’re installing on your own, this is definitely a step you do not want to skip.

Step 4: Install hanging system/hook

Align your mounting system with your pre-drilled holes (let’s hope they line up!). Screw the hanger/hook firmly into the wall, but be sure not to overtighten. Especially if you’re using hardware that was included with your hook, the screws may be of a lower quality and liable to break or strip if you stress them too much.

Step 5: Hang your bike

Once your system is attached, the last step is to hang your bike! Get it up there and admire your hard work. You’re basically Tim Allen on Home Improvement, so give yourself a pat on the back!

(Credit: Hallmark Channel)

Bike Hooks & Hanging Systems

Now that you know how to install them, you need to actually pick a hanger out for yourself! Below you’ll find 4 different options, all for less than $30, that each provide a different way of hanging bikes in your garage. Enjoy!

SMARTOLOGY Bike Hooks – 8 Pack ($12.56)

By far the simplest (and least expensive) option, these handy little hooks don’t require any extra hardware. Just pre-drill a hole or work one right into a stud, and in no time you have a sturdy, lifelong hook that goes right through the spokes for an easy vertical hang.

Laxama Vertical Bike Hooks – 4 Pack ($24.99)

With just a little extra effort and slightly more money, you can get these Laxama vertical hooks that include a wall protecting plate and guard rail to help separate one bike from another. Includes screws and drywall plugs for an easy, hassle-free setup!

Gootus Horizontal Foldable Bike Rack ($23.99)

This rack takes us away from the vertical mounts and offers a horizontal option for those with the wall space. If you have a more expensive rider mixed in with kids bikes and other daily rigs, this can be a good option to separate the premium model and give it its own dedicated space!

Rad Cycle Bike Hoist ($20.29)

Now we’re getting fancy! While this overhead pulley system looks intimidating, it is actually well-reviewed for being easy to use and install. It exploits hard to use ceiling space and mounts the bikes overhead. Plus, it has the capacity to carry various other items like canoes and kayaks.

Do You Have Pain From Cycling?

Now that your bikes are hung up, let’s make sure they don’t stay there too long! Biking with an injury is one of the most discouraging things for anyone who loves to ride. That’s one of the reasons why we created Dynamic Cyclist – an online training platform used by thousands of cyclists worldwide. Try us out on a 7-day FREE trial by clicking here!

Gravel Bike Vs. Road Bike: Which One Is Better For You?

October 11, 2023 by Eric Lister

Have you ever wondered what the differences are between a gravel bike vs. road bike? While they’re more alike than different (they’re both bikes, after all), there are unique aspects to both that help them to thrive in their given environments and designed-for purposes. This article will give you the low down on which one might be the best option for you.

(Credit: Adobe Stock)

Differences: Road Bike vs. Gravel Bike

Road bikes are primarily designed for speed and efficiency, while gravel bikes are more robust, and provide a convenient bridge between the road and mountain bike for riders who enjoy (or simply require) the versatility of both. While similar enough to be in a conversation together, they have unique differences that set them apart into their own categories.

Road Bikes

Road bikes are typically lighter in weight and less padded in material than gravel bikes. This is a result of their limited off-road capacity, with more emphasis on getting the rider from point A to point B as fast as possible. They’re designed to reduce wind and road resistance through aerodynamic features like a more aggressive riding profile, reduced wheelbase, and thinner tires.

5 Unique Characteristics of Road Bikes

Constructed of lightweight materials like carbon fiber, high-quality steel or aluminum
Thin, narrow, high-pressure tires that reduce road resistance; more speed with less effort
Drop handlebars to emphasize low-profile, aerodynamic riding positions
Engineered to be stiff in key areas to increase power transfer from the pedals
Typically have a horizontal top tube and shorter wheelbase to reduce wind drag

(Credit: Adobe Stock)

Gravel Bikes

Gravel bikes are built with a little more grit. They’re designed to handle the scrappier elements of an off-road trail without worrying too much about things like speed. They are still lightweight, but are often a little more robust to handle the shocks and vibrations of trail riding. A more upright riding posture and wider tires are other features that put these bikes into a separate class.

5 Unique Characteristics of Gravel Bikes

Frames that range in stiffness and are more durable than road bikes
Equipped with multiple mounting points for racks, bags, bottles, etc.
Wider tires for stability and traction on uneven and/or rough terrain
Lower bottom bracket which lowers the centre of gravity for more stability
Typically come with a wider range of gears to accommodate technical trails and hills

(Credit: Adobe Stock)

Which One Is Right For You?

The chief separator between these two classes of bikes is their function. Costs are similar across the different tiers of performance available on the market based on brand, component/material quality, etc. So it really comes down to what you’re going to use the bike for and where. Consider these three questions when making your decision.

What will you use the bike for immediately and in the future?
- A gravel bike can survive on the road, but a road bike will have a hard time holding up on the trails. Any desire to be off-road might have you leaning more towards a gravel bike.
Are you focused on training for a cycling race or triathlon?
- If your racing aspirations are serious, you need to start specializing in equipment at some point. A gravel bike simply won’t cut it when it comes to racing, and it won’t give you an honest representation of where you sit in the field.
What is your preferred riding style and comfort level?
- Road bikes are designed for a more aggressive riding position, which can be uncomfortable. Gravel bikes often have a more relaxed and upright geometry, which can be more comfortable for full-day adventures or less competitive riding.

Road & Gravel Bike Accessories

No matter which one you decide to go with, you’re going to want to supe it up and make it your own! Convenience, style, protection…that’s what you’ll find with the hand selected accessories for both road and gravel bikes we have listed below.

Road Bike Accessories

BV Bicycle Strap-On Saddle Bag

Benefits: Carry your phone, keys, and wallet without feeling bogged down. Attaches under your seat for easy to access and discreet convenience.

SY Bicycle Computer

Benefits: Have your speed and distance calculated automatically and in real time. Good for those who are taking their training seriously.

Gravel Bike Accessories

ROCKBROS Top Tube Bag

Benefits: Sturdy, waterproof bag that can handle everything you throw at it. Easy access to your valuables without even getting off your bike.

All Mountain Style High-Impact Frame Protection Kit

Benefits: When you invest in a nice bike, you want to protect it as best you can. This easy to apply frame kit is a cheap option that allows you to prolong the life of your frame.

How to Treat & Avoid Shoulder Pain While Cycling

April 12, 2023 by Eric Lister

In cycling, the shoulder doesn’t get challenged in many ways, apart from the load we bear as a result of leaning on the handlebars. Many of us have experienced shoulder pain while cycling, and it can be largely due to a number of factors, including the inadequate stimulation of all the tissues that surround, support, and move this complex joint.

(Image credit: anut21ng/Adobe Stock)

Shoulder injuries are one of the most common gradual onset injuries in recreational cyclists. This means that they develop slowly over time, usually as a result of the overuse of some muscles to the neglect of others. It often starts as a dull, aching sensation that gets worse with further use, as opposed to a sharp, acute pain that we really only see as a result of falls and accidents.

It’s important to know that the most mobile joint in the human body is the shoulder joint. Several bones, muscles and other tissues have influence on its structural integrity and movement capacity, which can make the causes of non-specific shoulder pain from cycling hard to identify. However, there are some common issues cyclists face simply due to the nature of the sport.

Poor Bike Fit & Prolonged Riding

Making sure your bike is fitted properly to your body is always one of the first things you should check when addressing pain. This is because as cyclists we stay more or less in the same positions for long periods of time, making us incredibly susceptible to overuse injuries and muscle imbalances.

If your handlebars are too low or too far away from you, it will force you to lean more forward, and you’ll resultantly have to support more of your bodyweight over the handlebars than you would otherwise. Think of an incline pushup (where your hands are elevated on something), and how the pushup gets harder as you move your hands lower towards the floor.

The constant weight bearing on the arms has a significant effect on the shoulder, and can often result in something called shoulder impingement syndrome. Pain when lifting the arms, pain while trying to reach overhead or behind you, pain in the front/side of the shoulder, arm weakness and stiffness are all symptoms of shoulder impingement syndrome.

Two of your four rotator cuff muscles (infraspinatus, supraspinatus) have tissues that pass between the humerus (upper arm bone) and acromion (top outer part of the shoulder blade). Constant load bearing on the arms, like you see in cycling, can compress, rub against, pinch or otherwise impinge upon these tissues, resulting in the symptoms previously listed.

(Image credit: VectorMine/Adobe Stock)

How to Fix It

Get a professional bike fitting: Find a local shop that can do it in person or use an AI app like MyVeloFit to do it yourself at home. Either way, ensuring your bike is fitted to your body will immediately reduce your likelihood of injury and increase comfort while riding.
Reduce cycling intensity: If you are dealing with some sort of shoulder impingement syndrome, you can see, just by its nature, how it’s not a problem you can simply work through. The body needs time to let this irritating condition settle while you work on creating more balance throughout the joint (next step).
Strengthen the rotator cuff muscles: Cycling doesn’t challenge the shoulder in many ways, which is a disaster for shoulder health. It needs complex stimulation from a variety of exercises. Having a well-balanced program that trains the shoulder from all angles and in all positions is key to avoiding shoulder pain from cycling.

Faulty Breathing, Tense Neck & Shoulders

These three things are all related, and commonly found in the average cyclist. Because of the intimate and complex relationship between the humerus (upper arm), clavicle (collarbone), scapula (shoulder blade) and all their attaching tissues (which collectively form the shoulder joint), compromising any one of them can negatively influence the others.

This x-ray shows the complex arrangement of bones that meet to form the shoulder joint. (Image credit: Nut/Adobe Stock)

Cyclists are prone to inefficient breathing and excessive stress on the neck through their positioning on the bike. The head juts forward and back the more you bend over on the bike, this can place a load of 60+ pounds on your cervical (neck) spine, because the head’s weight gets multiplied every inch it moves forward in front of the body.

A forward folded position can also inhibit movement of the diaphragm, your primary respiratory muscle. This encourages you to breathe through the chest, which strains small secondary respiratory muscles in your neck responsible for lifting the ribs. Because cycling is such a cardio-intensive activity, this type of breathing can cause significant irritation.

Both of these things can carry over into daily life, and both can contribute to shoulder pain while cycling. By compromising the head, neck and upper back through poor breathing and positioning, the shoulder will have no choice but to try and compensate. This is one example of how shoulder pain is not always directly linked to the shoulder itself, but its surrounding parts.

How to Fix It

Strengthen the neck extensors & upper back: The muscles that pull your head back, as well as extend (flatten) your upper back, tend to get very weak if all you do is cycle. This is because they are constantly being stretched out on the bike. This article will show you what exercises to do and why they work for less neck and shoulder pain while riding.
Practice diaphragmatic breathing: This means breathing into your belly. Most neck and head pain in cyclists can be attributed to faulty chest/neck breathing patterns. A good exercise is lying back over an exercise ball and taking long deep breaths. This stretches the abdominals while stimulating the diaphragm and forcing it to be more active.
Relax the neck: Stretching the neck muscles prior to and even during your ride can force them to relax while you focus on breathing more into your belly. Being conscious of how much tension you’re holding in your shoulders will also be beneficial. Try to catch yourself while riding if your shoulders get shrugged up close to the ears.

Note on Nutrition & Cycling Shoulder Pain

Many people fail to consider the role of the organs when it comes to shoulder pain in cyclists. The phrenic nerve is a major nerve that originates from the third to fifth cervical spine nerves (C3-C5) in the neck. It descends through the thorax (chest cavity) and travels between the lungs, in front of the heart and along the surface of the diaphragm.

You have two phrenic nerves, one going down the left and right side of the body. If the stomach, which is on the left side of the body, gets too distended or inflamed, it can press on the diaphragm and irritate the left phrenic nerve. Similarly on the right side, if the liver becomes enlarged, it can press on the right phrenic nerve via the diaphragm.

When these tissues become irritated or inflamed, they can send pain signals to the spinal cord through the sensory fibers of the phrenic nerve. In the spinal cord, the incoming pain signals from the phrenic nerve can activate nerve cells (neurons) that also receive sensory input from other areas of the body, including the shoulder. This is called referred pain.

Attention should be paid to the diet of a cyclist who is experiencing shoulder pain, especially if physio/massage interventions are proving ineffective. Stomach problems can contribute to left shoulder pain/weakness, and liver problems can do the same for the right shoulder. Common irritants like dairy, gluten and alcohol should be looked at as initial culprits.

Phrenic nerve, highlighted in yellow. This is a frontal view. The diaphragm is the large dome-shaped muscle at the bottom. Under the elevated right side would sit the liver, and under the left side would sit the stomach. (Image credit: vesalii/Adobe Stock)

Eliminate Cycling Shoulder Pain!

By incorporating a well-rounded strength, mobility, flexibility and injury-prevention plan into your training, you can greatly reduce the risk of injury to your shoulders and every other part of your body. That is exactly what the programming at Dynamic Cyclist is designed to do. Try us out for 7-days FREE by clicking here!

How to Fix a Flat Bike Tire: Steps & Procedures

March 29, 2023 by Eric Lister

Seldom will you come across a more frustrating and annoying problem than the sudden deflation of your bicycle tire while out on a ride. A sure way to mitigate the stress of this inevitable situation is by familiarizing yourself with your bike and learning how to fix a flat all on your own.

While it may be intimidating at first, a few practice run-throughs of the steps involved can make all the difference when you have to do it in an unfamiliar environment, perhaps tired from the journey, or even after a resultant spill or injury.

A saying, attributed commonly to the Greek poet Archilochus, could be most appropriately referred to in our preparation:

“We don’t rise to the level of our expectations, we fall to the level of our training.”

So let us train properly! And learn one of the most fundamental skills any cyclist should know, one with the potential to get you home in any variety of sticky situations anytime out there on the road or trails.

(Image credit: Andrei/Adobe Stock)

Things to Carry With You

The following items should be carried with you so you’re prepared to fix a flat on your bicycle at any time in any place:

Spare inner tube (same size as your tire)
Patch repair kit
Tire levers
Pump

Once you have these items, the next step is learning where and how to use them. Here is how to fix a flat, step-by-step, using the tools above.

Step 1: Remove the Wheel

Depending on whether it is your front or rear wheel with the flat will vary this step a little bit. Regardless of which one, it will be easier to place the bike upside down resting on the saddle and handlebars so you don’t have to worry about balancing it while working.

Front Wheel

On modern bikes, the front wheel usually has a quick release lever that can simply be opened to free the front tire from the forks it sits in. It can also be helpful to release the brakes by looking for a caliper lever up near the top of the forks and opening it. This allows more room between the tire and the brake pads, making it easier to remove the tire.

Rear Wheel

A little more tricky, but easy to master with just a bit of practice.

Start by putting your gears to the smallest cog (gets the chain out of the way)
Then, as with the front wheel, open up the brake pads by using the release lever
Many wheels today have a quick release axle system, if this is present on your bike, you’ll have to open the lever to release the wheel
Pull the derailleur gently backwards to free the wheel
Remove the wheel and be sure it is free from the chain

These processes can vary depending on your style of bike, so be sure to refer to specific instructions or follow-along videos, and practice the procedure(s) prior to going out on the road.

(Image credit: Novak/Adobe Stock)

Step 2: Deflate & Remove the Inner Tube

To do this, first deflate the tire by locating the valve. Depending on whether you have a Schrader or Presta valve, the instructions to do this are slightly different:

To deflate a Schrader valve, simply press the small pin in the center of the valve.
To deflate a Presta valve, unscrew the top cap on the valve and then press down.

It’s not necessary to completely deflate the tire, we just want to create separation and provide room to help remove the tube.

This is where your tire levers will come in handy. Start directly opposite of your tire valve to avoid damaging the stem, and proceed to use the long end of one lever to pry the tire bead overtop of the rim. You can then anchor it to a spoke while you insert another lever two to three spokes down, and work the remainder of the tire out of the rim.

Pull the valve stem out of the rim, and remove the tube.

(Image credit: Maxky/Adobe Stock)

Step 3: Find the Problem

If you just plan to replace the tube with a new one, you can skip to step five, otherwise, we need to locate the problem so we can fix it. It may be obvious like a protruding object, or more minute like a pinhole rupture. Remove any visible insults to the tube, and if you can’t find where it’s leaking, you’ll have to do some more thorough investigation.

Two of the simplest methods to find the opening are as follows: Inflate the tube so it holds some shape, then cycle it slowly through water while looking for bubbles. You can also squeeze the tube gently as you rotate it near your ear, listening for any air that is escaping. Once you find the culprit, be sure to mark it so you don’t lose it while you prepare your patch.

(Image credit: Bulent/Adobe Stock)

Step 4: Patching

As mentioned in step three, determine whether it’s better to replace the old tube entirely. If there are multiple patches or the tube seems to be deteriorating because of age and frailty, more repairs may only further decrease its integrity. However, sometimes you don’t have a tube and don’t have a choice! Here’s how to patch your leaking one:

Patch kits will often contain a small piece of sandpaper, use this to rough up the leaking area for better adhesion of the patch.
Apply the glue generously to the affected area, give it a moment to set.
Place the patch firmly over the puncture, press down to help with adhesion.

(Image credit: Ole/Adobe Stock)

Step 5: Replace the Inner Tube

Inflate the tube to the point where it holds its shape but is still flexible and easy to maneuver, make sure it holds its air. Insert the valve stem into the valve hole on the rim. Starting from the valve, tuck the tube completely inside the tire all the way around.

Once the tube is inside, begin tucking the tire bead back over the rim. Use your hands to work around the whole perimeter, you may need to use the tire levers for the last bit. Be sure not to snag the inner tube with levers or by pinching it against the rim throughout this step. After you have the tire together, inflate it to the appropriate pressure.

(Image credit: Tatonka/Adobe Stock)

Step 6: Reinstall the Wheel

For the front tire, simply set it back into the forks and securely tighten the quick release lever. If it’s the rear wheel:

Position the top part of the chain over the smallest sprocket on the cassette.
Lower the wheel axle into the dropouts while moving the derailleur out of the way.
Securely tighten the quick release and close the brake caliper lever/reconnect the brakes if necessary.

It’s best to watch a video of this being done on your specific model of bike to get a better idea of how to do this part.

Step 7: Final Checks & Go!

Go over all the parts that have been manipulated to ensure everything is snug and back where it’s supposed to be. Double check that your tire pressure is good, check that your brakes are working, and make sure all levers are closed and tucked away into their riding positions. After that, you’re ready to go!

(Image credit: Clement C/Adobe Stock)

Again, be sure to practice this procedure several times at home so you can build the confidence to do it when the situation occurs. Fixing a bicycle flat is one of the most essential skills for any cyclist, and you’re well on your way to knowing how to do it yourself!

Thank you for taking the time to learn with us, and we wish you safe travels!

Everything You Need to Know About Bike Tire Valve Types & Which One to Choose

March 13, 2023 by Eric Lister

Replacing a tube, changing your tires, buying a pump…these are all routine tasks for any road cyclist or mountain biker. And if you’re new to cycling, working on your rig for the first time, trying out a new brand, or switching disciplines within the sport, you’re bound to be introduced at one point or another to the different types of bike tire valves.

Today’s article will teach you about the differences between the three most common types of bike tire valves. They’ve evolved over the years and each have their own benefits, drawbacks, and specific purposes.

Bike Tire Valve Types

Knowing what valve(s) you’re working with will help you be prepared for repairs, maintenance, and helping out a buddy midway through a troublesome ride. You’ll be able to identify each valve and ensure you have the proper equipment to tackle the job. Let’s jump in.

Schrader Valve

Schrader valve. (Credit: todja/Adobe Stock)

The Schrader valve is the most common valve type, also known as the American valve, named after its inventor, August Schrader. It was designed in 1891 and patented in the United States in 1893.

It is a sturdy valve type found on almost all cars and motorcycles. It has a wider diameter and can hold higher air pressures than other valves, making it easy to fill up at gas stations and suitable for mountain bikes or other heavy-duty suspension systems. The Schrader valve has a spring-loaded pin that closes the valve when the pump is removed, ensuring a secure seal.

Schrader valves are common in agriculture, hospitals, firefighting, and a wide range of other industries. In cycling, apart from road bikes, the Schrader valve can be found on most kid’s bikes, cruisers, hybrids, and mountain bikes.

Presta Valve

Presta valve. (Credit: Narayan/Adobe Stock)

The Presta valve is a narrower and lighter valve type. It was invented by Frenchman Etienne Sclaverand, and was initially known as the Sclaverand valve. Today, it is also known as the French valve or a high-pressure valve.

It is commonly found on road bikes and high-performance bikes, including some mountain bikes. It is designed for high-pressure tires and can hold up to 120 PSI. The Presta valve has a threaded stem that screws into the rim, creating an airtight seal. It also has a lock nut that secures the valve stem to prevent air from leaking.

The hole on a bike tire valve is usually the weakest point on the rim. But because the Presta valve has a smaller opening, it can maintain strength in the wheel and support the razor thin tires fitted onto top-of-the-line racing bikes.

Woods (Dunlop) Valve

Woods (Dunlop) valve. (Credit: rdnzl/Adobe Stock)

The Dunlop valve was originally invented by a Scottish inventor by the name of John Boyd Dunlop in the late 1800’s. It was however quickly improved upon by a man named C.H. Woods, who made it easier to inflate and maintain than the original. This is why the Dunlop valve is now often referred to as the Woods valve.

Originally, this valve type used a tight rubber sleeve to regulate airflow. This sleeve unfortunately would break down overtime and took substantial air pressure to be forced open when pumping. Modern Woods valves use an internal ball bearing or spring-loaded rubber plug that is easily unsaddled with pumping.

Woods valves are not often seen in North America, and are more common in Europe, across Asia, and developing countries around the world. Their durable stem and easy to perform maintenance make them popular where resources are more scarce.

Bike Tire Pumps & Valve Adapters

Knowing what valves you’re dealing with or may come across is one thing, the next step is ensuring you have the right equipment to service them if and when the time comes.

Bike Tire Pumps

There are four main types of pumps that are commonly used in the sport of cycling, they are:

Floor Pumps
Mini Pumps
Frame Pumps
CO2 Inflators

Each of these have their own unique advantages and disadvantages.

Cyclist using a mini pump. (Credit: Odua Images/Adobe Stock)

Floor pumps are the most durable and one of the fastest ways to inflate your tires, but are often too large and cumbersome to carry while riding.

Mini pumps take longer to inflate your tires and can have some pressure limitations, but are small enough to carry in your jersey pocket or hydration pack.

Frame pumps attach easily to your frame and come in different sizes that offer varying inflation speeds, however some don’t like having the extra hardware hanging off their bike.

CO2 inflators are compact and extremely efficient when it comes to inflating your tires. The biggest drawback is their limited use and disposability.

Depending on the brand and model, each of these pump types can be found to accommodate both Schrader and Presta valves, the two most common bike tire valve types. Some will come equipped to serve both, while others you may need to fit with a valve extender/reducer or adapter.

Bike Tire Valve Adapters

Bike tire valve adapters are small, but essential, components that allow you to use one type of valve with another. Especially if you ride with others, they’re good to have on hand should you or your partners need help on the side of the road.

Presta to Schrader Adapter

Converts a Presta valve to a Schrader valve, allowing you to inflate a tire with a Presta valve using only a Schrader pump.

Schrader to Presta Adapter

Ideal when using a Presta pump to inflate a tire with a Schrader valve.

Presta Valve Extender

Attach a small metal or plastic tube to a Presta valve with a Presta valve extender, lengthening the valve above the rim for easy access with a pump head.

Schrader Valve Extender

When a Schrader valve is too short to reach the pump head or buried deep in the rim, you can use this extender to enhance the valve beyond the rim’s surface.

Valve Reducers

For those with a Schrader pump and a tire with a smaller Presta valve, valve reducers can convert the Schrader pump head to fit the smaller valve diameter.

Left to right: Presta, Dunlop/Woods, Schrader. (Credit: NilsZ/Adobe Stock)

Being prepared for those inevitable roadside flats starts with knowing what kind of tire you’re riding and how to service it. Having the right equipment and fittings on hand can turn a would-be-day-wrecker into a quick and simple fix!

Understanding the different bike tire valve types will help you get to know your bike better, and make you more confident going out on long rides where the ability to be self-sufficient becomes ever more important.

We hope this article has been helpful on your journey to better, stronger, pain (and headache) free cycling!

How To Lubricate Your Mountain Bike (A Step By Step Guide)

February 16, 2023 by Eric Lister

Mountain biking is an exciting and challenging outdoor activity that combines fitness, adventure, and nature in one. It’s a sport that requires a high level of skill, endurance, and physical strength, and is enjoyed by millions of people around the world. Whether you’re riding through challenging terrain, crossing streams, or soaring down steep descents, mountain biking is a sport that offers a unique and exciting experience.

However, with all the demands of the sport, it’s essential to maintain your mountain bike properly to ensure it lasts a long time and performs at its best. One of the most critical aspects of mountain bike maintenance is lubrication. By keeping your bike well-lubricated, you can reduce friction, prevent wear and tear, and ensure that all the components work properly.

Today we’re going to guide you through the steps on how to lubricate your mountain bike, including the benefits of lubrication and the difference between grease and lube. Whether you’re a seasoned mountain biker or just starting out, this article will help you keep your bike in top condition.

Esther Pueyo/Adobe Stock

Lube Vs. Grease: Which is Better?

When it comes to lubricating your mountain bike, there are two main options: lube and grease. Both have their own benefits and disadvantages, and choosing the right one can be confusing.

Lube is a thin liquid that is applied to the bike’s components to reduce friction and prevent wear. It is specifically designed for bikes and is formulated to withstand the demands of cycling. Lube is easy to apply and spreads evenly over the surface, making it ideal for lubricating chains and other moving parts.

Grease, on the other hand, is a thicker substance that is designed to provide a long-lasting barrier between metal surfaces. It can be used for lubricating pivot points and other high-stress areas where erosion between heavy parts is likely to occur. Grease is also resistant to water, making it a good option for lubricating in wet conditions.

Both lube and grease have their own unique benefits, and are useful in different situations. By understanding the differences between the two, you can choose the best option for your mountain bike to help create an effortless and hassle-free riding experience.

Parts of a mountain bike (how to lubricate your mountain bike)

Parts of a mountain bike. Credit: www.schoolworkerhelper.net

Reference the above diagram as we now delve into the steps required to make sure your mountain bike stays lubricated, increasing the chances that it will perform at a high level for years to come!

1. Preparing the Bike for Lubrication: Cleaning

Before lubricating, it’s essential to clean the bike to remove any dirt, grime, or debris that may have accumulated on its parts. Use a degreaser to clean the chain, derailleurs, and cassette. A simple mixture of warm water and dish soap will do the trick for the rest of the bike. Make sure to dry the components thoroughly before moving on to the next step (water and lubricant don’t mix!).

2. Lubricating the Critical Component: The Chain

The chain is the most integral component to lubricate on your mountain bike. Apply a few drops of bike-specific lubricant to each link and work the chain back and forth to spread it evenly. Wipe off any excess lubricant to prevent attracting dirt and grime.

3. Smooth Shifting and Pedaling: Derailleurs and Cassette

The derailleurs and cassette can also benefit from a drop or two of lubricant. Apply the lubricant to the moving parts and pivot points, being careful not to get any lubricant on the brake rotors or rubber components where traction is necessary.

4. Reducing Friction at Pivot Points

Pivot points, such as the suspension pivots, can benefit from lubricant as well. These points see a lot of movement, so it’s essential to keep them transitioning smoothly to reduce friction and prolong the life of your bike.

5. Ensuring Optimal Operation: Lubricating Dry Spots

Check the rest of your bike for any dry spots that may need lubrication, such as the brake and shifter cables. Adding lubricant to these areas can contribute to the efficient and long-lasting use of your bicycle.

Tim Foster/Unsplash

It’s recommended to lubricate your mountain bike every few rides, or at least once every three months, depending on the frequency and intensity of your use. In wet and muddy conditions, it’s a good idea to lubricate after each ride to prevent corrosion.

Lubricating your mountain bike is a simple and effective way to prolong its lifespan and get the most out of its performance capabilities. As part of a regular maintenance schedule, you can mitigate costly part repairs and service fees, and focus more on the sport you’ve invested in and grown to love.

How To Choose a SUV Bike Rack

January 26, 2023 by Guest Post

As cyclists, we love the sport. Apart from providing freedom, the simple two-wheel bicycle offers physical and mental health benefits such as relieving stress and maintaining a healthy weight.

Cycling can be an expensive sport, and with bikes costing thousands of dollars, cyclists need to ensure their bikes are secure. Enter the SUV bike rack. Fortunately, these bike racks won’t break the bank like many other cycling accessories. Moreover, choosing the best bike rack for an SUV is critical not only to the safety of your bike but also to the size of the hole in your wallet.

So how exactly do you choose an SUV bike rack? And are there different types of bike racks for SUVs? You bet there are. When choosing the best SUV bike rack, you need to consider a few factors.

So without further adieu, let’s take a look at the different types of bike racks and some of the important factors to consider.

Important Factors To Consider When Purchasing A SUV Bike Rack

Generally speaking, the two most frequently asked questions that pop up are how often and how far do you intend to travel with your bikes? Next up, you need to tackle the question of the type of bikes you have and how many bikes your SUV bike rack will have to carry.

Are these questions really necessary to answer? YES. Taking the time to answer these fundamental questions will not only save you money but a big headache later on.

Other factors to consider:

Does your bike have thru-axles?
Do you own heavy mountain bikes?
Do you own light road bikes?
Are they expensive bikes made from carbon?

As you’ll see, there are several types of bike racks for SUVs, so it’s essential to consider how you want to carry your valuable bikes. Do you prefer to carry them on an SUV bike roof rack or a no hitch bike rack for an SUV?

One additional factor that many cyclists don’t consider is the simple fact that most bikes are entirely different in terms of weight, style, dimensions and price. Because of this, you need to do plenty of thorough research on the many SUV bike rack brands on the market.

Simply put, you’ll probably want to invest in a quality SUV bike rack that doesn’t cost a third of one of your Pirelli P-Zeros.

Types Of SUV Bike Racks

Before we look at the best bike racks for SUVs, let’s look at the types of racks available. Each rack serves a different purpose, so it’s important to know which rack serves what purpose.

Roof Bike Racks

SUV roof racks are remarkably adaptable and offer some of the best safety for your pricey bikes. That being said, they tend to be a bit more costly than other SUV bike racks.

Hitch Bike Racks

As the name suggests, the hitch mount bike rack fits directly into your trailer hitch. These bike racks are pretty common among bike enthusiasts as they are generally cheaper and still provide a decent amount of safety compared to a no hitch bike rack for SUV’s.

Trunk Bike Racks

Trunk bike racks attach to the trunk of your car via a series of unsightly straps and hooks. These SUV bike racks are cheap but tend to move around during travel, damaging your bikes.

Truck-Bed Bike Racks

These types of bike racks are perfect for SUVs and are incredibly versatile. They are easy to install and can also carry boats, mini-bikes and ride-on mowers.

The Top Five Bikes Racks For SUVs

Saris Bike Rack

Price: $215.93

Boasting one of the lightest yet strongest frames, the Saris Bike rack utilizes an “arc design,” enabling bikes to be transported without hitting each other. Made in the USA, this bike rack is perfect for your SUV and can carry two bicycles. Amazingly this SUV bike rack suits 90% of the most popular cars on the market.

Things We Liked

Sleek and stylish design
Rust resistant
Lightweight
Robust and durable

Things To Consider

Only comes in black

Young 2-Bike Rack Hitch Mount Platform Style

Price: $249.99

The Young 2 bike rack is safe and secure, comes with a 1-year warranty and can hold up to 200lbs. Not only does the Young 2 SUV bike rack use a tilt-back design, but it also folds away easily, saving you plenty of space. The padded hooks are an excellent feature that secures your bike without scratching it.

Things We Liked

One-year warranty
200lbs carrying capacity
Tilt-back design
Folds away

Things To Consider

Not the best-looking SUV bike rack; that said, it does a great job

KAC K2 2” Hitch Mounted Rack 2-Bike Platform Style Carrier

Price: $359.99

The KAC K2 is a platform-type, hitch-mounted SUV bike rack that allows you to transport 2 bikes. The KAC K2 simply attaches to your 2-inch trailer hitch for a secure ride. With a total carrying capacity of 120 lbs, it provides more than enough durability to give you peace of mind on the highway.

Things We Liked

Limited lifetime warranty
Tilt-action to access your trunk easily
Easy-to-follow assembly instructions
Supports even the widest E-Bikes

Things To Consider

Slightly on the pricey side but well worth the money

Thule EasyFold XT 2 Hitch Bike Rack

Price: $999.95

Undoubtedly the cream of the crop in the SUV bike rack category, the Thule EasyFold is the premium option for cyclists who want a safe and secure rack with all the bells and whistles. Thule is one of the industry’s most reputable brands and has built quality bike racks since 1962.

With easy trunk access via a smart foot pedal and a fully foldable design, the Thule bike rack screams style while remaining functional. Best of all, it requires no tools to assemble.

Things We Liked

Reputable brand
Quality build materials
Rust resistant
Sleek design
Functional
No tools needed to assemble

Things To Consider

Price; but as they say, if you want the best, sometimes you’ve got to pay

ROCKBROS Suction Cup Bike Rack

Price: $238.18

The ROCKBROS Suction rack takes a unique approach when it comes to securing your bikes. As the name suggests, the rack uses suction cups and attaches easily to your roof. The cups are made of soft yet highly-durable rubber, so they won’t damage your car paint.

The ROCKBROS suction rack comes with an easy-to-install video that guides users through an easy 5-step installation process. All ROCKBROS bike racks come with a one-year guarantee.

Things We Liked

Easy-to-install
Super lightweight
Sleek design
Affordable
Fits all types of vehicles

Things To Consider

Can be a bit fiddly

That’s A Wrap

So there you have it, everything you need to know before purchasing an SUV bike rack. Remember, several factors should be considered before you pull the trigger and spend your hard-earned cash.

Factors such as:　

How often you’ll be using the bike rack?
What type of bikes do you own?
How many bikes do you have?
Do your bikes have thru-axels? And, of course,
Your budget

Take your time, explore all the bike rack options, and I’m sure you’ll find the right SUV bike rack for you and your beloved bikes.

Happy biking!!

How to Correctly Adjust Bike Seat Height (And Why)

January 12, 2023 by Eric Lister

Having a proper bike seat height on your rig is one of the most important parts of your bike fit overall. You risk discomfort, pain and the eventual likelihood of injury if you decide to overlook it, and may even attribute such problems to other facets of your training and lifestyle; missing the source of them altogether.

A number of factors are going to be at play including your specific upper/lower limb proportions, the mobility of your tissues, and your functional operating output in general. It might sound like a bunch of fancy nonsense, but it really all just boils down to the unique composite and capacity of your human body.

levgen Skrypko/Adobe Stock

Here is what’s going to happen, we’re going to give you some simple tips and guidelines to adjust your bike seat height the correct way. Then, we’re going to hash out the problems that come with adjusting your saddle improperly. This will, for some of you (we hope), provide answers to pains that have been recurrent or chronic throughout your cycling career.

Arming yourself with the knowledge to address problems when they arise allows you to confidently push yourself in your training and competitions. Ride long enough and you’ll get hurt, you’ll feel pain, that’s just the way it is. Better to know where you can start looking, and be self-sufficient in your recovery, than to pedal away in ignorance and be at the mercy of countless practitioners because you have nowhere else to turn.

Proper Bike Seat Height

There are a couple of handy indicators that you can easily test and look for to tell if your saddle is the right height for your body. These signs should be looked for with a partner while you’re sitting on the bike while it (the bike) is in an upright position, using a support (such as a wall) to anchor yourself, and squeezing the front brakes to remain stationary.

Slight Knee Bend

When you’re at the bottom of your pedal stroke (6 o’clock position) there should be a slight bend in the knee, approximately 25°-30° for most people. Any more, and you’re going to place excessive loads on the anterior part of the knee. Any less, and you’ll start to overextend the leg and heighten the injury risk to the back of the knee and hip extensor muscles.

1-2 cm Heel Drop

Again, at the 6 o’clock position, but this time with your knee locked out, your heel should drop 1-2 cm below the pedal. If you can’t fully straighten your leg, you’ll have to raise the seat. If you lock out your leg but are still struggling to reach the pedal, or your heel sits even with/above the pedal, the seat will have to be lowered.

Heel Pedal Test

Put your heels on the pedals and go through a full pedal stroke. If your saddle height is properly adjusted, your knee will lock out when going through the bottom position, and your heels will stay in contact with the pedal. If your knee bends at the bottom, the saddle should be raised, and if your heels lose contact at the bottom, the saddle should be lowered.

These are a few great ways to find your saddle height with the help of a friend or by using your phone to record yourself riding. More comprehensive methods are available, but these are by far the most economical. Let’s take a look at what can happen if saddle height is ignored or just improperly aligned, and the effect it can have on a person’s body.

Ljupko Smokovski/Adobe Stock

Improper Bike Seat Height

Having your saddle too low or too high is going to place excessive loads on different parts of your body. One of the reasons a bike fit is so important is because the bike is not a natural mechanism in and of itself. It’s man-made, but we are not bike-made. These are odd positions for us to be in in the first place, so doing it in the most optimal and efficient way is important due to the prolonged and repetitive nature of our sport.

Saddle Too Low

Knee pain is one of the most common problems amongst cyclists, and having a saddle that’s too low can be a significant contributor to it. When your bike seat height is too low it shortens the range of motion of your knees, and forces you to initiate your pedal stroke from a less than optimal position that places excessive load on your patella (knee cap). This can lead to irritation and pain in the patellar and quadriceps tendons (on, below and above the front of the knee).

A low saddle will also compress your hips and shorten the rectus femoris and psoas muscles which make up the majority of your hip flexors. This leads to chronic tightness and fatigue and can actually pull your pelvis forward into what’s called anterior pelvic tilt, often a key player in the low back pain commonly experienced by cyclists.

The structures on your lower leg are also going to suffer significantly from a lower than optimal bike seat. Because your knee won’t be able to extend properly, the body will naturally look for more room in the ankle joint. At the bottom of your pedal stroke, the ankle will remain in an excessively dorsiflexed (toes pulled up towards the shin) position. This shortens a large muscle on the front of your shin called the tibialis anterior, and can lead to the shin pain often described as “shin splints”.

Your upper body can also be compromised, because having a seat that is too low or too far back will have you reaching inefficiently for the handlebars. The body will resort to rounding the back and shoulders to optimally balance its weight over the bike, and can be a wonderful recipe for a weak, painful back, tight chest, inefficient breathing patterns and terrible posture.

Saddle Too High

While having the saddle too low can really affect the front of your knee, having it too high can injure the back just as well. If you’re reaching for the pedals and then weight bearing with a completely locked out or even hyperextended knee, you’re putting a huge load on the internal ligaments of the knee, particularly the ACL and PCL. The hamstring tendons and upper part of the calf can also be overstretched and affected by these locked out and loaded positions.

The hips will tend to rock back and forth if your saddle height is too high, and is a common sign to look out for. The reason being is because you will rotate, tilt and sway the pelvis to try and reach the pedal on every stroke. This can contribute to lower back pain and hip pain in any cyclist who doesn’t address it promptly.

Because you won’t be able to optimally generate power through your upper leg with a high saddle, the lower leg may try to compensate, which will result in fatigue and overuse of the gastrocnemius (calf), soleus (deeper calf muscle) and tibialis anterior (shin muscle). The achilles tendon will take the brunt of all these contractions, and can eventually develop its own tendinopathy.

Having the saddle too high might also make you lean forward more than you should be while riding. This can place excessive stress on the handlebars, and lead to things like “cyclist’s palsy” (ulnar nerve compression, weakness/numbness in the outer part of the hand). This position also shortens the hip flexors, and increases the likelihood of anterior pelvic tilt which can lead to back pain.

Beaunitta Van Wyk/Adobe Stock

Bike Fit At Home

MyVeloFit is a revolutionary new app that combines the powers of computer vision and artificial intelligence to help you do your very own bike fitting at home in a matter of minutes. Whether you’re an individual or a business that specializes in bike fitting, they have a subscription model that works for you. Everything from free to a fraction of the cost of an in-person fitting! Check them out today to start feeling better on your rides!

How To Brake Efficiently on a Road Bike

April 10, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

When you’re starting out cycling, the first thing you need to do is master the basics. You may watch pro riders that make everything look effortless, but unfortunately there’s a lot more to it than may meet the eye. Once you’ve got the basics down, then it’s time to start getting specific. Although your fitness level will remain your most powerful weapon, don’t underestimate the gains from focusing and developing aspects of your bike handling skills. Learning how to brake efficiently on a road bike can not only make you faster, but it will make you feel more comfortable and confident on your bike.

How To Brake Efficiently on a Road Bike

Step 1: Beware of the Front Brake!

You’re front brake may be there to stop you, but your back brake is there to shave off speed. Roughly 70% of your stopping power comes from the front, which is why you never want to slam on just the front brake (pitching you over the handlebars). The best way to get the hang of how much to use each break is to go to a quiet section of road and practice. If you are skidding out, then you are putting too much pressure on the back brake. However, if you’re back wheel is lifting off the ground altogether, then you need to ease of that front brake.

Step 2: Get the Timing Right

When you’re wanting to come to a stop on your bike, you want to start slowing you speed by pulling the back brake. Look up at the spot you want to stop at rather than your front wheel. Slowly start to ease the front brake to further reduce your speed. Keep your shoulders relaxed and arms slightly bend, while focusing on that same stopping spot. Release the front break once you’re going slow enough and use the back brake to bring yourself to a complete stop.

Step 3: Master the Weight Shift

One of the most common beginner mistakes is distributing body weight incorrectly. This will not only effect your braking efficiency, but also your bike response and handling. If you’re on the drops, your center of gravity will be lower than if you’re on the hoods. The hoods feel safer, as you can brake harder with your weight shifting towards the rear of the back.

Being able to pedal through corners may be the most efficient, but it will also take some time and practice to master. You want to do all of you slowing down BEFORE the corner, and you should be able to to leave your brakes untouched through the corner. If you find yourself skidding, shift your weight as far back on the bike as you can.

Step 4: Adapt to the Road Conditions

If the roads are wet and slick, you’ll want to reduce the amount of pressure you put on the breaks. Your technique should be a lot softer then it is on dry roads, and you need to remain especially aware of obstacles. Road markings and manhole covers become very slippery, and you won’t be able to stop as quickly.

Step 5: Give Your Brakes a Little Love

Before heading out on a ride, make sure your brakes are clean, dry and well adjusted. If your brakes are too loose, and you have to squeeze the levers all the way to the handlebar to get any kind of stopping power, you’ll want to loosen your barrel adjusters a few turns. This actually tightens the brake cables and therefore tightens the brakes. If your brakes are so tight that they don’t let your wheels turn, then you can tighten the barrel adjusters back down and make some room.

Step 6: Practice, Practice, Practice

Mastering certain techniques will take time, and braking is no different. Find a quiet area or section of road that you can use to practice your braking technique. Start by building up speed, then stop yourself with the brakes. See how long it takes you to stop, and pay attention to the feedback from the tires. Are they skidding? Are you loosing grip? You will have to experiment to find what works best for you, and to get a feel for how your bike handles when braking.

Easy Tricks for Tubeless Mountain Bike Tires

February 20, 2018 by Ryan Taylor

There is no doubt that the emergence of tubeless mountain bike tires and rims have changed the industry for the better. Riding tubeless enables the rider to run less pressure, giving the rider more grip, better ride feel and also less weight. Adding a sealant to the system adds an extra measure of security as many small holes or cuts in the tire can be patched internally by the sealant. Should a cut happen that is too large for the sealant to do its magic, then the rider can install a tube as normal to get home!

Tubeless has come a long way since the emergence of UST (universal system tubeless) over 10 years ago by Mavic and Hutchinson (two french companies, hence the french abbreviation). Now most rims and tires on the market can be made tubeless very easily, BUT there are few hidden tricks that both shop and home mechanics can use to make the system easier and more affordable.

Editors note: Most Bontrager rims do not apply to these tricks!

Gorilla Tape:

Tubeless rim companies have developed their own tape to ‘tape’ over the spoke holes on the inside of the rim causing it to be sealed. The valve is then poked through the tape. When sealant is added, the combination of these things is what makes the system air tight.

This tape is on the expensive side as it is designed to work with the specific rims. Many professional mechanics, from local shops to World Cup DH, tend to use ‘Gorilla Tape‘. This tape is basically duct tape on steroids and can be bought on the cheap at any local hardware store. Not only that, it comes in many widths to accommodate different rim widths and tends to be thicker than the proper tape. In some opinions, it can lead to a more solid tire seal.

One of the main benefits to Gorilla Tape is how easy it can be found. Being able to buy it at Wal-mart at 10:30pm the night before a race is handy when you break a spoke on the course pre-ride! The key to it working well is to make sure the rim surface is clean for proper adhesion.

Tubeless Valves:

Like tubeless tape, specific valves are recommended to go tubeless. The main benefit of the specific valves is that the rubber base (what hugs the rim) is built up. This works to prevent sealant from going into the valve, clogging it, and also preventing it from pulling through. If you are on a very tight budget or in a pinch, you can cut up an old presta tube. This valve is very similar and can work. If you have a couple of extra bucks you can buy the proper tubeless valve.

Patching Tires:

We have all been there. Installing a new tire and cutting it on the first ride. Tubeless tires don’t come cheap these days and it is very frustrating to cut one before you get your moneys worth! It is possible to patch tubeless tires, but it is very tricky. It’s recommended to buy patches in the automotive isle of the hardware store as they tend to be thicker, more stiff, and generally cheaper. Your DON’T want a flexible, thin, patch with some stretch to it.

Be sure to clean the inner part of the tire thoroughly with alcohol and scuff it up with sandpaper. Once clean, buy the best crazy glue you can find. A favorite is ‘KLEBFIX’ from Wurth brand. It is a fantastic glue and doesn’t corrode rubber. Be careful as it will bond ANYTHING in a matter of seconds. Traditional patch glue doesn’t work well. Keep in mind, this is to get the remaining life from your tires. If you are concerned about it holding up before the biggest race of the year, you should error on the side of caution and buy a new tire.

The Rim-Pop technique:

Lets face it: Tubeless is annoying to set up without a compressor. Thankfully Bontrager has come out with a pump that stores air inside of it causing a burst of quick air popping the tire into place. This is the definition of “Why didn’t someone think of this sooner?” type products.

However, there is another way! Once the tire, valve, tape, sealant are all installed, run your tire lever just under the bead of the tire, gently pulling it up onto the high spot of the rim (where it should sit when inflated). Run the lever all the way around the tire. You will feel it getting tighter and tighter as the lever approaches your starting point. From here, gently pull the lever out and do the same to the other side.

The goal here is to pre-set the tire on the high point of the rim so when you start pumping there are fewer places for the air to escape which aids in the force of the air ‘popping’ the tire into place so the sealant can do its magic.

You will almost always make a mess with this system, but it works. Once you get good at it, it usually works the first attempt. Again this is handy for those without a compressor or who happen to be at a race or on the road. Another good method is before you put the sealant in, install the tire with a tube and inflate it to seat the bead. Then carefully remove one side of of the tire to remove the tube, install the tubeless valve, and add sealant. Then do the above trick on the one side. Also wiping the bead of the tire with a warm, wet, soapy sponge will help the tire to seal.

The bicycle industry has come a long way from UST over the past 10 years. Tubeless tires are more accessible, more affordable, and much lighter compared to then. Is the ‘Stans’ system easier to use than UST? Depends who you ask, but these tips will help you out if you’re in a pinch.