I Love Bicycling

I Love Bicycling is a website that is geared towards cycling for beginners with road cycling tips, training articles, nutrition tips, weight loss, how to’s and bike repair articles.

How To

What Is Bike Geometry?

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Bike geometry is the collection of measurements (lengths and angles) that make up a bike frame. In short, everything on a bike can be changed, but the geometry cannot. Looking at geometry charts on manufacturer’s websites can be confusing, but all those numbers translate into very real and understandable concepts.

There is a lot to know about bike geometry, but understanding the basics can go a long way in ensuring you choose the right bike for your style of riding. Bike geometry can help you understand how a bike will handle, feel, and how comfortable it will be to you.

Most bike manufacturers provide bike geometry charts within the description of the bike, but what is included does vary. Most will include frame size, head and seat tube lengths, top tube length, wheelbase, and chainstay length. Others will also include stack and reach measurements, fork rake, bottom bracket drop, and trail.

Stack and Reach

Stack and reach are the two fundamental elements that can help you determine right away if a bike will fit you. This is especially important because it helps standardize fit between size and manufacturer. Even if a bike is labelled as “medium” or 53cm, the actual fit can differ by up to 2 cm.

  • Stack is the vertical distance (in cm) from the center of the frame’s bottom bracket to the top of the head tube, where the fork passes through the frame. It gives an indication of how tall a frame is.
  • Reach is the horizontal distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top-centre of the head tube. This gives an indication of how long a frame is excluding the stem.

Head Tube Angle, Fork Rake, and Trail

Head Tube

The head tube angle is the angle of the head tube in relation to the ground, with the angle being either ‘slack’ or ‘steep.’ The classic head tube angle for a road bike is 73 degrees, so a steeper angle (higher number) will mean less effort to steer making it better for high speeds. A more slack angle (lower number) may require more effort to steer, but perform much better at slow speeds.

Head tube length is just what is sounds like. Longer head tubes result in a more upright riding position. Short head tubes lower the front of the bike, putting you in a more aerodynamic position.

Fork Rake (Offset)

Fork rake or fork offset is the distance between the steering axis and the wheel center. Whether the fork is curved forward or is straight, but angles, if the offset is the same then it will handle the same. Generally speaking, less fork rake will increase the trail as the center of the wheel is moved back from the steering axis, and more fork rake means less trail.

Trail

Trail is a bit more complicated, and can be difficult to wrap your brain around. Think of it as the tire patch trailing behind the steering axis, determined by the head tube angle and the fork rake. The steeper the headtube angle, the less trail there will be.

Its impact on the feel of the bike is arguably more important and much simpler. A small amount of trail will result in a fast handling bike, meaning it will require less rider input and will handle well at high speeds. The downside is a certain amount of twitchiness, making for a rougher ride.  A large amount of trail will result in a slow handling bike, so it will take more work from the rider to steer at high speeds, but will feel more stable and smooth.

 

Bottom Bracket Drop

The bottom bracket drop is effectively how low you sit on the bike. It is measured by the vertical distance the center of the bottom bracket sits below the wheel axis.

The lower (more) the bottom bracket drop, the better the bike will corner and the faster it will respond (as your center of gravity is lower). The issue is pedal clearance, because the bottom bracket can only be so low before the pedals will catch ground while leaning into a corner.

Less bottom bracket drop will feel more stable at slow speeds, but will be reluctant to corner. This means more input from you through the handlebars to corner.

Seat Tube Angle

The seat tube angle is the angle of the seat tube in relation to the ground. This angle will generally be between 71-74 degrees, and doesn’t vary as much as the head tube angle. You can effectively influence the seat tube angle by changing the saddle position to be more slack or steep.

Chainstay Length

Chainstay length is the horizontal distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the rear axle.

The chainstay length impacts the length of the wheelbase (distance between front and rear wheel axles) as well as the handling of the bike. Bikes with long chainstays will have more stability, as well as allowing room for panniers, making great touring and endurance bikes. Performance bikes, however, will have a shorter chainstay length for sharper handling.

Each measurement on its own can give you a snapshot into how a bike will fit and feel, but they all rely on each other. To get an idea, try looking at two bikes with very different geometry and then ride each one, paying attention to how it handles. You can then refer to those charts, picking out elements that worked and others that didn’t. For more information, getting a professional bike fit is always a great place to start in figuring out what will work best for you and your type of riding.

How To Prevent and Treat Saddle Sores

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None of us like to talk about them, but unless you’re some sort of unicorn of the cycling world, then you’ve experienced saddle sores in one form or another. As an unfortunate side effect of those long rides, here’s what you need to know to get healed up and back in the saddle in no time.

saddle sores

What are saddle sores?

First things first, just what are saddle sores? They can vary from person to person, and are a side of cycling not many of us are too keen to talk about, but when it comes to that pain in the butt, there are actually two different types.

  1. Being “saddle sore” refers to deep muscle bruising that makes you wary to sit down for days post-ride. This is most often experienced by beginner cyclists, or at the beginning of the season. Unfortunately, the only cure is to get back out there and get your bottom used to it. However, if after your first couple weeks of riding it’s not getting any better, your saddle may not be the right fit for you.
  2. Having “saddle sores” is another experience entirely. They can show up as little red bumps (almost like a pimple or ingrown hair), a cyst, or even abrasion on the skin.

What causes saddle sores?

Saddle sores are caused by a combination of factors including heat, pressure, and friction. Although many look at the tiny saddle on a road bike and think it looks like a torture device, a seat that is too wide is more often the problem.

Different saddles have different pressure points, with the majority of the pressure resting on either your ‘sit bones’ or soft tissue.

 

The saddle comes into contact with your body at three main points: your two ‘sit bones’ (ischial tuberosities) and the soft tissue between your legs. Although you may experience that deep tissue bruising we mentioned earlier in your sit bones, it is the soft tissue that causes the most problems when it comes to saddle sores.

The number one cause of saddle sores is chafing. Combine constant friction with heat and sweat, and your skin is likely to become painful. Another issue can be the inflammation or infection at the base of a hair follicle (like an ingrown hair) that is caused by the constant pressure. Finally, skin ulcerations or boils can form and left raw and open to bacteria, these can quickly become infected.

How can you avoid saddle sores?

Although saddle sores may be an unavoidable part of the sport for many, there are things you can do to prevent them and ensure you heal up quickly.

Find the saddle that’s right for you.

 

  • Break your butt in – You’ve heard the saying “slow and steady wins the race” right? Well, when it come to cycling, breaking into long distances gradually, whether as a beginner or at the start of the season, can make all the difference.
  • The right chamois/saddle combination – You may have to do some trial by fire here, but finding the right combination of cycling short and saddle that fits your bottom just right can minimize friction and reduce the risk of developing saddle sores. If you think your saddle isn’t the right fit for you, go to your local bike shop and see if you can try a few out before committing to buying a new one.
  • Skip the underwear – This may seem kind of intimidating at first, but wearing underwear beneath your chamois is a recipe for disaster. Skipping the undergarments eliminates potential hot spots and lets the chamois work to its fullest potential.
  • Keep it clean – This should be a no brainer, but you should wear clean chamois shorts every ride. You don’t want to be adding dried sweat and chamois cream to the equation, as it will just speed up the chaffing process. Be sure to shower before and after riding when possible, and give any irritated skin ample time to breath.
  • Chamois cream – Chamois cream can help reduce the friction between your skin and cycling shorts, but using too much can also cause issues, so you will have to find the right amount that works for you.
  • Get a bike fit – Making sure your overall positioning on your bike and on your saddle is your first line of defence against saddle sores. If you’ve ever borrowed someone’s bike, you’ll know exactly what I mean. We are all shaped differently, and what works for one person won’t for the next. Lowering your seat to eliminate any side-to-side rocking can also help reduce friction.

How can you treat saddle sores?

As mentioned previously, for the deep tissue ‘saddle sore’ pain there is really nothing you can do. Fortunately, this pain goes away with practice, and an hour ride that leaves you tender at the beginning of the season won’t a couple weeks in.

For saddle sores themselves, rest may be in order to give your bottom time to heal up. Riding on raw and irritated skin will only increase pain and the chance of infection. Here are some things you can do in the meantime to speed up the process:

  • Keep the area clean – Frequent showers or even a quick wipe with a damp towel will help keep bacteria out of the area, and will speed up the healing process.
  • Let it breath – Think breathable underwear. Make sure the area isn’t trapping in heat and sweat, as this will continue to irritate the skin. Wear loose fitting pants or a skirt to minimize further chafing.
  • Ointment or cream – Some cyclists recommend the use of an over-the-counter acne cream like Noxzema to both prevent infection and act as pain relief. Tee tree oil also offers antiseptic properties while actively cooling and soothing the area.
  • Antibiotics – Antibiotics should only be used in extreme cases and at the advice of your doctor.

When to see a doctor

Most cases of saddle sores are uncomfortable, but aren’t cause for concern. However, if the sores are not going away within 2-3 weeks, are extremely painful, or get infectected, then it is time to see a doctor.

Although saddle sores are a pain in the ass, hopefully with these tips they won’t keep you off your bike for long! For more information, check out “Finding the best road bike saddle for you” and “Hygiene for cyclists – Why it’s important.”

Bike Saddle Height: Too High, Too Low, or Just Right

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Finding the right bike saddle height can be a bit of a process, but it’s the foundation of a good bike fit. Just imagine you’re Goldilocks, and have to go through the process of having it too hight, too low, and then just right. Once you find the perfect spot, you’ll want to mark it somehow. That way if it gets readjusted somehow (like your kid borrows your bike), then you can easily find the sweet spot again.

Bike Saddle Height

Why Bike Saddle Height Matters

Bike Saddle Height

Ensuring that your seat is at the right height will make a difference when it comes to how much power you transfer to the pedals, and how much energy you use to move forward. It also effects how comfortable you are on your bike, which simply results in being able to spend more time in the saddle. You’ll be able to ride longer and push yourself harder. Riding with the wrong bike saddle height will most likely result in pain and injury in the knees, lumbar vertebrae, and the ankles.

How to tell if your bike saddle height is too low

Riding with your seat too low is a common mistake for beginners, as it can be easier to get on and off that way. A saddle too low or too far forward can cause tendonitis of the patella or quadriceps, which will both show up as pain in the front of the knee. So, if you have pain in your kneecap after riding, you will want to try adjusting your saddle height and position.

Get someone to hold you steady on your bike, or balance yourself in a doorway. Hop on and get into pedalling position, while letting your legs dangle straight down. Pedal backwards until one leg is at it’s lowest point. Your heel should barely be able to touch at the bottom when your leg is fully extended. If you can easily reach make your saddle height higher.

With your heel on the pedal, your leg should be fully extended, but still touching the pedal.

How to tell if your bike saddle height is too high

A saddle that is too high will cause the hips to rock back and forth. Not only does this detract from pedalling efficiency, but it can also be extremely uncomfortable. Discomfort can show up in your lower back or as knee pain (especially in the back of the knee).

Have someone watch you ride from behind, whether out on the road or on a stationary trainer. The hip wobble should be easy for them to see, and you’ll want to bring your seat down a little. Or, if you bring your foot to the bottom of the pedal stroke, your heel should barely be able to touch at the bottom when your leg is fully extended (see photo above). If you can’t touch the pedal at all, then lower the seat.

When you get a new saddle

Generally speaking, most beginner cyclists set their bike seat position initially and then adapt to it, but that’s not the best option. This is particularly true when changing from one saddle to another. The differences in padding thickness and design can throw off your bike seat position drastically. Changing saddles should always include taking a good hard look at seatpost height.

If your new saddle is making you uncomfortable, don’t adapt to it before adjusting the seatpost to get your actual position exactly the same as the old one. Knowing how your seatpost is integrated with your saddle will allow you to change your position or saddle as needed to keep you the most comfortable on the bike.

How To Plan A Bike Route For Your Commute

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There are a lot of great reasons to commute to work on your bike. Not only will it save you gas money and wear and tear on your car, it also makes you feel energized and ready to attack the day. Having that buffer time at the beginning and end of your work day is important for you body and mind. However, getting started can seem daunting. Knowing how to plan a great bike route for your commute is the first step in ensuring you stay on your bike rather than defaulting to hopping in your car. It might be a bit of work to find the route, but once you do, you will be hooked. There are a few elements to keep in mind when planning a bike route, along with a few tools to help you choose that route.

Finding Safe Streets For Your Bike Commute

plan a bike route

The most important element of a good bike commute route is that it is safe. Separation from cars is ideal – the less time you are near them, the safer you will be. This holds true for any ride, but even more so on a commute, when everyone else is trying to get to work also. You will probably have to ride on a street with cars at some point. Be sure that they are quieter and that drivers expect to see cyclists and other road users. Good pavement and scenery are bonuses, although a quieter commute should be the main goal.

A bike commute generally goes from a less dense, more residential area to a more dense, more urban area. Both pose challenges. The residential area may have quiet neighborhood streets, but the roads that connect to the urban area may be higher speed roads. The urban area may have more non-driver users, but may also be more crowded. Weigh these aspects when choosing your route.

The Time of Day For Your Bike Commute

It is likely that during some point in the year, you will ride in low-light conditions. Planning a bike route that will allow other road users to see you with your fantastic light array on your bike and body along with your reflective clothing is imperative to staying safe. Street lights help light the way, but also consider the turns on a route and how you may sneak up on drivers and vice versa. Also note the position of the sun; if you are riding into the sun, it may be hard to for drivers behind you to see you. It may also be hard for you to see oncoming and merging cars and bikes. Try your best to avoid directly traveling into the sun’s path.

The Combo Commute with a Bike

If you cannot start your commute directly from your house because of distance or road conditions, consider a combo commute. Use your car, the bus or train to get to a better starting point with better conditions for you. It can allow you to get to a safer starting point for your bike commute and it can avoid some of the worst on-road traffic. This is a common strategy if the initial part of the commute gets you and your bike to a quiet bike path, while the on-road traffic gets worse as you get closer to your destination.

Tools for How to Plan A Bike Route For Your Commute

It is unlikely that you will see a good bike commute route from your standard car commute. There are a few valuable tools and strategies to find a route.

Experiment

If you know the area well enough and are confident enough, experiment with possible routes to work. It might be a good idea to try your first experiment on a day you are off from work. You will have the time to explore the best possible streets and not be late for work.

Scout the Route

For the section of the route that is on roads and not bike paths, you can scout the route in a car to see if you would feel comfortable on a bike. You can also experiment in your car to search for alternative streets that may be good for riding.

Talk With Other Commuters

Find out who else in your community (neighbors, coworkers, others in your work neighborhood) bike commutes and seek their input on a good bike commute route. Their experience is invaluable to shaping your own commute.

Google Bike Maps

Google bike maps can give you a route that should be safe for cyclists. That said, if the algorithm only sees one way to get somewhere, it may send you through a dodgy intersection or on a busy road. Use Google bike maps in conjunction with talking to other people and using street view to get a better perspective on the actual route. A great way to learn new roads to get places is to have a rough idea of where you want to go from first looking at the map, and then when you get to an intersection, stop and see which way you want to go next. It is a bit of a pain constantly stopping but once you know where to go, you won’t have to stop on your future rides.

Strava Heat Maps

Strava heat maps compile user data to show where people frequently ride. The brighter the street, the more cyclists that use it. It is a self-selecting map because a few people might ride busy or unsafe roads, but most users will ride on safe streets. This is among the best tools to find safe, common routes.

Map it Out

Knowing how to plan a bike route for your commute can help keep you out of your car and riding happily and safely. It can also change the shape of your day, avoiding the frustration of traffic and giving you more time to ride your bike.

How To Adjust Road Bike Brakes

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It’s normal for brakes to start to squeak or get a little soft over time. This may mean it’s time to replace the pads (for calliper brakes) or that the cables need some adjusting. Here’s how to adjust road bike brakes, whether at home or in the shop.

No matter what kind of bike you have, the tension on your brakes is controlled by one of two things: a brake cable or hydraulic fluid. If you have hydraulic disc brakes, there’s not a lot that you can do to adjust them, other than bleeding them, which is generally a job best left for professional mechanics. However, if you have rim brakes or cable-actuated disc brakes, adjusting your brakes is pretty simple and should be something you can do at home.

What You’ll Need

How To Adjust Road Bike Brakes

Small AdjustmentsAdjust Road Bike Brakes

If you have a mountain bike, hybrid, or city bike, you’ll notice that there are screw-like adjusters on your levers where the brake cable housing meets the lever. If you have a road bike, you’ll notice a similar adjuster on the brake itself, again, where the cable housing meets the brake. These are called barrel adjusters, and they allow you to take up cable tension, which brings the brake arms closer to the rim of the bike (or the pads closer to the rotor in the case of disc brakes).

If your brakes are too loose, and you have to squeeze the levers all the way to the handlebar to get any kind of stopping power, you’ll want to loosen your barrel adjusters a few turns. This actually tightens the brake cables and therefore tightens the brakes. If your brakes are so tight that they don’t let your wheels turn, then you can tighten the barrel adjusters back down and make some room.

Bigger Adjustments

These small adjustments don’t require any tools, and you can even do them while you’re riding your bike if you have good enough bike handling skills (but it’s much better to do it while the bike is not in motion). If you’ve already turned a barrel adjuster all the way out or all the way back in, though, you’re going to need to grab either a five-millimeter hex wrench or a ten-millimeter box-end wrench (depending on your brakes).

With your wrench, loosen the pinch bolt that holds the brake cable in place. Then roll your barrel adjuster about halfway out. Pull the cable tight and put enough tension on the brake that it lightly touches the rim. While you do this, tighten the pinch bolt down again. Then roll the barrel adjuster back in, and you should have a well-adjusted brake. If not, you can play with how far you roll the barrel adjuster out and/or how much tension you put on the cable as you tighten the pinch bolt back down. With a little bit of patience, you should be able to adjust your brakes without much trouble at all.

Good luck, and, as always, if you run into too much trouble, don’t hesitate to take your bike to your local bicycle shop for some professional care.

A Beginner’s Guide to Handlebar Tape

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Handlebar tape is an often overlooked aspect of your bike, but it effects both how your bike looks and feels. It covers the essential contact point between you and and your bike, so it’s the easiest way to make your bike feel like new. The tape will work to absorb some of the bumps in the road, as well as provide grip for your hands. Historically, handlebars were wrapped in simple white cloth tape, but now there are a ton of options when it comes to material and colour. So, if you’re looking for a way to spend some quality time with your bike, changing your handlebar tape can be a great way to do it.

How often should you replace handlebar tape?

Cyclists know that certain items, tires, chains, and gears should be replaced at regular intervals, but how often should you replace your bar tape? This will be dependent on how much you ride, but it should be done at least a once a year. Think of how much your hands sweat out on a hot ride, or the dirt and dust from the road making it’s way to your handlebars. It can get pretty nasty looking, especially if it’s white, so you’ll want to make a habit of changing it out.

What to look for in handlebar tape

Grip

Handlebar tape does more than just make your bike look good, it serves as your main point of contact. So, it’s important to choose tape that provides adequate grip for the handling of your bike. Look for something with a tacky finish to ensure you get grip even in wet conditions. This is especially important if you are riding without gloves.

Padding

Handlebar tape provides a nice bit of cushioning for your hands, reducing the vibrations that travel from the road up into your arms. Choose tape that provides the right amount of padding for you and the type of riding you do. Many cyclists choose to double wrap their bars for a little extra cushion, especially when riding on rougher roads.

Looks

There are all sorts of unspoken rules out there. Some say your bar tape should match your saddle, or your kit, or your head tube…the list goes on. The truth of it is, you should chose whatever tape feels the best in a colour that catches your eye.

Types of Handlebar Tape

Bar tape is prone to wear and tear, but luckily most is relatively inexpensive. There are plenty of options to explore too, and new tape will always rejuvenate a tired-looking bike. It’s worth experiencing the subtle differences in comfort, feel, and performance offered by different brands and materials.

Cotton Bar Tape

Cotton is old-school. Any bike built before about 1985 probably has cotton bar tape. Cotton tape is very cheap but it’s not widely available, and your best bet may be to go shopping online for it. Cotton tape comes in a roll with an adhesive backing that is easy to apply to a clean set of bars. Cycling purists like to give cotton tape several coats of shellac to protect the material and prevent it from unwrapping. That’s why some older bikes seem to have shiny handlebars.

Cork/Synthetic Bar Tape

By 1987, cork tape had for the most part replaced cotton as the tape of choice. Contemporary cork tape is actually a synthetic blend of cork and ethylene vinyl acetate. Cork/synthetic tape is more expensive than cotton, but typically also comes with a with a small strip of adhesive backing. Cork/synthetic tape needs to be stretched carefully when wrapping the bars, otherwise it looks untidy and is prone to unravelling. Take care with cork blends, stretch them too tight and they will break. Cork tape is typically too thick for designs such as the harlequin or other pattern making. The main advantage of cork is that it absorbs shock and sweat like nothing else.

High-Tech Bar Tape

Most contemporary bar tapes are made from a lightweight and durable synthetics, in combination with a foam or gel core for cushioning. Materials such as polyurethane, synthetic nylon or silicone are strong, lightweight and durable and often have a tacky  texture that aids grip and contributes to a positive feel to your hands. Some have a perforated surface, others a ‘microfiber’ smooth feel, while others have a textured surface. Some look like faux leather or faux carbon. These newer formulas add good vibration dampening, without the bulkiness that can come from old-school tapes like cork.

Leather Bar Tape

If you’ve ever heard of the Brooks saddle you won’t be surprised that leather bar tape is at the top of the heap. Leather tape just feels good in your hands. Expect to pay around $100 for leather handlebar tape. You can also expect it to last forever. Some cyclists claim that it improves with age, just like a Brooks saddle. If you’re into changing the tape every year as suggested, leather probably isn’t the best choice. The downside to leather is that it doesn’t provide a vibration dampening effect like cork or gel.

How To Change Your Handlebar Tape

Bar tape can last for years, and it typically comes already installed on a new bike. It might seem easy enough; wrapping tape around bars. But it’s not that simple. Not all cyclists know how to wrap a bar and make it last. In fact, it’s one of the most common things done wrong on bicycles.

What You’ll Need

  • Electrical tape
  • Scissors
  • Clean hands or gloves
  • New handlebar tape

1. Remove Old Handlebar Tape

Do whatever it takes to remove the old bar tape. It might just unravel when you remove the plugs, or you can use tweezers or pliers to grip it an pull it off delicately.

2. Clean the Bars

Use a bike specific cleaner or anything that will remove tacky substances. Make sure it’s dry and without any residue to ensure a good bond with your handlebars.

3. Make Adjustments & Secure Cables

If you’re replace existing tape, the hoods should already be in the right position, but this is your chance to move them if you desire. Make the adjustments, and tighten the hoods to the handlebars. It’s typically done with a 5mm hex wrench. The bolt is usually on the outside of the lever under the hood. Its a good idea to ride the bike before applying the tape, to ensure the hoods are where you want them, because after wrapping the bars, they’re difficult to move without disturbing the tape.

Use black electrical tape to secure the brake cables to the bars if applicable. Some bars have holes in them for this purpose, and you can skip the electrical tape. It typically takes 3 or 4 strips of electrical tape to secure the brake line to drop bars.

4. Wrap It

The jury is still out on the direction, and whether to wind clockwise or counterclockwise is up to you. Some prefer to start in the center, on either side of the handlebars. Some prefer to anchor the tape with the plugs, and work toward the handlebars. Because the procedure varies wildly due to your choice of designs, the procedure can also vary.

In general, the most popular technique is to start at the end of the bars leaving about a half-inch overhanging the end of the bars. This is so you stuff it inside the bars when you insert the bar-end plug to secure it. Then start wrapping the bar tape leaving about 1/4 of an inch to a half overlapping the previous. Make sure you keep it snug as you go. When you get to the hoods there are a few ways to do it, but in general, you want to make sure that no metal on the bars is showing. Then continue toward the stem stopping two to three inches from the stem. Cut the tape so it forms a straight edge and wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the end to secure it. Then the nice tape that generally comes with new bar tape can be wrapped over the electrical tape giving it a sleek look.

Cycling Foot Pain, Tingling, and Numbness

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It’s common for cyclists to experience tingling or numbness in their hands, but what does it mean when it shows up in your toes and feet? Foot numbness usually occurs when the nerves between the bones under the ball of the foot become compressed. Besides numbness, symptoms can show up as cycling foot pain, tingling, bruising, or even a burning sensation. Here’s what you need to know about the common causes, and what you can do to treat it.

Cycling Foot Pain

The Common Causes of Cycling Foot Pain

Shoe Fit

The first thing to look at is the fit of your cycling shoes. A pair of shoes that fit you correctly will feel as though they are not there, you should forget about your shoes while riding. Getting fit for the right shoes goes a long way towards comfort. Take your time when trying shoes, feeling out any potential pressure points. If you have wider than average feet, then make sure you get shoes that are wide enough.

If your shoes are too tight, it can cause inflammation between the joints as it decreases blood circulation, as well as constrict the ball of the foot. This can cause numbness, as well as a tingling sensation during and even after a ride.

Cleat Position 

Correct cleat placement, just like the correct shoe, will let you forget that they are even there. Placing the cleats poorly can lead to uncomfortable foot position and can cause pain in nerves from pressure points or strain from improper twisting of the foot. Particularly if the cleat is too far forward it can cause numbness, as it places pressure on the ball of your foot. Take the time to dial in your cleat placement whether on your own, or with a professional bike fit.

Socks

Socks may be the most overlooked element of the foot pain complex. You want a sock that does not bunch up or is too bulky so that it creates pressure points in an otherwise fine shoe. They should keep your feet at the right temperature too. If they are too hot, it could lead to more swelling, exacerbated pressure points and chafing. Feet that are too cold start to hurt from the lack of blood flow or frostbite.

Technique

Climbing without proper pedaling technique or too slow of a cadence can put too much pressure on the balls of your feet and make them go numb. Ensure you are keeping your cadence within the proper range, and as consistent as possible.

Treatment and Prevention

Exercises on the Bike

While out on a ride, pay attention to your feet before the problems show up. If you’re going for a long ride, then try unclip and lift your foot up into the air at the top of the pedal stroke a few times to get your blood flowing. When you’re sitting at red lights, or stopping for a break, then flex your toes or do some circles with your ankles. You can even get off and walk a few paces if need be (although this can be awkward with cycling shoes).

Shoe Modifications

If you find your feet are painful, or going numb during rides, then try invest in some custom arch supports. These can help distribute your weight more evenly and decrease the pressure placed on the ball of your foot and on your toes.

Stretching & Rolling

There are some exercises and stretches you can do off the bike, especially before a ride, to help treat and prevent foot pain. The first is to sit with one leg up on your other knee, fingers locking into your toes. Then rotate your foot around with your hand, stretching out the ankle joint and getting the blood flowing.

Second, you can use a tennis ball or a roller to apply pressureto the bottom of your foot. This can be painful, so don’t apply too much pressure if it’s too uncomfortable. Simply place the ball or roller under your foot, then roll front to back.

If your feet are comfortable while you ride, then it’s going to be a whole lot more fun. Never look at foot pain as an inevitable side effect of cycling, and make sure you do what you can to prevent it.

The Best Balance Bike for Your Child

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Teaching your child to ride a bike is one of the most exciting experiences as a parent, and luckily training wheels are no longer the only option. Over the past few years balance bikes have become a popular option to get kids riding younger, and even skip the training wheels altogether.

If you don’t know what we’re talking about, balance bikes are two wheelers with no pedals and no training wheels, so the child uses their feet to propel themselves along.

Balance Bike vs Training Wheels

When your child first sees their new bike, the first thing they’re going to want to do is hop on. Training wheels do have the advantage here because the child can easily sit on the bike. However, their movement is limited and a lot of times pedals can be too much for them. On the other hand, balance bikes teach your child to balance on the bike (obviously), while at the same time using motor skills they have already learned with walking. It’s an added comfort for them to keep their feet close to the ground while learning, without having the pedals get in the way.

How to Teach Your Child To Ride a Balance Bike

Step 1: Stand and walk.

Step 2: Sit and walk.

Step 3: Sit, run, and balance.

Step 4: Sit, run, glide and explore!

Balance Bikes Make for an Easy Transition

There’s a bit of a trade off here, as with training wheels your child will have the pedaling motion down, but will have no concept of balance. This can be a tough transition because they will have to learn to keep the bike upright as well as deal with the inevitable falls.

If your child is transitioning from a balance bike to a pedal bike they will fall much less. They will have the natural instinct to save themselves with their feet when they begin to tip over.

The Best Balance Bike for Your Child

Most balance bikes are made for children ages 2-4, although they can start even younger than that- if they can walk they can ride! When choosing a balance bike, there are few things you’ll want to be looking out for. First are they tires, as direct and reliable feedback from the bikes steering will help your child feel more comfortable and in control. Avoid any hard plastic wheels unless the bike is only going to be used inside. The best choice would be rubber tires with pneumatic tubes, which offer the most traction and control on a variety of surfaces.

Next, there are the brakes. The original balance bikes did not have a brake, but some contemporary models now include a hand-operated rear brake. This can be a great option for added control, and learning how to use a brake, but isn’t necessary as many kids will still inevidiably choose to use their feet to slow down and stop rather than a brake.

Here are some of the best options when it comes to a balance bike for your child.

Woom 1

Image result for woom 1 balance bike

Price: $199

 

The woom 1 is great for kids anywhere from 18 months to 3 years old. It features air tires, a hand brake, a natural upright body position and added turning limiter. The woom 1 is also one of the lightest balance bikes on the market, making it easier for you child to use on their own.

Strider Sport

Image result for strider sport balance bike

Price: $99

The Strider Sport fits kids 18 months to 4 years, making it a great bike for your child to grow into. It has foam tires, making them maintenance free, but does not give the child as much cushioning or traction as rubber tires.

SE Bikes Micro Ripper

Image result for se bikes micro ripper

Price: $179

Not only does this balance bike look awesome, it was designed by former X-Games star Todd Lyons when he became a father. It has a traditional BMX stem and 16 spoke wheels, making it heavy, but great for kids who tend to be a little rough on their toys.

GOMO

Image result for gomo balance bike

Price: $49

Another budget friendly option with foam tires, the GOMO balance bike is great for kids age 2-4. It features a tucked away footrest, adjustable handlebars, and extended wheelbase that gives more room for the rider to move around.

Bixe 16

Image result for Bixe 16

Price: $69

If you have a child who is too old for the traditional balance bike (age 4-6), but is still struggling to learn to ride a bike, the Bixie 16 is a great option. With larger wheels, a larger frame, and air tires, it can be a great way to get your kid confident enough on two wheels before adding pedals.

5 Cycling Tips to Master Hill Climbing

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Love them or hate them, hill climbing is an inevitable part of cycling (unless you somehow map out perfectly flat routes). So, when you’re sitting at the bottom of a daunting climb what is your go-to game plan? When you’re pushing your muscles to the edge of their ability, you can only tell them to “shut up” so many times – no matter how tough you are they are going to win that conversation.

The best thing you can do mentally is to learn to love climbing. If that’s a little too drastic, then at least go in with the tools needed to feel your best as you grind up the hills. There’s nothing more satisfying than conquering a tough climb–and we want to get you there!

Tips to Master Hill Climbing

Pace Yourself (and use your gears)

Attacking the hill may work if it is small climb with the crest in view from the bottom. However, if you go in too aggressively, sure you’ll feel strong at the bottom, but once you hit a certain point it’s easy to hit a wall. You overexert your muscles and skyrocket your heart rate rather than pacing yourself for the long game. If you find yourself often slowing to a crawl halfway through a climb, think about gearing down earlier and keep those legs spinning. You will then have the energy to “attack the hill” when you reach the final push over the top.

Stand Up Strategically

Should you sit or stand while climbing? It might seem like you’re more power standing by using your upper body weight, but it also requires 10 to 12 percent more energy. The net effect is more energy used and an increase in your oxygen uptake. However, it is good to get out of the saddle to stretch it out a bit and to incorporate different muscles, just save it for the steeper parts– and even then use it sparingly.

Focus

It may seem counterintuitive to try and find your inner peace while your lungs and legs are screaming at you, but the mental game is most of the battle. As you approach the hill, be your own cheerleader, and convince yourself that you love the climb. Focus on your steady cadence. Relax your body from the top down, starting with your eyes, face, neck, and moving all the way down to your toes. If you have a mantra, now is the time to start visualizing it!

Find Your Power Position

If you’re tackling hills with a tense upper body, you’re going to burn out a lot faster. The natural tendency as we get tired is to round the back and slump the shoulders forward, but to allow for efficient breathing, keep your back straight and your chest open. Position your hands on the brake hoods and relax your arms so your elbows sit slightly wider than your hips. Try keep your body free of tension, all the while tightening your core to stabilize your movements.

Practice Hill Repeats

Practice makes perfect. You’re not going to get better at anything by wishing it into reality. Climbing is tough, and it’s never going to get easier, but the more you challenge yourself the stronger you’ll get. Find a hill and spend some time going up and down. Half the battle is finding your rhythm with climbing. Once you do, you may find yourself even looking forward to the hills!

This Cyclist Stretched Every Day For a Month – Here’s What Happened

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Let’s be honest, most cyclists are not known for their flexibility. Not saying I thought it was a waste of time, but I’d rather be out riding than sitting around at home in downward dog.

I’ve been an endurance athlete for most of my life, and with that has come both the joys and the pains of pushing my body to its limits. It also meant that I had no problem crushing a 100 mile ride, but I couldn’t bend over and touch my toes. My limited range of motion had never been a problem for me, so I didn’t pay it much attention.

About a year ago I started having hip pain that eventually turned into knee pain, and I found myself forced off my bike. After sitting around in self pity for a few weeks, I decided to take matters into my own hands. I called up a local sports physiotherapist and set up an appointment. His prescription? Twenty minutes of targeted mobility movements and stretches a day.

In my case the pain may have reared its head in the hip and knee, but the underlying cause is something most cyclists deal with. Dr. Ackerman explained that,

Most people have muscle imbalances, especially in today’s office chair culture, but the issue is taken one step further with cyclists. Hours on the bike is just more time in a bent over position that will inevitably lead to tight hamstrings, weak hip flexors, rounded shoulders, and a pelvic tilt.

The moral of the story? We sit too much, don’t move enough, and as cyclists we spent a lot of time in one position with repetitive movement. Don’t get me wrong, cycling is great for your health, but we’re not engaging our bodies in different types of movements, which in turn leads to imbalance.

Top: Excessive Lumbar Flexion with rounded shoulders. Bottom: A neutral spine in proper cycling position.

This all made sense to me, but it wasn’t until I started paying attention to my posture that I realized just how bad my muscle imbalances had progressed. On the bike my spine would naturally round as my shoulders were pulled forward by tight lats, and tension would gather in my low back. As pictured, tight hamstrings and a weak core accentuated the poor posture.

Now that the problem had been made clear, it was time for some solutions. Along with some specific movements and poses, Dr. Ackerman recommended I try out Dynamic Cyclist, which provides daily stretching videos for cyclists. I was skeptical at first, but on day one as I moved through the poses it felt like my pain points were being pulled apart- in a good way.

After the first routine I decided I would stretch everyday for a month and see how my body adapted. It was totally worth it. Within a couple weeks I could feel my posture improving, I became more aware of how my muscles and joints were feeling day to day and, most importantly, my knee pain was gone.

With my new found mobility, when I finally hopped back on my bike it was no problem maintaining proper posture with a neutral spine and relaxed shoulders. As I tackled my first climb I could feel new found power from my glutes and I was breaking PRs all over my regular route. I felt like I was ten years younger and couldn’t wipe the smile off my face as I rode.

I know it may seem like a stretch, but getting mobilized really has changed my body for the better. If you want to give it a try for yourself, check out Dynamic Cyclist and start your 7 day free trial.

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