I Love Bicycling

I Love Bicycling is a website that is geared towards cycling for beginners with road cycling tips, training articles, nutrition tips, weight loss, how to’s and bike repair articles.

Bike Fit

Bike Saddle Fitting

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Bike Saddle Fitting

When you ride the majority of your weight is placed on the saddle. Having a good saddle fit will help to ensure that you’re comfortable on the bike as well as not doing long term damage to sensitive areas. There are many different variables when it comes to bike saddles and accounting for each one of them is key.

Saddles for Road Riding and Mountain Biking

The way you fit a saddle is different depending on your riding discipline. Fitting for a time trial or triathlon saddle is different than road and mountain but the latter two are similar. Mountain bike saddles typically have a bit more padding to help absorb the bumps as well as have a thicker, more durable cover to help prevent the more frequent crashes from ruining the saddle. These guidelines are road and mountain bike specific.

Width for Bike Saddles

The first thing to consider when fitting a bike saddle is sit bone width. This is where the majority of your weight should be placed on the saddle as this area is surrounded by muscles and tendons that can handle and adapt to the stress. The area in-between your sit bones are sensitive and if sat on for too long with too much pressure can not only be uncomfortable but can also cause longer term damage.

Measuring Your Sit bones

There are a number of ways to determine sit bone width. The easiest is to use an Assometer which can be found at many bike shops. This contraption is malleable and holds the shape that is pressed into it. With this, simply sit on it and measure the distance from the exact center of the two deepest points where the sit bones lie. If you don’t have access to one of these you can sit on a piece of paper or cardboard and feel with your hand where your sit bones lie. Then with a pen, mark on the paper the exact center of each. Then simply measure the distance between the two marks in centimeters.

Choosing Saddle Width

Now that you have the exact width of your sit bones, you can determine what size saddle you need. Take the distance you just measured and add two centimeters. This is approximately what size saddle you need as you want at least one centimeter past the sit bone on each side. Don’t go any smaller but you can get away with a little larger. The limiter here is as saddles get wider, which are normally classified as narrow, medium-width, and wide, the nose of the saddle also widens which can start to rub on the inside of your quads causing discomfort.

If the saddle you have doesn’t have its width marked on it you can simply measure the width of the saddle at its widest point in centemeters.

Shape of Bike Saddles

There are two general shapes of regular saddles when viewed from above. They are T-shaped and pear-shaped. T-shaped saddles can be better if you have problems with chaffing and your quads rubbing on the nose of the saddle. A pear-shaped saddle can be good if you find you move around a lot from forward to back as when you slide forward, there will be more evenly dispersed support to aid in comfort.

Flat-ness of Bike Saddles

A second shape to the saddle to consider is how flat or not flat its surface is. When viewed from the back, how much curvature does the saddle have? The more curvature equals more pressure on the central areas between your sit bones which can be uncomfortable and should be avoided. You also don’t want the saddle too flat as with it slightly curved it keeps you centered on the saddle instead of sliding left to right.

Center Cut-out of Bike Saddles

The center cut-out on bike saddles is designed to take even more pressure off sensitive center areas. This is largely personal preference as some people find the cut-out to be the only way they can comfortably sit on a saddle while others find that it can cause increased pressure as well as pinch certain parts.

A test to see if you might benefit from a center cut-out is to sit on a hard wooden chair or bench and lean forward without arching your back to where you can rest your elbows on your knees. Sit like this for a few minutes and if you find that there is adverse pressure and discomfort on the soft tissue being pressured then you will most likely benefit from a cut-out in your saddle. This is particularly true for women but men can also benefit.

Firmness of Bike Saddles

The final indicator of saddle preference is how hard or soft it is. A lot of people think that a softer saddle with more padding will be more comfortable but in fact it puts more pressure on sensitive areas and not enough weight on areas that can handle it. It makes the pressure on your rump more even across the saddle and different areas can handle different amounts of pressure.

The general ideal firmness is in the medium to lower end range as this places enough weight on your sit bone areas while still being padded enough to give some comfort. Some people find that going all the way to no padding is the most comfortable as this puts the pressure exactly where you want it. For some, this is a bit too much so you need to find your personal preference.

Getting Comfortable with Your Bike Saddle Fitting

After you’ve chosen your perfect saddle you are going to need to test it. The best way is to do an hour or two of riding on it but nothing major as if it’s uncomfortable you don’t want to be half-way through a long ride and be stuck riding home out of the saddle as much as you can. Your rump may be a bit sore at first and for the first ride so you may need to give it some time. This is particularly true if you haven’t been riding much recently. As you ride, the muscles and tendons adapt to the pressure that is placed on them so when these pressure locations change, it will take some time to get used to.

It is extremely important to find a saddle that not only fits your contour but is also comfortable. Your saddle is the most important comfort piece on the bike as it holds the majority of your weight. Even with the right size saddle, flat-ness, firmness, and cut-out preference, you may have to try a few different saddles before you find one that’s comfortable. The little attentions to detail will save you a lot over the life-time of the saddle. And when you find one that works, stick with it. No need to change what works.

Why You Should Get a Professional Bike Fit

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Why You Should Get a Professional Bike Fit

You should get a professional bike fit because you are already making the financial and time investments into cycling and riding without an accurate fit on the bike can negate those investments. Having an accurate fit on the bike ensures that you are not only comfortable but are also going to minimize the chances of having an overuse injury.

The last thing you want with something that you do for fun, or career even, is to not be able to ride because you didn’t take care of a minor adjustment that needed to be done on the bike. A professional bike fitter knows the ins and outs of everything related to fits whether it’s an anatomical irregularity or just a sore back or knee while riding. They can get you rolling faster and help prevent any overuse injuries.

Reasons for a Professional Bike Fit

The reasons are many for why you should get a professional bike fit and how you value each of them will depend on where you’re coming from. Find the reasons why you need a fit and then find an expert bike fitter.

Comfort on the Bike

The number one thing with riding a bike is that it has to be comfortable. Whether you’re just riding around town or racing full tilt, no one wants to be in a position on the bike that is uncomfortable. Even a small discomfort, such as a sore butt from the seat, is something that should be corrected because if it isn’t it can lead to other problems as your body will naturally try to correct for the irregularity. Even if it’s performance you’re after, being comfortable comes first as your performance is going to suffer if you can’t get into a comfortable position to achieve your maximum output on the bike.

Personal Anatomy Irregularities

If you have anatomical differences such as a leg length discrepancy (one leg is shorter than the other which is more common than you might think), inflexibility, or other not so normal things going on, getting a professional bike fit is about the only way that you can properly correct for those irregularities. There are a number of approaches and tools that can be used to assess these problems as well as correct them. If you don’t correct these issues or attempt to correct them without the proper knowhow, it can easily result in injury which can be harder to fix than a simple overuse injury.

Prior Injuries

Another big reason to get a professional bike fit is to accommodate past injuries. These injuries can range from knee pain to lower back issues. An expert bike fitter is going to be able to position you as to make sure that there is not any added stress on the problem area. You will be amazed by how much a professional bike fitter knows and how they can change things around to accommodate your specific issues. Also, just having a proper bike fit will help to insure that these injuries don’t come back and to give you piece of mind about it as well.

Maximizing Performance

Everyone rides for different reasons but the majority of us do like to go fast and see just what we can get out of our bodies whether racing for the town line with buddies or for a finish line in front of thousands. Having an optimal fit will ensure that you are generating the most power along with endurance. If your position is even just a little bit off in one area it can significantly impact your power output which can also result in injury because the tendons and muscles are placed under added stress.

Value of a Professional Bike Fit

The value of a professional bike fit is never the actual cost that you pay for it. It is what you get out of it; the comfort of the ride, the injuries avoided, the performance gains. These all are extremely important measures and in addition to these a fit will also save you time and money directly.

Saving Time and Money

If you don’t have a good fit on the bike sooner or later you are going to suffer an overuse injury. This is going to not only take away from time riding but will also take time to heal. Whether it be on your own with icing, stretching, and other remedies or with a visit to the doctor. If it is a particularly bad injury you could need further analysis and treatment including MRI’s and physical therapy which are far more expensive than a professional bike fit. Accounting for problems and issues before they occur is always the best way to approach any situation. Of course issues do arise but with a professional bike fit they are far less likely.

Getting a professional bike fit is well worth the investment. It will pay dividends in the short and long run as you will be comfortable on the bike as well as have a higher degree of power and endurance. You will also then have much less of a risk of developing any injuries which will keep you on the bike where you belong. Find a good professional bike fitter and make the most of their knowledge and expertise. When you do, you’ll wonder why you waited so long to get one.

At Home Bike Fit

MyVeloFit is a revolutionary new app that combines the powers of computer vision and artificial intelligence to help you do your very own bike fitting at home in a matter of minutes. Whether you’re an individual or a business that specializes in bike fitting, they have a subscription model that works for you. Everything from free to a fraction of the cost of an in-person fitting! Check them out today to start feeling better on your rides!

How To Fit a Bike Helmet

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How To Fit a Bike HelmetGetting the right helmet fit is imperative to your safety. Wearing a poorly fitted helmet is almost just as bad as not wearing one at all. A good fitting helmet worn properly will not only help to protect you in the event of a crash but also looks good. There are a few things to know when buying a helmet as well as when wearing it.

Find Your Size

There are two ways to find the right size helmet for your head. The first is measuring the circumference of your head just above your ears. This number, ranging from about 50 to 60 centimeters for the average adult, correlates with different sized helmets. Try the one on where your circumference falls in the range of the helmet size, typically labelled on a sticker on the inside of the helmet.

The second way to find the right size, provided you have an assortment of sizes to choose from, is to just try them on and see how much space is between your head and the helmet. With both methods you don’t want any more than one to two fingers to be able to fit in-between the helmet and your head.

If there’s too much room your head will actually be knocked against the inside of the helmet in the event of impact which can also cause injury. If there’s not enough room, the helmet simply won’t be comfortable and will likely sit too high on your head not protecting you as well as it should.

How to Wear Your Helmet

Now that you have the right sized helmet you need to make sure that you are wearing it properly. Most of today’s helmets are going to have an adjustable mechanism in the rear of the helmet to cinch down the inner retention system to your head. This is going to keep the helmet from moving around.It shouldn’t be overly tight but also shouldn’t be too loose. You should be able to grab a firm hold on the helmet and not have it slide around your head.

The helmet should also be worn in a level position with the front falling no more than one to two finger lengths above your eyebrows. If it’s too far up and more on the back of your head, it won’t protect the front of your head in the event of a fall. If it’s too far forward, you won’t be able to see for one as it will be in your eyes, but it also won’t protect the back of your head.

Adjusting the Buckles

The final but just as important step to making sure your helmet fits properly is to have the straps and buckle positioned correctly. With a new helmet this can often be a challenge as there are four straps that need to be aligned and positioned well to be comfortable as well as safe.

The first step is to release the adjusting plastic pieces on the sides of the helmet. These slide up and down the straps and can be locked in place to hold the strap where it’s supposed to be. Put the helmet on your head and slide the piece up so it falls just below your ear making a Y with one strap going in front of your ear and the other behind. Lock the plastic piece down in place. Then do the same on the other side so it’s even.

Now you need to make sure the buckle is centered under your chain. If the receiving piece of the buckle is too far one way or the other you are going to have to loosen or tighten it by pulling the strap up through the rest of the helmet. This will also move the plastic adjusters on the sides so you may have to readjust them. Once this is centered under your chin, you can then pull the straps tight so they’re snug but not overly tight when the buckle is clipped.

Depending on how much extra strap is left over you can tuck it into the rubber piece that is on most helmets to prevent the strap from dangling. If you do need to shorten the strap, use a pair of scissors and cut accordingly. The real trick comes in taking a lighter and singing the end of the cut piece so it doesn’t fray.

Wearing a helmet is imperative when riding a bike and almost just as imperative is wearing a helmet that fits properly. Getting the right sized helmet for your head along with properly adjusting it will help to ensure that the helmet does its job when the time is less than ideal, i.e. when you have a fall. Your head is much safer and you have the piece of mind that your head is taken care of while wearing a helmet.

What is Pedal Float?

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What is Pedal Float?

With cycling cleats and pedals, pedal float is how much your foot can move and rotate while clipped in to the pedal. The degree of how much your foot can move while attached to the pedal depends largely on pedal type as well as cleat choice. There are varying degrees of float that have an ideal scenario for when they should be used. Having the wrong pedal float can cause injury so it’s important to choose the right one for you depending upon your bike fit as well as personal anatomy.

Why You Should Have Pedal Float

Pedal float is built in functionality with the objective of allowing your foot to rotate to its natural position to keep your ankle, knee, and hip in a natural position. Everyone’s natural foot angle, the angle at which your foot naturally falls when you walk or pedal, is extremely difficult to line up perfectly on the bike. Because of this, the little bit of float in the pedal allows you to rotate your foot ever so slightly which in turn changes the rotation of your shin and thus knee ever so slightly. If you can’t rotate to achieve this natural position, added stress is placed on the knee joint which over time and at high stress, can cause knee pain.

What the Ideal Pedal Float Is

The perfect amount of pedal float depends on how dialed in your position is on the bike. A bike fit in general wants to position you so your body is able to function in its natural ranges of motion. This means that with cleat position, they are placed at the correct location on your foot as well as at the correct angle to account for your natural foot angle. If your cleat is positioned perfectly so your foot is in its natural position and your knee is lined up how it should be, you don’t need any pedal float. Getting this perfect position often takes a fair bit of trial and error in moving and rotating the cleats to where they feel perfect, which is why most people should and do ride with some amount of pedal float.

Pedals and cleats often range from 5 to 15 degrees of float. If you don’t have the best fit it is better to error on the higher end to not constrict your foot to an adverse angle. The one risk with higher degrees of float angle is that your foot is not as stable on the pedal which allows your knee to constantly change its tracking which can be bad. The solution to this is getting a better fit on the bike from an expert bike fitter or by doing it yourself (“How to Do a Proper Bike Fit”)

The mid to lower degree of float angle is ideal as it allows a little bit of movement to position your foot in the correct angle while keeping your knee tracking in relatively the same path. Aim for less than 8 degrees of float as this will give you enough float to allow for any alignment discrepancies, but not so much that you knee may track poorly.

Does Pedal Float Hurt your Knees

The improper amount of pedal float can hurt your knees. Too little float with your cleats not placed in the exact correct position will result in high stress to your knees which can result in injury especially over time. Too much float can cause your knee to not track properly in the same line. Your feet will be sliding around on the pedals on an unstable platform.

If you already have knee issues, make sure to change the angle of your cleats so it promotes natural foot alignment along with adjusting your float. An expert bike fitter can give you more detail and make sure you are in the best position to resolve your knee pain.

Variety of Cleat Types

Each pedal brand has its own qualities and most have a number of different cleat options depending on how much pedal float you want. These often come in different colors to differentiate from no float to a mid-range degree of float to a high degree of float. A little bit of research on your pedal type will show you what cleat options are available to get your ideal pedal float.

Pedal Release Tightness

On some pedals the degree to which the clip engages the cleat can be adjusted. Pedal float is in the cleat itself and not the pedal so adjusting this to help with pedal float won’t help. If it is loose however, your foot could flex the spring-loaded mechanism which will feel loose particularly on the upstroke of the pedal stroke. You can tighten this slightly to make sure it’s firm and not moving with each pedal stroke. Over tightening will cause it to be difficult to unclip as well as take more force to disengage your cleat in the event of a crash.

Pedal float is a great solution and avoidance to knee and other issues resulting from improper foot angle on the pedal. Even with a professional bike fit, everything may not be perfect so having a margin of error built in to your pedals can pay dividends in the long run to avoid injury. The right amount of pedal float for you depends on your position so make sure that’s correct first and then analyze your natural foot angle to position your cleat correctly so you don’t need a large degree of pedal float. With this and a low to mid-range of pedal float, you should be in a good position to avoid injury.

Bike Fitting Tools – What They Are and How to Use Them

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Bike Fitting Tools - What They Are and How to Use ThemA bike fit is a game of millimeters and half angles with the objective of lining everything up perfectly for your body to achieve its optimal position on the bike. These bike fitting tools will help you get those millimeters and half angles. There are a lot of approaches to getting the best bike fit, one being an expert looking at your fit and from their years of experience they can accurately say if something is off.

Unfortunately these individuals are harder and harder to come by and even if they are right our faith in them being right has diminished. Using accurate bike fitting tools is one way that the individual or less experienced bike fitter can get an accurate fit. These bike fitting tools can range from a simple tape measure to a fit specific bike costing thousands of dollars. As with any tool, knowing how to use it properly is where its real value lies. These few tools can give you an accurate set up in determining your perfect position on the bike.

Tape Measure

The first bike fit tool to have whether a professional bike fitter or do it yourselfer in the basement, is the tape measure. You can get by with any old tape measure but having a good one will help ensure accuracy and consistency. The best tape measure for bike fitting is a metric flexible cloth or plastic one that does not stretch whatsoever.

The flexibility is key as it is easy to work with and can be placed very accurately instead of having a big hook on the end of a conventional tape measure. Also, using metric is much easier to read, write down, and duplicate with less chance for error.

The big draw to a flexible tape measure is that you can easily take it wherever you go so if you need to rebuild your bike or even ride a different one, you can easily measure it to your exact specifications.

Find a tape measure.

Level

Part of having an accurate bike fit is starting with a bike that is positioned perfectly level. If your front wheel is slightly higher or lower than level, when you ride on the road everything is going to be tilted a little bit forward or back. If you have a short level, get a long, perfectly straight piece of wood or even a string to lie exactly across the skewers at the exact same point to make sure the bike is level.

A second great thing to measure with a level is your saddle tilt. It’s generally ideal to start with a perfectly level saddle and go from there based upon comfort. The trick here is that saddles are almost never perfectly flat so make your best guess on where you sit on the saddle and position it so it’s perfectly level.

A final area that a level can be helpful with is measuring saddle set back. Saddle set back is measured from the center of the bottom bracket. Getting an accurate straight line up to measure back from is key and is where having a level is ideal. If you don’t have a level for this however, lining up your bottom bracket with a door frame can be beneficial because the majority of the time they are constructed to be exactly vertical. Unless you live in an old house, then you might need that level to straighten your door frame.

Find a level.

Plumb Bob

A plumb bob is a simple contraption but is highly useful in creating an exactly vertical line. The key area that this is used in is seeing where the front of the knee falls relative to the spindle of the pedal. It can also be used in place of a level to determine saddle set back. Due to its simplicity, it is easy to make but high end ones have a pointy bottom to mark exactly where the center lies.

Find a plumb bob.

Goniometer

Probably the most well-known tool with bike fits is the goniometer (or g-meter or even angle finder) as it’s big and looks precise and professional. This tool measures angles to accurately position knee, hip, and ankle angles as well as other key areas.

What an experienced bike fitter has a knack for without any tools is the angle which is created particularly by the knee. There are exact measurements which your knee angle should fall between which can be found under the “Holmes Approach” in “How to Do a Proper Bike Fit”. The key to using a goniometer is to find the exact position of the joint and measure consistently from the same exact point every time an adjustment is made on the bike.

Find a goniometer.

Body Targets

An easy way to ensure that you’re measuring from the exact same point is to use markings placed on the joint so you can measure precisely from the same exact point. You can make your own or use pre-made ones which stick in place where you want them. The key here again is to make sure they are placed in the correct position on the joint not only to measure from the same point but to make sure your measurement is the same measure that you are comparing your angles to.

Find body targets.

Forefoot Measuring Device

Another cool angle measuring device measures the angle at which your foot naturally tilts. Everyone is different and feet almost never fall exactly flat. The average shoe and pedal system position the foot so it’s exactly level with some minor accounting for arch support with foot beds. A Foot Measuring Device is placed on the bottom of your foot while it is in its natural position and measures how much tilt it has. This can then be accounted for in your fit with cleat wedges which are wedges that raise one side or the other of your cleat to angle your foot to its natural position.

Find a foot measuring device.

Bike Fitting Tools

There are a lot of tools that can be used to achieve a perfect fit on the bike but having these few can give you the accuracy and consistency in determining your fit as well as replicating it on other bikes. With these bike fitting tools, be sure you know how to use them properly as without the proper know how they can create other issues which will then need to be corrected for.

How To Do a Proper Bike Fit

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How to do a proper bike fit addresses what you require to do a bike fit: a self assessment of your body, and outlines a step by step guide on how to get a perfect bike fit.

If you’re not riding too long nor hard you might be able to get away with a poor bike fit as your tendons and muscles can handle a certain amount of stress. The problem however resides when you start to ride longer and harder especially without increasing that intensity gradually.

Having a proper bike position will help to prevent injuries and improve performance. There is a lot to know to get your position dialed on your own, and we will briefly discuss some key factors so you do not have to spend hundreds of dollars on a professional fit. The professional fits however are worth it but aren’t always warranted by everyone so this is intended to touch on what a professional fitter would do despite the number of varying approaches to bike fitting. If you have questions or are uncertain on anything, seek out someone who knows as having a bad bike fit is just as bad as not having one at all.

How to Do a Proper Bike Fit

What You Need

First you are going to need a few things more than your bike and shoes to do a quality fit on your own. You are going to need:

  1. Stationary trainer – so you can get on and ride in place to see how all the incremental changes feel.
  2. Tape Measure – ideally in centimeters as it’s easier to work with.
  3. Plumb Bob – a string with a weight attached to the bottom to create a straight vertical line.
  4. Level – can be helpful to make sure the bike is level in the stand as well as to measure saddle set-back. You can get by without one if you don’t have one however.

Self-Assessment

When going to a professional fitter the first thing that they are going to do before you even get on the bike is to ask you a few questions along with doing a few flexibility and discrepancy tests. This is difficult to do on your own but if you know of any muscle inflexibility or leg length discrepancies, you are going to have to correct for them.

For Example – If you know you have tight hamstrings, you are going to have to have a more relaxed (less aero) position on the bike.

Making the Adjustments

The adjustments you are going to make on the bike need to be in the order described here as when you move one thing, it results in changes to the other measurements.

Cleat Position

Cleat position is the first thing we are going to address as moving this later after you get your saddle height and set-back dialed will change. If you have already been riding your specific shoes and pedals, leave the cleats where they are if you haven’t had any issues.

If your cleats are new, you first need to estimate your natural foot position. Stand barefoot or in your socks on a hard surface naturally and see how your feet are positioned. Are they pointed straight ahead, pointed out, or pointed in? You want your foot position on the pedal to replicate this as if you just try and set it straight, it will go against how your muscles and tendons naturally align your foot.

After this you will want to put your cycling shoes on and determine where the bone on the outside of your foot protrudes. This bone is where your pinky toe connects to the rest of your foot, also known as the ball of your foot.

For a starting point, this is where you want the center of the pedal to fall. Mark on both shoes where this point is with something that comes off so you don’t mark up your shoes. Then position your cleat in the center of your shoe, from side to side, and line up the center as well with where the mark on the side of your shoe is. Then make sure the cleat is angled to account for your natural foot alignment. Yes, this is a lot of steps and when you start riding you may need to stop and adjust them a few times to get it positioned perfectly.

Saddle Height

A bike fit encompasses the details of many areas of the bike but the one that is the most influential is the saddle height. Finding the proper saddle height has a number of varying approaches to get just right. A few of the approaches will be touched on, but the best approach is a combination of them in a certain order to get an exact height.

To get the same measurements you need to make sure that you are measuring from consistent points. This can be difficult on a saddle because they are always different and almost never completely flat. A good way to measure from the same point is measure 155mm back from the tip of the saddle (the nose) and make a mark. This is generally where the center of your pelvis will sit on the saddle. Any measurements that you make, make to this point except for when measuring the 109% and LeMond Approaches described below.

Heel Approach

The heel approach is the easiest and probably most widely used to get a rough estimate on saddle height. On the bike with your cycling shoes on, spin your pedals backwards with your right heel on the base of the pedal making sure that you keep your hips level and that they don’t rock from side to side. With your leg straight, you want your heel to be about a half to one centimeter from touching the pedal. No more, no less. You will probably have to get off and adjust your seat post a couple times.

109% Approach

The 109% approach takes the measurement of your inseam and multiplies it by 1.09. This is then the length from your saddle to the spindle of your pedal at the bottom of your pedal stroke. To get your exact inseam length, get a large hard cover book and a pencil. Stand with your back against a wall in your bare feet or socks with your legs straight. Place the binding side snuggly up between your legs and make sure it is level. With the book positioned close to the wall, level, and at the upper-most part of your crotch, place a light mark on the wall at the top of the book. Now with your tape measure, measure from the mark to the floor. This is your inseam.

Now doing some quick math in your head, alright probably with a calculator, multiply it by 1.09. With the pedal at slightly before the 6 o’clock position, (you want it to make a straight line with the seat tube coming down) measure from the spindle up the length of the seat tube and seat post to the top of your saddle. Now depending upon your frame geometry and current saddle set-up, this length is not going to be to the point you previously marked on the saddle. That’s ok; that mark is so you can get an exact measure of your set-up regardless of what bike or saddle you ride.

LeMond Approach

The LeMond method is a derivation of the 109% approach in that it uses the same inseam measure except is just multiplied by a different number and to a different point on the bike. This approach is better than the 109% approach as it’s easier to measure to a stationary point, the center of the bottom bracket. The variable here is going to be crank-arm length. It depends on riding style but typically shorter riders want crank lengths around 170mm or less. Medium sized riders, 5’6 or so to 6’-ish, 172.5mm and 175mm, heights above that. This is a very rough estimate so determine your riding style and what will work best for you.

Back to the inseam. Take your inseam measurement and multiply it by .883. This is the length from the center of your bottom bracket to the top of your saddle along your seat tube. Again, like above, the mark you put on your saddle won’t be used for this but is rather just a good way to get consistent measurements for your position when set.

Holmes Approach

Now that you got your saddle height to a pretty good height with the heel method and backed it up or adjusted it with the LeMond approach, you should have a height that is pretty close to where it should be. The goal of the above approaches is to get your knee angle within a certain degree. Instead of measuring other variables, why not just measure the exact variable that you are trying to get dialed in. Well because it’s more difficult. You need a goniometer which measures angles but with some improvisation you can probably come up with something similar on your own. The difficulty then becomes measuring your knee angle precisely. Getting someone to help you will be a big help.

With your foot at the bottom of the pedal stroke, slightly in front of 6 o’clock on your right leg, you want to measure the back angle that the femur (thigh bone) creates with the tibia (shin bone). The back angle isn’t the angle of your bent knee but rather the angle from if you would continue a straight line from your femur and measure the angle down to your tibia. You want an angle between 25 and 35 degrees and falling closer to 25 than 35 if possible.

If you don’t have someone who can help you, and even if you do, another way to do this is to record a video from the side of yourself pedaling and pausing the footage when your leg is at the bottom of the pedal stroke and measuring the angle with a protractor or other improvised device. Whether measuring the actual angle on your body or on a screen, make sure you are lining up with the bones precisely. Use the hip and ankle as reference points.

Seat Set-back

Now that you have your saddle height figured out, you may have to alter it a bit but that’s OK since you know how to measure it back to the proper height.

Moving the saddle back is going to effectively raise your saddle while moving it forward is going to do the opposite. The degree to which your saddle is positioned behind your bottom bracket is going to depend on the type of riding that you are doing. A position that is further forward, such as that for triathlon or time trials, will rotate your hips forward on the saddle while a mountain bike and largely road position will be further back with less forward rotation. Generally in the middle is ideal to start off with.

A good starting point is to set the nose of the saddle 6 to 8cm behind the bottom bracket. If you have a level this is where it can come in handy, otherwise take your plumb bob and position it so it falls at the center of the bottom bracket. Now measure from the tip of the saddle to this point directly above the center of the bottom bracket; it should be around 6 to 8cm.

Now that you have a ball park estimate, get on the bike and clip in. Having someone help you in this next part can be beneficial but is doable on your own as well. Stop your right leg at the 3 o’clock position with the crank arm level. Now position the string of the plumb bob not on your knee cap but rather the little boney bulge just below and in front of it. Now see where the plumb bob falls relative to the spindle of the pedal.

Ideally in a neutral position, you want it to line up directly with the spindle of the pedal. If it falls more than a centimeter in front of the spindle, you need to move your saddle back roughly that same amount and vice versa. This position in the center is a neutral position that you can change depending upon the type of riding that you are doing.

Going Back to Saddle Height

Now that you have the set-back correct you are going to have to go back to whichever method you used to find your saddle height as depending on how far you moved your saddle, your height is going to be off. As stated above, if you moved your saddle back you are going to have to lower your saddle a little and vice versa.

Once you get this properly adjusted again, double check where the plumb bob falls again and make adjustments as needed. Every time you move one thing it is going to impact the others so you need to check and make sure it didn’t throw the others too far off. Bike fits aren’t one and done but rather a good amount of try and try again and before long you will have it where you want it.

Handlebar Set-Up

The core of a bike fit is your seat position relative to your bottom bracket but where your upper body falls can have a big impact on comfort as well as overall performance.

The first thing is to determine your flexibility and what type of riding you are doing. If you have tight hamstrings as well as back muscles you simply aren’t going to be able to ride with super low handle bars. The handlebar set-up determines how far stretched out, or scrunched up you are on the bike. You want to be in a natural neutral position with not too much of either.

A good gauge is with your hands on the hoods, or whichever position you will be riding in the most, look down at the axle of the front wheel. Where does it fall relative to the handle bars? If the handlebars are behind the axle you are probably too scrunched up. If the handlebars are in front of the axle you are probably too stretched out. Leeway of a centimeter or two in either direction is OK but past that you will need a different size stem.  If it’s too much in either direction you are probably on the wrong size bike and may need a different frame size to get to that ideal position.

Raising or lowering the bars is going to depend on how much room you have on either side of your stem on the steerer tube. You can take spacers from below the stem and put them on top to lower your bars or vice versa. Be sure you properly tighten the head-set and stem bolts when you put it back together.

Adjusting to Your New Bike Fit

Now you’re all set. Your cleats, saddle height, saddle set-back, and handle bars are in an ideal position to ride comfortably with less chance of injury. Since your original bike fit probably wasn’t exactly what it is now you need to make sure you ease into riding in this position as your muscles and tendons won’t be used to it.

Depending on how far off your previous position was, you should ride for no more than an hour the first few days. Remember to increase intensity gradually and address any pains immediately. Riding at a lower volume and intensity will give your body time to adjust and get used to the position. If you feel something is off, stop and make adjustments as needed while on a ride. Only make small adjustments of about a millimeter or less each time.

As you can now see, there is a lot that goes into a proper bike fit and this doesn’t even include everything. You can go to the n-th degree when doing a bike fit, measuring angles and determining optimal power in varying positions among other things. This guide is intended to give you a basic idea of how to get your position as close to your ideal position without having to get an expert fit.

A professional fit is always advisable however as depending on your body and specific conditions, an expert is going to be able to make adjustments to correct for things that you may not even know are an issue for you. You can do it on your own, just make sure you pay attention to detail and are smart about the changes you are making. The above will get you close to where you should be and should help prevent overuse injuries as well as help you to ride faster and longer, after you ease into your new position.

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Road Bike Riding Positions

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Road Bike Riding PositionsRarely do we ride down a road that’s exactly the same the entire time. The road changes surfaces, twists, turns, climbs, descends, as well as gives us traffic and dogs to look out for. Our position on the bike changes with each of these for comfort as well as functionality. Knowing which one to be in for each scenario will help you find those positions on the bike without even having to think about it.

Road Bike Riding Positions

Hand Positions

On the road bike, changing hand positions frequently will allow you to be in the position most suitable for the terrain beneath your front wheel as well as to keep your hands from becoming sore and going numb. There are four main places to put your hands on a road bike. Some are standard and easy to know, others you might not think about.

The Everything Position – The Hoods

The majority of riding will be done on the hoods, or where the shifters and brake levers are on a road bike. This gives the greatest functionality as your hands are close to the shifters to allow for quick shifting as well as the brake levers to be able to slow and stop quickly if needed. This position also allows you to easily stand up out of the saddle to go up hills or to accelerate as well as to stretch. Having your hands on the hoods also allows you to be in a semi-aerodynamic position while not being too low where there is added strain on your back.

The Drops

While the hoods are the best all-around position, the drops are where you will find the most aggressive position. The drops bring your body slightly forward and lower allowing you to be more aerodynamic. This can put more strain on the backs of your legs into your back but if you stretch properly and ease into the amount of time you spend in the drops, it can be beneficial. The drops still give you easy access to the shifters as well as even more braking capabilities because you can now pull harder on the brakes in a more neutral position. The drops also offer better stability down descents, as you have a lower center of gravity, as well as better handling down bumpy roads, as you have a more solid grip on the bars. The drops and the hoods are also the two places you want to hold on to if you are riding in a group as you have a quick reach to the brakes if needed.

The Tops

The tops are the part of the handlebar between the stem, the part holding the bars to the bike itself, and the hoods. This position can allow you to ride a bit more upright taking more pressure off your back as well as hands. This position should only be used when you are on a straight, open stretch of road, or climb, where you most definitely won’t have to use the brakes quickly as your hands will be further from them. Also, never ride the tops in a group as again your hands are too far from the brake levers.

The Aero Position

A fourth position on the road bike that is often not thought about is the aero-position. This is where you simulate the use of aero-bars, bar extensions that bring you into a more aerodynamic position. To do this you place your fore-arms on the tops and drape your hands forward and together in front of the handle bars. This brings you further forward as well as lower giving you less frontal area to the wind. The key to this position is to make sure you have not only good open stretch of road where you won’t need to brake suddenly but also that there are no potholes or other bumps that may throw you from the bike. This position is a lot more unstable so it must be used with caution but with a little practice it can help you go faster with the same amount of effort.

Body Position

Now that you know where to put your hands you need to make sure that your body is in a good position to utilize them. While you theoretically can be in each position for each scenario of riding, being in the right one will make your riding the most effective as well as safe.

Neutral – The Everything Position

When you’re riding roads that you are generally on the hoods on, you will be in a standard position on the bike where you’re seated firmly and comfortably on the saddle. This position gives you the best all-around pedaling performance as you can generate power while lasting all day. This position also allows you to have a solid third point of contact with the bike, the other two being your hands and feet, so you can react to any pot holes or bumps that you may hit as well as any sudden turns you may have to make.

Climbing

While climbing uphill can be ridden in the neutral position, and will be if you are not going too hard, at times you will want to slide forward a bit toward the nose of the saddle to get a bit more power to the pedals. Your hand position will generally be on the hoods or on the tops as it still gives the grip to pull on the bars a bit as well as to keep your lungs opened up.

At times while going uphill, particularly on the steep parts, you will want to get out of the saddle to get more power to the pedals. Climbing out of the saddle can be a bit more inefficient as the majority of riding is done seated so that is what your muscles are used to. With training and proper form however it can be used to climb faster. You don’t want to be too far forward where your body is almost over the handlebars. Rather you want to be somewhere just ahead of the saddle so that the backs of your legs just brushing the nose of the saddle. In this position you will want your hands on the hoods as it gives the most stability as well as an upright position.

You don’t want to over swing the bike back and forth in either direction but rather small amounts to get the most out of each pedal stroke. You want to make sure you unweight and even pull up on the upstroke of the pedaling motion. A tendency climbing is to push a lower cadence. Try, both in and out of the saddle, to keep your cadence higher, closer to your normal riding cadence. This will keep your legs from building up fatigue quickly.

Descending

Going downhill requires more than just riding with your hands in the drops for stability and braking but also a bit different body position. Going downhill you want to be positioned to absorb any road bumps as well as to smoothly take any corners. To absorb bumps, you want to be slightly out of the saddle with your legs at 3 and 9 o’clock, forward and backward, and slightly bent. You then want your butt slightly off the saddle but your legs still touching both sides of it for added stability. You will bounce between this position and actually sitting on the saddle as you go down the descent and encounter varying road conditions. As it gets bumpy, take your butt off the saddle a little. When it smooths out, sit back down. When a corner is coming up, sit back down as well as it will give you more stability through corner.

Riding with your hands in different positions on the handlebars will allow your hands to not get sore in any one spot as well as to provide a solid base for your body position depending upon the road ahead. Knowing and using both the hand positions and body positions will make your riding more efficient as well as comfortable. Use them, get comfortable with them, and then you won’t even have to think about it. You’ll just find the best position for the road ahead.

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Mistakes to Avoid When Buying a Bike Saddle

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Mistakes to Avoid When Buying a Bike SaddleA lot of novice cyclists make the mistake of believing that their bike saddle isn’t all that important. After all, if they are just going to be on the bike for an hour or so a day, many reason that they can just get by with whatever came with the bike.

However, once the cycling bug grips you and you start wanting to spend longer on your rides, you will quickly realize that having a good bike saddle is vital to ensuring that you remain comfortable and healthy when you are really pushing yourself. This is especially true for adventure cycling and other long distance trips, where a bad saddle can cause issues in the long run. If you’re now in the market for a new saddle, there are a number of key mistakes that you need to ensure you don’t make before you spend your cash.

Not Taking It For A Test Ride

If you were buying a new car, would you just pay the money without even getting a feel for the vehicle before you did? Of course you wouldn’t, and the same should be true of your bike saddle.

You need to look at a new bike saddle as a long term investment. This is something that is going to be with you for the lifetime of your bike, and often beyond, so you need to make sure that it suits all of your requirements. A good saddle will stay with you for many years.

Soft Does Not Mean Comfortable

If you have ever sat in a particularly soft bike saddle it is easy to believe that they will be the ones that will offer the most comfort on a long ride. After all, it simply feels so good to have all of that cushioning underneath you, so how could there possibly be a better choice?

However, it is important to remember that soft does not equate to comfort in the long term. Whenever you ride your bike, your sit bones will always be looking for somewhere solid to rest. That soft saddle that seemed like such a good idea at first may actually lead to you poorly distributing your weight and leaving yourself in discomfort during your ride.

Failing To Consider Your Riding Style

Though there are obviously proper techniques that most cyclists follow, nobody’s cycling style is ever going to be exactly the same. After all, the way you ride is going to change based on the terrain you’re riding on, as well as your personal preferences.

When you are buying your bike saddle you should always make sure to speak to a professional and let them know exactly how you ride and what you use your bike for. In some cases they may be able to point you in the direction of a bike saddle that better suits your personal style and needs.

Not Sizing Properly

Bike saddles come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, so you need to ensure that you pick on that suits your particular body type. Sit bone width, in particular, is important to keep in mind as this measurement doesn’t necessarily equate to your pants size.

Make sure you have an idea of the size that you need and speak to a professional if you’re unsure. After all, your bike saddle might be the greatest in the world but if it doesn’t fit your body type it is still going to feel extremely uncomfortable when it comes time to use it.

Rushing

Always take your time and consider the options before you purchase a bike saddle. After all, in most cases it is not an absolute necessity and you can usually get by on your existing saddle long enough to allow yourself the time to find the right one.

Considerations for Larger Cyclists

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Large Cyclist ImageCycling is a universal pursuit, which means that it should be enjoyable for people of all shapes and sizes. Still, it is understandable that larger cyclists may struggle to find the right bike for them, as many regular bikes are built with average body types in mind.

Larger cyclists (200 pounds and over) will need to consider a number of factors before they select the right road bike for them. Here we will take a look at some of the things that you will need to look out for if you fall into this category.

Saddles

Bike saddles can be uncomfortable at the best of times, so it is important to find one that offers the most amount of support possible, particularly if you are intending to cycle on a regular basis.

The first thing you should look at is the saddle width, which should be capable of providing support for both of your sit bones so that you don’t end up sliding from one side of the saddle to the other. A general rule of thumb is that those with slightly larger posteriors should look for a wider saddle, as they may find that regular saddles simply don’t offer the support that they need.

The material used in the saddle is also a big factor. While many will want to opt for foam saddles in the belief that they provide more cushioning, they are also more prone to wear and tear, which means you may find yourself replacing them sooner rather than later. Larger individuals may find that they are better served by a leather saddle, as they are more able to withstand the rigours of everyday use.

Wheels

With the right saddle in place, the larger cyclist will then need to consider the wheels of their bike. All wheels have a set weight limit, which means they are liable to bend and distort if the person riding the bike exceeds that limit.

If you are concerned about this being an issue for you, the best first step is to speak to a professional bike fitter or your local bike shop and get their opinion. They will be able to provide you with more information about the recommended weight limits for different types of wheel, allowing you to pick the right ones for your body type right off the bat. This not only saves you money in wheel replacements, but also ensures you experience a much more safe and comfortable ride.

Frame Material

The majority of modern bike frames are tested with an average weight of 185 pounds in mind, but in reality they will be able to handle quite a bit more than that.

Still, if you feel that the frame may be a problem, it is recommended that you consider the material the frame is made from before making your purchase.

Steel offers the most amount of strength and is still pretty compliant. The only negative about steel is that it is somewhat heavy. Heavy just means a better workout!

Titanium is nearly bulletproof, it is stiff but has a decent amount of shock absorption. The downside is it is relatively expensive and very difficult to repair.

Aluminum is very stiff, maybe a little too stiff making the ride a little too harsh. You would have to decide for yourself.

Carbon Fiber can be made to whatever strength, stiffness or design the creator sees fit. Cabon Fiber is usually the best bet, but it is also the most expensive. There are bikes specifically designed for bigger cyclists, make sure you ask before you buy.

For more detail about the pros and cons of carbon fiber vs aluminum vs steel vs titanium read this article.

Clothing

Most modern cycling gear is created with keeping the rider cool during their journey in mind. While this is a little more difficult for larger riders, in most cases you will find the right choices in gear makes a big difference.

Try to keep to light-coloured clothing made using a breathable material, such as Lycra, wherever possible. You should also never, ever forgo your helmet, even if it makes you feel hot when riding. Again, lighter colours and plenty of vents in the helmet will help to mitigate this issue, as will ensuring you are properly hydrated throughout your journey.

Saddle Tilt

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Saddle tilt

The saddle tilt angle up or down while cycling on a road bike can make a big difference. If improperly adjusted it can cause knee or back painThe saddle tilt is an important adjustment that needs to be taken into consideration. Lets take a look at what happens when the saddle angle is in the up, neutral and down positions.

Saddle Tilted Down

If the saddle angle is pointed down too much then there will be unnecessary pressure on your knee and upper body. Your knees are trying to hold you from sliding forward and are more susceptible to injury. Additionally, your upper body is now being enlisted to hold you back as well, instead of being relaxed and focused on proper breathing.

How much of an angle is too much? As little as a 3% saddle angle downwards is too much.

If you find yourself riding on the front part of the saddle often it is usually to alleviate the pressure on the knees, shoulders, arms and hands; however, you do not have adequate support from the saddle and this will cause problems.

Why Do People Tilt Their Saddle Too Far Down?

The most common reason people tilt the saddle angle down is to alleviate pressure on the groin, this is not a wise solution, find a saddle that fits properly and is able to support your weight without pain or numbness.

Many people have no idea that saddle tilt is a very big deal at all and take the bike as it comes from the shop… I did not have a clue when I bought my first bike.

Saddle Tilted Up

When the saddle angle is tilted upwards you may earn some unwanted lumbar pain as your pelvis is angled backwards and you forced reach forwards to the handlebars – this creates a weird and unnatural angle and stress point causinging lower back pain.

Since the pelvis is tilted back it will feel as if you have to reach for the handlebars and this can cause neck and shoulder pain. Another symptom the saddle angle is too far up is groin pain or numbness caused by unnecessary pressure around the soft tissue by your “special” area.

Why Do People Tilt Their Saddle Too Far Up?

The most common reason people tilt the saddle angle too far up is to keep from sliding forwards. It can be a vicious cycle, you tilt the saddle down to alleviate pressure on your groin, but then you start to slide forward too much and so you raise it too much… buy a proper fitting saddle and only make adjustments 1 degree at a time.

Saddle In the Neutral Position

A saddle in the neutral position allows you to keep your pelvis in a neutral position, which in turn, allows the proper alignment of your knees and optimizes the efficiency and enlistment of the quadriceps, gluteus maximus, gluteus medius, soleus, gastrocnemius, and hamstrings muscles.

As you can see, a small thing like the proper saddle tilt can make a big difference in comfort, efficiency and injury prevention. Make sure you have your saddle in the neutral position, or as close to it as possible.

If you climb a lot, perhaps you will want the nose to tilt down a slight bit, or vice versa for downhills. I ride with my saddle tilted down 0.5 degrees and find it just right. If you have a saddle tilt of more than 2 degrees up or down then you need to make other adjustments to feel comfortable as it is not the tilt that is the problem.

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