Bike Safety - I Love Bicycling

Bike Path Etiquette – Wheels Yield to Heels

December 24, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

Multi-use paths are springing up everywhere, and that’s a good thing, but you need to practice good bike path etiquette. For cyclists, bike paths are probably one of the fastest, most convenient way to get around busy cities. They go over or under busy road ways and other slow areas while keeping you safely out of traffic. They can be dangerous however and a pain if users don’t know how to properly use them. As a cyclist, you need to account for your speed as well as make your intentions clear. These few tips will help you to have proper bike path etiquette.

Bike Path Etiquette – Show Respect

There’s nothing like the feeling of glassy, smooth pavement that’s flat and straight with minimal stop requirements. But that doesn’t mean you should go as fast as you possibly can. Depending on ability, many cyclists easily top out at speeds greater than 20 mph. Bike paths are for everyone however and to stay safe, keep those around you safe, and avoid irritating everyone else, you should show respect to fellow cyclists, dog walkers, joggers, photographers, equestrians and everyone else that uses bike paths.

Not a Time Trial

Abandon your time-trial attitude. It’s fun to go fast, but a bike path isn’t the place to set records. It’s fine to crank things up a bit if you have clear sight lines with no pedestrians, but as a general rule, keep your speed under control. Most of the bike paths in cities have speed limits which may or may not be posted. However, longer bike paths that stretch on for miles through the country side can be different, with unlimited speed limits. Feel free to open it up if you can’t see another sole and conditions permit it.

The Stealth Mode

It seems easy enough to swerve in and out of pedestrians or other slower cyclists, but it’s necessary to view it from the pedestrians angle; bikes are quiet, especially at high speeds. When a bike appears out of nowhere from behind, it can give someone big startle, even when you don’t pass that close. Proper bike path etiquette gives ample warning that you are passing long before you are next to them.

Ride Like a Car

With concentrated traffic on a bike path, it’s not always possible to stay in a regular line and swerving between people is sometimes necessary. Think of it as a highway, and apply the same principles as if you were in a car. Ride on the right side. Pass on the left. Act like a car in these situations. Right for travel, left for passing. And obey all traffic signals.

Verbal Warning

It’s common practice to yell, “on your left!” when approaching other cyclists or pedestrians. If they don’t move over yell it again. If they still don’t move or choose to ignore you, slow down to a crawl and ease by them if possible, but only if they give you enough room. If you’re a regular path rider, install a small bell or horn on your bike; it’s sure to wake up a sedentary or stubborn pedestrian.

Hand Signals

Stay in your own lane. Don’t wander all over the trail. Other cyclists not observing correct bike path etiquette might be coming up behind you; just because you’re doing it right doesn’t mean everyone else is. Before you swing out to pass on the left or hit your brakes to stop, throw out a hand signal, and glance behind you for oncoming bikes.

Intersections and Pedestrians

Be especially careful when crossing a roadway, intersection, or pathway. On a bicycle, you do not automatically have the right of way over vehicles on the road you’re crossing like a pedestrian. If you dismount and walk your bike across an intersection, you become a pedestrian, and have the right of way. Look for subtle paths that cross the path you’re riding on, some have markers, some don’t. Always be aware of pedestrians or other cyclists coming at you from the side.

Don’t Stop in the Middle

Don’t stop in the middle of the path and stand there like you own it. It’s one thing to stop to take pictures, take a drink from your water bottle or simply take in the scenery, but stopping in the middle only puts you in harm’s way. You wouldn’t stop your car in the middle of the road would you? Pull over to the side when taking a break; don’t do it on your bike. If possible, get off the path; but only when it’s allowed by your local path rules. It’s just the right thing to do.

Be Prepared to Stop

People are unpredictable; dogs and kids especially. Anyone can get involved in a conversation or wrapped up in their own thoughts and come to an abrupt halt in front of you, even if they hear you coming. Slow to a walking pace around traffic and keep your hands on your brakes.

Bike Integrity

You should have a fully functioning bicycle when cycling on pathways. Nothing’s going to help you if your brake cables snap or your chain falls off at the wrong time or a sharp edge catches a pedestrians clothing. Make sure your bike is well maintained before taking it out on a long ride. Check your brakes and tire pressure before you leave and if something doesn’t feel right, fix it right away.

Dusk to Dawn

If you feel that you might be out after the sun goes down, the single most important safety aspect is visibility. Install or keep some cheap magnetic lights on your bike or in your saddle bag. Wear bright, reflective gear, or add reflective tape to your bike. Pedestrians look like shadows in the night, if you can’t see them, maybe they can see you. This is not only important for bike path etiquette but for riding in general in low light conditions. Stay safe; always.

Yield to Heels

Bikes are big machines on paths. They’re faster, more efficient, but can also be the most dangerous. Always yield to pedestrians no matter what the circumstances. “Wheels yield to heels” is the unsung motto for cycling on any path, sidewalk, or highway for that matter. Follow the adage and proper bike path etiquette and you can’t go wrong when cycling on pathways. Get out there and enjoy them, they’re made for you.

The Golden Rules of Road Cycling

December 17, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

Road cycling has a long history of rules, originating from a long history of cycling. Almost every unwritten rule is governed by tradition and a regard for safety and consideration of other cyclists and vehicles. Most of the golden rules of road cycling have evolved out of necessity while some of them are tradition for tradition’s sake. There are no cycling law policemen and you won’t be in trouble for not following the rules but you will be safer, make more friends, and have more fun by following the golden rules.

Rule #1 of The Golden Rules of Road Cycling: Ride How You Want

Road biking is not always competition. You don’t have to be faster than other cyclists and there will always be faster cyclists. Ride how you want to ride. If you want to get faster there are a set of golden rules specific to training rides. Set your own pace, especially if you’re new to it, until you get some miles in your legs, lungs, and heart. Self-confidence doesn’t build overnight. One day you’ll look back and realize how far you’ve come.

Rule #2: Build Endurance

Serious road cycling requires endurance. Get accustomed to getting out on your bike regularly. Build it into your way of life. Road cycling requires a routine just like getting up in the morning, going to work and eating dinner. Prioritize it.

Rule Three: Change it Up

Don’t ride the same route every time you go out. A huge part of cycling can exploring new roads and places. Vary your rides, even if it takes you on hills you’d rather avoid. Include a variety of routes that are easy when you’re not up to it, and harder, longer rides when you have the time and mind-set.

Rule #3: Be Courteous

Courtesy is a key component for staying safe on the road and acting respectfully towards others who share the road with you. Respecting the golden rules of the road makes motorists and fellow-cyclists reciprocate, and they respect you in return. Motorists and cyclists have a tenuous relationship at best, so sharing the road with respect and courtesy eases tension.

Rule #4: Believe in Yourself

Keep at it when you’re out there all by yourself, and the road seems never-ending. Believe in yourself. There will be times when you doubt your abilities and goals. Don’t give up on them. All cyclists have have bad days on the bike. Don’t let them affect you or your motivation.

Rule #5: Sick Days

Don’t ride when you’re sick. It’s one thing to get out there when you’re tired; it almost always makes you feel better. But don’t try to ride off the common cold or fever, it might make it worse. Take care of yourself. Rest and ride another day.

Rule #6: Obey the Law

Road bikes are subject to the same laws as motorists, follow them. You have the same rights and duties as drivers. Your safety, and the well-being of those around you depends on you interpreting the law in a predictable manner. Obey traffic signals and stop signs. Ride with traffic. Use the right hand lane headed in the direction you are going. Pass on the left.

Rule #7: Claim Your Space

Make it clear that you plan to use your portion of the road – whether its 36-inches from the curb, or an entire lane wide. Don’t hesitate to claim the entire lane if there is no bike lane or the side of the road is rough, full of debris or missing completely. Bikes are vehicles and have a legal right to be on the road. Claim your space.

Rule #7: Be Predictable

Make your intentions clear to other cyclists and everyone else on public roadways. Ride in a straight, consistent line. Don’t swerve unnecessarily. If you’re riding with other cyclists and you do need to suddenly swerve to avoid an obstruction, make it clear with as shout while pointing at the obstruction so they know to avoid it behind you. Signal with your arms for turns. Glance behind you before turning or changing lanes.

Rule #8: Stay Aware

Keep your head up in traffic or congested areas. Anticipate what other cyclists might do, as well as drivers and pedestrians. Watch for turning vehicles and ride outside the open-door zone of parked cars. Read the traffic. Try to anticipate what’s likely to happen and scan behind regularly. Watch for signs of cars pulling out or looking for a parking spot. Look out for debris, potholes, and other road hazards. Cross railroad tracks at right angles.

Rule #9: Be Seen

Assume that you are invisible to motorists. Do whatever you can can to enhance your chances of being seen to avoid accidents. Ride where people and cars see you. Wear bright clothing. Use lights in low light conditions with a white light on the front and a red rear light. Make eye contact with other cyclists and pedestrians. The article “Bikes Versus Cars, How to Ride in Traffic” can give more insight into safely riding with traffic.

Rule #10: Be Ready

Keep your bike in good working condition. If you’re unsure how to do basic maintenance, practice on your bike at home, or have it serviced by a professional. Check that your tires have enough air; check that your brakes are working, chain flows smoothly, and always check the quick release levers on your wheels. Learn how to fix a flat and carry all the tools and supplies needed to repair your bike and get rolling again. And of course wear a helmet.

Rule #11: Get Involved

It’s one thing to prefer riding by yourself and getting out there in your own space. But there also is a whole world out there of cycling that you could be missing out on. A culture of like-minded cyclists just waiting for you. Build friendships, share stories of your experiences. Balance is key.

Rule #12: Challenge Yourself

It might not seem possible at first, but you’re capable of doing more miles than you can possibly imagine. Challenge yourself. Gain motivation by enrolling in a long-distance ride event. The motivation gained by a simple mark on the calendar will promote you to ride harder and longer. When the event arrives, you’ll be ready to rock and roll. During the ride, take a look at those other cyclists around you. You’ll notice the pain, exhilaration, and exuberance that you’re feeling is shared equally. It’s a feeling you will never forget and constantly seek to be returned to.

The golden rules of road cycling will allow you to be safe while further enjoying your road riding experience. Some you don’t need to follow and may not want to but if you do, it can help your riding experience as well as those around you. Follow the golden rules of road cycling and you’ll set yourself up for a lifetime of great riding.

The Golden Rules of Mountain Biking

December 17, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

The golden rules of mountain biking are far less strict than those of road biking for one reason in particular — it’s more of a solitary sport. It’s just you and the bike and if it is more than just you, it’s relaxed with everyone there for a good time.

Free Spirited

Cycling on public roadways is governed by strict rules. It’s because of road cycling’s heritage, and the fact that the roads are shared with motorists and other cyclists. Mountain biking, with its devil-may-care freewheeling attitude, is more like the unwritten code of the west, the last of the cowboys, or throw caution to the wind.

On Principals

It’s one thing to say that there are no rules in mountain biking, but those who do it on a regular basis know that to stay safe, certain principals apply that help keep the rubber side down.

Test Of Time

The golden rules of mountain biking are not written in stone but rather in mud that may get washed over a bit with the next rain. Instead of thinking of them as rules that you must follow, think of them as dos and don’ts, or suggestions that have withstood that last rain storm.

Of course, if you’re riding a mountain bike on pavement, the same rules of the road that apply to road bikes, cars or other motorized vehicles also apply to mountain bikes. But when you’re out there, careening down the side of a hill, the golden rules of mountain biking are there, for the most part, to keep you safe, and to provide you with the most fun.

Rule # 1 of The Golden Rules of Mountain Biking: Look Where You Steer

It’s a fact that you go where your eyes are looking. Don’t focus on things you want to miss. Look where you want your wheels to go. In other words, if you focus on a large rock in the trail, it’s likely you’ll clip it with your derailleur as you pass by. It’s an easy rule to say, but a hard one to accomplish. Think of it like this; your wheels follow your eyes. Another example is ruts; you see one on the left, and choose a line to the right. There’s no need to keep looking at the rut out of fear as if you do, you’re likely to end up in it.

Rule #2: Scan Ahead

After consulting rule number one, continue scanning ahead. Dismiss obstacles that won’t bother your line. Reach forward with your eyes as far as possible while maintaining control of the bike. This rule varies depending on conditions; if you’re swerving in and out of trees, focus on scanning the next move no matter the distance. If you’ve got wide open trail, scan as far as you can, but stay in control. Don’t look down unless you absolutely need to. Looking down serves no purpose, and takes focus off of the trail.

Rule #3: Two up, Two Down

Ride with two fingers on the brakes at all times. Use the other two to steer. Get used to this position. It allows you to steer and brake simultaneously the instant you get in trouble or to avoid a nasty collision with an obstacle. The constant pressure on your brakes also allows you to feather the back brake for corners or trim it slightly for more control when you get moving too fast. When you get good at it, it’s fine to use your back brake for controlled slides around corners. But do so only if you’ve practiced the maneuver.

Rule #4: Decision Making

Things happen fast on a mountain bike. Be ready to change your gears, your position, your speed and your mind instantly. Be ready to apply your brakes if needed, swerve or jump your bike at high speed. There’s not enough time to think about what you’re going to do and you’ve only got a split second to decide your next move. Never hesitate to change course if needed. If you get into trouble, brake, swerve or hop, you’ve got to do something; just do it.

Rule #5: Embrace Momentum

Momentum is everything on a mountain bike.The more momentum you can maintain while staying in control, the easier everything becomes. You should begin to feel a certain flow up and down through depressions and over humps. Momentum gets you through loose stuff and over technical bits along with sweeping you out of corners with centrifugal force.

Rule #6: Posture Forward

Position your body weight more toward the front of the bike when either sitting or standing. The forward-torso position keeps your center of gravity lower on the bike. The position is gained by using your elbows and knees to act as suspension which brings your chest toward the handle bars and stem. This position assists the bike to turn sharply and brings extra traction to the front wheel.

Rule #7: Stay in the Saddle When Climbing

When climbing, bring your head and chest toward the handle bars by bending your elbows, similar to rule six. Slide your butt forward on the saddle to keep the bike tracking in a straight line. This position also stops the bike from wandering across the trail and keeps the front wheel on the ground as you apply torque to the pedals. If you stand up it offsets your balance, reduces your traction, and your heart rate jumps.

Rule #8: Learn to Hover (Stand, don’t Sit)

The hover or standing on the pedals with your knees bent could be considered the all-round best body position for all purpose mountain biking. The hover position is the most comfortable and allows for the best control of a mountain bike in rough or technical terrain. Stand up with your legs and elbows bent; these are your shock absorbers. Your torso should be slightly forward. Pedals at the at 3 and 9 o’clock position, also known as the platform. Hold this pedal position unless you’re negotiating tight corners. Reacting from this position is a simple process of shifting your weight from side to side, forward or back.

Rule #9: Descending

What goes up, must come down. The torso forward position in rule number seven is reversed. As you begin to pick up speed on the downhill, keep your butt as far back on the saddle as possible without losing control of the bike. Hover or sit in the saddle, depending on conditions, but try to keep the weight to the back of the bike. Too much weight forward can cause the dreaded endo.

Rule #10: Trail Etiquette

Despite being on trails with far less people than the roads, you are still likely to come up on another rider, hiker, or horseback rider and respecting others is the golden rule of “Golden Rules”. Horses always have the right of way and when you come up on them, make sure the rider knows you’re there and give them space to pass. You don’t want a horse freaking out on the trail. Hikers will often give you the right of way as it’s generally easier for them to step to the side of the trail but they are by no means required to do so. Make sure they know you’re coming and slide to one side of the trail to let them pass or if they let you go, give a heart-felt thanks. If you come up on another rider, the one traveling uphill always has the right of way. Slow and give respect. If you come up on another rider from behind make sure they know you’re there. Give a “Hi there. Passing on your left.” or whatever the situation warrants.

Following “The Golden Rules of Mountain Biking” will allow you to ride and navigate the trails with precision and finesse keeping you safe as well as those around you. You don’t have to follow what’s written in mud but as a mountain biker you will want to. Who doesn’t like mud anyway?

The Golden Rules of Cycling

December 12, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

There is no book, no golden tablet, no ancient scriptures, nothing carved in stone regarding the golden rules of Cycling. It’s a basic interpretation by each and every cyclist. The golden rules of cycling manifest out of courtesy, respect for fellow cyclists, respect for traffic law, self-respect, and respect for all other pedestrians who use public roadways. The rules help to provide cyclists with safety, attitude, posture and health. The common attributes go hand in hand with bike maintenance, preparation, and the improvement of skills.

Evolution and Rules

The unwritten Golden Rules of cycling have evolved with the sport, they are a blend of scientific research, opinion and common-sense. But even though the rules are not set in stone, they are applicable to each and every cyclist, every single time he or she gets on the bike. They can be regarded as suggestions, but if applied universally, cycling is safer and more fun. What may be even more important, the application of rules puts a good face on the great sport of cycling, and gives inspiration to non riders.

Cycling Diversity

Cycling rules are not isolated to a single discipline. Mountain bikers, road riders, tri-athletes, the common cruiser, vintage, group riding — which have a set of rules all to themselves — are all covered by the basic cloak of golden rules.

Discipline and Rule

With all the disciplines of bicycling in general, each category has it’s own set of specialized rules that typically don’t cross-over to any degree. For example: Mountain bikers have specific rules. Road riders have specific rules. The golden rules of cycling are general rules that can be applied universally to all cyclists.

Rule One: Just Ride

Regular rides build endurance. Don’t feel that you have to belong to a single discipline. Doing so cuts down your options. The natural imbalance of confining yourself to one bike, or one type of biking cuts down your time on the bike, and your opportunities to ride. If you’re training for a specific race, doing miles on a mountain bike can give you better climbing skills. Doing miles on a road bike builds your endurance.

Rule Two: Priorities

Cycling should be near the top of your priority list. Ride daily if possible, even if it’s only a few miles. It’s okay to skip a day or two when you have to, but if you prioritize your work schedule to allow for it, you’ll be happier, sleep better, and become an overall healthier, better, more aware cyclist. If the weather is miserable, tell yourself that you’ll only ride for 30 minutes. If you’re still miserable turn around. You’ll have logged an hour on the bike.

Rule Three: Don’t Ride Sick

Even a common cold is going to be exacerbated by riding your bike. Listen to your body, it’s trying to tell you something. Rest up and don’t ride again until you’re feeling better. And when you do get back on your bike, take it easy.

Rule Four: It’s Not a Competition

You don’t have to beat everyone. Drop the time-trial mentality. Most cyclists are just out there to have fun, but when another rider blows past them at 25 mph, it often starts a competition that some riders don’t appreciate, yet, can’t help but take up the challenge. There’s nothing more frustrating that hot-shot riders constantly challenging you.

Rule Five: Free Your Mind

Leave all your worldly thoughts behind you. Do all your worrying about finances, relationships, career etc, before you get on your bike. Once the pedals start to turn, cloak yourself in the sensations of how your body and bike feel together. Take in the scents, the sounds and the feeling of the sun and wind on your skin.

Rule Six: Stop for a Break

Don’t be afraid to pull over. Cycling is an adventure. Stop for ice cream, lunch at a quaint cafe, a hole in the wall dive, candy shop, coffee shop or bakery. If you have no destination, plan your ride around some of these diversions, relax and enjoy it, you’ve earned it.

Rule Seven: Know Your Bike

Understanding how your bike works is important. Wear out your shifters, constantly changing gears when needed to maintain a certain cadence. Challenge your bike until you come to a certain comfort level with it. Your bike shouldn’t intimidate you in any way.

Rule Eight: Basic Maintenance

Learn how to adjust brakes and shifters. Don’t ride a bike that’s performing poorly, it only takes a few twists of a nut to fix most shifter issues. Get some books, go online. There’s thousands of tutorials out there for help. Use them.

Rule Nine: Tires

Top off your tires, or at the least, check them before every ride for proper inflation. Nothing can defeat effort like under inflated tires.

Rule Ten: Learn to Fix a Flat

Always keep a spare tube with you, and all the tools necessary for fixing a flat, and know how to use them. Practice fixing flats at home if needed, so that you’re not stuck out there with a flat tire.

Rule Eleven: Rules of the Road

Follow the same laws that motorized vehicles follow. Ride on the right, pass on the left. Stop at intersections, and proceeded only when doing so won’t endanger you or anyone else. Use hand signals when appropriate.

Rule Twelve: Respect

Respect fellow cyclists. A simple nod or wave of the hand is appreciated by everyone. Respect yourself.

Rule Twelve: No Traces

Leave nothing behind. Pick up and take any small wrappers, debris from a flat tire or anything else with you.

Rule Thirteen: Make Friends

It’s always a good practice to treat other cyclists like old friends. Make conversation, join groups. Promote your sport and enjoy it, good things are waiting for you out there.

Rule Fourteen: Know Your Body

Know your body. Fluid and nutrition are your fuel. The general rule of thumb is to drink before you’re thirsty, and eat before you’re hungry. The choice of hydration and nutrition differs for all cyclists, but you should stick with what makes you feel good, and you know without a doubt, that it won’t upset your stomach.

Rule Fifteen: Keep the Rubber Down

It is completely unacceptable to intentionally turn your bike upside down. Be aware. Don’t take chances, don’t be a hotshot, and may the wind be always at your back.

Riding on Asphalt

December 8, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

Nobody appreciates riding on asphalt more than cyclists. Some asphalt surfaces are as slick as glass and you feel like you’re on rails. Some have energy sucking qualities that make you work. Power, speed and heart rate increases just to reach a comfortable cruising speed. You may not appreciate how it’s affecting you at first, but as the miles pile up, you begin to notice. A little awareness can go a long way.

The Asphalt Life

Asphalt surfaces are not merely rough or smooth, they are complex formulas revealing their true nature to cyclists when the rubber meets the road. You’ve probably heard other cyclists refer to a certain road as “that rough stretch between point A and point B.” It’s because cyclists typically understand asphalt conditions better than anyone else, and talk about them more often.

What We Know From Cars

Tests performed by the Department of Transportation show that rough asphalt can produce nearly twice as much rolling resistance as smooth asphalt, causing cars to use 10-percent more fuel at a constant speed. You can imagine what it does to bikes.

The Output

Cars engines produce roughly 200-t0-300 horsepower. Your heart is the engine of a bike, typically producing less than one horsepower. So the cyclist is immediately aware of the resistance or ease offered up by various road surfaces. While the driver of the car may find asphalt to be a minor detail, cyclists who use their heart and muscles react to asphalt on a more intimate scale.

Exposed Aggregate

Exposed aggregate is a term typically applied to concrete surfaces, but it’s also recognized in asphalt. You’ve probably encountered it many times; rocks embedded in the asphalt, but not completely flush with the surface. It’s like rough sandpaper. the degree of exposed rocks can vary, but it’s like riding on rocks — because it is. It’s not always possible to avoid exposed aggregate, and you’ve got to do your best to just get through it somehow.

The Despicable Chip Seal

Chip seal is universally despised and feared by cyclists. You’ve no doubt encountered it yourself at some point. It’s nasty, with millions of sharp, loose rocks and dust. Chip seal is a base of soft asphalt overlaid with crushed stone aggregate. Cyclists dislike chip seal because it’s a rough, dusty ride. It’s slow going, and if you ride on it continuously, it can shred your tires, motivation and moral.

Trucks and Cyclists

Chip seal is so bad on performance that some trucking lines factor chip seal roads into their fuel calculations because the higher rolling resistance of chip seal consumes more fuel. Cyclists feel the roughness through their hands and butts, the resistance in the heart, lungs and legs.

That Smooth Strip

Chip seal doesn’t always extend the full width of the road, you’ve probably seen it before, a smooth strip alongside the chip seal. This is often the solution to riding on chip seal. It’s sometimes done by conscientious highway planners on purpose. Chip sealing the main traffic lane while preserving a strip along the shoulder saves money and gives cyclists a lane to ride on.

Speak Out

Some local Department of Transportation officials are aware of issues with chip seal and cycling. So it’s important for cyclists to speak up and express concerns in the planning stages of local repaving projects. If you’re in a position to do so, bring it up.

Cycle Paths

Cycle path surfaces are a different animal. They are designed differently from vehicle surfaces to provide the best surface available to bikes. Studies have been done that outline the best materials and procedures for bike paths.

Cement

Cement is typically not found on public roadways to any extent. Some cyclists swear that cement is a superior ride to asphalt, while others hate it. Cement can be rough, because road planners make it that way, with slight grooves to give cars better traction, and to prevent it from icing up. This type of grooved surface can cause your bike to wander from side to side, and is generally considered less desirable than pavement. In addition, cement may have regular seams that can jar your teeth.

Tips for Riding on Rough Stuff

The concept has always been that the more tire pressure, the less rolling resistance tires produce. While this is true for things like velodromes and glassy pavement, high-pressure bike tires dont work so well on exposed aggregate or chip seal. Some cyclists swear that you get a better ride on rough stuff by lowering the recommended tire pressure a few pounds in the front, and a little more in the back; you’ll need to experiment with it. Don’t lower it enough to get a pinch flat.

Relax and Ride

Start by relaxing the muscles in your face and shoulders, your body will follow. Keep your elbows slightly bent. Locking your elbows is a recipe for disaster. Bending your elbows allows for quicker and more fluid steering of your bike over rough terrain. Hold onto the hoods or tops and sit on the rear of the saddle. Loosen your grip on the handlebars. A tight grip causes fatigue in your shoulders and hands. It can also cause you to oversteer if you hit slick gravel, and wash out your front end.

Pick Your Line

You’ll often see narrow lines of smooth pavement between exposed or rough aggregate; use them to your advantage. When one peters out, find another to ride on. It can require some studying to find them, but they’re almost always out there, waiting for you to ride on.

Gearing

High cadences tend to bounce you around on the bike. Try to maintain a higher speed – depending on how rough the road is, to help you glide over rough patches. Keep your cadence lower and pedal in a higher gear when possible.

Dogs – It’s You or Them

December 6, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

No matter how much you like dogs, when they’re trying to kill you, the love affair is over. All cyclists face a snarling dog at some point, and it’s not clear why it happens. One minute the dog is peacefully sleeping in the yard, the next minute he’s snapping his salivating teeth at your feet, a terrifying monster trying to tear your flesh off. What went wrong?

Natural Instinct

It’s not clear why a loveable, warm, furry dog can turn into a snarling beast just because you ride by on your bicycle. Some say that it’s the dog’s natural instinct to chase things running away from them. The dog’s natural instinct is to bite and shake prey that it has caught.

Territorial Defense

Others say it’s the sound of a bicycle that drives them mad. Some think it’s a territorial defense of the dogs property. Others contend that it’s just a bad dog, trying to bite anyone they can, bike or not.

Dogs are Fast

Dogs can hit 20-to-25 miles per hour much faster than you can on a bike, and hold it for at least a few hundred yards. If you’re coming to an intersection or otherwise slowing down, they can easily outsprint you from a slow start. If they catch up, you can’t outrun them fast enough to get out of danger.

The Ambush

Dogs often wait in ambush hiding, only to come up from behind and lock their teeth onto your ankle. This type of dog has likely done it before, and will do it again. Think of them as the stealth dog, staying in your blind spot until it’s too late.

A Few Tips

With all the rural, country miles cyclist do routinely, it’s a safe bet you’ll have dog encounters. But there are good and bad ways to deal with it. What works in one situation may not work in another. Cyclists have mixed results with dogs, because for the most part, they’re unpredictable. Understanding how they think is sometimes helpful.

The Broadside Hit

If it’s not his intent to bite you, there’s maybe even worse danger lurking: When a dog sees you, he typically comes running at you from the side, and turns parallel with your bike at the last second. Many cyclists go down hard when the dog skids on the pavement, and plows into your bike from the side, and then becomes entangled with the snarling dog. Its’ ugly. If traffic permits, drift over to the side, and give him room. It might be just enough margin of error to keep him from hitting you and sliding under your wheels.

Tail Up or Down

You may be able to out-sprint a bad dog if he is only guarding his territory, you can sometimes tell this by an easy gait, with lots of barking, ears and tail up — he only want’s to keep you away. A full on sprint with ears back, teeth out and tail down means he isn’t going to stop any time soon. If you’re going downhill, you may be able to outrun him, but he’s likely going to stay in pursuit.

The Stern Warning

Most dogs know when humans are angry. A stern shout of ” Get back!” “Bad dog!” “No!” “Stay!” or “Go home!” is sometimes enough to surprise them, making them hesitate just enough for you to get some distance between you and the dog.

The Side Kick

Even though it’s tempting, and you’d like nothing better than to kick the dog, it almost never works, and if you do manage to make contact, it typically never even bothers the dog anyway, and just offers him your foot and angle for him to bite. Besides that, you’ll have to unclip one foot from your pedals, which means slowing down and prolonging the confrontation. The other thing is, if you intentionally harm the dog, you could face potential liability.

The Rock Trick

If you have enough time to pick up a rock, or pretend that you’ve picked up a rock, raise your hand back like you’re going to throw it. This simple gesture seems to be recognized by most dogs and will stop some of them dead in their tracks. If you do have a rock, use it at your own risk, hitting a dog with a rock is almost impossible when you’re mad or agitated, and only makes things worse.

The Chase

It’s been established that the main motivation for the dog is the chase. If there is nothing to chase, the dog should lose interest. It is best to defuse the situation by removing the dog’s motivation to chase if possible.

The Most Common Option

If all else fails, you’ve lost too much speed, and it appears that the dog has the upper hand, stop and get off the bike as fast as you can. But make sure to stop in the road. Stopping on the dogs property will only make him more determined to get at you. Put the bike between you and the dog. Use your bike like a shield or weapon and start calling for help, cursing the dog loudly. Someone may eventually come out of the house, or keep the dog at bay. Call the police if you have to.

Eye Contact

The jury is out on this one. While eye contact may work on some dogs, immediately backing them down, others consider it a challenge, and it will only make things worse. If there’s more than one dog, this option is out the window.

Report It

In the event that you are attacked, bitten or injured by a dog, report it to the authorities as soon as possible. Include the location, an account of what happened and a description of the dog. Try to get the owners address and name, and seek medical attention without delay.

The Same Dog

If you’re intimidated, attacked or chased by the same dog in the same location every single time you ride, report this to authorities as well. You have every right to use public roadways free of fear. If it happens again, report it until steps have been taken to keep the dog where it belongs.

More Liability

In some jurisdictions, the law allows one “free bite.” This means that the owner won’t be held liable for the dog’s misbehavior until he’s made aware of the problem. After the first bite, the owner can then be held liable for any future attacks. But do not stray beyond any reasonable self-defense that would not be allowed against a human attacker. It’s tempting, but never retaliate against a dog.

Group Rides

Most dogs prefer to attack from behind like wolves taking down the weaker prey. Use this to your advantage in group rides by outsprinting your fellow cyclists — just kidding.

Cycling Law or Suggestion

December 6, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

Cycling law on public roadways has always been a source of controversy. Different assumptions, experiences, law and knowledge about cycling often results in a blurred distinction between universal law, common practices, and your location.

Cycling Laws That Don’t Work

Another confusion regarding the application of cycling laws centers around the fact that some local bicycle ordinances seem to actually make bikers and pedestrians less safe — such as requirements that bicyclists walk their bikes across intersections. Just visualizing this law seems dangerous. Since bicycle law can be different from one area to another, cyclists should familiarize themselves with specific laws where they plan to ride.

Rules of the Road

Generally speaking, bicycle laws are enforced at the state and local levels, and don’t apply universally. The overall consensus is that cyclists are expected to follow the same traffic laws that apply to motorists. Depending on where you live, laws and local ordinances typically cover stopping, signaling, passing on the right, helmet provisions, rules against cycling on the sidewalk, and some may include biking under the influence.

Getting Busted

Should you violate a cycling law, and get busted for it by a policeman, note that traffic violations are typically handled the same as for a moving violation involving an automobile. The ticket should indicate whether the violation involved a bicycle and should not affect your automobile insurance, hopefully.

The Stop Rule

One of first things to remember before cycling on the road is that you must follow nearly all of the same rules that you would while driving a vehicle. You must make a complete stop at red lights and at stop-signs, and go again when the light turns green. If you want to turn left, you may only do so if the light is green and there is no one coming in the opposite direction. You also must stop for crossing pedestrians.

The Idaho Stop

The Idaho Stop is a common name for a law that allows cyclists to treat a stop sign as a yield sign, and a red light as a stop sign. It first became law in Idaho in 1982, but has not been adopted elsewhere, even though it’s a common practice among cyclists. A form of the law called, “stop as yield”, deals only with stop signs, and has expanded to parts of Colorado and is being considered in other states. Advocates argue that the Idaho stop makes cycling easier and safer, and places the focus where it should be — on yielding the right-of-way. Opponents think it is less safe because it makes cyclists less predictable.

Stop Light Sensors, Not Bike Friendly

Most cyclist who’ve ridden in city traffic, or rural traffic with stop lights know that bikes don’t always trigger the underground metal detectors to change the light from red to green; bikes just don’t have the mass for it. In this instance, you can’t just stand there all day in the middle of the road, waiting for a car to come along and turn the light green.

Stopping Exception

Because cyclists don’t trigger underground sensors, some states have adopted laws allowing cyclists to proceed through a red light if the light doesn’t change due to the inability of the embedded sensors to detect them. These laws typically require the cyclist to confirm that there is no oncoming traffic, and that they wait a required amount of time before proceeding through the light. Check local ordinances in your area for this exception.

Signals Yay or Nae

Just as with vehicles, it’s important to show your intent, and let those around you know what your next move is. Basic hand signalling while on your bike is also typically required by law.

Left Arm Signal

To signal a left turn stick your left arm straight out from your side. To signal a right turn, stick your right arm straight out from your side.

Right Arm Controversy

The right arm out signal contradicts vehicle hand signals, but has proven to be safer for cyclists. Prior to the common sense approach of extending right arm to indicate a right turn, the conventional approach was for cyclist to extend the left upper-arm out to the left, horizontally and angle your forearm vertically upward. This practice is no longer in use. The Uniform Vehicle Code in the U.S. recognizes both, although it recommends the right arm out approach. State traffic laws generally conform to the UVC, but exceptions may exist. British Columbia, for example recognizes both right and left arm signals as appropriate.

Braking Hand Signal

The typical hand signal for braking — left arm out and down — is not always possible. It can be dangerous because both hands are needed to brake and stop. Cyclists therefore sometimes have to choose between giving a hand signal and covering the brake. This one is up to the individual cyclist, but any law that’s going to get you killed is questionable, and you should do what you think is best under the circumstances.

Passing on the Right

It’s common for cyclists to pass on the right when traffic is moving too slow, or if there’s an obvious bike lane on the right. General laws about passing on the right typically states that; ” Any person operating a bicycle upon a roadway at a speed less than the normal speed of traffic moving in the same direction shall ride as close as practicable to the right-hand curb.” Unfortunately, if you become involved in an accident, “passing on the right,” is most often determined by insurance companies or accident reports.

The Helmet Law

Most cyclists wouldn’t be caught dead without a helmet — no pun intended. But laws don’t apply the same when it comes to helmets, and it’s mostly age appropriate law. There is no blanket law that requires helmets for bicyclists of all ages, but many local ordinances do. Most jurisdictions require the use of bicycle helmets to some degree, typically for cyclists under the age of 16 or 18. Washington state, for example, has no state law addressing the use of helmets at all, but many of its cities do.

Sidewalk Cycling

Most state and local ordinances prohibit bicyclists over a certain age –12 or 13 — from biking on sidewalks, but they must always yield to pedestrians. However, some local ordinances allow bicycling on sidewalks and even prohibit bikes on certain streets. Check it in your city if you’re curious.

Lights and Reflectors

Cyclists are required to have red lights on the back, and white lights on the front, with white reflectors on the front and red reflectors on the back in virtually every state. Details vary with respect to individual state and local laws. This is one that’s likely to be overlooked the most often by cyclists, but that doesn’t mean it’s not the law.

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