Bike Safety - I Love Bicycling

How to Fix a Flat Bike Tire: Steps & Procedures

March 29, 2023 by Eric Lister

Seldom will you come across a more frustrating and annoying problem than the sudden deflation of your bicycle tire while out on a ride. A sure way to mitigate the stress of this inevitable situation is by familiarizing yourself with your bike and learning how to fix a flat all on your own.

While it may be intimidating at first, a few practice run-throughs of the steps involved can make all the difference when you have to do it in an unfamiliar environment, perhaps tired from the journey, or even after a resultant spill or injury.

A saying, attributed commonly to the Greek poet Archilochus, could be most appropriately referred to in our preparation:

“We don’t rise to the level of our expectations, we fall to the level of our training.”

So let us train properly! And learn one of the most fundamental skills any cyclist should know, one with the potential to get you home in any variety of sticky situations anytime out there on the road or trails.

(Image credit: Andrei/Adobe Stock)

Things to Carry With You

The following items should be carried with you so you’re prepared to fix a flat on your bicycle at any time in any place:

Spare inner tube (same size as your tire)
Patch repair kit
Tire levers
Pump

Once you have these items, the next step is learning where and how to use them. Here is how to fix a flat, step-by-step, using the tools above.

Step 1: Remove the Wheel

Depending on whether it is your front or rear wheel with the flat will vary this step a little bit. Regardless of which one, it will be easier to place the bike upside down resting on the saddle and handlebars so you don’t have to worry about balancing it while working.

Front Wheel

On modern bikes, the front wheel usually has a quick release lever that can simply be opened to free the front tire from the forks it sits in. It can also be helpful to release the brakes by looking for a caliper lever up near the top of the forks and opening it. This allows more room between the tire and the brake pads, making it easier to remove the tire.

Rear Wheel

A little more tricky, but easy to master with just a bit of practice.

Start by putting your gears to the smallest cog (gets the chain out of the way)
Then, as with the front wheel, open up the brake pads by using the release lever
Many wheels today have a quick release axle system, if this is present on your bike, you’ll have to open the lever to release the wheel
Pull the derailleur gently backwards to free the wheel
Remove the wheel and be sure it is free from the chain

These processes can vary depending on your style of bike, so be sure to refer to specific instructions or follow-along videos, and practice the procedure(s) prior to going out on the road.

(Image credit: Novak/Adobe Stock)

Step 2: Deflate & Remove the Inner Tube

To do this, first deflate the tire by locating the valve. Depending on whether you have a Schrader or Presta valve, the instructions to do this are slightly different:

To deflate a Schrader valve, simply press the small pin in the center of the valve.
To deflate a Presta valve, unscrew the top cap on the valve and then press down.

It’s not necessary to completely deflate the tire, we just want to create separation and provide room to help remove the tube.

This is where your tire levers will come in handy. Start directly opposite of your tire valve to avoid damaging the stem, and proceed to use the long end of one lever to pry the tire bead overtop of the rim. You can then anchor it to a spoke while you insert another lever two to three spokes down, and work the remainder of the tire out of the rim.

Pull the valve stem out of the rim, and remove the tube.

(Image credit: Maxky/Adobe Stock)

Step 3: Find the Problem

If you just plan to replace the tube with a new one, you can skip to step five, otherwise, we need to locate the problem so we can fix it. It may be obvious like a protruding object, or more minute like a pinhole rupture. Remove any visible insults to the tube, and if you can’t find where it’s leaking, you’ll have to do some more thorough investigation.

Two of the simplest methods to find the opening are as follows: Inflate the tube so it holds some shape, then cycle it slowly through water while looking for bubbles. You can also squeeze the tube gently as you rotate it near your ear, listening for any air that is escaping. Once you find the culprit, be sure to mark it so you don’t lose it while you prepare your patch.

(Image credit: Bulent/Adobe Stock)

Step 4: Patching

As mentioned in step three, determine whether it’s better to replace the old tube entirely. If there are multiple patches or the tube seems to be deteriorating because of age and frailty, more repairs may only further decrease its integrity. However, sometimes you don’t have a tube and don’t have a choice! Here’s how to patch your leaking one:

Patch kits will often contain a small piece of sandpaper, use this to rough up the leaking area for better adhesion of the patch.
Apply the glue generously to the affected area, give it a moment to set.
Place the patch firmly over the puncture, press down to help with adhesion.

(Image credit: Ole/Adobe Stock)

Step 5: Replace the Inner Tube

Inflate the tube to the point where it holds its shape but is still flexible and easy to maneuver, make sure it holds its air. Insert the valve stem into the valve hole on the rim. Starting from the valve, tuck the tube completely inside the tire all the way around.

Once the tube is inside, begin tucking the tire bead back over the rim. Use your hands to work around the whole perimeter, you may need to use the tire levers for the last bit. Be sure not to snag the inner tube with levers or by pinching it against the rim throughout this step. After you have the tire together, inflate it to the appropriate pressure.

(Image credit: Tatonka/Adobe Stock)

Step 6: Reinstall the Wheel

For the front tire, simply set it back into the forks and securely tighten the quick release lever. If it’s the rear wheel:

Position the top part of the chain over the smallest sprocket on the cassette.
Lower the wheel axle into the dropouts while moving the derailleur out of the way.
Securely tighten the quick release and close the brake caliper lever/reconnect the brakes if necessary.

It’s best to watch a video of this being done on your specific model of bike to get a better idea of how to do this part.

Step 7: Final Checks & Go!

Go over all the parts that have been manipulated to ensure everything is snug and back where it’s supposed to be. Double check that your tire pressure is good, check that your brakes are working, and make sure all levers are closed and tucked away into their riding positions. After that, you’re ready to go!

(Image credit: Clement C/Adobe Stock)

Again, be sure to practice this procedure several times at home so you can build the confidence to do it when the situation occurs. Fixing a bicycle flat is one of the most essential skills for any cyclist, and you’re well on your way to knowing how to do it yourself!

Thank you for taking the time to learn with us, and we wish you safe travels!

How To Prevent Injury Cycling

July 15, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

We all know the wonderful feeling of cycling, but unfortunately it’s not always sun on the face and wind in the hair. Pedalling is a low-impact motion, making cycling one of the best ways to stay fit without putting stress on your joints. However, poorly set up bikes, wipe outs, or simply the activity of cycling itself can take its toll on our bodies. Injury is a part of almost every sport, and cycling is no exception, but it’s also what makes it a challenge worth taking on. Although some injury is impossible to avoid, there are things you can do as a cyclist to minimize the risks and stay in your saddle for years to come. Here are some of the common risks and what you can do to prevent injury cycling.

Safety First

As cyclists we share the road with vehicles, and we have to do all we can to ensure the two can co-exist safely.

Maximize visibility – Assume that you are invisible to motorists. Do whatever you can can to enhance your chances of being seen to avoid accidents. Ride where people and cars see you, wear bright clothing, use lights and reflectors. Whenever possible, make eye contact with other cyclists and pedestrians. The article “Bikes Versus Cars, How to Ride in Traffic” can give more insight into safely riding with traffic.
Obey the rules of the road – Road bikes are subject to the same laws as motorists, follow them. You have the same rights and duties as drivers. Your safety, and the well-being of those around you depends on you interpreting the law in a predictable manner. Obey traffic signals and stop signs, and use hand signals to communicate any changes in speed or direction.
Be alert – Always pay attention to your surroundings and the road ahead. Look out for any obstacle or pot holes on the road to avoid any unexpected bumps. These can catch you off guard and cause a wipe out.

How To Prevent Injury Cycling

Broken Bones

The two most common broken bones for a cyclist are the clavicle (collarbone) and the scaphoid (a thumb bone). These are the bones that absorb the most force when you brace yourself in a fall. The obvious thing would be to avoid crashing altogether, but sometimes that is simply impossible. As you can’t really control whether or not you crash on your bike, you should at least know how to fall properly. It depends on what kind of crash is happening, for instance if you are going over the handle bars, try and get your hands out in front of you to brace your fall, tuck your head in and allow yourself to roll over the shoulder that has the leading arm out.

Road Rash

Sooner or later everyone will experience road rash, it’s a part of cycling, and almost a rite of passage into the cycling world. How you first handle your wounds will make all the difference in the amount of time it takes to recover. Treating the wounds correctly will save you a lot of pain and suffering if done the right way. Check out this detailed article on treating road rash to help make the process less painful and get you back on the road quicker.

Saddle Sores

Avid cyclists know this injury well. Saddle sores are caused by the friction between your skin and the bike seat during long bike rides. A bike seat that is too high and bike shorts that are too old with minimal protection are the most common secondary causes of saddle sores. You can avoid saddle sores by using chamois cream while you ride, especially if you’re a cyclist that moves around a lot. If you do develop saddle sores, you’ll likely have to take a break and treat with skin creams to ease the pain.

Lower Back Pain

Another very common cycling overuse injury is lower back pain. First, you have to understand why this occurs before taking action to fix it. While pedaling, the quadriceps pull the pelvis forward. To keep your body on the bike, your lower back resists that pull. It is an action that is not inherent to the design of your lower back muscles. The result is overworked lower back muscles that may cross into pain.

The best way to both prevent and treat lower back pain from cycling is to work on strengthening your core (transverse abdominal muscles) and glutes. A strong core will activate before any movement takes place in the limbs (like pedaling), and therefore takes the stress away from lower back and works to stabilize the motion.

Neck Pain

Neck pain can be caused by fatigue (just like lower back pain) or a poor bike fit and can be alleviated by strengthening exercises, stretching and a proper bike fit. Also, relax during your ride. A tight grip and tense posture will cause more pain in your neck than with a relaxed posture.

Numb Hands

Your hands go numb when nerves are being pinched, generally due to a poor position on the bike causing your hands to support too much of your weight or your hand position or wrist position is incorrect. To alleviate this common cycling injury tilt the nose of your saddle up a degree, make sure that your wrists and hands are flush with your forearms (no bends), and buy some gloves and better handle bar tape to spread out the pressure.

Foot Numbness or Tingling

Foot numbness usually occurs when the nerves between the bones under the ball of the foot become compressed. Besides numbness, symptoms can show up as cycling foot pain, tingling, bruising, or even a burning sensation. The likely culprit here is shoe fit, cleat position or socks. Particularly if the cleat is too far forward it can cause numbness, as it places pressure on the ball of your foot. Take the time to dial in your cleat placement, shoe fit and sock choice whether on your own, or with a professional bike fit.

Knee Pain

There are different types of knee pain that can point to different causes and, therefore, different solutions. The four main types of knee pain are anterior (front of the knee), posterior (behind the knee), medial and lateral pain (sides of the knee), and IT band syndrome. Some knee pain is a sign of an improper bike fit, whether it be cleat or saddle position, while some is caused by simple overuse or going too hard too soon. Regular and targeted stretching can be an easy solution.

Achilles and Patella Tendinitis

Another common injury that comes from overuse. However, this can also be caused by a poor bike fit and shoe cleats that are not properly positioned. Achilles tendinitis causes inflammation which in turn will cause you pain in your ankle. If you think this is developing, go easy on your training for a few days. After any exercise make sure you apply ice to the tendon to fight any inflammation you may have.

General Treatment and Prevention

Stretching

The most important thing for cyclists, and athletes in general, is to have a healthy range of motion and flexibility to move freely and efficiently. Stretching routines for cyclists can aid in aligning the thick and thin muscles back into their ordered state after movement, as well as remove the lactic acid buildup that causes soreness. Flexibility, or rather inflexibility, can lead to unbalance in the body and even cause the body’s structure to move out of alignment. Failing to properly stretch and maintain flexibility can not only affect you performance, but it will inevitably lead to injury and discomfort.

Strength Training

A common problem with cyclists is muscular imbalance. Some muscles become strong, while others are too weak to keep things balanced. By strengthening your muscles and connective tissues with strength training, you can keep your body balanced and even avoid some overuse injuries altogether. It can also help you maintain proper posture on the bike, as a strong core can keep your back nice and straight.

Bike Fit

Getting a proper bike fit is well worth the investment, or at least taking the time to fine tune things yourself. Getting everything adjusted just right for you will ensure you will be comfortable on the bike. You will be more efficient and have a higher degree of power and endurance. It can be overwhelming when you think about saddle height and angle, cleat position, handlebars, and so on, but it is worth taking it one piece at a time. It will lower the risk of developing any injuries associated with an improper bike position.

Bike Handling Tips for Spring Conditions

June 12, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

Early season riding conditions can be challenging. During the winter, a ton of grit and salt gets dumped on roads to keep them grippy and snow-free, and, come spring time, all of that stuff ends up in one place – the shoulder where you want to ride. Spring is also pothole season, as water seeps into cracks in the road and freezes overnight, opening up holes the size of the Grand Canyon on your favorite roads. There are a few simple bike handling tips to keep your skin off the road and your bike in one piece.

Take It Slow

This seems obvious, but it is easy to forget in the middle of one of your favorite descents. Slower speeds mean more time to react to what is in front of you. Slow down well in advance of corners so you aren’t braking hard while turning – doing so increases the chance of losing traction.

Move Into the Lane

Most of the road grit accumulates on the shoulder of the road, and you can avoid this by moving out into the travel lanes. Be VERY careful when doing this – think ahead, and don’t try to move out in front of a line of cars just before your corner. Wait for a large gap in traffic, and move out well into the lane, so cars aren’t tempted to try and squeeze by you. On long, switchbacking descents, I will usually just stay in the travel lanes to avoid having to move back and forth.

Relax

Hitting a small patch of gravel or wet spot won’t necessarily cause you to crash. Overcorrecting for a small skid of your back tire will. Staying relaxed and confident will help you ride through small skids instead of tensing up and turning the small skid into a huge wipe-out. You can build this confidence through other types of cycling – mountain and cyclocross riding will both give you the experience of feeling your bike sliding through turns, which will help you become a more confident road rider.

Avoid Obstacles

Be it potholes, glass, or ice, there is a lot of stuff on the roads that you and your bike would rather avoid. Your first key to avoiding this nasty stuff is to look ahead – the earlier you see something, the easier it will be to avoid. When you know what you want to avoid, doing so requires a bit of practice. Anyone who has managed to hit the only pothole on a clear stretch of road knows what I am talking about – your bike will tend to go where you are looking. If you are looking at that one pothole, there is a good chance you are going to hit it. Instead, work on keeping your eyes focused on the clear path you want to take, and your bike will follow.

Master the Bunny-hop

Sometimes, despite your proactive road reading and all of your best obstacle avoidance techniques, you just can’t ride around something. Often this has something to do with the 2 ton hunks of metal passing by on your left. This is when the bunny-hop comes in handy. Bunny-hopping is like jumping on your bike – both wheels lift off the ground for a split second. If you have never done this before, practice at slow speeds first. Clipless pedals make it much much easier and safer as well. When you do encounter something you can’t ride around, don’t try to jump too high – for potholes, your wheels barely need to leave the ground.

Keep these tips in mind when you head out on your next ride, and you will be well equipped to deal with whatever the spring roads will throw at you!

How To Tackle Tough Road Conditions and Start Spring Cycling

March 12, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

If you live somewhere snow has plagued the roads for the past eternity (months), then you may be getting excited to get out for some spring rides. There’s nothing better then hopping on your bike and making the most of the longer, brighter, warmer days. However, road conditions are a huge problem with spring cycling.

During the winter, a ton of grit and salt gets dumped on roads to keep them grippy and snow-free. Come spring time, all of that stuff ends up in one place – the shoulder where you want to ride. Spring is also pothole season, as water seeps into cracks in the road and freezes overnight, threatening to open up holes the size of the Grand Canyon on your favourite roads. There are a few easy things you can do to beat these obstacles, and stay safe during the spring cycling season.

Making the Most of Spring Cycling

Avoid Flats with Tough Tires

Nobody likes to change a flat tire, and the side of a road in a spring downpour is about the worst time to have to do it. It doesn’t help that this time of year seems to produce an abnormal number of frustrating flats. The culprit? Road grit. As it builds up on the side of the road, it collects all the little bits of stuff that would normally get blown off into the ditch – pieces of glass, metal shards, nails, etc. Normal, lightweight road tires get torn up in these conditions.

To keep you riding, a durable, puncture-resistant tire is essential. These tires have Kevlar fabric, or something like it integrated into the casing of the tire to strengthen it. Most major tire manufacturers offer at least one model like this. They won’t be the lightest, or the smoothest rolling tires, but they will take a beating. Check out Continental Gatorskins for a nice balance of performance and protection. The same company also makes even more durable (and heavier) tires – the GatorHardShell and the Grand Prix 4-Season. Other options include the Specialized Armadillo and Schwalbe Marathon Plus.

Look Out for Potholes

Weaving your way through the obstacle course that some spring roads tend to turn into can be a daunting task, but there are a couple of tricks that will help you out. The simplest is to look where you want to go, rather than looking at all the things you want to avoid. If you have ever managed to hit the only rock or hole on a nice smooth stretch of road, it’s probably because you were staring straight at it. Look ahead, pick your path through the debris, and then follow that path with your eyes. Your body will guide your bike there without you having to think about it.

As skillful a bike slalomer as you might be, occasionally there will be times that you can’t go around something. Maybe you are on a shoulder with cars to your right, or you might be in a group with other riders. Whatever the situation, you need to take alternative action. Enter the bunny hop. If you haven’t heard the term before, the general idea is to ‘jump’ your bike with both wheels leave the ground for an instant. This isn’t something that you want to try out for the first time at 25 mph on pavement, so find a grass field to practice on. Make sure you have mastered the movement before trying it on out on the road, especially when adding speed to the equation. Thankfully, with clipless pedals, the task is considerably easier. There are countless YouTube tutorials out there, but in short, you are going to ‘hop off’ your pedals (not literally, since your feet are clipped in) and then bring the bike up along with you.

Wear Layers

Spring can be a time of quick weather changes, so while you may head out on a ride in the sunshine, it’s always a good idea to be prepared for rain and wind. As far as clothing goes, that means layers, layers, and more layers. You want a warm base layer as well as a waterproof shell, gloves, and even waterproof pants if necessary.

Embrace the Fender

Grit and water aren’t much fun to ride through, and they are even less fun when it’s spraying up into your face as you’re riding. For this reason, fenders are your best friend for spring riding. They keep you (relatively) dry, grit-free as well as keeping all that same junk from getting into your drivetrain. This can reduce maintenance and keep your bike running smoothly. The type of bike you have will determine what your fender options are. For full-fledged race bikes, choices are limited since attachment points and tire clearance are minimal. In this case, the SKS Race Blade fender is one of the best options.

With lower-end road bikes, touring and commuter bikes you have many more options. Some people like clip-on fenders, since you can take them off at the end of the season to keep your bike looking slick. The downside to these are they won’t offer the same coverage and performance as a dedicated bolt-on fender set. Whatever you choose, it will be much better than going without fenders!

Clean Your Bike

Although fenders can help a ton to keep some of the dirt and grime off you and your bike, you should still give your bike a quick clean after every spring ride. It’s inevitable that it will cause wear and tear to your bike, which is why many cyclists have spring specific “beater” bikes, but this isn’t always an option. Check out this quick guide to a bike cleaning to keep your bike running smoothly.

Ensuring you are prepared both technically and mentally will have you jumping into the cycling season in no time. Spring riding can be some of the best rides, so don’t let the conditions deter you from getting out there!

Buying a Used Bike? How to Know if a Bike was Stolen

January 21, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

Buying a second hand bike can be a great option for a lot of people, but you want to make sure you aren’t buying a stolen bike unaware. Having your bike stolen is an awful experience, and by buying a bike no questions asked, you could be encouraging the behaviour just because it’s a good deal.

There are some red flags that you should look for when buying a second hand bike, and also some great ways for you to try to reunite the bike with its original owner if you think it is stolen.

Is the price too good to be true?

If the bike is stolen, a lot of times the thief is looking for a quick sell to get it out of their hands. If you don’t know a lot about bikes yourself, do some research on the make and model of the bike and what similar second hand bikes are selling for in your area. If this one is way below the average asking price, then there might be something going on.

Are there photos of the bike itself?

Sometimes sellers can be a bit lazy, and stock photos may be used in an online ad, but in a lot of cases this can be a way to avoid the bike being recognized. If there are only stock photos within the ad, email the seller and ask to see some photos of the bike.

Is the ad lacking detail?

This can go for both the ad and seller themselves. If things are kept overly vague, this is a red flag. Often when someone has their bike stolen, they will be looking online for it to show up for sale, so many thieves will keep the ad as broad as possible. The make and model of the bike should be included in the ad, and the seller should at least have an email or phone number listed.

Check the serial number

How to know if a bike is stolen — Places to look for the serial number.

If the seller won’t give you the bike’s serial number, walk away. The serial number can be checked within databases like Bike Index or Bike Register, so if the bike has been registered as stolen you can then take steps to involve the police. If the serial number has been filed off or covered in any way, this is also a sure sign that the bike was stolen.

Ask questions

You can never ask too many questions, and not just to check if the bike was stolen. Ask about any maintenance or work done on the bike over the past few years, and ask for the reason behind any mismatched parts. Is this a bike that would even fit the seller? Where is their favourite area to ride? If they don’t know much about the bike, or cycling in general, then that could be another red flag.

When it comes to taking a look at and even buying the bike, always pick a public place to meet and take someone with you. Don’t pay cash, but instead pay through something that can be traced like Paypal or an e-transfer, and get the seller’s name and phone number.

Buying a second hand bike is a great option, but you don’t want to buy a bike, only to realize it was stolen and be left with an empty wallet and no bike. So, do your homework ahead of time, and ask questions before even meeting up to look over the bike. Investing in insurance for your bike could also be a good idea.

If you do suspect a bike is stolen, contact your local authorities immediately!

Your Bike Tune-Up Checklist

January 2, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

You may not get rusty after not riding for a while, but your bike just might. Doing a regular bike tune-up is what will keep you cruising safely and comfortably, and will make your bike last for the long haul. Routine bike maintenance isn’t complicated, but it can take some dedication. When you’re headed out for a long ride, or are just pulling your bike out of storage, you may want to just hop on and go, but it’s better if you establish a pre and post ride routine that includes a little bit of TLC.

It’s recommended that you get a bike tune-up every 2000 miles, but it’s great to make a habit of checking things off this list.

Bike Tune-Up Checklist

Make Sure It’s Clean

You should always put your bike away clean, but if you happened to stash it away before giving it a good wipe down, take the time to clean it now. Use some degreaser to clean off the chain, chainrings, derailleur and cassette. Then use a wet rag to to give the whole frame a wipe down.

Check Your Brakes

Next you’ll want to check your brakes. First, look at the pads and check for signs of wear and tear. If you can see lines or metal poking through the brake pads, then it’s time to replace them. Adjust them so they are hitting the rim properly, and make sure the lever pull isn’t too loose or too tight. If you find they are grinding after being adjusted, you may need to sand them down or check your rims for imperfections. Take a look at your brake cable for wear, looking out for and loose strands or rust.

Check Your Seat

Check that your seat is firmly in place and hasn’t wiggled loose over the miles.

Tire Pressure

This may be a temping one to skip, but you should always check your tire pressure before heading out on a ride. To do this, use a gauge and match the psi to the numbers printed on the side of the tire (most will be around 120 psi).

Check Your Chain

Chains travel countless times over sharp gears, often under a heavy load. They wear out and stretch over time because of dirt, gunk and attrition. A little bit of chain stretch over time is ok and will always occur. The problem becomes when it stretches too far and the teeth on the cassette begin to wear out as well. Before long you will not only have to replace the chain but the cassette as well.

You’ll want to replace your chain every 1,000 – 2,000 miles, once a year, or whenever the chain is starting to show signs of wear.

Lube It Up

Make sure your bike is lubricated properly as it protects moving parts from excessive wear and tear (choose an appropriate lube for the riding conditions you’re in). On the other hand, make sure not to go nuts as too much lubrication will attract dirt and cause just as much damage. Allow the lube to soak in and then wipe any excess off with a clean rag.

Most importantly you want to lube the chain, but also all the other moving parts including brake and derailleur levers, and cables. You’ll also want to grease any threaded bolts such as the stem, derailleurs, and pedals. If you have any bearings apart, make they are all well greased.

Inspect Your Bike

Inspect the frame for cracks or serious dents that are more than just cosmetic. Specific areas to look at are the joints particularly around the head tube and bottom bracket. If there are any cracks, even if it looks like it’s just paint, take the bike to your local bike shop to be looked at by an expert.

Tips for Cycling at Night

November 23, 2019 by Sarah Lauzé

It’s easy to become unmotivated when the sun goes down, and the natural instinct to settle inside often wins out over any ambitious plans you may have. However, when the days start getting shorter, it can become impossible to fit everything into those few hours of daylight.

Cycling at night may seem daunting at first, but with the proper gear and research there’s no need to lock yourself in the basement with your wind trainer. In fact, it can be oddly addicting to whip through the night on your bike, and I want to help you get to that experience.

Why should I cycle at night?

Everyone has their own reasons for hopping on their bike in the dark, whether it be commuting to and from work or training for a big event. One of the main reasons I head out on dark cold nights is for the simple fact that it can be exhilarating and almost meditative. The roads are quieter, and with the absence of all the scenery you’d see during the day, you really focus in on your breathing and the sound of your wheels on the pavement. Plus, I find I feel like I’m going a whole lot faster in the dark!

Riding at night safely

Lights

The first thing you’re going to need are some good lights for both the front and back of your bike. Fortunately, new LED lights are both affordable and long-lasting for those longer rides. Drivers have to be able to see you to have enough time to react, so better to have too many lights than not enough. I would suggest at least two lights on the back (one flashing red and one solid light), and one bright light on the front.

If you’re planning on heading down any low light or country roads, you’ll want to ensure your front light is bright enough to light your path. Be sure that all your lights are fully charged before heading out with more than enough battery life for the duration of your ride, and it’s a good idea to have an extra backup light as well.

Reflective gear

You’ll want to pick up some reflective gear for both you and your bike. Luckily, cycling gear has come a long way in the past few years and there are some great options other than your typical safety vest to make sure you light up the night. Many cycling jackets include reflective strips, with some including full 360 degree coverage.

It’s been proven that drivers will notice the up and down movement of pedaling before the smoother movement of the whole bike, so it’s important to get something reflective on your pedals or feet. Reflective pedals, tape, shoes, or ankle bands are all great options to achieve this.

Plan your route

Whether it’s night or day, it’s always a good idea to plan out your route, but this is especially important when cycling at night. I always want to ride routes I’m familiar with, and that I know have minimal hazards like potholes or small shoulders.

As it’s rare to head out on a 3-hour night ride (not that it can’t be done), it’s a good idea to plan a route that will challenge you the most in a short period of time. If I go for an hour ride, I plan to hit at least a couple good climbs to make the most of the time.

Obey the rules of the road

Obeying the rules of the road becomes especially important when riding at night. Even if the roads are quiet never run a stop sign or red light, and always assume motorists cannot see you. During the day you have the benefit of making eye contact with drivers before turning and making use of hand signals, but at night you always need to be on the defensive.

The right bike

It’s fair if you don’t want to cover your new carbon frame with light mounts and reflective tape, so many cyclists choose to have a second, cheaper bike that will serve as their night ride.

Getting started

For your first ride you want to set realistic goals. You’re going to be a lot slower than you are during the day as you adjust to the feel of riding at night. If you head off down a completely unlit road, it can seem overwhelming to have things appearing out of the darkness as you ride, so better to stick to a well-lit route for your first few rides. Try out a lit bike path or roads with a bike lane and plenty of street lights.

Don’t let the the shorter days get to you and try out a night ride instead! You may just find it’s a whole other cycling experience that you can’t get enough of. For more on this, check out “Biking at Night – Light Up!“

How To Use Strava for Cycling

September 16, 2019 by Sarah Lauzé

If you’re new to the cycling world, then you may not have heard of Strava. The website and mobile app is based around using satellite navigation to track an athlete’s activity. Known as the social network for runners and cyclists, it is a great way to stay motivated, track your improvement, and get connected with the athletic community.

Like a lot of things with cycling, getting started can be intimidating. The app itself has a ton of features that many users don’t know about, or use to their fullest advantage, so here’s a breakdown for you.

Why you should use Strava

Everyone is doing it – Okay, so maybe peer pressure isn’t the best reason to use Strava, but it’s true. Most cyclists are using Strava, so don’t miss out on the party. You can keep tabs on your friends (and competition) as well as see where you stack up against the pros. It’s the perfect source of motivation with a side of humble pie.
It’s free – There is a Premium version, but the free version includes some great features that are enough for a lot of cyclists. With zero commitment, you have nothing to lose.
That community feeling – One of the most amazing things about cycling is the community that comes with it. Community is what helps you improve as a cyclist by learning from others and pushing yourself harder than you would by yourself. On Strava, you can create private groups for you and your crew. So, even if you’re not out riding together, you can stay in touch and even try to beat their time on a route. Through the comments, you can encourage each other and give kudos on a great ride.
Track your progress – There’s nothing better than feeling stronger and faster than when you started. With Strava you can track your progress over time through a variety of features. If you want to get technical, there is a training calendar for comparing your milage month to month to your heart rate and power data. You can also simply look at your heart rate over a ride that will show up as a “suffer score.” This score is based on your heart rate throughout the ride in comparison to your max heart rate. Using heart rate zones, this is great indication to how hard you were working (only available with Premium).
Motivation – Every month there are great challenges to join to motivate yourself to get out, no matter what the weather or how you’re feeling. You can compare yourself to the leaderboards, and even make it a goal to get on the board yourself.
Safety – Strava isn’t just a great app for cyclists, but for their friends and family as well. If you’re heading out on a long ride, you can use the beacon to share your location with someone. They can then track your progress and know exactly where you are if anything were to happen.

How to speak Strava

Segment

Probably the most popular feature of Strava, a segment is a section of trail or road that users create and name. Other users can then “race” for the best time for that particular segment. Climb segments are rated from easiest to hardest as 4,3,2,1 or HC.

KOM / QOM

The “King of the Mountain” or “Queen of the Mountain” is the fastest rider on a particular segment. It doesn’t have to be a climb, but could also be a flat or a descent. The rider with the fastest time will remain the KOM or QOM until someone gets a faster time and dethrones them. As fun as it is to ride for these titles, just remember that it’s not worth risking injury.

Achievement

Achievements are presented in the form of trophies, medals or KOMs/QOMs. When you upload your ride to Strava, it will be compared to other users. Tropies are for top ten placements on a segment, and medals are your best three times for a specific segment.

Flyby

The Flyby feature allows users to see if they crossed paths or road close to other Strava users. Depending on security settings, you may only be able to see athletes you follow. It can help you connect with cyclists riding similar distances in your area, and see where you stack up.

Suffer Score

Your “suffer score” is based on your heart rate throughout the ride in comparison to your max heart rate. Using heart rate zones, this is great indication to how hard you were working (only available with Premium).

Stravasshole

You know who they are. This refers to anyone who puts a segment goal or KOM/QOM before the fun and safety of those around them. Don’t get us wrong, Strava is fun to use and challenge yourself with, but it’s not the be all end all.

How to make the most of Strava

Try a new route

Using the heatmap feature, you can plot where you typically ride and how many times you’ve ridden it. Take a look at all the areas you’re not riding and start taking in some new scenery. You can also check out other user’s heatmaps in your area. Using the Route Builder, you can piece together a new route from some popular roads and segments mapped by cyclists in your area.

Get creative

With the ability to add photos, you can really document your ride and make it as personal and inspiring as you want. There is also the infamous “Strava Art” that is a ton of fun. There is a thin red line that shows your route, so think of yourself as the tip of the pencil and get drawing on the canvas of your city. Check out some of the best strava art here.

Join a community

As mentioned previously, joining a community of cyclists (whether physically or virtually) is one of the fastest ways to improve–and it’s also a lot more fun!

Adjust your privacy settings

When you’re uploading your routes anywhere online, you will want to adjust your privacy settings so other users can’t see exactly where you live. If you don’t, this could make you a target for bike theft. In your Strava privacy settings you can create a 1 mile radius privacy zone around your house so users can’t see exactly where you start and finish.

Track your commute

Keep your commuter miles separate from your regular rides to track your overall distance without affecting your other stats. When you’re heading to the office, you probably won’t be pushing for that KOM. The commute feature also helps build a database of where people are riding and even where more infrastructure may be needed.

What To Do If Your Bike Is Stolen

July 21, 2019 by Sarah Lauzé

Picture this: you come out of your house, the coffee shop, or work to find your beloved bike is missing. You’ll most likely stare in disbelief, willing it to reappear before your eyes as that sinking feeling settles into your stomach. Having your bike stolen is a terrible feeling, but unfortunately it’s a common one for cyclists around the world. Once you’ve accepted the fact that this has really happened, then it’s time to take action. No time to despair about the condition of humanity or reminisce about all those good times you had with your trusty ride. There may just be some hope at the end of the tunnel– here’s what to do if your bike is stolen.

What to do if your bike is stolen

Step 1: File a Police Report

You need to gather as much information as you can and either have an officer come take down the report, or head to the nearest station and do it yourself. You’ll need the make, model, and colour of your bike, as well as the serial number. If you don’t know your serial number, go take a look right now! Take a photo of it, write it down, and make sure you never lose it. If your bike has been stolen and you don’t have the serial number it will be much harder to track your bike down with absolute certainty. You should also include some photos of the bike with any distinguishing features with the report. Check the area for any security cameras that may have a view of where the theft took place, and see if you or the police can gain access to them.

Step 2: Register the Bike Online

The internet is a wonderful tool that needs to be used to your advantage at this time! See if there are any local registries available to you, and also put your bike up on Bike Index or SafeBikes.org. You’ll want to include the same info you included in the police report, being as detailed as possible. These databases can be used by police, and individuals to keep an eye out for your bike. Before you buy a secondhand bike, it is always a good idea to check online databases to ensure the bike was not stolen.

Step 3: Search Local Ads

This can be a full time job, but it can pay off big time. Keep an eye on Craigslist, local buy and sell groups, and any other platforms that a thief may use to try and sell your bike. Check out local flea markets and pawn shops. If you happen across your bike, don’t accuse the seller! Try to get as much information (address, phone number, etc) from the seller before handing it over to the police.

Step 4: Get Social

Spread the news about your stolen bike on all your social channels. The more people who are aware and can keep an eye out, the better chance you have of recovering your bike. Share a photo of you and your bike and get your friends to share it. These things can really pick up momentum, making it difficult for the thief to get away with selling the bike online.

Follow these steps and you may just be reunited with your bike. If not, it is a major setback, but don’t let it taint your love for the sport. Check out some of the things you can do to prevent your bike from being stolen, and always remember to write down your serial number!

Preventative Steps

Step 1: Use a quality bike lock

When you’re buying your bike, helmet, and everything else, a bike lock can be low on the priority list. Don’t be tempted by cheap bike locks! You’ll suffer a much larger loss if your bike is stolen, so do your research on some of the best bike locks out there. You typically want to stay away from thin cable locks.

Step 2: Always secure your bike before you leave

It’s tempting to just lean your bike up outside the store if you’re running in for some milk, but it only takes a couple seconds to steal a bike. Always lock your bike up, or better yet bring it inside with you whenever possible. As for at your home or apartment, always keep your bike either inside a shed or a bike lock up. Using a bike cover can also help your bike keep a low profile should bike thieves be scoping the area.

Step 3: Strava safety

If you are a Strava user, use the settings to create a privacy perimeter around your home or work place. You don’t want these places showing up on your ride maps as your start and finish points, as that can be an easy target for bike thieves. If you commute to work everyday, switch up where you leave your bike so it is less likely to be noticed and targeted.

Cycling Hand Signals

May 16, 2018 by Sarah Lauzé

Whether you’re riding solo or in a group, you need to alert those around you of your intended movements. Like when you’re driving a car and use lights to communicate, cycling hand signals serve as your turn indicators and brake lights. It’s important to know the proper hand signals to ensure both cars and other riders can understand what it is you’re going to do.

Many accidents occur from misunderstandings between cyclists and drivers, and either side can be quick to point a finger of blame. However, it is up to both to know and understand cycling hand signals and the overarching rules of cycling.

Stop

The most common hand signal to indicate you are slowing to a stop is to extend your left arm out to the left and angle the forearm vertically down from the elbow. There is some controversy around this, as if you are coming to a sudden stop, it means taking one hand off your brake and handlebar, which could actually prove more dangerous. If you are riding in a group and don’t feel comfortable taking your hand off your bike, yell a courteous “stopping” over your shoulder to warn those riding behind you.

Left Turn

Almost intuitive, to signal a left turn simply extend your left arm out horizontally. Be sure to do to the signal in advance to the turn (like you would in a car), not just when you are actively making the turn.

Right Turn

Historically, to signal a right turn you would extend the left arm out, and then up at the elbow. This practice is no longer in use to cyclists, and has been replaced with the simpler right arm straight out horizontally. The Uniform Vehicle Code in the U.S. recognizes both, although it recommends the right arm out approach. State traffic laws generally conform to the UVC, but exceptions may exist.

Passing on the Right

Quite often cyclists will be moving fast than traffic in dense areas, so be sure to stay about a meter from the curb or well within the bike lane where applicable. Although you do not signal passing on the right, always be alert. This is an issue that can still come to debate in court. Look out for cars backing out of parking spots and driveways, turning left across the road toward you, or turning right into you. The truth is, they probably don’t see you. Never ride on the left side of the road or on sidewalks, as this is both illegal and increases the risk of a collision.

Take a lane

If you are moving a similar speed to traffic, or need to make a left turn in the near future, then be sure to signal and get into a lane. This will put you in the position to properly navigate the intersection with the rest of traffic. Always remember, the same rules apply to cyclists as cars.

Commuting can be the best part of your work day, but make sure you get there and back safely by using these hand signals and staying alert. Never listen to headphones in traffic, and give plenty of warning for each action. For more information on riding safely in a group, check out “Group Ride Etiquette.”