Training Tips

Best Bike Stretching Exercises

January 11, 2018 by Sarah Lauzé

The importance of stretching really can’t be overstated, especially for cyclists. Bike stretching exercises can help maintain flexibility and prevent injury, and can be done even while you’re out on your ride or before you head inside after a ride. Long rides and intense training sessions can result in tight and sore muscles, and being sure you properly cool down and stretch afterwards can go a long way to prevent muscle tightness and discomfort.

Now, you’ve probably seen some cyclists in the Tour de France somehow managing a quad stretch while on their bike, looking something like superman. Although this can be great for ensuring your stretching those muscles out along the way, for most of us its a better idea to attempt these stretches in a stationary position. These bike stretching exercises can be done with the aid of you bike, whether during a quick break mid-ride, or right after before you put your bike away. It is a good way to get into a routine and ensure you always remember to stretch.

Quad Stretch

The quads are where a lot of your power comes from, and therefore are important to keep from getting tight. Place one hand on the saddle for support, and bend the other leg. Hold onto your foot or ankle , level your knees, and hold each side for 30-60 seconds. To increase the stretch, try tensing your glutes and pushing your hips forward, leaning into the stretch. Look straight ahead, or bring you chin to your chest and stretch the back of your neck.

Hamstring & Shoulder Stretch

This stretch is great for stretching out the hamstrings as well as releasing tension in the shoulders and upper back from holding the cycling position. Place one hand on your hand bars, and the other on your saddle. Step back and hinge over at the hips, keeping your back flat and engaging your core. You should feel the stretch all along your hamstrings, as well as in the shoulders. To increase the stretch, push your hips away from your bike until you feel a decompressing effect as the spine lengthens. Hold for 30-60 seconds.

Glutes

Lift one leg onto your other knee, placing your ankle on top of the other thigh, using your bike to steady yourself. Slowly sit lower and relax into the stretch, keeping your back straight and core engaged. To protect your knee joint, flex the foot of the leg being stretched to keep the knee joint from straining.

Upper Back & Calves

This one looks a little funny, but stretches your shoulders, upper back, calves and hips all in one position. Place your hand shoulder-width apart on your bike and lower yourself into a deep squat, keeping your arms straight. You should feel the stretch deep in your calves and in your shoulders the most, but you can try adjusting the positioning of your feet and hands until you hit those spots that need the most stretching.

Chest

The tense upper body position on the bike can make for a sore back, but over time it can also cause a shortening of the chest muscles and rounded shoulders. This stretch is great to do while you’re waiting at stop lights or having a water break. It will open up your chest and release tension. Place your hands behind your back and interlace your fingers, or hold onto your saddle. Lean forward slowly, keeping your back straight and core engaged, feeling the stretch in your chest.

Hip Flexors

Many cyclists suffer from tight hip flexors as they put in a lot of the work to lift your legs with each pedal stroke, so this stretch is important. Place both hands on the top tube of your bike, shoulder width apart. Step one foot back and bend the front leg as if going into a lunge position. Gently push your hips forward to feel the stretch in your hip flexor and in the thigh.

Best Road Bike Upgrades

December 31, 2017 by Adam Farabaugh

As a cyclist we are always trying to improve. Improve ourselves in our fitness, bike handling skills, and the level at which we ride. There is general idea in cycling that you don’t need an upgrade to get faster, but rather ride up grades. While it’s true there are no shortcuts to get faster, there are some road bike upgrades can help you along your way.

Fortunately you don’t need a lot of time or money to make substantial improvements on your bike. Making a few improvements can help your riding in many ways, but the biggest issue is knowing which one is going to give you the most benefit.

Upgrade #1: Comfort

The most important thing in riding is comfort. The more comfortable you are on your bike the more you’ll ride, so the first things that you should upgrade are things that improve how you feel on your bike. Whether your bike is an entry level road bike or a top of the line model, some of the features may just not be a good fit for you.

Saddle

The saddle on your bike is the biggest part that is going to give or take away from your comfort. It’s very important to have one that’s a good fit for you and your style of riding. The best way to find the right saddle is to ask around and see what other people have ridden and if they have one you could try (most all bike shops will let you try before you buy). Some key things to look for is how wide the saddle is as you want it to match up with your sit-bones, as well as how soft or firm it is. A new saddle doesn’t have to cost a lot of money either and any money spent on a saddle is a good investment in your comfort.

Shoes

Your feet are the second biggest contact point with the bike, so making sure they’re comfortable as well will go a long way. Cycling shoes can be a bit more expensive than a saddle, but they will last a very long time so the extra money you spend here will last you years. The key to finding the right shoes is fit. Feet come in all shapes and sizes and a lot of shoes have different styles of foot beds; meaning some are wider and narrower in different spots throughout the shoe. The best way is to try a lot of them on and find what feels the best.

Upgrade #2: Reliability

Depending on where you’re riding, having a reliable bike can trump comfort, so unless you can easily catch a ride home, invest in improvements that will keep you rolling no matter what is thrown your way.

Tires

The thing that will slow you down the most are flat tires. The best way to prevent this is by having a set of tires that are not prone to flatting and replacing them when they are getting close to worn out. A good starting point is to get a wider tire, 25mm to 28mm if your bike frame will allow it. This will lessen the likelihood of pinch-flatting. A tire with harder casing and harder rubber, will last longer as well as be less penetrable. If you want to lessen the likelihood of flatting even more, consider upgrading to a tubeless set up that uses sealant inside the tire to fill any leaks before all the air escapes.

Brake Pads

Another area of the bike that you should make sure is in top-notch are the brakes. Being able to stop quickly not only gives you piece of mind, but also can prevent unnecessary crashes. Replace your brake pads before they wear out. Not changing them has the potential to not only leave you without good brakes on a ride but also can potentially damage your rim which will cost much more to replace than what the brake pads would have cost you.

Chain

Although chains break relatively infrequently, they still break. If you’re mid-ride and without a chain tool to take a link out to get you home, you’re going to be asking for a ride. The best way to prevent this is to replace your chain before it becomes old and worn out. This will also save you from having to get a new cassette along with the chain as the chain won’t have stretched past the point where a new one won’t mesh with the old cassette.

Upgrade #3: Speed

Now that you’ve upgraded the parts to your bike that have the biggest impact on you, you can upgrade a few specifics to help you ride faster. The cheapest to ride faster is to ride more, but once you’ve done that upgrading your equipment comes next.

Helmet

A more aerodynamic helmet can save up to 1 minute in a 40 km time trial. Now, no self respecting road cyclist is going to go strap on an aero TT helmet, but the principle still remains. A more aero helmet will shave time off your ride and is your best bang for your buck. Just make sure the helmet has enough vents if you are prone to overheating.

Wheels

Your wheels can easily be changed and may be contributing to what is slowing you down. Cheaper wheels can be heavy as well as less aerodynamic. Depending upon the riding that you’re doing, choosing a lighter and/or more aerodynamic wheelset can drastically improve your speed on climbs and flat sections.

Wheels can go up in price past the cost of your bike, most likely, so you need to find a good balance of lightness to aerodynamics to cost. Typically the best are a clincher rim, to give you the ability to easily change a tire, with a moderate amount of depth and are fairly light with a lower spoke count. There are about a zillion wheelsets out there both in aluminum and carbon. A bit of homework is required to find your perfect wheel but it’s time worth spending if you’re looking to improve your speed.

Clothes

You may not think that clothing would have a significant effect on speed; however, a skin suit can save over 2 minutes on 40 km time trial. This emphasizes how important the clothing you wear can be. Scrap the baggy clothing and embrace the lycra bib shorts and tight fitting jerseys.

Upgrade #4: Style

The last thing to improve on your bike is how it looks. Some may think this should fall higher on the list of what to upgrade, but in reality it’s not how you look, but that you’re out there doing what you want and having fun. Even at the professional level.

Bar Tape

Having clean, well-wrapped bar tape will make your bike look much better particularly after it has been cleaned. Color is personal preference, but typically any colors other than black or white are only used if it goes with colors on the bike. White typically is the most professional, but keeping it clean can be hard. Having well wrapped bars with black bar tape is the best style as it stays clean and looks good.

Bottle Cages

You probably already have bottle cages on your bike, but upgrading them to something lighter and sleeker looking can be a good option. The first thing though in upgrading bottle cages is making sure they still hold a bottle well even down a bumpy road. It can be the sweetest looking bottle cage in the world but if your bottle falls out, it didn’t do its one job and is worthless. After you’ve determined that it can securely hold a bottle, find a style and weight you like and match the color with your bike. Black typically goes with everything but it all depends. It’s style, find yours.

Saddle Bag

Style on the bike continues to more than just the bike itself. This continues to accessories on the bike such as a saddle bag that a lot of riders have just flopping around under their seat. Having a bag that isn’t too big and is securely attached to your seat not only has a purpose but also looks good. The best looking things are the ones that have a purpose and look good too.

Upgrading parts on your bike doesn’t have to be expensive and time consuming. Knowing which parts to upgrade first will help you get the most out of your riding. The best upgrades are the ones you need, not what other riders think you need. There is always the “latest and greatest” equipment out there but just because it’s sweet and functional for someone doesn’t mean that it’s a great investment. Often times the most simplest of upgrades will take your riding the farthest. Find that one upgrade, make it, and go on to the next when the time is right.

What is the Best FTP Test?

December 23, 2017 by Sarah Lauzé

Functional threshold power (FTP) is the maximum power that you are able to sustain over a one hour period, or at least, that is what it represents. It has since become more of a benchmark, as FTP can now be measured using a much shorter test. So, what is the best FTP test, and how can you use the results to structure your training plan?

Why does FTP matter?

Training with FTP isn’t for everyone, but by understanding which power zones you are training in you can become a lot more efficient and learn to listen to your body. If you want to try racing, or even tackle some time trials, knowing your FTP will help you pace your efforts and avoid burnout.

What you’ll need

Functional threshold power is measured in watts, so you will need a power meter. They can be expensive, so you can try a virtual power meter such as TrainerRoad or Zwift first. It will provide virtual numbers using the power curve on you indoor turbo trainer to calculate your watts. This can be a great option to see if crunching the numbers is for you before investing a lot of time and money into it.

Best FTP Tests

There are 2 ways to determine your functional threshold power. Both should be done when you are properly rested and performed on a slight and continuous uphill. Ensure there are no traffic lights or stop signs that may interrupt your test. Also ensure that you get a proper warm up in before either test.

The 1 Hour FTP Test

The most obvious way to determine functional threshold power is to do a one hour ride as steady and as fast as you possibly can. From there you would take your average power reading and that would be your FTP. However, it can be tough to push yourself for the length of an hour to get an accurate reading of just how fast you can go. When you’re not in a race environment, keeping your mind as focused as it needs to be will be a huge challenge.

You probably will not be as rested as you should be, you will not be racing anyone, and no one will be judging you if you go slow or congratulating you if you go quickly. If you choose to ride for an hour and it is not during a race you should take the average power output and add 5% – 8%. So if your average watts were 250 then your functional threshold power would be between 262.5 and 270 watts.

The 20 minute FTP Test

The easier and more practical test can be done in 20 minutes. It may not be a “true” FTP test, as what you can maintain over 20 minutes will be different from what you could over an hour of pain, but it as much a mental test as it is physical.

For the first 5 minutes you may wonder what all the fuss about, but believe me, the pain will come. Again your goal here is to maintain the highest average wattage possible. It is easier to start out too fast in a 20 minute test, so ensure you get up to speed quickly, but do not push it too hard as you will tire too quickly and it would result in an inaccurate result. Once you have completed the 20 minutes reduce the average wattage by 5% – 8%. So if your average watts were 250, then your functional threshold power would be between 230 and 237.5 watts.

The 8 Minute FTP Test

You will complete this test twice, so it’s actually more like 16 minutes. The benefit: you have two efforts so you can learn from the first. This test is geared more towards experienced riders as it provides more information by demonstrating power at VO2max (the body’s ability to consume oxygen during intense exercise, in other words respiratory endurance).

Okay, get ready for the longest 8 minutes of your life. You will take your average power for the two 8-minutes intervals (pushing yourself to your limitand taking a break in between) and multiply by .90 to get your FTP. So, your FTP will be 90% of your average power over the two intervals.

Now what?

Once you have your FTP, what do you do with it? This is not a static number, but your FTP is a snapshot of your fitness level at any given time, so it can be used to measure your progress as well as a training tool. If you want to improve your FTP, your training should include workouts that combine riding just below your FTP at 90-98% with VO2max intervals, which are above your FTP from 105 – 120%. This will ensure you are pushing yourself in a way that can be missed by just using heart rate as a training measure, and will make you a stronger rider over time.

Avoid the Pain in the Butt: Find a Comfortable Bike Saddle

December 19, 2017 by Sarah Lauzé

An uncomfortable bike saddle can quickly turn your bike from an instrument of joy to one of torture. Not only can it be extremely painful, but it can also lead to long term injuries or saddle sores as you contort your position on the bike trying to lessen the discomfort. There are a number of factors that contribute to how comfortable bike saddle is, but the most important one is you.

We are all built differently, so there is no “one size fits all” when it comes to a perch for your unique bottom. What feels comfortable to one person, will feel like torture to another. So, we will outline some things to look into before starting the search for you dream saddle, but keep in mind that it will likely come down to trial and error.

Saddle Features

Width

You may think that the wider the saddle, the more comfortable it would be, but this is not the case. Neither are narrow saddles the be all end all when it comes to finding the best fit. The first step towards finding the most comfortable bike saddle is to measure the distance between your sit bones. This can be done with an “Assometer” at your local bike shop, or at home with a piece of paper and a pencil. Once you know the distance between your sit bones you will want to add 2 cm, 1 cm past the sit bones on each side.

If a saddle is too wide, the nose of it can start to rub on the inside of your quads. If it is too narrow then you sit bones will not be your main point of support for your weight. The pressure will then come down onto soft tissue, which can be extremely painful over any amount of time or distance.

Cut outs

The popularity of cut outs largely came from a 1997 study. It claimed that reduced blood flow caused by saddle pressure could potentially lead to erectile dysfunction and permanent reproductive failure in men. Although this has since been disproved, the concern is still there. It comes down to personal preference and what feels most comfortable to you.

A test to see if you might benefit from a center cut-out is to sit on a hard wooden chair or bench and lean forward without arching your back to where you can rest your elbows on your knees. Sit like this for a few minutes and if you find that there is adverse pressure and discomfort on the soft tissue being pressured then you will most likely benefit from a cut-out in your saddle.

Softness / Firmness

It’s easy to think that the more padding a saddle has the more comfortable it will be, but it actually puts more pressure on sensitive areas. It can pinch and chafe rather than support your sit bones. The ideal firmness will put enough weight on your sit bones, while still providing enough padding to be comfortable. Some riders prefer no padding at all as it puts the pressure exactly where they want it, but that isn’t the case for everyone.

Shape

There are two general shapes for saddles when viewed from above: T-shaped and pear-shaped. If you have issue with chafing or your quads rubbing together, then T-shaped will be the better option for you. A pear-shaped saddle can be good fit if you shift your position a lot while riding, as there will be more evenly dispersed support.

The second aspect of saddle shape if how flat or rounded the surface it. When viewed from the back, how much curvature does the saddle have? You want it to be slightly curved to keep you centered on the saddle, but not so curved that there is pressure on the central areas between your sit bones.

Gender Specific

Looking at saddles designed specifically for men or women may be a good place to start, but don’t let it dictate your decision. Women typically have wider set sit bones, and therefore require slightly wider saddles. That being said, many women find mens saddles that work perfect for them, just as many men ride on womens saddles.

Comfortable Bike Saddles

Touring Saddles

Brooks B17

$120

The B17 design was first introduce in 1910, so it may seem odd to be highlighting it here. However, the fact that this saddle has changed very little over the past century speaks to “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” It was made for those long distance tours, with a wider shape and a slim, short nose making it ideal for a more upright position on the bike. Handmade in Birmingham, this leather saddle molds to your bottom over time, giving you the ultimate personalized support.

Selle Anatomica X Series

$150

Unlike the Brook saddle, the X series has no break in period, and is quite comfortable for most riders right from the start. The leather top is supported by a stiffer laminate layer glues to the underside, striking the balance between comfort and durability. The slot shape is meant to eliminate perineal pressure, sit bone pain, and saddle sores.

All-Rounder Saddles

Bontrager Montrose Elite Saddle

$130

Intended to be one of the more all-purpose saddles on the market, the Bontrager Montrose Saddle has been perfected year after year. It uses something called inForm BioDynamics to optimize your natural movement on the bike. This helps eliminate any restrictions on your legs or power output, whether racing or heading out for a group ride.

Fabric Scoop Pro Saddle

$170

It may not look like much, but this simple design is one of the more popular in recent years. Available in three shapes to suit your position on the bike, you can find a specific fit to your riding style. It brings together the perfect combination of comfort, performance, and unique construction. Plus, with the waterproof microfiber, the Fabric Scoop is durable and will stand up to years of use.

Racing Saddles

Selle San Marco Mantra

$214

Weighing in at just 122.1g, this saddle is for racers who are worried about adding any weight to their bike. The stiff design allows for an efficient transfer of power, and is made for those who ride in an aggressive position.

Ritchey WCS Carbon Streem

$144

This light (155g), low-profile design and narrow carbon fibre injected shell is built for the faster riders who prize long-term support. The comfort comes from the shock-absorbing ‘Vector Wing’ rather than padding, so the flat profile will suit hardened racers, but can seem harsh for casual riders.

It is extremely important to find a saddle that not only fits your contour, but is also comfortable. Your saddle is the most important comfort piece on the bike as it holds the majority of your weight, so don’t rush into it. Even with the right size saddle, flat-ness, firmness, and cut-out preference, you may have to adjust your saddle further through minor tilt adjustments.

Road Bike Tires and Rolling Resistance

December 18, 2017 by Sarah Lauzé

The ideal road bike tire would weigh nothing, have zero rolling resistance, never malfunction, and maybe even help you out near the top of a tough climb. Unfortunately, tire technology is not quite there yet. (Fingers crossed for future hover bikes).

What we can look at is what makes up a road bike tire. What makes a tire faster than others? What makes it more stable? And what role does air pressure play in all of this? Because, at the end of the day, it all comes down to where the rubber meets the road.

Types of Tires

There are three types of tires available: clincher, tubular, and tubeless.

Clinchers are the most common, and you’re most likely familiar with how they work. They have a wire bead around the edge that both holds their shape and fits into a hook on the rim, with an entirely separate inner tube that you can repair or replace. Tubular tires have typically been the number one choice for racers, but are both tough and expensive to fix. They have an inner tube that is actually stitched inside, then the tire is glued to the rim. Tubeless tires have become increasingly popular for mountain bikers, but have crossed into road cycling as well. Like a car tire, the open rubber tie sits firmly on the wheel’s rim, with the air sitting in the cavity between the rim and inside of the tire. In addition, a liquid sealant is used inside the tire to preemptively plug any small cuts in the tire without losing pressure at all.

Rolling Resistance

Everyone knows about wind resistance as a force that works against cyclists. Headwinds can be brutal and unrelenting, and also make for a handy excuse when your times are a little slower. Although not nearly to the same effect, rolling resistance is the much less obvious factor at play here.

Rolling resistance is a principle of physics, and isn’t specific to cycling. It refers to the energy that is lost where a tire makes contact with the road. As a tire rolls along, the rubber and casing flex and unflex. The energy needed for the constant deformation is then absorbed and turned into heat. It’s much more obvious on your car, and is the reason your tires get warm as you drive.

There are a number of factors that contribute to rolling resistance:

Tire Width

For many years, narrow 23mm tires have been the standard width for road bike tires. Racers would go even narrower to 21mm, with the general thought that the narrower the surface area, the less rolling resistance. However, this has proved to be untrue. At the same pressure, narrow and wide tires will have the same contact area. Narrow tires will flatten onto a narrower but longer section of the tire where it contacts the road, whereas wider tires will flatten over its width. The narrower tire loses more of its shape, and so does not roll as well. Wider tires have less deformation from its round shape, and therefore roll faster.

Tread Pattern

Any tread actually increases rolling resistance as the shapes or patterns can squirm as they come in contact with the road. Therefore, a smooth, slick surface is the best option, but most companies seem to want some kind of tread on their tires, if only for marketing purposes.

Casing

Tire casings are specified in TPI (threads per inch), and have multiple layers of threads holding things together. The higher the TPI, the thinner the threads, as they can be more crowded together. In most cases, a higher TPI delivers less rolling resistance and therefore a faster tire.

Tube Choice

Clincher tires will be slightly slower than their tubeless counterparts as the inner tube and the casing create friction and raise the rolling resistance. However, the difference is not enough to make the switch for most riders. Your tube choice will have more of an impact, as running a thinner, lighter, and more flexible tube will create less rolling resistance.

Tire Pressure

Overinflated tires will deform less, and so technically will reduce the rolling resistance, but it also forces movement. Your momentum is forced up instead of forward as you bounce over every little bump and rock in the road. In recent tests the rolling resistance between a tire inflated to 85 psi as opposed to a tire inflated to 110psi is negligible. Additionally, safety is significantly reduced with high tire pressures. If you try to take a sharp turn at speed around a moderately slippery corner with overinflated tires, it’s not going to be pretty.

Your choice of tire depends on what your specific needs are and the type of riding you do. It is often a toss up between speed, longevity, puncture resistance, ease of use, and your budget. Click here to read more about how to choose the right tires for racing, or the the right tire by type.

Training With Power

December 10, 2017 by Aaron Robson

One of the biggest revolutions in cycling training has been the introduction of the power meter as a training tool. It has rapidly thrown cycling into the highly technical world of sports science, and the benefits can be enormous – Chris Froome’s win in the 2013 Tour de France was aided greatly by Team Sky’s extensive use of power meters in both their training and racing plans. So what is power training, and more importantly, can it benefit you?

What is Power?

Everyone has heard of power, but unless you have a particularly good memory of high school physics, you may not be familiar with what it means in a technical sense. Power is defined as the rate of work; how much ‘work’ is done in a certain interval of time. Work is defined as a force applied over a distance. So power is essentially a measure of how hard you can push on the pedals (the force) and for how long (time). The harder you can push, and the longer you can maintain a certain level of ‘push’, the faster you go! And going faster is what bike racing is all about.

Why Should I Use it?

Now, you might be saying to yourself ‘OK, that’s nice. So what?’ Well, the ‘so what’ is that cyclists can use power to train and race much more effectively. Power is ultimately a measure of how hard you are working, and by using a power meter on your bike, you can more precisely monitor your effort. Other ways of monitoring effort do exist – rate of perceived exertion (a subjective assessment of how hard you feel you are working) and heart rate are the two most common methods, but neither comes close to the precision you get from a power meter.

This precision can be extremely beneficial to cyclists. By using a power meter on a climb, for example, you can ride the entire climb at precisely your optimal power output – never going too hard and pushing yourself into the ‘red zone’, but also not being too conservative and leaving too much in the tank at the end. You can also train more effectively, doing intervals at an exact percentage of your maximum output, or riding a tempo ride right at your lactate threshold to name a few possible applications.

How to Integrate Power into your Training

Hopefully you’re convinced that using a power meter can make you a better cyclist. The obvious question is how? First things first, you need a power meter. Debating the merits of the many options available on the market will be the subject of another article, but in short – invest in a good one. You might be tempted by the low cost of some models, but these are no where near as accurate as the better ones, and accuracy is the whole point of using a power meter. The cheapest worthwhile option I know of is the Stages Power meter, which retails for $700.

After you have your new power meter ready to go on your bike, the next step is to do some baseline tests to determine your power profile. Ideally, you will want to determine the maximum power you can produce for 5 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes and 30+ minutes (this last one is referred to a Functional Threshold Power). All-out 5 second effort is easy enough, and even a 1 minute maximum effort isn’t too daunting. The 5 minute and 30 minute efforts take a bit more planning to execute properly, but when you know all these numbers you will have a much better idea of your strengths and weaknesses as a rider. There are tables available online that provide approximate equivalent levels of power for each duration. If your values for 5 second and 1 minute power rate higher than your 5 minute and 30 min values, then you know you are relatively weaker aerobically, and can emphasize aerobic training.

Power meters also help you to gauge efforts better. If, for example, you know that your FTP is 300 Watts (watts are the standard unit of power), then you know that in a time trial that will take you about 45 minutes to complete, you shouldn’t be riding above 300 Watts at any time. Riding with the most even power output over the course of your effort will give you the best results.

It is impossible to cover every aspect of power training in a single article – there are entire books written about it. If you are an aspiring racer, or even just someone who loves to track progress, a power meter will be your best friend. Now that you are familiar with the basics, you can start your journey into training with power!

Cross Training For Cyclists

November 12, 2017 by Josh Friedman

With the weather turning cooler, spending less time on the bike might be appealing. There is more adverse weather to deal with, along with waning daylight. Riding indoors on a trainer or rollers is a good way to maintain cycling form despite being a bit on the boring side. Cross training for cyclists on the other hand can keep up some of your fitness while being fun, exciting, and simply different.

There are additional benefits to cross training for cycling besides maintaining hard-fought fitness gains you made when the weather was nice and the days were long:

Workouts in cross training disciplines can be shorter, while making similar fitness impacts.
Cycling is a low impact sport; you need to do other work to boost bone density. Cycling alone can lead to bone mass loss. Many cross training activities have some impact, increasing bone density as your body responds to the training. (this is particularly important for woman)
Cross training can be a great mental break. After all of the hours you spend on the bike, sometimes a change is nice, especially if it is going back to an activity you love.
Hiding from the bad weather is not always a bad thing. Too many wet and cold rides can take away some love for cycling.

Cross Training for Cycling

There are lots of ways you can spend your time cross training. If you are excited about it and it will keep you fit and moving, go for it. Below are five activities that are common and will have a few of the benefits mentioned above.

Running

The benefits of running when it is cold and the days are short are easy, it takes less time to get a workout in and because you are going slower, there is less wind, thus it’s easier to stay warm. With the impact of each stride, you make your bones stronger. You may see less of the world on the bike, but you can see it in greater detail – it will give you a different perspective of your local training grounds.

Weight Training

Weight training can give you great benefits on the bike by developing both muscular endurance through high repetitions and low weight exercises and neuromuscular explosiveness with high weight maximal exercises. It is very easy to stay warm when you are working out indoors, while benefiting your bone density greatly by putting strain on your skeleton. It might not be the most mentally uplifting activity, but staying focused on the benefits can get you through a winter’s worth of workouts and stronger on the bike.

Other Sports

Was there a sport that you enjoyed before cycling? Now is the time to do it. Lots of sports that are traditionally outdoor sports have some indoor version – soccer, rock climbing, basketball, etc. It can be an enjoyable mental break that will keep you fit and healthy through the cooler days of the year.

Yoga

Core strength is quite trendy right now. Yoga is an activity that can boost core strength, along with all-around strength and flexibility. It can also be a time to get your mind focused and settle your thoughts unlike many other competitive disciplines.

Skating

The first few times you run after exclusively riding, you will be sore (but your lungs will work great). But there is an activity that does use roughly the same muscles and movement as cycling – skating. If you know how to skate, you can jump right in and show off your fitness immediately. If not, go learn and you will be skating well relatively quickly. There are even skating clubs that offer competition and the group environment that cycling offers during the fair weather. (And if you were wondering which type of skating was being referred to… well all three: skate skiing (traditional cross country skiing in skating form), ice skating, and roller skating which can be a great activity when it’s cold out but not cold enough for snow and ice.)

Do not let the word training fool you; cross training for cycling should be a fun and beneficial distraction through the fall and winter. Find and activity that suits you and enjoy yourself while keeping up your fitness.

Best Bike Split: App Review

November 10, 2017 by Sarah Lauzé

There are so many apps available that can help you record your progress and improve your riding. Best Bike Split (BBS) is a new tool from Training Peaks that can help predict your cycling future. Sound crazy? Give it a try before you knock it.

Most cycling apps out there focus on analysis, comparing your time, power, heart rate and so on. It crunches these numbers to give you a snapshot of where you’re at right now, and how far you’ve come. Best Bike Split, however, uses mathematical equations to predict what power a cyclist needs to reach a certain time goal for a specific route or course, and will formulate a pacing strategy accordingly.

The Inspiration

BBS founder Ryan Cooper first had the idea during the 2013 Tour de France, when he designed a model to predict the times of some of the top racers. During the Stage 11 time trial his model with within just a few seconds of Alberto Contador, Chris Froome, and Tony Martin’s final times. From there he developed the app to help riders of any ability to predict, train, and plan for race days more accurately and to more success.

How Best Bike Split Works

Input your data – Set up your profile on your desktop computer with as much data as you can, including weight, height, functional threshold power (FTP), max heart rate, bike model, and wheel type.
Course mapping – Select the course you want to analyze, or upload your own. As more and more people are using the app, the more courses are available. You can also upload a recorded ride in GPX format from your Garmin or smartphone.
Create a race profile – From your course selection, Best Bike Split will calculate all the variables specific to that course like rolling resistance, mechanical loss, altitude changes, wind direction, and many more.
Get your best bike split – Using their math and physics engine, Best Bike Split will output the best possible power based plan given the course conditions. You can then download the app on the Garmin Connect IQ store. There is a free version, but for more advanced calculations including weather predictions, gradient chart, and TSS score you will need to purchase the premium membership.

The Best Bike Split: App Review — A prediction chart showing powering, speed, and elevation on a sample course.

Who’s Using It?

Best Bike split is great for anyone wanting to take their racing to the next level, and is a valuable tool for coaches. Or, if you’re a techie and love trying this kind of new technology, it’s a lot of fun. You can download other people’s power plans and see how long you can ride at their level. (Check out this plan for TJ Tollakson if you want to be humbled).

BBS is designed for athletes who race and train with power meters, and can help determine a number offactors such as:

Predict future race times.
Plan optimal power targets.
Pre-train a race indoors with Zwift, TrainerRoad, Computrainer, etc.
Determine what equipment to use for a race.
Compare race plans and finish times for various scenarios.
See how weather impacts your race day strategy.
Determine ideal places to attack or sit in during events.

The wealth of information that comes with the app can be overwhelming and completely unnecessary for the majority of riders. However, it can be a great tool for motivation and can help you reach those time goals sooner than later.

Where can I get it?

BBS is available in the Garmin Connect iQ store, and can also sync with Wahoo Elemnt and use the full web version with premium for $19/month. For more information check out the Best Bike Split website.

The Best Cycling Shoes By Type

November 6, 2017 by Sarah Lauzé

Going clipless is great way to quickly and easily improve your riding and become more efficient. Finding the right shoes can be tough as there’s no “one size fits all” solution, and there are a variety of features to look for.

Are you doing a lot of racing, or are you a commuter? Do you ride over the winter? Are you headed out bike touring? Each of these situations require a different type of cycling shoe, and you’ll want to think about what you’re looking for in a cycling shoe before investing in a pair.

Why go clipless?

Clipless pedals with cycling shoes is the most efficient and comfortable system out there when it comes to road biking. The stiff sole of the cycling shoe provides a rigid platform to transfer power from your legs to the drivetrain and propel the bike forward. Softer shoes lose some of that power as the flexible sole deforms around the pedal (and also makes your feet sore)

As well as having stiff soles, being clipped in encourages proper pedalling technique, using power through every part of the pedal stroke. Not only are you pushing down, but you are also pulling up to complete the 360 degree motion.

The clipless system is not just for racers, but can make cycling more enjoyable as you spend the same amount of energy, but get more return! So, if you’re a recreational rider who has always made fun of cyclists hobbling around in their cycling shoes, it may be time to give them a try. It can be intimidating to be locked in to your bike at first, but you will get used to the twist out motion in no time.

Types of road cycling shoes

There are two general types of road cycling shoes:

Performance – Performance cycling shoes are as light and as stiff as possible, with the cleat attaching entirely on the outside of the shoe via a two or three bolt system. These shoes are not meant for walking, and will get you out to your bike, but that’s about it. They are not shoes that you would want to get stuck walking home in
Leisure / Touring – For commuters, casual riders, and touring you may want something a little more versatile and easy to walk around in. These shoes will often have a much smaller cleat that is embedded into the sole, making it flat with the bottom of the shoe.

Key variables

Fit – You always want to try cycling shoes before you buy, as not all brands size the same. They’re awkward to walk around in, so trying them out on your bike would be ideal. You want your feet to feel comfortable, but snug in the shoe. They shouldn’t be moving around within the shoe at all, as that will become very uncomfortable over a long ride.
Fastening system – The number one thing you want from the fastening system is to keep your foot firmly in place. This can be done with dials, ratchets, velcro, or laces.
Soles – Generally speaking, the stiffer the sole, the more efficient the shoe will be. More expensive shoe soles will be made from carbon to remain as lightweight as possible, whereas cheaper options will be plastic, and some are combination of the two.
Cleat style – The majority of road cycling cleats are three bolt (SPD-L), with two bolt (SPD) being more appealing for commuting, touring, and mountain biking. Some cleats are a compatible with both.
Breathability / Water resistance – If you’re doing the majority of your cycling on hot summer days, then you’ll want to ensure the shoes you get are synthetic or leather and allow your feet to breath. There are specific winter cycling shoes for cold and wet riding, and it may be worth having two pairs if you are riding outside during all seasons.

Some of the Best Cycling Shoes

Performance Cycling Shoe

Shimano RP9

The RP9 road performance shoes are the quality and fit of a pro-level shoes, but at a much more affordable price point. They are designed for performance and speed, but with the heat moldable Custom-Fit, they are also comfortable enough for those long rides while giving you the ultimate power transfer. With a weaved carbon composite sole and a one piece synthetic leather upper, they are lightweight, breathable, and secure.

These shoes come in both men’s and women’s models.

Mid-Range Cycling Shoe

Men’s – Giro Treble II

The Treble II is exactly what you think of when you picture a cycling shoe. It’s simple, functional, and is compatible with both SPD and SPD-L cleats. The classic 3-strap closure makes for easy adjustments, but isn’t quite as durable or secure as it’s lace, ratchet, or dial counterparts. However, these are great entry level shoes that will having you set for a PR on your favourite climb with amazing efficiency and comfort.

Women’s – Shimano RP2

The entry level show in Shimano’s lineup, the RP2 is compatible with both SPD and SPD-L. The lightweight fibreglass soles increase power output, with the classic three strap upper keeping your foot firmly in place. The women’s model features a narrower fit, reduced volume, and added support in the instep to maximize comfort.

Leisure / Commuter cycling shoe

Women’s – Giro Whynd Womens Road Cycling Shoes

The best of both worlds. The sole of the Whynd is rigid enough to prevent the loss of power while remaining comfortable enough to walk in, featuring rubber “walking zones” to provide grip. The recessed cleat area accommodates two-bolt cleats, and the large strap across the top provides security and keeps the laces out of the way. These are perfect for weekend touring or running errands on your bike.

Men’s – Giro Rumble VR Cycling Shoes

The Giro Rumble features vibram soles for the ultimate support and casual look while out at the pub, with an injected inner shank to transfer power and have you feeling strong when you hop back on your bike. The mesh/microfiber upper upper will keep your feet from sweating and the non-slip laces will keep you nice and secure- no matter what the day brings.

Cycling Heart Rate Zones

October 30, 2017 by Sarah Lauzé

Heart rate training is a valuable tool for all athletes, as it helps bypass your brain to listen directly to what your body is telling you. It varies from sport to sport, so keep in mind this article is about cycling heart rate zones in particular.

So, what’s is the big deal with heart rate zones? The zones may not mean much in themselves, but their value comes with understanding how to use them within your training. Heart rate training can be specified to your goals, and can make you stronger, fitter, and faster all the while preventing overtraining and burnout.

What is heart rate?

Your heart rate is measured in the number of times your heart beats per minute (BPM). It is the body’s direct response to what you are doing, whether it’s sitting on your couch or pumping up a hill at full speed.

Your heart rate is measured using two baseline numbers:

Resting heart rate – Your heart rate when your body is completely relaxed (essentially your minimum heart rate).
Max heart rate – The highest number your heart beats in the course of one minute. Again, this is for cycling in particular, as your max heart rate for running would be a higher number.

Determine your resting heart rate

You’ll want to measure your resting heart rate first thing in the morning for at a least a week. When you first wake up, and are completely relaxed (avoid testing when you are sick or stressed) measure the number of heartbeats over the course of a minute. This can be done easily with a heart rate monitor or even most smartphones. If you don’t have either of these, then find your pulse on your wrist or neck, set a timer for one minute, and count the number of beats.

Once you have done this once a day for a week, add up each day and divide by 7. This will give you your average resting heart rate. Keep in mind, the more fit you become, the lower your resting heart rate will be as your body becomes more efficient.

Determine your maximum heart rate

There are a variety of ways to determine your maximum heart rate, with the most accurate being a visit to your doctor for a stress test. However, you can also do a simple test yourself.

First, find a hill climb that takes you at least 10 minutes on your bike and is not so steep that you have to stand up out of the saddle at all. Before heading up the hill, warm up for a minimum of 15 minutes, then take to the hill working up to sprinting as fast as you can for roughly 10 minutes. When you can’t go any faster, stand up in the saddle and sprint for a further 45 seconds. Take your heart rate immediately after, or use the highest heart rate recorded on your monitor – this will be your max heart rate.

Heart rate zone training

Once you have these two parameter numbers, you will then be able to breakdown your heart rate into zones. There are 5 basic zones when it comes to cycling:

Zone 1 – Recovery (50 – 64% of max HR)

Known as ‘active recovery,’ this zone can be used between cycling intervals, or for rest days when training. This zone will flush lactic acid from your body and help you loosen up sore muscles.

Zone 2 – Aerobic Endurance (65 – 74% of max HR)

Think if this is as your base pace, especially if you’re a beginner cyclist. This is the zone where you should spend a lot of your time, and is the foundation for building endurance and burning fat. You will be working hard enough to feel it, but able to maintain over long distances and remain able to carry on a conversation.

Zone 3 – Aerobic Threshold (75 – 84% of max HR)

This zone can be described as your push pace, or comfortably hard. You are building strength and muscle, but you’ll want to be careful about just how much time you spend in this zone. At the end of a ride you will feel tired, but not have pushed yourself hard enough to see real progress (can reach a plateau in your fitness).

Zone 4 – Lactate Threshold (85 – 91% of max HR)

The lactate threshold is the zone in which lactic acid starts to accumulate in the bloodstream, as lactate clearance is no longer able to keep up with lactate production. This will be used most commonly in interval training as it is challenging and cannot be sustained for extended period of time. Within this zone you are bettering your maximum performance, improving lung capacity, and improving high-intensity endurance.

Zone 5 – VO2 (92 – 100% of max HR)

The VO2 zone can be described as the numerical measurement of the body’s ability to consume oxygen during intense exercise, in other words respiratory endurance. Most cannot maintain this zone for more than 5 minutes. Your lungs will be burning and you will be breathing (or gasping) heavily. Although difficult, this type of training will make your body more efficient.

How much time you should be spending in each of these zones has a lot to do with your goals and current training plan. Check out “Heart Rate Zone Training for Cyclists” for some examples to get started with your own heart rate zone training.

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