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I Love Bicycling

I Love Bicycling is a website that is geared towards cycling for beginners with road cycling tips, training articles, nutrition tips, weight loss, how to’s and bike repair articles.

A Beginner’s Guide to Handlebar Tape

June 5, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

Handlebar tape is an often overlooked aspect of your bike, but it effects both how your bike looks and feels. It covers the essential contact point between you and and your bike, so it’s the easiest way to make your bike feel like new. The tape will work to absorb some of the bumps in the road, as well as provide grip for your hands. Historically, handlebars were wrapped in simple white cloth tape, but now there are a ton of options when it comes to material and colour. So, if you’re looking for a way to spend some quality time with your bike, changing your handlebar tape can be a great way to do it.

How often should you replace handlebar tape?

Cyclists know that certain items, tires, chains, and gears should be replaced at regular intervals, but how often should you replace your bar tape? This will be dependent on how much you ride, but it should be done at least a once a year. Think of how much your hands sweat out on a hot ride, or the dirt and dust from the road making it’s way to your handlebars. It can get pretty nasty looking, especially if it’s white, so you’ll want to make a habit of changing it out.

What to look for in handlebar tape

Grip

Handlebar tape does more than just make your bike look good, it serves as your main point of contact. So, it’s important to choose tape that provides adequate grip for the handling of your bike. Look for something with a tacky finish to ensure you get grip even in wet conditions. This is especially important if you are riding without gloves.

Padding

Handlebar tape provides a nice bit of cushioning for your hands, reducing the vibrations that travel from the road up into your arms. Choose tape that provides the right amount of padding for you and the type of riding you do. Many cyclists choose to double wrap their bars for a little extra cushion, especially when riding on rougher roads.

Looks

There are all sorts of unspoken rules out there. Some say your bar tape should match your saddle, or your kit, or your head tube…the list goes on. The truth of it is, you should chose whatever tape feels the best in a colour that catches your eye.

Types of Handlebar Tape

Bar tape is prone to wear and tear, but luckily most is relatively inexpensive. There are plenty of options to explore too, and new tape will always rejuvenate a tired-looking bike. It’s worth experiencing the subtle differences in comfort, feel, and performance offered by different brands and materials.

Cotton Bar Tape

Cotton is old-school. Any bike built before about 1985 probably has cotton bar tape. Cotton tape is very cheap but it’s not widely available, and your best bet may be to go shopping online for it. Cotton tape comes in a roll with an adhesive backing that is easy to apply to a clean set of bars. Cycling purists like to give cotton tape several coats of shellac to protect the material and prevent it from unwrapping. That’s why some older bikes seem to have shiny handlebars.

Cork/Synthetic Bar Tape

By 1987, cork tape had for the most part replaced cotton as the tape of choice. Contemporary cork tape is actually a synthetic blend of cork and ethylene vinyl acetate. Cork/synthetic tape is more expensive than cotton, but typically also comes with a with a small strip of adhesive backing. Cork/synthetic tape needs to be stretched carefully when wrapping the bars, otherwise it looks untidy and is prone to unravelling. Take care with cork blends, stretch them too tight and they will break. Cork tape is typically too thick for designs such as the harlequin or other pattern making. The main advantage of cork is that it absorbs shock and sweat like nothing else.

High-Tech Bar Tape

Most contemporary bar tapes are made from a lightweight and durable synthetics, in combination with a foam or gel core for cushioning. Materials such as polyurethane, synthetic nylon or silicone are strong, lightweight and durable and often have a tacky  texture that aids grip and contributes to a positive feel to your hands. Some have a perforated surface, others a ‘microfiber’ smooth feel, while others have a textured surface. Some look like faux leather or faux carbon. These newer formulas add good vibration dampening, without the bulkiness that can come from old-school tapes like cork.

Leather Bar Tape

If you’ve ever heard of the Brooks saddle you won’t be surprised that leather bar tape is at the top of the heap. Leather tape just feels good in your hands. Expect to pay around $100 for leather handlebar tape. You can also expect it to last forever. Some cyclists claim that it improves with age, just like a Brooks saddle. If you’re into changing the tape every year as suggested, leather probably isn’t the best choice. The downside to leather is that it doesn’t provide a vibration dampening effect like cork or gel.

How To Change Your Handlebar Tape

Bar tape can last for years, and it typically comes already installed on a new bike. It might seem easy enough; wrapping tape around bars. But it’s not that simple. Not all cyclists know how to wrap a bar and make it last. In fact, it’s one of the most common things done wrong on bicycles.

What You’ll Need

  • Electrical tape
  • Scissors
  • Clean hands or gloves
  • New handlebar tape

1. Remove Old Handlebar Tape

Do whatever it takes to remove the old bar tape. It might just unravel when you remove the plugs, or you can use tweezers or pliers to grip it an pull it off delicately.

2. Clean the Bars

Use a bike specific cleaner or anything that will remove tacky substances. Make sure it’s dry and without any residue to ensure a good bond with your handlebars.

3. Make Adjustments & Secure Cables

If you’re replace existing tape, the hoods should already be in the right position, but this is your chance to move them if you desire. Make the adjustments, and tighten the hoods to the handlebars. It’s typically done with a 5mm hex wrench. The bolt is usually on the outside of the lever under the hood. Its a good idea to ride the bike before applying the tape, to ensure the hoods are where you want them, because after wrapping the bars, they’re difficult to move without disturbing the tape.

Use black electrical tape to secure the brake cables to the bars if applicable. Some bars have holes in them for this purpose, and you can skip the electrical tape. It typically takes 3 or 4 strips of electrical tape to secure the brake line to drop bars.

4. Wrap It

The jury is still out on the direction, and whether to wind clockwise or counterclockwise is up to you. Some prefer to start in the center, on either side of the handlebars. Some prefer to anchor the tape with the plugs, and work toward the handlebars. Because the procedure varies wildly due to your choice of designs, the procedure can also vary.

In general, the most popular technique is to start at the end of the bars leaving about a half-inch overhanging the end of the bars. This is so you stuff it inside the bars when you insert the bar-end plug to secure it. Then start wrapping the bar tape leaving about 1/4 of an inch to a half overlapping the previous. Make sure you keep it snug as you go. When you get to the hoods there are a few ways to do it, but in general, you want to make sure that no metal on the bars is showing. Then continue toward the stem stopping two to three inches from the stem. Cut the tape so it forms a straight edge and wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the end to secure it. Then the nice tape that generally comes with new bar tape can be wrapped over the electrical tape giving it a sleek look.

Bar Tape Basics – That’s a Wrap

December 19, 2015 by Wade Shaddy

Bar Tape

It’s cold outside, and your bike is just waiting for some attention. Changing your bar tape can be the perfect way to spend a cold afternoon with your bike. Bring it in the house, settle in with a warm cup of hot chocolate and get busy. Your bike will thank you with a comfortable, new appearance.

Bar Tape – Cosmetic Designs

The harlequin, or double-diamond are just a few of the cosmetic, yet functional designs to consider. But bar tape is about more than looks. It takes into account how your hands fit and feel on the handlebars. Good planning and design adds the longevity needed for long days and many miles in the saddle, while offering cushion in the drops and a slip-proof grip.

Bar Tape Life

Bar tape can last for years, and it typically comes already installed on a new bike. It might seem easy enough; wrapping tape around bars. But it’s not that simple. Not all cyclists know how to wrap a bar and make it last. In fact, it’s one of the most common things done wrong on bicycles.

How Often Should you put on New Bar Tape

Cyclists know that certain items, tires, chains and gears should be replaced at regular intervals, but how often should you replace your bar tape? If you measure it in years, professionals consider it way too long, some cyclists consider it gross. Bar tape is similar to  running shoes and socks, most get changed way more often than once a year.

Nasty Stuff

The sweat, water, dirt, gunk and nasty stuff on your hands is on your bars. So once a year is considered a bare minimum if you’re an active rider. Of course, it also depends on how many bikes you own and how much you ride each of them. If you ride one bike all the time and pile up the miles, it probably deserves fresh bar tape every few months.

Choose Your Bar Tape

Inferior tape can be hard, slippery when wet and doesn’t last very long. Good tape is durable, comfortable, and makes gripping the bars for miles on end a little nicer. Good quality tape also tends to have some stretch, making it easy to achieve a nice, tight wrap; a wrap that that doesn’t move when you’re shifting your hands around on the bars.

Thick or Thin Bar Tape

There’s also a wide variation in feel between various types of tape. Padding and thickness varies, the depth of which depends on what you expect from a grip, and what type of riding you do. Choose thicker tape for rough riding conditions, thinner tape for a more streamlined approach.

Types of Bar Tape

Bar tape is prone to wear and tear, and most bar tape is relatively inexpensive. There are plenty of options to explore too, and new tape will always rejuvenate a tired-looking bike. It’s worth experiencing the subtle differences in comfort, feel and performance offered by different brands and materials.

Cotton Bar Tape

Cotton is old-school. Any bike built before about 1985 probably has cotton bar tape. Cotton tape is very cheap but it’s not widely available, and your best bet may be to go shopping online for it. Cotton tape comes in a roll with an adhesive backing that is easy to apply to a clean set of bars. Cycling purists like to give cotton tape several coats of shellac to protect the material and prevent it from unwrapping. That’s why some older bikes seem to have shiny handlebars.

Cork/Synthetic Bar Tape

By 1987, cork tape had for the most part replaced cotton as the tape of choice. Contemporary cork tape is actually a synthetic blend of cork and ethylene vinyl acetate. Cork/synthetic tape is more expensive than cotton, but typically also comes with a with a small strip of adhesive backing. Cork/synthetic tape needs to be stretched carefully when wrapping the bars, otherwise it looks untidy and is prone to unravelling. Take care with cork blends, stretch them too tight and they will break. Cork tape is typically too thick for designs such as the harlequin or other pattern making. The main advantage of cork is that it absorbs shock and sweat like nothing else.

High-Tech Bar Tape

Most contemporary bar tapes are made from a lightweight and durable synthetics, in combination with a foam or gel core for cushioning. Materials such as polyurethane, synthetic nylon or silicone are strong, lightweight and durable and often have a tacky  texture that aids grip and contributes to a positive feel to your hands. Some have a perforated surface, others a ‘microfiber’ smooth feel, while others have a textured surface. Some look like faux leather or faux carbon. These newer formulas add good vibration dampening, without the bulkiness that can come from old-school tapes like cork.

Leather Bar Tape

If you’ve ever heard of the Brooks saddle you won’t be surprised that leather bar tape is at the top of the heap. Leather tape just feels good in your hands. Expect to pay around $100 for leather handlebar tape. You can also expect it to last forever. Some cyclists claim that it improves with age, just like a Brooks saddle. If you’re into changing the tape every year as suggested, leather probably isn’t the best choice. The downside to leather is that it doesn’t provide a vibration dampening effect like cork or gel.

Off With The Old

Do whatever it takes to remove the old bar tape. It might just unravel when you remove the plugs, or you can use tweezers or pliers to grip it an pull it off delicately.

Clean The Bars

Clean the bars thoroughly. Use a bike specific cleaner or anything that will remove tacky substances. Make sure it’s dry and without any residue to ensure a good bond with your handlebars.

Position the Hoods

If you’re replace existing tape, the hoods should already be in the right position, but this is your chance to move them if you desire. Make the adjustments, and tighten the hoods to the handlebars. It’s typically done with a 5mm hex wrench. The bolt is usually on the outside of the lever under the hood. Its a good idea to ride the bike before applying the tape, to ensure the hoods are where you want them, because after wrapping the bars, they’re difficult to move without disturbing the tape.

Secure Cables

Use black electrical tape to secure the brake cables to the bars if applicable. Some bars have holes in them for this purpose, and you can skip the electrical tape while others bikes require the use of black tape. It typically takes 3 or 4 strips of electrical tape to secure the brake line to drop bars.

Wrap It

The jury is still out on the direction, and whether to wind clockwise or counterclockwise is up to you. Some prefer to start in the center, on either side of the handlebars. Some prefer to anchor the tape with the plugs, and work toward the handlebars. Because the procedure varies wildly due to your choice of designs, the procedure can vary wildly. In general the most used way is to start at the end of the bars leaving about a half-inch overhanging the end of the bars. This is so you stuff it inside the bars when you insert the bar-end plug to secure it. Then start wrapping the bar tape leaving about 1/4 of an inch to a half overlapping the previous. Make sure you keep it snug as you go. When you get to the hoods there are a few ways to do it but in general, you want to make sure that no metal on the bars is showing. Then continue toward the stem stopping two to three inches from the stem. Cut the tape so it forms a straight edge and wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the end to secure it. Then the nice tape that generally comes with new bar tape can be wrapped over the electrical tape giving it a sleek look.

That a wrap. New bar tape will not only make your bike look better but will also give you added comfort to your riding. Make sure you pick a good bar tape color!

Prevent Numb Hands While Cycling

August 2, 2015 by Lee Agur

numb hands while cycling, cycling numb hands, hand numbness cycling, numb hands when cycling, cycling hand numbness, numb fingers when cyclingThe good news: It is more than likely that you are able to solve numb hands while cycling.

Avid cyclists will know that the hobby can get a little bit tough on various areas of your body, particularly if you are not taking the correct steps to protect yourself against the issues that can be caused by longer rides.

While many people place a lot of their focus on the legs, the rider’s hands are also extremely important. After all, if cyclists hands go numb then the constant shifting can put you in less efficient positions and it can also be a hazard, adversely affecting steering and braking.

What is Causing My Hand Numbness?

There are several nerves in your hand and if they are compressed then you will start to feel that tingling sensation. The ulnar nerve runs through the bottom of your wrist and to your pinky and ring finger, where as the median nerve runs through the middle of your wrist and to your thumb, index finger, middle finger and ring finger.

It is much more common to have the ulnar nerve pinched on a road bike due to the hand position in the drops and on top of the hoods. To prevent numbness setting in you need to ensure that your wrist and hand position is in line with your forearm. If there is a bend in your wrist it will cause a pinch in the nerve and your hands will go numb. If you adjust your position and you find that you are unable to get your forearms, wrists and hands flush it may be an issue with your bike fit.

Bike Fit

Another common problem is having a poor bike fit. If your handlebars are in the wrong position or your saddle is at the wrong angle, you will find that you are putting extra pressure on your hands to maintain your posture. Specifically check the angle of your seat with a level. Generally speaking your saddle angle should be between 0% to a maximum of -3%. Any more than -3% and too much of your body weight will be held up by your hands which can cause them to go numb.

Sometimes the issue is not just the saddle but a cumulation of many factors. For instance, even small things such as the shifters being angled out to the side too much will cause your wrists to bend ultimately pinching the nerve. Perhaps you were watching the Tour De France and saw how low some of the handle bars were in relation to the saddle and you figured, “hey I could drop my bars down, be more aero and go faster,” not realizing that you just added more pressure on your hands.

There is a quick simple test that you are able to perform to determine if there is too much pressure on your hands. Grab a friend, get on a trainer and do a good warm up, after your warm up is complete start to bike at your Functional Threshold Power or at a quick pace that you would not be able to sustain for any longer than an hour. Once you have found that pace, make sure you are in the drops and have your friend standing in front of you ready to catch you while you quickly throw your hands back to your hips (envision grabbing the top of your butt cheeks).

If your bike fit is set up properly you should be able to hold that position without raising your torso, falling on your face or arching your back. In essence this little test tells you that you are at a perfect balance point and do not have too much weight on your hands. If you topple forward then it’s likely that you need adjust the saddle position backwards more to relieve some of that pressure on your hands.

Thankfully, there are plenty of additional measures that you can do to prevent hand numbness cycling.

If you would like to learn more about bike fit purchase “Bike Fit” by Phil Burt who explains hand numbness, knee pain and more.

Gloves

The most obvious solution for numb hands cycling is a decent pair of well fitting gloves with a fair amount of padding to spread out the pressure on the hands. Cycling gloves protect your hands when you are riding, thus ensuring that they don’t succumb to numbness when you are on the road, but will also offer that extra little bit of grip to ensure your hands don’t slip off the handlebars at a crucial moment.

It is important to make sure that the gloves fit your hands correctly, as a lot of discomfort can be caused by having the wrong gloves. If they feel tight in the shop they are going to get even tighter when used, especially after a couple of washes.

As well as wearing gloves make sure you change your hand position every once in a while to put pressure on different parts of the hands.

Handlebar Tape and Gels

A lot of people see handlebar tape, particularly the types used on road bikes, as more of a cosmetic issues than something that can help with your hands, but that isn’t always the case.

There are a variety of tapes and gels on the market that are designed to reduce the amount of vibration your hands feel when riding, which in turn means that your hands don’t end up going numb.

While the tape will be subject to wear and tear, most are fairly easy to buy and aren’t particularly pricey, so it can be replaced as and when needed.

Dynamic Stretching

Dynamic stretching is important before you undertake any physical exercise, and cycling is no different. While your legs will usually be your main focus, you should be sure to take a little of time to stretch the muscles in your arms as well.

Place particular focus on wrist exercises and make sure you feel nice and loose before you get on the bike. If your muscles are stiff, then you are quickly going to find you run into issues, which could lead you to overcompensate or adjust your weight so that you are placing even more pressure on your hands.

Body Limitations

Body limitations can play a part in causing that tingling feeling in your hands but make sure you exhaust all previous suggestions before exploring if your body has a weak core, you are not flexible enough in your hamstrings or have back issues.

Luckily a weak core can be fixed with exercises to strengthen your core and your tight hamstrings can be remedied with some stretching exercises.

 

Ultimately, if hand numbness is your problem there is a solution. Find which combination of the suggestions work for you. Are there any other things that can help with numb hands while cycling?

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