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I Love Bicycling is a website that is geared towards cycling for beginners with road cycling tips, training articles, nutrition tips, weight loss, how to’s and bike repair articles.

The Best Cycling Shoes By Type

November 6, 2017 by Sarah Lauzé

Going clipless is great way to quickly and easily improve your riding and become more efficient. Finding the right shoes can be tough as there’s no “one size fits all” solution, and there are a variety of features to look for.

Are you doing a lot of racing, or are you a commuter? Do you ride over the winter? Are you headed out bike touring? Each of these situations require a different type of cycling shoe, and you’ll want to think about what you’re looking for in a cycling shoe before investing in a pair.

The Best Cycling Shoes

Why go clipless?

Clipless pedals with cycling shoes is the most efficient and comfortable system out there when it comes to road biking. The stiff sole of the cycling shoe provides a rigid platform to transfer power from your legs to the drivetrain and propel the bike forward. Softer shoes lose some of that power as the flexible sole deforms around the pedal (and also makes your feet sore)

As well as having stiff soles, being clipped in encourages proper pedalling technique, using power through every part of the pedal stroke. Not only are you pushing down, but you are also pulling up to complete the 360 degree motion.

The clipless system is not just for racers, but can make cycling more enjoyable as you spend the same amount of energy, but get more return! So, if you’re a recreational rider who has always made fun of cyclists hobbling around in their cycling shoes, it may be time to give them a try. It can be intimidating to be locked in to your bike at first, but you will get used to the twist out motion in no time.

Types of road cycling shoes

The Best Cycling Shoes

There are two general types of road cycling shoes:

  1. Performance – Performance cycling shoes are as light and as stiff as possible, with the cleat attaching entirely on the outside of the shoe via a two or three bolt system. These shoes are not meant for walking, and will get you out to your bike, but that’s about it. They are not shoes that you would want to get stuck walking home in
  2. Leisure / Touring – For commuters, casual riders, and touring you may want something a little more versatile and easy to walk around in. These shoes will often have a much smaller cleat that is embedded into the sole, making it flat with the bottom of the shoe.

Key variables

  • Fit – You always want to try cycling shoes before you buy, as not all brands size the same. They’re awkward to walk around in, so The Best Cycling Shoestrying them out on your bike would be ideal. You want your feet to feel comfortable, but snug in the shoe. They shouldn’t be moving around within the shoe at all, as that will become very uncomfortable over a long ride.
  • Fastening system – The number one thing you want from the fastening system is to keep your foot firmly in place. This can be done with dials, ratchets, velcro, or laces.
  • Soles – Generally speaking, the stiffer the sole, the more efficient the shoe will be. More expensive shoe soles will be made from carbon to remain as lightweight as possible, whereas cheaper options will be plastic, and some are combination of the two.
  • Cleat style – The majority of  road cycling cleats are three bolt (SPD-L), with two bolt (SPD) being more appealing for commuting, touring, and mountain biking. Some cleats are a compatible with both.
  • Breathability / Water resistance – If you’re doing the majority of your cycling on hot summer days, then you’ll want to ensure the shoes you get are synthetic or leather and allow your feet to breath. There are specific winter cycling shoes for cold and wet riding, and it may be worth having two pairs if you are riding outside during all seasons.

Some of the Best Cycling Shoes

Performance Cycling Shoe

Shimano RP9

The RP9 road performance shoes are the quality and fit of a pro-level shoes, but at a much more affordable price point. They are designed for performance and speed, but with the heat moldable Custom-Fit, they are also comfortable enough for those long rides while giving you the ultimate power transfer. With a weaved carbon composite sole and a one piece synthetic leather upper, they are lightweight, breathable, and secure.

These shoes come in both men’s and women’s models.

Mid-Range Cycling Shoe

Men’s – Giro Treble II

The Treble II is exactly what you think of when you picture a cycling shoe. It’s simple, functional, and is compatible with both SPD and SPD-L cleats. The classic 3-strap closure makes for easy adjustments, but isn’t quite as durable or secure as it’s lace, ratchet, or dial counterparts. However, these are great entry level shoes that will having you set for a PR on your favourite climb with amazing efficiency and comfort.

Women’s – Shimano RP2

The entry level show in Shimano’s lineup, the RP2 is compatible with both SPD and SPD-L. The lightweight fibreglass soles increase power output, with the classic three strap upper keeping your foot firmly in place. The women’s model features a narrower fit, reduced volume, and added support in the instep to maximize comfort.

Leisure / Commuter cycling shoe

Women’s – Giro Whynd Womens Road Cycling Shoes

The best of both worlds. The sole of the Whynd is rigid enough to prevent the loss of power while remaining comfortable enough to walk in, featuring rubber “walking zones” to provide grip. The recessed cleat area accommodates two-bolt cleats, and the large strap across the top provides security and keeps the laces out of the way. These are perfect for weekend touring or running errands on your bike.

Men’s – Giro Rumble VR Cycling Shoes

The Giro Rumble features vibram soles for the ultimate support and casual look while out at the pub, with an injected inner shank to transfer power and have you feeling strong when you hop back on your bike. The mesh/microfiber upper upper will keep your feet from sweating and the non-slip laces will keep you nice and secure- no matter what the day brings.

Switching to Clipless Pedals

September 30, 2015 by Adam Farabaugh

When to Switch to Clipless PedalsRiding clipless pedals allows you to ride further, faster, and over more technical terrain while giving you a smoother, more comfortable pedal stroke.  The only real downside is falling over when you come to a stop because you forgot to unclip before stopping; more of a hit to your morale than your body.  Switching to clipless pedals at the proper time along with taking the time to learn how to use them properly will take your riding up a level whether it is on the road or mountain bike.

Timing the Switch

When you start out riding a bike you want to be focused on the riding itself, making sure you know how to shift, brake, and keep it upright and going in the direction you want without having to think about it.  Adding in clipless pedals at this time just throws in another hurdle at the same time.  Riders should start riding their road or mountain bike with standard flat pedals for their first ten to twenty rides.  This time allows you to not only become proficient at riding but to the point that you can ride, negotiate turns, hills, and descents without having to think about it.  It is already second nature to you.  You need to get to this point before adding in clipless pedals otherwise they will be more challenging to learn how to use than needed.

Once you have completed ten to twenty rides on flat pedals and are extremely comfortable riding, it is time to switch to clipless pedals.  You may have noticed limitations with flat pedals both on the road and mountain bike.  Clipless pedals keep your foot secure in one location on the pedal as well as allowing you to pull up through the backside of the pedal stroke.  This allows you to ride much more efficiently as well as with more power, specifically on climbs where your cadence slows and you’re trying to get any help you can get pushing the pedals.  Also, on bumpy trails and technical climbs on the mountain bike, clipless pedals will keep your feet on the pedals, lessening the risk of them coming off and hitting your shin on the pedals, or worse, crash.

One fear that riders have in switching to clipless pedals is having their feet still engaged in the pedal in the event of a crash.  One of the big benefits to clipless pedals is that they are spring loaded, like ski bindings, and when there is enough force they will disengage.  The release point on most pedals can be adjusted giving you the comfort of knowing that if you do crash your feet won’t be stuck in the pedals.

Tips on Starting Out

Now that you’re comfortable on the bike and have your first set of clipless pedals and shoes, it’s time to practice to ensure that you know how they work and that you don’t fall over in front of everyone at that first red-light.  The first step is to sit on your seat and lean against something so you can stay in one place while spinning the pedals backwards.  The pedals work by first engaging the front part of the cleat (the piece that is attached to your shoe), on most pedal systems, and then pressing the back part of the cleat down into the pedal.  A good way is to point your toes a little bit and then drop your heel.  The biggest thing is lining up the cleat to the pedal itself.  With practice, you will feel where your foot should fall relative to the pedal.

To clip out, simply twist the heal of your foot out and that will disengage the pedal from your cleat.  Practice this with both feet multiple times until you can do it comfortably.

Now that you can comfortably clip in and out in place, it’s time to do it while riding.  Starting out, find a flat to slightly downhill stretch to get rolling on.  With one foot still on the ground, clip the other into the pedal and bring it to the top of the pedal stroke.  Then push off with the foot that is on the ground and give a big push of the pedal with the foot that’s already clipped in.  Now you will have some momentum and can now clip in your other foot.  Make sure this is on a safe stretch of road or area as you won’t be paying attention to traffic but rather your feet.

Now that you have both feet clipped in and have taken a couple of pedal strokes, it’s time to unclip.  While coasting put one foot down to the bottom of the pedal stroke and unclip (twisting your heel out).  Now you can come to a stop and put your foot on the ground.

Now do the above again, and again, and again.  You want to be comfortable finding your pedals and getting clipped in quickly as well as unclipping.  Once you can do this comfortably, off you ride.  During your first few rides you will have to focus on clipping in and out but once you do it enough it will become a habit and a breeze.  You can now take advantage of all the benefits of having clipless pedals without any of the downsides since you practiced and are now a pro at clipping in and out.

To Clip or not to Clip

May 6, 2014 by U.M.

To Clip or not to Clip

to clip or not to clip cliplessThere’s something about making the switch to clipless pedals that seems to signal to the world that you’ve made the jump from casual biker to biking enthusiast. But is the expense worth it? Are clipless pedals really necessary in order to take your cycling experience to the next level? [Read more…]

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