Symptoms of Bad Bike Fit

September 8, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

We talk a lot about the importance of a proper bike fit, but paying for a professional fit can seem daunting. It’s not exactly rocket science, but there are a lot of little adjustments that can make a huge difference. It’s hard to put a monetary value on being comfortable on a bike, but riding and being uncomfortable is only going to lead to riding less to not at all. Here are some symptoms of a bad bike fit, and how you can go about fixing them.

Bowed Knees

When pedalling, if your knees are pointing outwards, you may not feel any pain, but you look funny and you’re wasting energy. If your thighs feel the burn a little too much when your climbing, it could be a sign your saddle is too low. The solution? Raise your saddle height in small increments until your legs remain parallel to the frame through each revolution.

Aching Hands

If you’ve ever been twenty minutes into a ride only to have your hands start aching no matter how you position them on the bars, then you know how distracting it can be. Another symptom of a bad bike fit can be hand and wrist pain. If your saddle is too high (or tilted too far forward), your handlebars too low, or your either too cramped or too stretched it can result in putting too much of your weight through the front of the bike and onto your hands.

Neck Pain

Neck pain often goes hand in hand with cycling, especially for beginners, and the problem may not be entirely bike fit. Holding your head up to keep your eyes on the road for extended periods of time is tough, especially if you have a weak core. However, neck pain can also be inked to having a high seat post in relation to your bars.

When the seat post is too high it can place you in an aggressive position, which your body may not be ready for. It’s a better tactic to gradually increase the aero position as you get used to cycling. Additionally, if your road or aero bars are too far away causing you to overreach you can place unnecessary strain on these muscles. The solution would be to place the bars closer in relation to your body so you’re in a “tucked” position when riding.

Wobbly Hips and Lower Back Fatigue

Lower back pain is more often a result of a weak core, but if your hips are rocking side to side as you pedal your seat is too high, which can result in lower back fatigue. Lower the seat gradually, riding a flat circuit in between until you’ve found the perfect saddle height. When you do find it, be sure to mark it somehow so you can easily find it again.

Knee strain

Knee pain in the back or sides of the knee is likely a saddle that is too high, but could also be your cleat position. On your downstroke, your foot shouldn’t be pointed down. Instead, you should be pushing the pedal down through the heel.

Foot Numbness or Tingling

Foot numbness usually occurs when the nerves between the bones under the ball of the foot become compressed. The likely culprit here is shoe fit, cleat position or socks. Particularly if the cleat is too far forward it can cause numbness, as it places pressure on the ball of your foot.

What Is Bike Geometry?

July 9, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

Bike geometry is the collection of measurements (lengths and angles) that make up a bike frame. In short, everything on a bike can be changed, but the geometry cannot. Looking at geometry charts on manufacturer’s websites can be confusing, but all those numbers translate into very real and understandable concepts.

There is a lot to know about bike geometry, but understanding the basics can go a long way in ensuring you choose the right bike for your style of riding. Bike geometry can help you understand how a bike will handle, feel, and how comfortable it will be to you.

Most bike manufacturers provide bike geometry charts within the description of the bike, but what is included does vary. Most will include frame size, head and seat tube lengths, top tube length, wheelbase, and chainstay length. Others will also include stack and reach measurements, fork rake, bottom bracket drop, and trail.

Stack and Reach

Stack and reach are the two fundamental elements that can help you determine right away if a bike will fit you. This is especially important because it helps standardize fit between size and manufacturer. Even if a bike is labelled as “medium” or 53cm, the actual fit can differ by up to 2 cm.

Stack is the vertical distance (in cm) from the center of the frame’s bottom bracket to the top of the head tube, where the fork passes through the frame. It gives an indication of how tall a frame is.
Reach is the horizontal distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top-centre of the head tube. This gives an indication of how long a frame is excluding the stem.

Head Tube Angle, Fork Rake, and Trail

Head Tube

The head tube angle is the angle of the head tube in relation to the ground, with the angle being either ‘slack’ or ‘steep.’ The classic head tube angle for a road bike is 73 degrees, so a steeper angle (higher number) will mean less effort to steer making it better for high speeds. A more slack angle (lower number) may require more effort to steer, but perform much better at slow speeds.

Head tube length is just what is sounds like. Longer head tubes result in a more upright riding position. Short head tubes lower the front of the bike, putting you in a more aerodynamic position.

Fork Rake (Offset)

Fork rake or fork offset is the distance between the steering axis and the wheel center. Whether the fork is curved forward or is straight, but angles, if the offset is the same then it will handle the same. Generally speaking, less fork rake will increase the trail as the center of the wheel is moved back from the steering axis, and more fork rake means less trail.

Trail

Trail is a bit more complicated, and can be difficult to wrap your brain around. Think of it as the tire patch trailing behind the steering axis, determined by the head tube angle and the fork rake. The steeper the headtube angle, the less trail there will be.

Its impact on the feel of the bike is arguably more important and much simpler. A small amount of trail will result in a fast handling bike, meaning it will require less rider input and will handle well at high speeds. The downside is a certain amount of twitchiness, making for a rougher ride. A large amount of trail will result in a slow handling bike, so it will take more work from the rider to steer at high speeds, but will feel more stable and smooth.

Bottom Bracket Drop

The bottom bracket drop is effectively how low you sit on the bike. It is measured by the vertical distance the center of the bottom bracket sits below the wheel axis.

The lower (more) the bottom bracket drop, the better the bike will corner and the faster it will respond (as your center of gravity is lower). The issue is pedal clearance, because the bottom bracket can only be so low before the pedals will catch ground while leaning into a corner.

Less bottom bracket drop will feel more stable at slow speeds, but will be reluctant to corner. This means more input from you through the handlebars to corner.

Seat Tube Angle

The seat tube angle is the angle of the seat tube in relation to the ground. This angle will generally be between 71-74 degrees, and doesn’t vary as much as the head tube angle. You can effectively influence the seat tube angle by changing the saddle position to be more slack or steep.

Chainstay Length

Chainstay length is the horizontal distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the rear axle.

The chainstay length impacts the length of the wheelbase (distance between front and rear wheel axles) as well as the handling of the bike. Bikes with long chainstays will have more stability, as well as allowing room for panniers, making great touring and endurance bikes. Performance bikes, however, will have a shorter chainstay length for sharper handling.

Each measurement on its own can give you a snapshot into how a bike will fit and feel, but they all rely on each other. To get an idea, try looking at two bikes with very different geometry and then ride each one, paying attention to how it handles. You can then refer to those charts, picking out elements that worked and others that didn’t. For more information, getting a professional bike fit is always a great place to start in figuring out what will work best for you and your type of riding.

Cycling Foot Pain, Tingling, and Numbness

June 4, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

It’s common for cyclists to experience tingling or numbness in their hands, but what does it mean when it shows up in your toes and feet? Foot numbness usually occurs when the nerves between the bones under the ball of the foot become compressed. Besides numbness, symptoms can show up as cycling foot pain, tingling, bruising, or even a burning sensation. Here’s what you need to know about the common causes, and what you can do to treat it.

The Common Causes of Cycling Foot Pain

Shoe Fit

The first thing to look at is the fit of your cycling shoes. A pair of shoes that fit you correctly will feel as though they are not there, you should forget about your shoes while riding. Getting fit for the right shoes goes a long way towards comfort. Take your time when trying shoes, feeling out any potential pressure points. If you have wider than average feet, then make sure you get shoes that are wide enough.

If your shoes are too tight, it can cause inflammation between the joints as it decreases blood circulation, as well as constrict the ball of the foot. This can cause numbness, as well as a tingling sensation during and even after a ride.

Cleat Position

Correct cleat placement, just like the correct shoe, will let you forget that they are even there. Placing the cleats poorly can lead to uncomfortable foot position and can cause pain in nerves from pressure points or strain from improper twisting of the foot. Particularly if the cleat is too far forward it can cause numbness, as it places pressure on the ball of your foot. Take the time to dial in your cleat placement whether on your own, or with a professional bike fit.

Socks

Socks may be the most overlooked element of the foot pain complex. You want a sock that does not bunch up or is too bulky so that it creates pressure points in an otherwise fine shoe. They should keep your feet at the right temperature too. If they are too hot, it could lead to more swelling, exacerbated pressure points and chafing. Feet that are too cold start to hurt from the lack of blood flow or frostbite.

Technique

Climbing without proper pedaling technique or too slow of a cadence can put too much pressure on the balls of your feet and make them go numb. Ensure you are keeping your cadence within the proper range, and as consistent as possible.

Treatment and Prevention

Exercises on the Bike

While out on a ride, pay attention to your feet before the problems show up. If you’re going for a long ride, then try unclip and lift your foot up into the air at the top of the pedal stroke a few times to get your blood flowing. When you’re sitting at red lights, or stopping for a break, then flex your toes or do some circles with your ankles. You can even get off and walk a few paces if need be (although this can be awkward with cycling shoes).

Shoe Modifications

If you find your feet are painful, or going numb during rides, then try invest in some custom arch supports. These can help distribute your weight more evenly and decrease the pressure placed on the ball of your foot and on your toes.

Stretching & Rolling

There are some exercises and stretches you can do off the bike, especially before a ride, to help treat and prevent foot pain. The first is to sit with one leg up on your other knee, fingers locking into your toes. Then rotate your foot around with your hand, stretching out the ankle joint and getting the blood flowing.

Second, you can use a tennis ball or a roller to apply pressureto the bottom of your foot. This can be painful, so don’t apply too much pressure if it’s too uncomfortable. Simply place the ball or roller under your foot, then roll front to back.

If your feet are comfortable while you ride, then it’s going to be a whole lot more fun. Never look at foot pain as an inevitable side effect of cycling, and make sure you do what you can to prevent it.

How To Find the Best Bike Saddle For You

March 11, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

An uncomfortable bike saddle can quickly turn your bike from an instrument of joy to one of torture. Not only can it be extremely painful, but it can also lead to long term injuries or saddle sores as you contort your position on the bike trying to lessen the discomfort. There are a number of factors that contribute to how comfortable bike saddle is, but the most important one is you.

We are all built differently, so there is no “one size fits all” when it comes to a perch for your unique bottom. What feels comfortable to one person, will feel like torture to another. So, we will outline some things to look into before starting the search for you dream saddle, but keep in mind that it will likely come down to trial and error.

Saddle Features

Width

You may think that the wider the saddle, the more comfortable it would be, but this is not the case. Neither are narrow saddles the be all end all when it comes to finding the best fit. The first step towards finding the most comfortable bike saddle is to measure the distance between your sit bones. This can be done with an “Assometer” at your local bike shop, or at home with a piece of paper and a pencil. Once you know the distance between your sit bones you will want to add 2 cm, 1 cm past the sit bones on each side.

If a saddle is too wide, the nose of it can start to rub on the inside of your quads. If it is too narrow then you sit bones will not be your main point of support for your weight. The pressure will then come down onto soft tissue, which can be extremely painful over any amount of time or distance.

Cut outs

The popularity of cut outs largely came from a 1997 study. It claimed that reduced blood flow caused by saddle pressure could potentially lead to erectile dysfunction and permanent reproductive failure in men. Although this has since been disproved, the concern is still there. It comes down to personal preference and what feels most comfortable to you.

A test to see if you might benefit from a center cut-out is to sit on a hard wooden chair or bench and lean forward without arching your back to where you can rest your elbows on your knees. Sit like this for a few minutes and if you find that there is adverse pressure and discomfort on the soft tissue being pressured then you will most likely benefit from a cut-out in your saddle.

Softness / Firmness

It’s easy to think that the more padding a saddle has the more comfortable it will be, but it actually puts more pressure on sensitive areas. It can pinch and chafe rather than support your sit bones. The ideal firmness will put enough weight on your sit bones, while still providing enough padding to be comfortable. Some riders prefer no padding at all as it puts the pressure exactly where they want it, but that isn’t the case for everyone.

Shape

There are two general shapes for saddles when viewed from above: T-shaped and pear-shaped. If you have issue with chafing or your quads rubbing together, then T-shaped will be the better option for you. A pear-shaped saddle can be good fit if you shift your position a lot while riding, as there will be more evenly dispersed support.

The second aspect of saddle shape if how flat or rounded the surface it. When viewed from the back, how much curvature does the saddle have? You want it to be slightly curved to keep you centered on the saddle, but not so curved that there is pressure on the central areas between your sit bones.

Gender Specific

Looking at saddles designed specifically for men or women may be a good place to start, but don’t let it dictate your decision. Women typically have wider set sit bones, and therefore require slightly wider saddles. That being said, many women find mens saddles that work perfect for them, just as many men ride on womens saddles.

Comfortable Bike Saddles

Touring Saddles

Brooks B17

$120

The B17 design was first introduce in 1910, so it may seem odd to be highlighting it here. However, the fact that this saddle has changed very little over the past century speaks to “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” It was made for those long distance tours, with a wider shape and a slim, short nose making it ideal for a more upright position on the bike. Handmade in Birmingham, this leather saddle molds to your bottom over time, giving you the ultimate personalized support.

Selle Anatomica X Series

$150

Unlike the Brook saddle, the X series has no break in period, and is quite comfortable for most riders right from the start. The leather top is supported by a stiffer laminate layer glues to the underside, striking the balance between comfort and durability. The slot shape is meant to eliminate perineal pressure, sit bone pain, and saddle sores.

All-Rounder Saddles

Bontrager Montrose Elite Saddle

$130

Intended to be one of the more all-purpose saddles on the market, the Bontrager Montrose Saddle has been perfected year after year. It uses something called inForm BioDynamics to optimize your natural movement on the bike. This helps eliminate any restrictions on your legs or power output, whether racing or heading out for a group ride.

Fabric Scoop Pro Saddle

$170

It may not look like much, but this simple design is one of the more popular in recent years. Available in three shapes to suit your position on the bike, you can find a specific fit to your riding style. It brings together the perfect combination of comfort, performance, and unique construction. Plus, with the waterproof microfiber, the Fabric Scoop is durable and will stand up to years of use.

Racing Saddles

Selle San Marco Mantra

$214

Weighing in at just 122.1g, this saddle is for racers who are worried about adding any weight to their bike. The stiff design allows for an efficient transfer of power, and is made for those who ride in an aggressive position.

Ritchey WCS Carbon Streem

$144

This light (155g), low-profile design and narrow carbon fibre injected shell is built for the faster riders who prize long-term support. The comfort comes from the shock-absorbing ‘Vector Wing’ rather than padding, so the flat profile will suit hardened racers, but can seem harsh for casual riders.

It is extremely important to find a saddle that not only fits your contour, but is also comfortable. Your saddle is the most important comfort piece on the bike as it holds the majority of your weight, so don’t rush into it. Even with the right size saddle, flat-ness, firmness, and cut-out preference, you may have to adjust your saddle further through minor tilt adjustments.

How Beneficial is Yoga for Cyclists?

December 17, 2019 by Sarah Lauzé

How beneficial is yoga for cyclists? There are a lot of misconceptions around yoga, and you may scoff at the idea of it improving how you feel on your bike. However, more and more pros are using yoga as their secret weapon to get faster and prevent injury.

So, what can the ancient discipline of yoga bring to modern day cyclists? Whether you ride to get stronger and faster, or just because you love it, yoga can be a great tool.

4 Benefits of Yoga for Cyclists

Core Strength

A strong core is vital for cycling power, posture, and injury prevention, especially in your lower back region. As a result of the bent over position on your bike, many cyclists have highly developed back muscles, with comparatively weaker abdominal muscles.

This muscular imbalance is normal, but can cause issues in the long run. If you’re tired at the end of a long ride and have poor core strength, you will be more likely to slump in the saddle. This will place undue pressure on your shoulders and wrists, as well as cause lower back pain once off your bike.

Flexibility & Posture

Much in line with your core strength, maintaining proper posture on your bike will prevent injury. The natural inclination is to round your back as you crane your head to look forward. Not only does this create drag, but it will eventually cause pain in your lower and upper back and neck.

Everything in your body is connected. So, to maintain proper bike posture you have to have adequate flexibility in your lower back, hips, glutes, and hamstrings. The flatter your back can be, the less issues you’ll come up against in your training. Yoga can help you not only build the strength and flexibility to hold your posture, but also help you become constantly aware of how your body is feeling.

Breathing

You may not put much thought into your breathing when you’re attacking a hill. The pressing thought for most is to simply keep breathing, even if it looks more like panting. However, when transformed from an automatic function, it can be great training tool.

Yoga can help you learn how to monitor your breathing, making the most of each breath. It can train your body to take slower and deeper breaths to maximize your oxygen intake.

Injury Prevention

Yoga is ideally injury prevention rather than treatment, but it can help on both ends of the spectrum. Regular stretching and yoga will reduce your risk of suffering from the typical overuse injuries that plague cyclists. These include IT band syndrome, tight hamstrings, back pain, and knee problems.

Because your legs never fully extend on the bike, your muscles get little chance to fully lengthy. There is also an imbalance of strength, with so much power coming from certain muscles, while others remain underdeveloped. Ensuring you are working and stretching these muscles off the bike will go a long way to keep things balanced.

There are a lot of different types of yoga, so you can try different ones until you find on that fits. For those that struggle with having the discipline to stretch, it can be a great way to ensure you are giving your body what it needs to recover. Even switching out just one of your rides a week for a yoga session will help your overall strength and power on your bike. A great budget friendly option you can try from home is this online stretching and yoga program called Dynamic Cyclist, specifically for cyclists.

How To Choose Bike Stem Length

June 24, 2019 by Sarah Lauzé

When viewed in the context of an entire bike, stem length is one of the more minor adjustments you can make. That being said, it can affect the overall feel and handling of your bike in some not-so-minor ways.

Historically, stems were not adjustable or interchangeable. It wasn’t until the late 19th century when Marshall Taylor invented an adjustable stem, using a sliding clamp to move the handlebars towards or away from the rider. Now bike stem length can vary from 50mm all the way up to 150mm and beyond.

Every part of a bike is connected. So, swapping out the stem on a wrong sized bike can be a quick fix, but you have to take into account that it will effect the bike’s overall feel and handling.

What should decide bike stem length?

The first thing you need to look at is not your bike, but your own priorities when it comes to:

Comfort
Performance
Steering and handling

Generally speaking, race bikes that place the rider in a low, aerodynamic position will need to have a longer stem. This also works to get more weight out in front of the wheel. In contrast, touring bikes will have shorter stems to keep the rider in a more upright position and provide responsive steering at slower speeds.

When choosing bike stem length consider:

1. Weight Distribution

Stem length dictates how much weight is placed on the front wheel . The longer the stem, the more weight will be pushing forward on the bars, making the bike more stable at high speeds. This can, however, make for a less responsive feel.

2. Steering

The steering of a bike is dictated by the head angle and trail, but the length of the stem can enhance or dull these effects. Short stems steer more like a steering wheel, providing immediate response, but can cause a twitchy feel. The longer the stem, the slower the handling can be, making it more difficult to steer at slow speeds, but more stable at high speeds.

Reversing the Stem

Reversing the stem is one of the most effective ways to make your bike more comfortable as it raises your handlebars to a more comfortable position. The majority of stems can be flipped as they are angled for two handlebar heights.

One position is aggressive and flat, the other is angled upward for a more upright torso which can alleviate stress on the lower back as well as the amount of weight on the hands. Take a look at your stem. If it has a high degree of tilt in either direction, it can typically be reversed depending on what you need to get comfortable.

The Long and Short of It

Getting the right bike stem length can make a huge difference to how you feel on your bike. You may be surprised at the difference even 10mm can make! If you have persistent numbing in your wrists or hands, it could be that the stem is too short. In contrast, if you are too stretched out, it can cause injury to your back.

Stem length needs to be looked at in relation to the bike size and geometry, and there is no definite answer of what would be best for you. It is a very individualized thing, and you have to look at your priorities before deciding to switch out your stem. Before experimenting with it too much, visit your local bike shop or try getting a profession bike fit to ensure everything is adjusted just right for you and your riding style.

Avoid the Pain in the Butt: Find a Comfortable Bike Saddle

December 19, 2017 by Sarah Lauzé