I Love Bicycling

I Love Bicycling is a website that is geared towards cycling for beginners with road cycling tips, training articles, nutrition tips, weight loss, how to’s and bike repair articles.

Gear

Wide Cycling Shoes: Finding the Best Fit

by

If you have wide feet, you know the feeling. A numbing pain and screaming pinky toes that have had enough of being crushed into the side of an ill-fitting cycling shoe. The good news it: you’re not alone. There are specifically made wide cycling shoes to cater to your aching toes.

Clipless pedals are a must when it comes to efficient pedalling on a bike, but their coinciding cycling shoes can be a little unforgiving. Unlike regular shoes, cycling shoes are rigid, most often made from materials that do not stretch out over time. So, if you’re feet measure somewhere in between hobbit feet and flippers, then here are some of the best options out there.

Wide Cycling Shoes

Before You Buy New Shoes

Wide Cycling Shoes

Getting a pair of specific wide cycling shoes, or at least a brand that has a bit more breathing room, is going to be your best option. However, before you make the investment, make sure you’ve tried everything to make your current shoes work.

  • Try ultra-thin socks – Assuming it’s not below freezing where you’re riding, trying a super thin pair of socks could help create enough space in your shoes to make them work. Check out Castelli’s line of thin cycling socks, or Swiftkick Aspire. Even if they don’t fix the shoe problem, they are great cycling socks to have.
  • Get a bike fit – Make sure the problem really is being caused by shoes that are too tight, and not an improper bike fit. If your cleats are not in the right spot, or if your saddle isn’t adjusted properly, it can cause pain in your feet. It’s worth a visit to your local bike shop for a bike anyways if you haven’t had one.

Finding The Right Fit

If you’re buying shoes in a store, you can actually take the insole out and measure it against your foot if you’re not sure how the shoe should feel. Your heel should be right at the back of the insole, and there should be 3-5mm from the end of your toes the top of the insole.

If you’re buying online, you will need to measure your foot. Get a regular piece of paper and put it on the floor, right up against a wall. Place your foot on the paper, with your heel pushed against the wall. Draw a line at the end of your big toe. Measure the length in cm, and add 5mm to the number to establish the length of shoe you need. You will also want to measure the circumference of the widest part of your foot. You can then reference these numbers with sizing charts from the manufacturer you choose to buy your shoes from.

Wide Cycling Shoes

It can be tempting to just go a size bigger when you’re purchasing cycling shoes for some extra room, but this can actually cause even more problems. The extra length may feel good on your toes while you’re in the store, but it will cause your feet to slip within the shoe when you’re clipped in. Not only will this feel awful, but it can cause your cleat to be placed too far forward, taking a toll on your power and efficiency.

That being said, there are shoes made specifically for wide feet that will ensure your toes are nice and comfy, but keep your foot is locked into the correct position. See the following for some of the best options out there.

Shimano Men’s RP3

Wide Cycling Shoes

$109

Shimano has the most options when it comes to the wider fit, offering regular and wide sizes on most of their shoes. The Shimano RP3 cycling shoes are a great entry level shoe, with a fiberglass reinforced nylon sole and three adjustment points for the perfect fit.

Lake CX 237 Wide Road Shoe

Wide Cycling Shoes

$289

Exactly the same as the CX237 shoe, the wide version gives an additional 15mm wiggle room compared to the regular width. With a carbon sole, and two micro-adjustable Boa dials, you have the ability to make adjustments to the fit of the heel and forefoot so you get a secure fit without sacrificing your circulation.

Bont: Riot or Vaypor

Wide Cycling Shoes

Riot: $99

Vaypor: $199+

They may be harder to find, but Bont Cycling has a few heat-molding shoe options that make them popular for those with wide feet. The Riot and Vaypor models both offer a custom fit through heat-molding that can be repeated until you are happy with the result.

Shimano R321

Wide Cycling Shoes

$299

The Shimano R321 was released in 2016 with heat moldable Custom-Fit technology applied through to the upper, insole, and heel cup. This does not, however, allow for a widening of the shoe in general, so they have a wide version available in each size. The sole construction itself gives an extra 11mm of adjustment range, so you can find the ideal shoe-pedal connection.

A Guide to Bike Tire Sizes

by

When you’re looking to replace a tube or tire, it’s important to understand tire sizing. You’d think the markings on tires would make this simple, but all those numbers can be confusing. It doesn’t help that in the early days of cycling, there was no standard system for marking the sizes. Here’s what you need to know about bike tire sizes.

Bike Tire Sizes

A Guide to Bike Tire Sizes

Traditional Sizing Systems

The traditional sizing systems were based on the measurement of the outside of diameter of the tire, so it would be listed as diameter x width. However, the evolution of tires and rims has made these measures inaccurate when it comes to compatibility. Each manufacturer had their own set of sizing standards that only applied to their bikes, so it was hard to buy tires, tubes, and wheels from different manufacturers with confidence that they would be compatible.

The ISO

To remove the headache that was trying to decipher manufacturer’s varied measurements, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) created a system to regulate tire measurement. Most new tires will now show the ISO measurement of: width x diameter.

Tire Diameter

The most important measurement of the tire is the diameter, then the width. The actual outer diameter of the tire may vary based on the tread pattern, so the BDS (bead seat diameter) is the measurement of the inner diameter of the tire. You can find this measurement on the side wall, where you should see two numbers separated by an x (ie: 700×23 or 26×2.10). The BDS is the larger of the two numbers, listed in either inches (700) or mm (26).

Tire Width

The second, smaller number is the tire’s width. As the width increases, the tire will have more contact surface with the road, making it more stable and comfortable. As the width decreases, there is less rolling resistance or friction, and therefore is faster. Road bike tires generally come in three widths: 23c, 25c, and 28c (their width in mm). The letter at the end of a tire size is a throwback to an old French system when the letters a, b and c designated different inner tire diameters – it DOES NOT stand for cm.

When it comes to choosing width, there are two major factors at play. First is what will fit your bike and wheels, and second is what best fits your riding style for comfort and speed. Generally speaking, a width of 25mm will work for most riders. They are widely recognized as the best compromise between comfort, weight and performance. Racers will opt for a smaller width, or if you’re tackling rougher roads, going up to 28mm may be the best option.

In most cases, if you’re replacing a tire you can just look at the numbers on the old one and match them. However, this can become an issue if the old tire isn’t available, or if you’re not sure which number to go off.

For more on bike tire sizing and ensuring you choose the right one, check out the video below.

 

A Guide To Spring Cycling Clothing

by

It’s an exciting time when the snow starts to melt off the roads and the look of bare pavement has you dusting off your bike. Spring riding can be some of the best of the season, but the unpredictable weather can present a bit of a challenge. When it goes from sun to rain to snow within the span of a couple hours, dressing for the elements takes some planning. Your spring cycling clothing list will look a little different than any other time of year as it needs to be adaptable.

As with most things, there’s no ‘one-size-fits-all’ solution. It depends on your type of riding, how long you’re going for, and how hot or cold you typically are when on your bike. Layering is the best way to ensure you can stay warm enough, but also won’t overheat if the temperature rises while you’re out. If you do get too warm, you can simply peal off a layer and continue on.

Main Articles of Spring Cycling Clothing

Base Layer

If you’ve been rocking a long sleeved base layer all winter, it may be time to switch it out for a short sleeved. Combined with a jersey and arm warmers, a light base layer can be just enough to keep your core warm. It also serves to wick moisture away from your skin to avoid getting chilled when you hit a descent.  Try choose a base layer made from polypropylene or merino wool, like the Castelli Seamless Base Layer.

Long Sleeved Jersey /Lightweight Shell

Depending on your preference, you’ll likely switch out the thick winter coat for either a lightweight shell or a long sleeved jersey. A long sleeved jersey is a great option for those warmer days as it offers much more breathability. There are also options in material that include a wind breaking fabric. Most will offer a full zipper down the front, making it easy to take on or off, and three pockets in the back to stash your snacks. A light weight shell can be worn over a regular cycling jersey, and rolled up into a pocket when not needed.

Arm and leg warmers

These simple Lycra accessories are great if you’re cold when heading out, but know you will be heating up quickly. They are easy to take on and off, and roll up small for easy storage in a jersey pocket. You’ll want to try them out before hand and make sure the fit properly. They need to loose enough to be comfortable, but tight enough to stay in place (especially important for leg warmers).

Gloves

Time to ditch the winter gloves and opt for a lightweight pair that won’t have your hands sweating 10 minutes into your ride. A lightweight, breathable pair of gloves are just enough to keep your fingers warm on that chilly morning commute.

Cycling Cap

A cycling cap is for both function and style. During spring riding, it can keep your head warm and help keep rain out of your eyes. Click here for some of the best cycling caps out there for every type of rider.

Ensuring you are prepared both technically and physically with the right clothing will have you jumping into the cycling season in no time. Spring riding can be some of the best rides, so don’t let the conditions deter you from getting out there!

The Best Cycling Backpacks for Commuters

by

If you don’t want to go for a full pannier set up, a backpack can be a great way to carry your things while out riding. Most commuters opt for a cycling backpack, as you can also use it as a daypack, rather than just on your bike. However, some backpacks can be uncomfortable while you’re in the riding position on your bike, so you want to get one that doesn’t get in your way while you ride.

Backpack or Panniers

The main appeal for panniers is that there is no pressure put on the riders bike. Especially during the summer, if you’re riding with something heavy in your bag, having it weighing on your back can make for a sweaty ride. However, pannier racks and bags can be a nuisance to transfer between bikes, whereas a backpack can be worn no matter what bike you’re on. The best cycling backpacks will use lightweight materials and include a venting system to help avoid the awkward ‘t-shaped’ sweat mark that can come from riding with a backpack. You will also want to ensure the bag is water resistant or comes with a waterproof cover.

The Best Cycling Backpacks

Osprey Packs Radial 26 Daypack

Best Cycling Backpacks

Price: $162

This cycling specific backpack from Osprey is one of the best out there. The harness and suspension system moves with you to provide incredible ventilation and comfort with heavy loads. There is also a helmet attachment to keep you hands free while you’re walking around. There is an integrated kickstand so the bag stay upright while you dig through your stiff, and the multitude of compartments make for easy organization. It’s hard to find a part of this bag that isn’t well designed, and it comes in both 26 and 34 liter versions.

Ortlieb Velocity Backpack

Best Cycling Backpacks

Price: $156

The Velocity Backpack from Ortlieb is the perfect bag for commuters who ride rain or shine. The design is simple, and with 20L you don’t have a ton of room, but it also fits snugly so you don’t have to worry about it flopping around as you ride. The foam backing and adjustable straps make for both ventilation and enhanced stability. The main compartment features a roll top with Velcro closure for easy access, and you can rest assured that your things will remain dry no matter what. There is a removable inner pocket for your smaller items like phone and wallet.

Deuter Race EXP Air Backpack

Best Cycling Backpacks

Price: $120

For those who struggle to find a pack that is long enough and fits just right, the Deuter Race Backpack is the answer. It’s long, sleek design features a flexible frame and three-sided ventilation to keep your back nice and cool. The mesh hip fins add stability, but are breathable and lightweight. There’s also a fold-away helmet flap, a wet laundry compartment, a rain cover, and reflectors on the front sides and back.

 

Proviz Reflect360

Price: $79 – $130

The Proviz Reflect360 rucksack is designed to keep you as visible as possible on the roads, no matter how dark it gets. Even the smallest amount of light will create a light bright enough to see a quarter of a mile away, giving drivers more time to react accordingly. The bag is completely waterproof, with aquaguard zippers, and has comfortable mesh backing.

 

Chrome Citizen Messenger Bag

 
Price: $140
Okay, so this one isn’t a backpack, but it’s a go-to for a lot of commuters. The classic looking messenger bag can fit a 17 inch laptop, is fully waterproof, and will last through years of use. Although it goes over only one shoulder, it fits snugly into your bag and won’t swing around as your ride. The Chrome Citizen bags are known for being almost indestructible.

How to Dry Your Cycling Shoes Quickly

by

You just got in from a ride in a surprise rain storm. Fortunately, your upper body is relatively dry because you packed your rain jacket, but your feet are totally soaked and you plan on riding tomorrow. What you need to know is how to dry your shoes quickly. You can just hope they dry in time but chances are that you’ll be slipping into cold, wet shoes which feels, oh so good. Additionally, if you are riding for performance, having wet shoes simply adds more rotational weight that you have to move around each pedal stroke.

First – Remove Everything You Can

If your shoes are so soaked that there are puddles in them, dump them out. Then take out the footbeds and set them aside to dry. They should dry out pretty quickly but just to be safe place them on newspaper in front of some sort of vent, whether it’s the heater, ac, or dehumidifier. Open up all of the buckles, straps, and tongues to expose as much of the shoe as possible.

Keep Some Old Newspapers Around

Old newspapers are great for drying out your shoes. You should have a bunch on hand because you will change the newspaper a few times. If you’re cheap and lazy you can dry out the newspapers and use them again. Once everything on the shoe is open, shove as much newspaper in as you can. It will soak up water very quickly. The first round of newspaper should only last twenty to thirty minutes. If the shoes are really wet, the newspaper will already have soaked through. After that, you can space out the fresh newspaper intervals. Try an hour, then two hours, then the overnight shift. By the time you wake up in the morning your shoes will be completely dry and ready to ride.

Accelerate the Drying

Do not keep your shoes in a moist basement or garage when they are drying. Bring them upstairs into a well ventilated and dryer area to maximize drying potential. If you have a fan, heat or AC vent, dehumidifier, or breezy window,  that is a bonus. Make sure you still place the newspapers in them however. You will get the drying benefits from the inside and out.

Clean Your Shoes

After a wet and sloppy ride, chances are your shoes got dirty with road grime. Be sure to clean them both for appearance and functionality. Do this in a sink while they are still wet with a scrub brush. It’s alright if you use a little water; they are already wet. All of that grime gets in the buckles and strap and can make them work poorly and not last as long. Then dry your shoes after they’re cleaned.

How to Dry Your Shoes Quickly

If you know how to dry your shoes quickly, it does not take a lot of effort. The only supplies you need are old newspapers that would go in the recycling anyway. You will run into adverse weather eventually, so it pays to prepare the equipment ahead of time as well as the knowledge to deal with it beforehand. Keep your feet dry and cozy!

The Best Step Through Bikes for City Riders

by

If you’ve ever struggled to get your leg up and over your bike, then you understand the reason for step through bikes. More and more manufacturers are coming to realize that there is huge market potential for easy to board bikes. Typically, even the best step through bikes suffered from weight bearing limitations, but with recent design breakthrough, they can make cycling more accessible to a lot of people.

What Are Step Through Bikes?

Step through bikes are pretty self explanatory. They are bikes with no top tube, making them easy to “step through” to mount. They often use a pedal forward design, with the pedals slightly forward of the seat tube. This makes it easier to maintain the proper seat to pedal distance, while also being able to put their feet flat on the ground while remain seated. The wheelbase will be a bit longer, which can effect handling, but it enhances the overall comfort.

Pro and Cons of Step Through Bikes

Historically, step through bikes have been regarded as women’s bikes as they allow the rider to wear a dress or skirt. However, more and more seniors, commuters, and heavier riders are opting for the easy to mount option. If you’re not quite as flexible and limber as you once were, then it’s a great option to keep you riding.

The biggest disadvantage of a step through frame is the weight, strength and stiffness. The regular diamond shaped design of most bikes is so widely used because it is the better design. The top tube gives the frame strength and stability, while allowing for the use of lightweight materials. To achieve the same strength, step through bikes have had to use heavier materials.

For city cruisers and commuters, the step through design can actually make the most sense. Stopping at stop lights and being able to remain seated while placing you feet on the ground can be plus for a lot of riders. Much more common in Europe, finding a step through bike can be a little tough depending on where you live. However, a lot of manufacturers will ship, so here are some of the best step through bikes.

The Best Step Through Bikes

Public C1

$395

If you live in a relatively flat area, the single speed Public C1 can be a great affordable option. Under $400, it has the iconic European style perfect for comfortable cruising.

Bike ID Step Through

$800

The Bike ID Step Through is made of Hi-Ten steel tubing, weighing in at 15.5kg or 34 lbs. It’s equipped with both a hand brake and a foot brake. Both brake and lever is made of aluminum, and due to a smart quick-release you can remove and replace the wheel without having to change the break settings. It is strong and durable, and will last through years of city cruising!

Shinola Bixby

$1950

The Bixby is offered in both a classic men’s and women’s frame design, with thoughtful touches like gender-specific saddle design and proportional geometry. The Bixby riffs off the fun look of the curved top tube, but improves on the fit and function with nimble frame geometry, a Shimano 3-speed internal hub and disc brakes. The Bixby is more of a hybrid between the step through and diamond design, giving the rider the best of both worlds.

Electra Amsterdam Royal 8i

$1400

The Royal 8i is a lightweight aluminum premium-edition Dutch bike: well-bred for stylish luxury and yet practical everyday cycling. Top-of-the-line Shimano Nexus 8-speed internal hub, smooth and powerful front and rear roller brakes and durable tires with Kevlar puncture-resistant casing are a few of the special upgraded features that make the Royal 8i worth every penny.

 

How To Remove Bike Grease From Your Clothes

by

It may be one of life’s mysteries, but no matter how careful you are, bike grease somehow seems to make it onto your clothes. Whether it’s your prized lycra or commuting attire, finding that little dark smudge can be a bummer. The truth is, it’s tough to remove bike grease from clothes, but luckily it’s not impossible!

Changing a flat or performing mid-ride drivetrain surgery can leave your hands a grimy mess. If you don’t have anything with you to take care of it, that grease is going to end up all over your bar tape or grips, and most likely make it onto your clothes. It also feels nasty on your hands. To avoid this, and in turn save your clothes, be sure to head out on every ride or commute prepared for the worst.

Step 1: Degreaser Wipes

You may not think of bringing degreaser wipes with you on every ride, but they definitely come in handy! They are an easy way to quickly clean grease off your bike and hands if you’ve had to do any roadside fixes, but they can also be the first stage of attack on grease spots on your clothes. Simply give the grease spot a quick wipe, as the longer it sits on the material the harder it will be to get out. You can then tackle it full force once you get home. You can get single serve packs that you can easily fit in your saddlebag, or use a ziplock bag to bring a couple from a larger container.

Step 2: Wash the Spot(s)

Option 1 – Use Dishwashing Liquid

Remove Bike Grease From Clothes

Once you get home, you can further remove bike grease from clothes with dishwashing liquid. This works best on recent stains on synthetic fabrics and cotton. Dish soap is great at fighting grease and breaking down oil, so it’s naturally up for the task. Put a small amount directly on the spot and rub it into the fabric with your fingers or an old toothbrush. For tougher stains, combine dish soap and a little of baking soda and stir it into a paste, then apply.

Once you’ve let this sit for a minute or two, rinse the area with cold water. Place the fabric under the tap, with the stain side down so the water is running through to the front of the stain. Hang it to dry, keeping an eye on the stain. If it’s gone, then you can wash and dry the garment as usual. If it reappears, repeat the process above. Make sure you never tumble dry an item of clothing with bike grease on it, as it well set the stain and make it almost impossible to remove.

Option 2 – Use Baking Soda

If you happen to ride your bike in your finest silk, wool, or another delicate cloth, then you’ll want to give these item a little extra love when the grease hits it. Cover the stain with dry baking soda and leave overnight. The powder should absorb the grease, making it easy to brush off in the morning. Wash as usual and hang to dry to ensure the stain does not reappear.

Best Road Bike Pedals

by

When you’re riding your bike, you make contact with it at three main points: the handlebars, the saddle, and the pedals. As your legs are working to drive the bike forward, the road bike pedals are arguably one of the most important components on a bicycle.

When we talk about road bike pedals, we are generally talking about the clipless cleat and shoe system. There are over the toe straps that can work great for some, but for the purposes of this article we are referring to the clipless (or strapless) system.

What are Clipless Pedals

Clipless pedals have a spindle just like a normal platform pedal, but the plastic or metal platform is shaped in a way to allow the second part of the system, a matching cleat, to snap into it. A spring-loaded mechanism then secures the cleat in place so it doesn’t slide around or release. A cleat is then attached to the cycling shoe, made specifically for these cleats to be attached to the bottom via bolts.

How they work

On the pedal there is a spring mechanism that holds the cleat to the pedal. To clip in, line the cleat up with the pedal and then push down, just like a ski binding. To release the shoe from the pedal, a simple twist of the heal outward releases the cleat.

Why go clipless?

Why go clipless? Clipless pedals with cycling shoes is the most efficient and comfortable system out there when it comes to road biking. The stiff sole of the cycling shoe provides a rigid platform to transfer power from your legs to the drivetrain and propel the bike forward. Softer shoes lose some of that power as the flexible sole deforms around the pedal (and also makes your feet sore).

As well as having stiff soles, being clipped in encourages proper pedalling technique, using power through every part of the pedal stroke. Not only are you pushing down, but you are also pulling up to complete the 360 degree motion, making the switch to clipless pedals well worth it.

What to look for when buying pedals

  • Cleats – The majority of  road cycling cleats are three bolt (SPD-L), with two bolt (SPD) being more appealing for commuting, touring, and mountain biking. Some cleats are a compatible with both.
  • Tension Adjustment – When you’re first switching to clipless pedals, the most intimidating thing is not being able to get unclipped quickly when you need to stop. The slow motion topple over is almost a right of passage, but it can be lessened by decreasing the tension. Be sure to get pedals that allow you to adjust this tension, starting low and increasing the tension as you become more confident.
  • Float – Float refers to the wiggle room you have while clipped into the pedal to get into the most comfortable position for your legs. Most pedals have about 3-9° of float, but keep in mind the more float you have the more you will have to twist your foot to release. Some pedals are zero float, but you will want to make sure you’ve had a detailed bike fitting before locking in with zero wiggle room.
  • Stack height – Stack height is the measurement from the middle of the pedal axle to the bottom surface of the shoe. The smaller the stack height, the more efficient your pedaling will be as your foot is closer to the axle.

The Best Road Bike Pedals

Best All-Round Pedal: Shimano Ultegra PD-R8000 SPD-SL Pedals

Price: $120

Before going into any of the features that make this pedal great, the ease of use is its greatest selling point. They require little to no maintenance, are durable,  and remain easy to clip in and out of even when mud and snow is involved. They also hang well when unclipped to make for a quick and easy clip in.

With a carbon composite body, these pedals are a great choice for competitive and casual cyclists alike. Evolved from the Pd-6800, the R-8000 has a 0.7mm lower stack height and a lighter weight at just 248g.

Most Adjustable Pedal: Speedplay Zero Pedals

Price: $189

If you struggle with knee pain, then these are the pedals for you. The twisting motion to release the pedal can be painful on the knee joint, so the Speedplay Zero allows the widest range of tension adjustment to ensure this isn’t a problem. All three foot-axis adjustments can be set independently of each other for a precise and comfortable fit. The locking mechanism does not rely on spring tension for security, so entering and exiting Zero pedals is easy, and they are dual-sided entry to allow for an easy clip in.

Most Budget-Friendly Pedal: Shimano PD-R550

Price: $56

The Shimano PD-R550 are the perfect pedal for cyclists looking to transition to the clipless system. Not only are they extremely affordable, but that have a wide platform that feels more like a traditional platform pedal while giving you the efficiency of being clipped in. There is a wide range of tension adjustments so you can start with a lower tension and build up your confidence. Made from a resin body with a stainless steel cover, they are durable and have a large entry point to keep from struggling to get your foot in just the right position.

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

by

Tubeless tires have been a mainstay of the mountain biking world for years, and have inevitably made their way into road cycling as well. With mountain biking, tubeless tires allow riders to run their pressure much lower, providing enhanced surface area and grip without the risk of pinch flats. Road tires, however, are more efficient when run at a higher pressure, so what is the benefit of going tubeless?

Traditionally there have been two main options for road cycling tires: clincher and tubular. Clinchers are the best option for the majority of riders, as they are easy to use and fix by swapping out or repairing the inner tube. Tubular tires are lighter and are used by a lot of racers, but unless you have a support vehicle following you on every ride, then replacing a tire is a painfully long and technical process.

Now there is a third option with tubeless tires, but are they worth the leap?

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

How do tubeless tires work?

Pros and Cons of Tubeless Tires for Road Cyclists

As the name suggests, tubeless tires do not have an inner tube, and are setup similar to a car tire. The open rubber tie sits firmly on the wheel’s rim, with the air sitting in the cavity between the rim and inside of the tire. In addition, a liquid sealant is used inside the tire to preemptively plug any small cuts in the tire without losing pressure at all.

Tubeless wheel setup

The nice thing about tubeless wheels is that they can be used with both a tubeless tire and the typical clincher (inner tube) setup. The shoulder in the inner rim will have a much more pronounced recess that the tire bead fits securely into (see diagram), rather than the traditional U-shaped rim bed on clincher wheels.

Tubeless tires themselves are designed with a tougher bead to provide an immediate seal with as perfect airtight fit. If you try to fit a tubeless tire on a clinched rim, it will come off as you add pressure.

Are tubeless tires worth it?

Pros

  • Speed – clincher tires have a level of friction between the tube and the tire that tubeless tires eliminate, lessening rolling resistance and making them faster.
  • Less flats – The tubeless setup rules out pinch flats completely, and dramatically lessens the danger of blowouts with the liquid sealant. This has a huge impact on the number of flats you’re likely to experience. Plus, if you do have a flat out on a ride that the sealant can’t handle, you can use a tube to get you home.
  • Comfort – Tubeless tires can be run at a lower pressure (dropping about 15-20 psi) without sacrificing performance. This can enhance your corner grip, traction, and overall comfort. You can even venture off road with the tires being a lot more forgiving than if they were running at full pressure.

Cons

  • Difficulty in fitting – As a system that depends on tight seals and high pressure, installing or removing the tire can be a difficult and frustrating job. So, while the likelihood of flats may be reduced, the process to fix it in the case of total failure can leave you swearing on the side of the road. You may even need an air compressor to get a proper seal.
  • Weight – Tubeless tires are largely heavier than a clincher setup, with thicker sidewalls that add weight.
  • Racers don’t use them – This may or may not matter to you, but racer’s do not use tubeless because of the added weight with minimal gain. However, for the recreational cyclist, the lower risk of flatting may be worth the sacrifice.

Tubeless tires are by no means taking over the roading cycling world (as they have with mountain biking), but as technology advances we may see them grow in popularity. Having tubeless-ready wheels is a great way to go, as it leaves the choice up to you whether you want to stick with clinchers or give tubeless a try.

The Difference Between Freewheel and Cassette

by

If you’ve been using the two terms (freewheel and cassette) interchangeably, don’t worry because you’re not alone. If you don’t know which you have on your bike, you can end up wasting a lot of money due to the error. We’re going to help remove some of the confusion by explaining the difference between freewheel and cassette freehubs.

freewheel and cassette

Freewheels (for Threaded Hubs)

Traditional rear hubs have a standardized set of threads that a freewheel or sprocket cluster can be screwed onto. This meant any brand of freewheel could be mounted on any brand of hub. The extractor splines do not turn when the sprockets are spun backwards.Freewheels come with sprockets bolted together, without possibility of swapping them. Pretty much all bikes made through the late 80s used this system.

Cassettes & Freehubs

Over the past few decades, the cassette replaced the conventional threaded rear hub. This newer style hub works so well that they have replaced the traditional freewheel and have become the new standard for contemporary road bikes. One of the major differences between a freewheel and a freehub is the location of the coasting mechanism

It incorporates the ratchet mechanism into the hub body, so you can replace the sprockets only, rather than the ratchet mechanism. Unlike the freewheel and threaded hub system, the lockring splines will turn with sprockets when spun backwards. Additionally, many  freehubs will have a distinctive bulge on the right end of the hub barrel.

 

freewheel and cassette

Whereas freewheels come with sprockets bolted together, without possibility of swapping them, cassettes come with loose sprockets that have spacing between them. Some cassettes do come with sprockets held together with bolts or rivets, but these are just for easier mounting – they can be removed without affecting functionality, so that individual sprockets can be swapped.

Which One Do I Have?

If you’re still not sure what you have on your bike, it’s possible to ID it by how it looks. Freewheel axles are typically recessed slightly into the axle. Cassettes are typically flush with the face of the gears, and you can see the splines, appearing as the rays of the sun around the perimeter. Freewheel axles may also show splines, but not as many as a cassette, and are recessed into the body deeper, around the axle itself, not the gear like a cassette.

Not all Freehubs have this bulge, but whenever you see it, you can be sure that it is, in fact, a cassette Freehub.

Buying and Changing Sprockets

Attention should be paid to this when buying and changing sprockets, so that the right ones are used. Freewheel is screwed onto the rear hub, while cassette is just slid onto the hub splines, held in place with a special lockring. The very end of the (rear) hub differs for each type, so it is easy to identify the standard, even before removing sprockets.

Useful Info

Recent Posts

Connect with Us