Search Results for: bike fit

How Mobility Impacts Your Bike Fit

October 11, 2022 by Guest Post

Often when we are experiencing discomfort on the bike the first solution is to consider changing your bike fit. While a poorly set up bike can be the cause of many issues, so too can limited mobility, especially if that mobility wasn’t considered in the initial set up of the bike or there has been a recent decrease in mobility from either injury or lifestyle changes. Limited mobility is one of the leading causes of discomfort on the bike and presents some of the greatest barriers to both being more comfortable and being in a more efficient position.

Every aspect of your mobility has a corresponding impact on your bike fit to varying degrees. To help understand how mobility correlates to each element of the fit we are going to break our analysis down to two main categories:

Upper Body – everything above the belly button, but specifically your upper back, neck, and shoulders.
Lower Body – everything below your belly button, specifically the spinal erectors, glutes, hip flexors, and hamstrings.

These two areas are key in determining how much leg extension and flexion your body can comfortably handle – essentially how high your saddle can be – as well as how long and low your handlebars can be in relation to your saddle. The range of saddle and handlebar positions that your body can comfortably and efficiently accommodate is referred to as your fit window, knowing your fit window helps provide a set of helpful boundaries for your bike fit.

What is a Fit Window and how do you determine yours?

At MyVeloFit, our philosophy is that every rider has a fit window, this means that instead of one position which is dialed to the millimeter, every fit parameter (e.g. saddle height, handlebar reach, etc) has a range in which that touch point can be adjusted and the fit will still work well for that rider. The fit window is the total amount of adjustment you can make and still be in a good or acceptable position. For instance a rider could have a saddle height of 685mm to 695mm and still be in the range of their saddle height window. If the rider has been sitting a lot and not working on mobility they’d err on the lower end of the range, whereas if they have been riding a lot and doing mobility work then they could go to the higher end of the range. Depending on the rider these ranges can be smaller or larger. Smaller riders or those with less mobility will typically have a smaller range, while taller riders or those with more mobility will have a larger range.

It is difficult to determine your fit window on your own. The best way to determine your window is with a professional bike fit or an app like MyVeloFit. At MyVeloFit we use AI to analyze your mobility and your position on the bike then we make recommendations to get you into your fit window. Once in that window you can use the joint angle ranges (see the color coded bars below) to explore your position within these windows. Joint angles don’t tell the entire story of the fit window though, as quality of movement is also important. If you are bouncing, or rocking, or experience significant discomfort you are likely outside of your fit window.

Lower Body Impacts

Lower Body and the Saddle:

Lower body mobility can have a number of impacts on how we set the saddle position within the fit window. Having tight hamstrings will usually mean we need to run lower in the fit window, while having good hamstring mobility will mean we can run higher.

Tight hip flexors can result in anterior pelvic tilt which can make many saddles uncomfortable because it pulls the front of the pelvis down towards the nose of the saddle resulting in less pressure on the sit bones and more on soft tissue. Having excessive anterior pelvic tilt may mean you need to select a saddle designed around more pressure on the front of the saddle. Modern short-nosed saddles such as the Pro Stealth, Bontrager Aeolus, or Specialized Power have been designed with this in mind. It may also help to run the saddle slightly further forward but still within your fit window.

Lower Body and the Handlebars

Having tight hamstrings, glutes, or low back muscles can make it difficult to comfortably reach the handlebars while pedaling efficiently so your handlebars might need to be higher and/or closer within the fit window.

Tight hips can also cause issues requiring a higher or closer handlebar position due to “bunching” or pinching in the front of the hip. This is especially true as we move to more aggressive front end setups like those seen in road racing or Time Trial/Triathlon.

Upper Body Impacts

Upper Body and the Saddle

Unlike the lower body which can have some significant impact on the handlebar position of the bike, the upper body has limited influence on saddle position. The standout consideration is that a very tight mid or upper back can lead to an atypical seating position on the saddle. This results from accommodating poor upper body functionality. A more forward saddle position within your fit window can sometimes help to relieve these issues, but a more comprehensive analysis of the rider’s position is typically warranted.

Upper Body and the Handlebars

Handlebar reach and drop are the measurements that are most affected by limited upper body mobility. Shoulder mobility typically will affect handlebar reach while neck and back issues will typically affect handlebar drop.

Tight shoulders, typical of those with injuries or who spend long hours at the computer, will typically require a shorter reach, whereas those with good shoulder mobility can go longer within their fit window.

Back and neck injuries or tightness will generally require a more upright position while more mobility will allow a rider to get lower in their fit window.

Key Takeaways:

It is clear that mobility plays an important role in your position on the bike, so remember the following things when you are setting up your bike:

Get a bike fit or use MyVeloFit to determine a good starting point
Be honest with yourself about your mobility and set the bike up to accommodate your individual mobility characteristics.
Be sure to add regular mobility work to prevent injuries and improve your ability to hold your position on the bike.
Most importantly let comfort be your guide. If a position isn’t relatively comfortable you likely won’t enjoy your bike as much as you should.

Jesse Jarjour is the co-founder of MyVeloFit, an app that uses AI to help improve your bike fit. Jesse’s love for bike fit started when he bought his first road bike and was sold a bike that was two sizes too big. He fell for cycling but was plagued by chronic injuries due to the poor positioning. Once he finally got a fit and set up the bike somewhat functionally, he was amazed by what changes could be made to improve his comfort and enjoyment of the sport. As Jesse’s affinity for cycling grew, he decided on a career change from economics to bikes. Recalling how much bike fit improved his cycling experience, Jesse devoted himself to learning everything he could about achieving the optimum fit. Fast forward almost 15 years later and Jesse now holds Level 2 certification from the International Bike Fit Institute as well as fit certifications from Retul and Trek. He has fit over 2,000 people of all backgrounds and is just as comfortable fitting a National Champion as a first timer.

Symptoms of Bad Bike Fit

September 8, 2020 by Sarah Lauzé

We talk a lot about the importance of a proper bike fit, but paying for a professional fit can seem daunting. It’s not exactly rocket science, but there are a lot of little adjustments that can make a huge difference. It’s hard to put a monetary value on being comfortable on a bike, but riding and being uncomfortable is only going to lead to riding less to not at all. Here are some symptoms of a bad bike fit, and how you can go about fixing them.

Bowed Knees

When pedalling, if your knees are pointing outwards, you may not feel any pain, but you look funny and you’re wasting energy. If your thighs feel the burn a little too much when your climbing, it could be a sign your saddle is too low. The solution? Raise your saddle height in small increments until your legs remain parallel to the frame through each revolution.

Aching Hands

If you’ve ever been twenty minutes into a ride only to have your hands start aching no matter how you position them on the bars, then you know how distracting it can be. Another symptom of a bad bike fit can be hand and wrist pain. If your saddle is too high (or tilted too far forward), your handlebars too low, or your either too cramped or too stretched it can result in putting too much of your weight through the front of the bike and onto your hands.

Neck Pain

Neck pain often goes hand in hand with cycling, especially for beginners, and the problem may not be entirely bike fit. Holding your head up to keep your eyes on the road for extended periods of time is tough, especially if you have a weak core. However, neck pain can also be inked to having a high seat post in relation to your bars.

When the seat post is too high it can place you in an aggressive position, which your body may not be ready for. It’s a better tactic to gradually increase the aero position as you get used to cycling. Additionally, if your road or aero bars are too far away causing you to overreach you can place unnecessary strain on these muscles. The solution would be to place the bars closer in relation to your body so you’re in a “tucked” position when riding.

Wobbly Hips and Lower Back Fatigue

Lower back pain is more often a result of a weak core, but if your hips are rocking side to side as you pedal your seat is too high, which can result in lower back fatigue. Lower the seat gradually, riding a flat circuit in between until you’ve found the perfect saddle height. When you do find it, be sure to mark it somehow so you can easily find it again.

Knee strain

Knee pain in the back or sides of the knee is likely a saddle that is too high, but could also be your cleat position. On your downstroke, your foot shouldn’t be pointed down. Instead, you should be pushing the pedal down through the heel.

Foot Numbness or Tingling

Foot numbness usually occurs when the nerves between the bones under the ball of the foot become compressed. The likely culprit here is shoe fit, cleat position or socks. Particularly if the cleat is too far forward it can cause numbness, as it places pressure on the ball of your foot.

Fit Your Bike From The Comfort Of Your Own Home

MyVeloFit is a revolutionary new app that combines the powers of computer vision and artificial intelligence to help you do your very own bike fitting at home in a matter of minutes. Whether you’re an individual or a business that specializes in bike fitting, they have a subscription model that works for you. Everything from free to a fraction of the cost of an in-person fitting! Check them out today to start feeling better on your rides!

How to Make the Wrong Size Bike Fit

January 3, 2016 by Adam Farabaugh

In the ideal world you always get the exact size bike for your size and fit it properly. Unfortunately that doesn’t always happen as maybe a friend had a bike that they were getting rid of or the bike you have a deal on isn’t quite the right size.

It depends on how far off the size of the bike is if you can make the wrong size bike fit. If you should be on a large, 58cm road bike or 20 inch mountain bike, fitting a small 52 cm road bike or 15 inch mountain bike just isn’t going to happen and vice versa. If the bike is relatively close however, there are a number of changes that you might be able to make to get the bike to more closely fit you. If you can’t get the bike to your ideal position, it is not recommended to ride more than just around town as an improperly fitted bike can cause injury specifically to your knees and back but other areas as well.

Where Doesn’t the Wrong Size Bike Fit?

To determine what adjustments need to be made to the bike, you first need to get on it and see where everything falls. Consulting the article “How to Do a Proper Bike Fit” will help to show you where you should properly be positioned on the bike. In general, you will know right away if a bike is too short in the top tube or with the saddle height. Depending upon where your differences are, you may have to do one or all of the following if your bike is either too big or too small.

Too Small of a Bike

A wrong size bike that is too small can be easy to make fit if it only requires small changes but past that you may need different parts such as a stems or seat post. It is typically easier to fit a smaller bike than too large because simply it is easier to lengthen something on the bike as shortening something past the limits of the frame simply isn’t possible.

Longer Seat Post

The first thing that you should adjust on the bike is the height of the saddle. Seat posts typically have a fairly long length so can be extended quite far. On all seat posts, at least if it hasn’t worn off, there is a maximum extension mark. Never position the post past this point as there is not enough post in the frame to adequately support the weight. If you do, the frame can actually bend and break quite easily. The solution to raising the seat further is to get a longer seat post which can be found relatively easily at your well stocked local bike shop or online. A 350mm length post is about as long as you can easily find. Just make sure you get the right size diameter post as most bikes have different sizes.

Increased Saddle Set-Back

Having too small of a bike places you too far forward on the bike. Sliding your saddle back can help solve this. The first way to do this is to loosen the bolts on the rails of the saddle and slide it back as needed. If you find you can’t slide it back far enough, you can get a seat post that has increased set-back. Standard typically ranges from 10mm to 20mm. You can find however 30+mm setbacks but you’ll have to shop around. And if you find a post with the right set back but the diameter is too small you can use pre-made shims to make it fit properly.

Longer Stem

The next area of the bike that is probably going to be an issue is how close the handle bars are to your body. The solution to this is a longer stem which will push the bars further out in front of you. Depending upon how long the stem is now, you can get a stem around 140mm to 150mm in length. The thing to watch out for here however is with an increased stem length, the handling of the bike decreases because of how far the bars are from the pivot point, the steerer tube.

Raising the Bars

The last thing that you will probably have to do on a slightly small bike is to raise the bars. You can do this in two ways. The first is to make sure that the stem is placed at the very top of the steerer tube with no spacers above it. The second is to get a stem with a high angle which will raise your bars. Zero to seven degrees or so is typically average but you can find stems with angles above fifteen degrees.

Too Large of a Bike

A wrong size bike that is too large can be a challenge simply because you can’t lower a saddle past the frame along with the handle bars. If the bike’s not too small however these few techniques will get the position to where you need it.

Shorter Seat Post

The limit on how low the seat post can go is where the bend on the top of the seat post is. If you find that when you try and lower the post all the way to this point and it hits something, it’s typically the post bottoming out on the water bottle cage bolts. A simple solution to this is to cut the seat post shorter. Only cut off however the minimum that you need as if you raise it and don’t leave a corresponding amount of post in the frame, you can break the frame.

Sliding the Saddle Forward

Sliding a saddle forward on the bike can bring you forward enough to potentially fit the bike better. You can loosen the saddle bolts and slide the seat forward as far as it will go in the rails. Past this you will have to get a seat post that has a forward bend to it or a post that is designed to be able to flip around and still place the saddle at the correct angle.

Shorter Stem

A shorter stem can bring the bars closer to you. 50mm is about the shortest stem you can get. With excessively short stems, as with excessively long stems, the handling of the bike can be affected. Short stems give a bike more of a twitchy feel as the same degree of bar rotation turns the front wheel a greater degree than would a longer stem.

Lowering the Bars.

On a bike that’s too big you can lower the bars a fair amount by making sure the stem is at the lowest point on the steerer tube without any spacers underneath. If your bars are already at this point, the next way to lower the bars is to get a stem with a high angle such as 15 or so degrees. There are no negative angles as a stem can be placed right side up and right side down depending on the need. Just make sure you get the right size stem for the diameter of your bars.

As long as the wrong size bike isn’t too far off in size, it is relatively easy to make a bike fit with the right approaches. You may need a few different parts but the price of those parts is probably going to be much less than what you would otherwise spend on a bike that you don’t have a good deal on. The bike will ride different than a properly fitted bike but you can get used to it. Just make sure that the position isn’t too far off as if it is, you are only setting yourself up for injury and whatever savings you may have simply aren’t worth it. Take your time and past these suggestions don’t do anything extreme to make a bike fit as in general it probably isn’t going to be worth it.

Bike Fitting Cost

December 7, 2015 by Adam Farabaugh

Getting a bike fit is an investment in yourself and your riding. It allows you to be in the optimal position on the bike for your anatomy as well as physique. How you value it though can depend, as raising the saddle a little and adjusting your bars ever so slightly might not seem like it should cost much. When you can’t ride because of an overuse injury and have to spend even more money on rehabilitation, that fit suddenly becomes much more worth it.

Valuing something is always dependent on how much you need it and what your opportunity costs are. Bike fits get placed in a category of “yeah it would be nice but is it really worth all that money?” Their value is always increased retrospectively when riders realize that they should have gotten a fit after all. They can vary in cost but getting it right is always worth it.

Levels of Bike Fits

There are varying levels of bike fits that depend upon the fitters experience and expertise level. Each level will go up in cost but also will have increasing value. Finding the right level of fit for your riding needs is key.

MyVeloFit: At Home Bike Fit

Local Shop

Your local bike shop is going to be your biggest fitting resource as they are likely to have the personnel who have been around bikes enough to know how to position someone on a bike. They can adjust, with a bit of margin for error in the general sense, the height of your saddle, how far back it should be, and the height and reach of your handlebars. Most shops will include this general fit with the purchase of a new bike. On its own they will charge around $50 for this service as it does take a bit of time and know how. This is your best option if you are looking to ride for fun and aren’t doing long rides or racing as this puts higher demands on, well everything.

General Coach/Fit Enthusiast

The next level of bike fitters are going to be the ones who can more accurately assess what a local shop can tell you as well as other areas of specificities such as knee and hip angles as well as where your foot should be positioned on the pedal. Typically they have been around cycling long enough and are in a position of trying to achieve optimal performance so they know the ideal positions to produce the most power as well as endurance.

Depending on experience level, they may be able to do some of the stuff a fit specialist can do so if you can find a good coach who knows what they’re doing they can be a great valued option. Typically when working with a coach or other similar individual they will give you a discount on their fitting services since you are already paying for coaching. If not they will typically charge $100 to $200 because they have enough experience to know the ins and outs but may be lacking some of the higher end tools.

Fitting Specialist

At this level of fitting on a bike the fitter either has decades of experience or has taken classes to know the ins and outs of body anatomy and how to find the correct position for each cyclist they fit. They are going to be able to do what a local shop and coach or fit enthusiast can do but to an even higher degree of accuracy. Furthermore, they are going to be able to asses you for flexibility and other potential discrepancies that can affect your pedal stroke. This includes correcting things like leg length discrepancies, knee tracking issues which can be corrected with shims under the cleat, and other specific issues that aren’t going to be properly corrected for with anyone without the proper know-how. A fitting specialist is going to cost roughly from $150 to $300 because of their expertise and larger tool kit that can get your position pretty well dialed on the bike. The range in price is going to depend largely on the fitters experience level.

Fit Guru

A bike fit guru is someone who not only has taken classes on becoming an expert bike fitter but also has years of experience dealing with all sorts of fit related issues. A solid fit guru can assess a rider and know where they are potentially having problems and how they will be placed on the bike before a pedal is turned. Once the rider is on the bike they can see intricate details to how and why something is doing what it’s doing, say a knee diving in toward the top tube. Fit gurus also will have one of the latest fit tools such as the Retul Fit System or Guru Dynamic Fit Unit which are high tech tools using computer software and exact measuring devices to measure your position on the bike as well as your bikes exact measurements. Furthermore, they will most likely have lasers that can project a straight line that can determine knee tracking as well as foot, knee, and hip alignment. This level of expertise does come at a price however typically starting at around $300 and ranging up toward $500.

Personal Value

The cost of a bike fit can seem expensive at any level but when you compare it to what you’re getting out of it as well as what you’re saving, you’re actually getting a lot.

Value of Comfort

It’s hard to put a monetary value on being comfortable on a bike but riding and being uncomfortable is only going to lead to riding less to not at all because it’s not enjoyable. A good fit will have you as comfortable as if you were walking down the street.

Correcting Injuries

This is where the real value in getting a proper fit comes in to play as if you can’t ride due to an overuse injury it is likely going to take a while to bounce back from. On top of not being able to ride, you could potentially need treatment such as physical therapy to revamp a bad tendon or other strained body part. Depending upon the injury, this can easily cost as much as a fit and on top of it you still need a fit to correct the misalignment in the first place. If you just get back on the bike after you have recovered you are just going to re-injure it.

Monetary Gains from Performance

This is an area that is more reserved for the racing cyclist who is at a high enough level to make prize money. Simply, a good fit is not only going to put you in the ideal position to pedal but also to be the fastest on the bike. This added power and efficiency can contribute to increased performance and thus results, which can have bigger payouts.

Additional Bike Fitting Costs

One additional note to costs in a bike fit to be aware of is the added costs on top of the original fit fee to make any changes on your bike. Things like a different length stem or cleat shims or wedges are going to cost more as the bike fit covers exactly that, the fit on the bike, not the additions needed for your bike. Typically a fitter has access to well-priced equipment that you can purchase to get your position dialed.

A bike fit is a costly investment whether using a local bike shop or a fit guru, but its benefits are going to be well worth it in the long run. Just make sure that when you get a fit you write down all of the exact measurements of your bike and that you keep them in a safe place so you can refer back to them in the future when needed. Bike fits are something you should do early in your riding days at the lower end of the scale and as your riding improves or if you have specific anatomic differences you should seek out a higher end bike fitter. They all will help improve your position on the bike to make your riding more comfortable and enjoyable.

Why You Should Get a Professional Bike Fit

December 4, 2015 by Adam Farabaugh

You should get a professional bike fit because you are already making the financial and time investments into cycling and riding without an accurate fit on the bike can negate those investments. Having an accurate fit on the bike ensures that you are not only comfortable but are also going to minimize the chances of having an overuse injury.

The last thing you want with something that you do for fun, or career even, is to not be able to ride because you didn’t take care of a minor adjustment that needed to be done on the bike. A professional bike fitter knows the ins and outs of everything related to fits whether it’s an anatomical irregularity or just a sore back or knee while riding. They can get you rolling faster and help prevent any overuse injuries.

Reasons for a Professional Bike Fit

The reasons are many for why you should get a professional bike fit and how you value each of them will depend on where you’re coming from. Find the reasons why you need a fit and then find an expert bike fitter.

Comfort on the Bike

The number one thing with riding a bike is that it has to be comfortable. Whether you’re just riding around town or racing full tilt, no one wants to be in a position on the bike that is uncomfortable. Even a small discomfort, such as a sore butt from the seat, is something that should be corrected because if it isn’t it can lead to other problems as your body will naturally try to correct for the irregularity. Even if it’s performance you’re after, being comfortable comes first as your performance is going to suffer if you can’t get into a comfortable position to achieve your maximum output on the bike.

Personal Anatomy Irregularities

If you have anatomical differences such as a leg length discrepancy (one leg is shorter than the other which is more common than you might think), inflexibility, or other not so normal things going on, getting a professional bike fit is about the only way that you can properly correct for those irregularities. There are a number of approaches and tools that can be used to assess these problems as well as correct them. If you don’t correct these issues or attempt to correct them without the proper knowhow, it can easily result in injury which can be harder to fix than a simple overuse injury.

Prior Injuries

Another big reason to get a professional bike fit is to accommodate past injuries. These injuries can range from knee pain to lower back issues. An expert bike fitter is going to be able to position you as to make sure that there is not any added stress on the problem area. You will be amazed by how much a professional bike fitter knows and how they can change things around to accommodate your specific issues. Also, just having a proper bike fit will help to insure that these injuries don’t come back and to give you piece of mind about it as well.

Maximizing Performance

Everyone rides for different reasons but the majority of us do like to go fast and see just what we can get out of our bodies whether racing for the town line with buddies or for a finish line in front of thousands. Having an optimal fit will ensure that you are generating the most power along with endurance. If your position is even just a little bit off in one area it can significantly impact your power output which can also result in injury because the tendons and muscles are placed under added stress.

Value of a Professional Bike Fit

The value of a professional bike fit is never the actual cost that you pay for it. It is what you get out of it; the comfort of the ride, the injuries avoided, the performance gains. These all are extremely important measures and in addition to these a fit will also save you time and money directly.

Saving Time and Money

If you don’t have a good fit on the bike sooner or later you are going to suffer an overuse injury. This is going to not only take away from time riding but will also take time to heal. Whether it be on your own with icing, stretching, and other remedies or with a visit to the doctor. If it is a particularly bad injury you could need further analysis and treatment including MRI’s and physical therapy which are far more expensive than a professional bike fit. Accounting for problems and issues before they occur is always the best way to approach any situation. Of course issues do arise but with a professional bike fit they are far less likely.

Getting a professional bike fit is well worth the investment. It will pay dividends in the short and long run as you will be comfortable on the bike as well as have a higher degree of power and endurance. You will also then have much less of a risk of developing any injuries which will keep you on the bike where you belong. Find a good professional bike fitter and make the most of their knowledge and expertise. When you do, you’ll wonder why you waited so long to get one.

At Home Bike Fit

Bike Fitting Tools – What They Are and How to Use Them

December 2, 2015 by Adam Farabaugh

A bike fit is a game of millimeters and half angles with the objective of lining everything up perfectly for your body to achieve its optimal position on the bike. These bike fitting tools will help you get those millimeters and half angles. There are a lot of approaches to getting the best bike fit, one being an expert looking at your fit and from their years of experience they can accurately say if something is off.

Unfortunately these individuals are harder and harder to come by and even if they are right our faith in them being right has diminished. Using accurate bike fitting tools is one way that the individual or less experienced bike fitter can get an accurate fit. These bike fitting tools can range from a simple tape measure to a fit specific bike costing thousands of dollars. As with any tool, knowing how to use it properly is where its real value lies. These few tools can give you an accurate set up in determining your perfect position on the bike.

Tape Measure

The first bike fit tool to have whether a professional bike fitter or do it yourselfer in the basement, is the tape measure. You can get by with any old tape measure but having a good one will help ensure accuracy and consistency. The best tape measure for bike fitting is a metric flexible cloth or plastic one that does not stretch whatsoever.

The flexibility is key as it is easy to work with and can be placed very accurately instead of having a big hook on the end of a conventional tape measure. Also, using metric is much easier to read, write down, and duplicate with less chance for error.

The big draw to a flexible tape measure is that you can easily take it wherever you go so if you need to rebuild your bike or even ride a different one, you can easily measure it to your exact specifications.

Find a tape measure.

Level

Part of having an accurate bike fit is starting with a bike that is positioned perfectly level. If your front wheel is slightly higher or lower than level, when you ride on the road everything is going to be tilted a little bit forward or back. If you have a short level, get a long, perfectly straight piece of wood or even a string to lie exactly across the skewers at the exact same point to make sure the bike is level.

A second great thing to measure with a level is your saddle tilt. It’s generally ideal to start with a perfectly level saddle and go from there based upon comfort. The trick here is that saddles are almost never perfectly flat so make your best guess on where you sit on the saddle and position it so it’s perfectly level.

A final area that a level can be helpful with is measuring saddle set back. Saddle set back is measured from the center of the bottom bracket. Getting an accurate straight line up to measure back from is key and is where having a level is ideal. If you don’t have a level for this however, lining up your bottom bracket with a door frame can be beneficial because the majority of the time they are constructed to be exactly vertical. Unless you live in an old house, then you might need that level to straighten your door frame.

Find a level.

Plumb Bob

A plumb bob is a simple contraption but is highly useful in creating an exactly vertical line. The key area that this is used in is seeing where the front of the knee falls relative to the spindle of the pedal. It can also be used in place of a level to determine saddle set back. Due to its simplicity, it is easy to make but high end ones have a pointy bottom to mark exactly where the center lies.

Find a plumb bob.

Goniometer

Probably the most well-known tool with bike fits is the goniometer (or g-meter or even angle finder) as it’s big and looks precise and professional. This tool measures angles to accurately position knee, hip, and ankle angles as well as other key areas.

What an experienced bike fitter has a knack for without any tools is the angle which is created particularly by the knee. There are exact measurements which your knee angle should fall between which can be found under the “Holmes Approach” in “How to Do a Proper Bike Fit”. The key to using a goniometer is to find the exact position of the joint and measure consistently from the same exact point every time an adjustment is made on the bike.

Find a goniometer.

Body Targets

An easy way to ensure that you’re measuring from the exact same point is to use markings placed on the joint so you can measure precisely from the same exact point. You can make your own or use pre-made ones which stick in place where you want them. The key here again is to make sure they are placed in the correct position on the joint not only to measure from the same point but to make sure your measurement is the same measure that you are comparing your angles to.

Find body targets.

Forefoot Measuring Device

Another cool angle measuring device measures the angle at which your foot naturally tilts. Everyone is different and feet almost never fall exactly flat. The average shoe and pedal system position the foot so it’s exactly level with some minor accounting for arch support with foot beds. A Foot Measuring Device is placed on the bottom of your foot while it is in its natural position and measures how much tilt it has. This can then be accounted for in your fit with cleat wedges which are wedges that raise one side or the other of your cleat to angle your foot to its natural position.

Find a foot measuring device.

Bike Fitting Tools

There are a lot of tools that can be used to achieve a perfect fit on the bike but having these few can give you the accuracy and consistency in determining your fit as well as replicating it on other bikes. With these bike fitting tools, be sure you know how to use them properly as without the proper know how they can create other issues which will then need to be corrected for.

How To Do a Proper Bike Fit

November 29, 2015 by Adam Farabaugh

How to do a proper bike fit addresses what you require to do a bike fit: a self assessment of your body, and outlines a step by step guide on how to get a perfect bike fit.

If you’re not riding too long nor hard you might be able to get away with a poor bike fit as your tendons and muscles can handle a certain amount of stress. The problem however resides when you start to ride longer and harder especially without increasing that intensity gradually.

Having a proper bike position will help to prevent injuries and improve performance. There is a lot to know to get your position dialed on your own, and we will briefly discuss some key factors so you do not have to spend hundreds of dollars on a professional fit. The professional fits however are worth it but aren’t always warranted by everyone so this is intended to touch on what a professional fitter would do despite the number of varying approaches to bike fitting. If you have questions or are uncertain on anything, seek out someone who knows as having a bad bike fit is just as bad as not having one at all.

What You Need

First you are going to need a few things more than your bike and shoes to do a quality fit on your own. You are going to need:

Stationary trainer – so you can get on and ride in place to see how all the incremental changes feel.
Tape Measure – ideally in centimeters as it’s easier to work with.
Plumb Bob – a string with a weight attached to the bottom to create a straight vertical line.
Level – can be helpful to make sure the bike is level in the stand as well as to measure saddle set-back. You can get by without one if you don’t have one however.

Self-Assessment

When going to a professional fitter the first thing that they are going to do before you even get on the bike is to ask you a few questions along with doing a few flexibility and discrepancy tests. This is difficult to do on your own but if you know of any muscle inflexibility or leg length discrepancies, you are going to have to correct for them.

For Example – If you know you have tight hamstrings, you are going to have to have a more relaxed (less aero) position on the bike.

Making the Adjustments

The adjustments you are going to make on the bike need to be in the order described here as when you move one thing, it results in changes to the other measurements.

Cleat Position

Cleat position is the first thing we are going to address as moving this later after you get your saddle height and set-back dialed will change. If you have already been riding your specific shoes and pedals, leave the cleats where they are if you haven’t had any issues.

If your cleats are new, you first need to estimate your natural foot position. Stand barefoot or in your socks on a hard surface naturally and see how your feet are positioned. Are they pointed straight ahead, pointed out, or pointed in? You want your foot position on the pedal to replicate this as if you just try and set it straight, it will go against how your muscles and tendons naturally align your foot.

After this you will want to put your cycling shoes on and determine where the bone on the outside of your foot protrudes. This bone is where your pinky toe connects to the rest of your foot, also known as the ball of your foot.

For a starting point, this is where you want the center of the pedal to fall. Mark on both shoes where this point is with something that comes off so you don’t mark up your shoes. Then position your cleat in the center of your shoe, from side to side, and line up the center as well with where the mark on the side of your shoe is. Then make sure the cleat is angled to account for your natural foot alignment. Yes, this is a lot of steps and when you start riding you may need to stop and adjust them a few times to get it positioned perfectly.

Saddle Height

A bike fit encompasses the details of many areas of the bike but the one that is the most influential is the saddle height. Finding the proper saddle height has a number of varying approaches to get just right. A few of the approaches will be touched on, but the best approach is a combination of them in a certain order to get an exact height.

To get the same measurements you need to make sure that you are measuring from consistent points. This can be difficult on a saddle because they are always different and almost never completely flat. A good way to measure from the same point is measure 155mm back from the tip of the saddle (the nose) and make a mark. This is generally where the center of your pelvis will sit on the saddle. Any measurements that you make, make to this point except for when measuring the 109% and LeMond Approaches described below.

Heel Approach

The heel approach is the easiest and probably most widely used to get a rough estimate on saddle height. On the bike with your cycling shoes on, spin your pedals backwards with your right heel on the base of the pedal making sure that you keep your hips level and that they don’t rock from side to side. With your leg straight, you want your heel to be about a half to one centimeter from touching the pedal. No more, no less. You will probably have to get off and adjust your seat post a couple times.

109% Approach

The 109% approach takes the measurement of your inseam and multiplies it by 1.09. This is then the length from your saddle to the spindle of your pedal at the bottom of your pedal stroke. To get your exact inseam length, get a large hard cover book and a pencil. Stand with your back against a wall in your bare feet or socks with your legs straight. Place the binding side snuggly up between your legs and make sure it is level. With the book positioned close to the wall, level, and at the upper-most part of your crotch, place a light mark on the wall at the top of the book. Now with your tape measure, measure from the mark to the floor. This is your inseam.

Now doing some quick math in your head, alright probably with a calculator, multiply it by 1.09. With the pedal at slightly before the 6 o’clock position, (you want it to make a straight line with the seat tube coming down) measure from the spindle up the length of the seat tube and seat post to the top of your saddle. Now depending upon your frame geometry and current saddle set-up, this length is not going to be to the point you previously marked on the saddle. That’s ok; that mark is so you can get an exact measure of your set-up regardless of what bike or saddle you ride.

LeMond Approach

The LeMond method is a derivation of the 109% approach in that it uses the same inseam measure except is just multiplied by a different number and to a different point on the bike. This approach is better than the 109% approach as it’s easier to measure to a stationary point, the center of the bottom bracket. The variable here is going to be crank-arm length. It depends on riding style but typically shorter riders want crank lengths around 170mm or less. Medium sized riders, 5’6 or so to 6’-ish, 172.5mm and 175mm, heights above that. This is a very rough estimate so determine your riding style and what will work best for you.

Back to the inseam. Take your inseam measurement and multiply it by .883. This is the length from the center of your bottom bracket to the top of your saddle along your seat tube. Again, like above, the mark you put on your saddle won’t be used for this but is rather just a good way to get consistent measurements for your position when set.

Holmes Approach

Now that you got your saddle height to a pretty good height with the heel method and backed it up or adjusted it with the LeMond approach, you should have a height that is pretty close to where it should be. The goal of the above approaches is to get your knee angle within a certain degree. Instead of measuring other variables, why not just measure the exact variable that you are trying to get dialed in. Well because it’s more difficult. You need a goniometer which measures angles but with some improvisation you can probably come up with something similar on your own. The difficulty then becomes measuring your knee angle precisely. Getting someone to help you will be a big help.

With your foot at the bottom of the pedal stroke, slightly in front of 6 o’clock on your right leg, you want to measure the back angle that the femur (thigh bone) creates with the tibia (shin bone). The back angle isn’t the angle of your bent knee but rather the angle from if you would continue a straight line from your femur and measure the angle down to your tibia. You want an angle between 25 and 35 degrees and falling closer to 25 than 35 if possible.

If you don’t have someone who can help you, and even if you do, another way to do this is to record a video from the side of yourself pedaling and pausing the footage when your leg is at the bottom of the pedal stroke and measuring the angle with a protractor or other improvised device. Whether measuring the actual angle on your body or on a screen, make sure you are lining up with the bones precisely. Use the hip and ankle as reference points.

Seat Set-back

Now that you have your saddle height figured out, you may have to alter it a bit but that’s OK since you know how to measure it back to the proper height.

Moving the saddle back is going to effectively raise your saddle while moving it forward is going to do the opposite. The degree to which your saddle is positioned behind your bottom bracket is going to depend on the type of riding that you are doing. A position that is further forward, such as that for triathlon or time trials, will rotate your hips forward on the saddle while a mountain bike and largely road position will be further back with less forward rotation. Generally in the middle is ideal to start off with.

A good starting point is to set the nose of the saddle 6 to 8cm behind the bottom bracket. If you have a level this is where it can come in handy, otherwise take your plumb bob and position it so it falls at the center of the bottom bracket. Now measure from the tip of the saddle to this point directly above the center of the bottom bracket; it should be around 6 to 8cm.

Now that you have a ball park estimate, get on the bike and clip in. Having someone help you in this next part can be beneficial but is doable on your own as well. Stop your right leg at the 3 o’clock position with the crank arm level. Now position the string of the plumb bob not on your knee cap but rather the little boney bulge just below and in front of it. Now see where the plumb bob falls relative to the spindle of the pedal.

Ideally in a neutral position, you want it to line up directly with the spindle of the pedal. If it falls more than a centimeter in front of the spindle, you need to move your saddle back roughly that same amount and vice versa. This position in the center is a neutral position that you can change depending upon the type of riding that you are doing.

Going Back to Saddle Height

Now that you have the set-back correct you are going to have to go back to whichever method you used to find your saddle height as depending on how far you moved your saddle, your height is going to be off. As stated above, if you moved your saddle back you are going to have to lower your saddle a little and vice versa.

Once you get this properly adjusted again, double check where the plumb bob falls again and make adjustments as needed. Every time you move one thing it is going to impact the others so you need to check and make sure it didn’t throw the others too far off. Bike fits aren’t one and done but rather a good amount of try and try again and before long you will have it where you want it.

Handlebar Set-Up

The core of a bike fit is your seat position relative to your bottom bracket but where your upper body falls can have a big impact on comfort as well as overall performance.

The first thing is to determine your flexibility and what type of riding you are doing. If you have tight hamstrings as well as back muscles you simply aren’t going to be able to ride with super low handle bars. The handlebar set-up determines how far stretched out, or scrunched up you are on the bike. You want to be in a natural neutral position with not too much of either.

A good gauge is with your hands on the hoods, or whichever position you will be riding in the most, look down at the axle of the front wheel. Where does it fall relative to the handle bars? If the handlebars are behind the axle you are probably too scrunched up. If the handlebars are in front of the axle you are probably too stretched out. Leeway of a centimeter or two in either direction is OK but past that you will need a different size stem. If it’s too much in either direction you are probably on the wrong size bike and may need a different frame size to get to that ideal position.

Raising or lowering the bars is going to depend on how much room you have on either side of your stem on the steerer tube. You can take spacers from below the stem and put them on top to lower your bars or vice versa. Be sure you properly tighten the head-set and stem bolts when you put it back together.

Adjusting to Your New Bike Fit

Now you’re all set. Your cleats, saddle height, saddle set-back, and handle bars are in an ideal position to ride comfortably with less chance of injury. Since your original bike fit probably wasn’t exactly what it is now you need to make sure you ease into riding in this position as your muscles and tendons won’t be used to it.

Depending on how far off your previous position was, you should ride for no more than an hour the first few days. Remember to increase intensity gradually and address any pains immediately. Riding at a lower volume and intensity will give your body time to adjust and get used to the position. If you feel something is off, stop and make adjustments as needed while on a ride. Only make small adjustments of about a millimeter or less each time.

As you can now see, there is a lot that goes into a proper bike fit and this doesn’t even include everything. You can go to the n-th degree when doing a bike fit, measuring angles and determining optimal power in varying positions among other things. This guide is intended to give you a basic idea of how to get your position as close to your ideal position without having to get an expert fit.

A professional fit is always advisable however as depending on your body and specific conditions, an expert is going to be able to make adjustments to correct for things that you may not even know are an issue for you. You can do it on your own, just make sure you pay attention to detail and are smart about the changes you are making. The above will get you close to where you should be and should help prevent overuse injuries as well as help you to ride faster and longer, after you ease into your new position.

At Home Bike Fit

How To Do a Basic Bike Fit

December 30, 2013 by Lee Agur

How To Do a Basic Bike Fit

Here is a quick video on how to do a basic bike fit.

What Is a Touring Bike Good For? 5 Benefits We Know You’ll Love

September 6, 2023 by Eric Lister

Deciding what kind of bike to invest in can be a tricky decision. Many get caught up in the bells and whistles of each year’s road and mountain models, as they are often the ones most prominently on display. But if adventure is your style, commute your objective, practicality your goal, and/or exploration your passion – you may want to consider getting a touring bike, instead.

(Credit: Adobe Stock)

What Is a Touring Bike?

Touring bikes are a specialized type of bicycle designed for long-distance travel and carrying heavy loads, making them ideal for extended journeys and bike touring adventures. These bikes are known for their durability, comfort, and load-carrying capacity. Several components set them apart when it comes to design and material when compared to other bike styles.

Design

Touring bikes have a unique design that has been engineered for comfort, durability, and function. Multiple mounting points allow riders to attach accessories like racks, mudguards, and panniers to make sure their rig is equipped for anything a trip might throw at them. That could be hauling home groceries from the store or bringing your gear along for a multi-day trip.

Wider tires help to accommodate varying terrain types, from paved to gravel and anything in between. This feature is commonly complimented by a bulkier braking system that can easily control the extra weight on the bike and its momentum, which can be harder for a lighter setup to slow down.

All of this is accentuated by a more upright and comfortable riding posture that reduces fatigue on the lower back and neck. Spending hours on a bicycle can be uncomfortable to say the least, but touring bikes generally keep the journey in mind, and sacrifice things like frame weight and wind resistance to prioritize comfort.

Design Highlights

Wide tires
Multiple mounting points
Powerful brakes
Durable Frame
Upright riding position

Material

The material with which touring bikes are constructed is typically a metal such as steel or aluminum alloy. This provides the benefit of being both durable and easily repairable. Especially when traveling long distances, you have to be prepared for hiccups and breakdowns with your equipment. The touring bike keeps this in mind, and is designed to take a beating.

A skilled welding or machine shop can often help repair your frame in the event that it starts to wear. We all know that cycling can result in falls and accidents, too, and less durable frames can be easily contorted by such events. Appreciation for the touring bike’s easily workable and widely available materials becomes noticeable when times get tough and resources are limited.

It should also be known that higher-end touring bikes are also available. These models are often constructed out of titanium, which is an exceptionally strong, lightweight, and rust-resistant metal. They’re a top choice for quality and longevity, but you will pay a higher price up front, with less repair options available down the road.

Material Highlights

Typically steel or aluminum alloy for weather/rust resistance and durability
Widely available and universal materials
Economical, low-cost
Easily repairable
Premium titanium options are also available on the market

(Credit: Adobe Stock)

Top 5 Benefits of the Touring Bike

Now that we’ve given you a more global view of touring bikes in general, let’s nail down the top five benefits of having one of these rigs in your inventory.

1. Versatility

The ability of these bikes to ride on different types of terrain means your options are endless when it comes to travel. Whether you’re staying on main roads or taking detours through mountain trails, these bikes are up for the task. It’s ready to take you where your competition road bike can’t, at speeds that your mountain bike wouldn’t be able to compete with.

2. Comfortable Riding Position

Prolonged riding on the bike can wreak havoc on your hip flexors, neck, lower back, and knees. The touring bike has a less aggressive geometry, however, which allows for a more upright and comfortable riding posture. It’s designed with not hours, but days of riding in mind – giving up some speed to help prioritize comfort and minimize fatigue on your body.

3. Load-Carrying Capabilities

Carrying your gear has never been easier. With multiple mounting points for your rack, pannier, mudguards and more, there’s a place for everything from your tent and repair equipment to your food and clothing essentials. The longer wheelbase typically found on touring bikes helps evenly distribute the load while at the same time leaving enough room for an efficient pedal stroke.

4. Durable & Easily Fixable Materials

Commonly constructed of steel or aluminum alloy, touring bikes have strong, durable frames that can withstand the test of time. Designed to endure thousands of miles through varying terrain and inclement weather, you’re sure to be in good hands while out there on the road. Best of all, they’re easily fixable, and your local welder can likely help fix any major damage that occurs.

5. See the World on Two Wheels

(Credit: Adobe Stock)

By far the biggest benefits of these bikes is what it allows you to do; see the world at ground level, powered by your own body, outside in the air immersed in every single second of it. A touring bike is a cheap ticket to the rest of the world – it just might take you a bit longer to get there!

Prepare Your Body for Adventure

Looking to increase your strength, flexibility, and injury resistance as a cyclist? Join a community of thousands of bikers worldwide and train for pain-free riding with us at Dynamic Cyclist. We have a huge library of professionally designed, follow-along routines to get you started. Try us 7-days FREE by clicking here!

Bike Saddle Fitting

December 5, 2015 by Adam Farabaugh

When you ride the majority of your weight is placed on the saddle. Having a good saddle fit will help to ensure that you’re comfortable on the bike as well as not doing long term damage to sensitive areas. There are many different variables when it comes to bike saddles and accounting for each one of them is key.

Saddles for Road Riding and Mountain Biking

The way you fit a saddle is different depending on your riding discipline. Fitting for a time trial or triathlon saddle is different than road and mountain but the latter two are similar. Mountain bike saddles typically have a bit more padding to help absorb the bumps as well as have a thicker, more durable cover to help prevent the more frequent crashes from ruining the saddle. These guidelines are road and mountain bike specific.

Width for Bike Saddles

The first thing to consider when fitting a bike saddle is sit bone width. This is where the majority of your weight should be placed on the saddle as this area is surrounded by muscles and tendons that can handle and adapt to the stress. The area in-between your sit bones are sensitive and if sat on for too long with too much pressure can not only be uncomfortable but can also cause longer term damage.

Measuring Your Sit bones

There are a number of ways to determine sit bone width. The easiest is to use an Assometer which can be found at many bike shops. This contraption is malleable and holds the shape that is pressed into it. With this, simply sit on it and measure the distance from the exact center of the two deepest points where the sit bones lie. If you don’t have access to one of these you can sit on a piece of paper or cardboard and feel with your hand where your sit bones lie. Then with a pen, mark on the paper the exact center of each. Then simply measure the distance between the two marks in centimeters.

Choosing Saddle Width

Now that you have the exact width of your sit bones, you can determine what size saddle you need. Take the distance you just measured and add two centimeters. This is approximately what size saddle you need as you want at least one centimeter past the sit bone on each side. Don’t go any smaller but you can get away with a little larger. The limiter here is as saddles get wider, which are normally classified as narrow, medium-width, and wide, the nose of the saddle also widens which can start to rub on the inside of your quads causing discomfort.

If the saddle you have doesn’t have its width marked on it you can simply measure the width of the saddle at its widest point in centemeters.

Shape of Bike Saddles

There are two general shapes of regular saddles when viewed from above. They are T-shaped and pear-shaped. T-shaped saddles can be better if you have problems with chaffing and your quads rubbing on the nose of the saddle. A pear-shaped saddle can be good if you find you move around a lot from forward to back as when you slide forward, there will be more evenly dispersed support to aid in comfort.

Flat-ness of Bike Saddles

A second shape to the saddle to consider is how flat or not flat its surface is. When viewed from the back, how much curvature does the saddle have? The more curvature equals more pressure on the central areas between your sit bones which can be uncomfortable and should be avoided. You also don’t want the saddle too flat as with it slightly curved it keeps you centered on the saddle instead of sliding left to right.

Center Cut-out of Bike Saddles

The center cut-out on bike saddles is designed to take even more pressure off sensitive center areas. This is largely personal preference as some people find the cut-out to be the only way they can comfortably sit on a saddle while others find that it can cause increased pressure as well as pinch certain parts.

A test to see if you might benefit from a center cut-out is to sit on a hard wooden chair or bench and lean forward without arching your back to where you can rest your elbows on your knees. Sit like this for a few minutes and if you find that there is adverse pressure and discomfort on the soft tissue being pressured then you will most likely benefit from a cut-out in your saddle. This is particularly true for women but men can also benefit.

Firmness of Bike Saddles

The final indicator of saddle preference is how hard or soft it is. A lot of people think that a softer saddle with more padding will be more comfortable but in fact it puts more pressure on sensitive areas and not enough weight on areas that can handle it. It makes the pressure on your rump more even across the saddle and different areas can handle different amounts of pressure.

The general ideal firmness is in the medium to lower end range as this places enough weight on your sit bone areas while still being padded enough to give some comfort. Some people find that going all the way to no padding is the most comfortable as this puts the pressure exactly where you want it. For some, this is a bit too much so you need to find your personal preference.

Getting Comfortable with Your Bike Saddle Fitting

After you’ve chosen your perfect saddle you are going to need to test it. The best way is to do an hour or two of riding on it but nothing major as if it’s uncomfortable you don’t want to be half-way through a long ride and be stuck riding home out of the saddle as much as you can. Your rump may be a bit sore at first and for the first ride so you may need to give it some time. This is particularly true if you haven’t been riding much recently. As you ride, the muscles and tendons adapt to the pressure that is placed on them so when these pressure locations change, it will take some time to get used to.

It is extremely important to find a saddle that not only fits your contour but is also comfortable. Your saddle is the most important comfort piece on the bike as it holds the majority of your weight. Even with the right size saddle, flat-ness, firmness, and cut-out preference, you may have to try a few different saddles before you find one that’s comfortable. The little attentions to detail will save you a lot over the life-time of the saddle. And when you find one that works, stick with it. No need to change what works.